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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. |
Usually on socket 1155 motherboard reviews, pretty much every board overclocks within 100-200 MHz of each other at similar voltage. That's what you get with IVB power consumption and temperatures being more of a limiting factor...
It's mostly about "missing" UEFI (BIOS) options for overclocking, better quality to withstand some hardcore 24/7 use, or some such. Perceived differences in terms of reaching overclocks on more conventional cooling, seem to be mostly down to CPU sample variance and not the boards, unless you're clearly getting some HTPC-oriented or lowest-end Z75/Z77 motherboard with low-grade VRMs and no heatsinks.
I think few actual users test multiple motherboards with the same CPU chip, for moderate overclocks. Usually there's no need to upgrade motherboards and retain the same socket.
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United Kingdom20321 Posts
I wrote a ton of stuff about delidding, if/when/why you would be heat limited etcetc.. but deleted it because i guess i dont really have a point with it and i dont want to post 5 random paragraphs for no reason
If you buy the cheapest board on the market that does not have manual voltage control and try to overclock, you're gonna have a bad time (:
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Just in case you think it's actually $60, it's not. It might be say $60 after $50 off from some Microcenter bundle deal.
There exists AsRock Pro3 level, a non-Pro (below Pro3), MSI G41, various cheaper options by Intel, Biostar, ECS, etc., some of the really cramped and lower-end mITX.
As for manual voltage control, that's obviously more convenient, but regardless of what options are exposed to the user, if the board can output a certain range of voltages, it's not like CPU knows whether or not it was specified via manual or offset or whatever. (Sure, higher-end boards, particularly with more VRM phases, should have less ripple, maybe some load-line calibration features, better-quality parts, can get away with slightly lower average voltage for stability.)
Anywho, price-conscious builds are what they are. Of course you're going to cheap out here and there and pay the price. And have more money in pocket.
Does anybody actually notice 2-5% worse CPU performance in practice? Depends what you do, I guess.
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I went through the BIOS again, and there's a possibility to work with the board pretty much as if it would have the settings for fixed voltage. If all C state stuff and SpeedStep is disabled, it stays at the same voltage all the time. The offset voltage adds to that and behaves exactly as one would expect.
The only problem i see is, LLC is a bit broken. Went through all options for that, and it cannot keep the voltage at full load constant. It does stuff like dropping from 1.2 to 1.17, or the reverse, raising from 1.2 to 1.23, without an option that behaves perfect. I would guess that's not really that bad, as one could simply add the difference to the vcore, and something like only a single core working at high vcore cannot produce high temperature anyways.
Overall, it's actually fine if I'm looking at it objectively. At the moment, I'm pretty sure the PC could run at 4.4 GHz stable, and 4.5 GHz probably-not-so-stable. It only breaks at multipliers that would be basically too much for other reasons. I'd probably need to invest in a bigger cooler and one or two more case fans, which I wouldn't have done anyways. (and delidding is too scary)
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Hi again, i changed my build taking advices here.
so can anyone review my new build plz? im almost ready to buy it.
CPU: CPU Core i7-3770K 3.5 GHz (1155)
MB: MSI Intel Z77A-GD65 A/L/V (1155)
RAM: G.Skill DDR3 16GB (4x 4GB) 1600Mhz PC3-12800 RipjawsZ
HDD: Seagate 1TB Sata3 7200 rpm 64MB
SDD: Crucial® 256GB Sata3 2,5" M4 c/Kit ( CT256M4SSD2BAA )
GFX: Asus NVIDIA GeForce GTX680 2048MB GDDR5 DirectCU II
PSU: Sentey 1000w / 15cm 80Plus Gold Golden Steel Power ( Thiking about buying another GTX680 sooner or later )
COOLER: Hydro Series H100 Extreme Performance
CASE: Thermaltake Gabinete ATX Armor Revo Snow Edition s/F
So.. keeping in mind this pc is for Gaming/Editing/Streaming..
im open to opinions etc, about the big psu im thiking in buying another GTX sooner or later.
The MB, will it be ok to oc my i7 ?
i apreciate any advice  !
Bye !
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If you can find it and it's cheaper, the 650W version of Golden Steel Power (or similar wattage for Platinum Power) is already more than enough if you want to add a second GTX 680.
At comparable fan speeds, a high-end air cooler like Noctua NH-D14, Thermalright Silver Arrow, Phanteks PH-TC14PE should be a bit better than H100. That's a lot of weight to hang off of a motherboard, though (and a lot of bulk), but lots of people use them with no issue. There are closed-loop all-in-one water coolers better than H100, anyway.
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I'm looking for a wireless mouse to be used almost entirely for controlling a PC from a distance of 10+ feet for media purposes. I just want something with long battery life, preferably a charger, the ability to automatically turn itself off, and the ability for the cursor to stay steady on odd surfaces.
Other than that, I don't really care. Any suggestions?
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Have you considered some type of alternate pointing / navigation device, such as a wireless trackpad, trackball, or something other than a traditional mouse?
If you're talking about odd surfaces, maybe just ditch the surface to begin with, if it's going to be awkward. If you really want to mouse it up, then go ahead I guess.
Some of these mice have really long battery lives, like months or years with normal person usage, so I think many or most models would fit the description unless you're got a more stringent conception of "long battery life". If you're just doing the occasional control for media purposes, that doesn't sound like a lot of power consumption, so long as it sleeps itself reasonably quickly.
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Things like where I'm lounging in a recliner and want to swap some windows around then flop the thing back on the ground. I don't think a trackball/pad would be more navigable. By odd surfaces I just mean things like the curve of an armrest or the top of a blanket.
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Received my new build, now I'll install win7 for the first time. The hard drive is new, so do win7, like the old winXP, allows you to format/partition before install ? Or do I need to do that on my other computer before.
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konadora
Singapore66357 Posts
Hey guys, I'm helping out a friend who wants to build his own comp. Would appreciate any suggestions/recommendations as to what parts to use!
Budget: USD1000
Resolution: 1980 x 1080
Using for: Gaming, Photoshop, Video editing
Upgrade cycle: 3 years
When to build: This weekend
OC: Not necessary but good to have?
OS: Already have one
Liquid cooling: Yes
SSD: Yes
Second GPU: Nope
Where to buy parts: Locally in Singapore
please help out, will provide any info, thanks <3
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On March 01 2013 19:40 MrCon wrote:
Received my new build, now I'll install win7 for the first time. The hard drive is new, so do win7, like the old winXP, allows you to format/partition before install ? Or do I need to do that on my other computer before.
yes, the installation process hasn't changed much if at all in seven years
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Hello Everyone,
After careful consideration and response from you guys, i have revised my build.
The build:
CPU – i5 3570k ($229)
Motherboard – Asus Maximus V Gene ($239)
GPU – AMD 7870 Asus dc2-2gd5-v2 ($269)
PSU – HX850 Gold + ($170) (only extra $30 from the hx650)
RAM – Corsair Dominator 8gb (2x4) ($75)
HDD/SDD – Samsung 840 250gb ($195)
WD Caviar Green 2tb ($99)
HSF – NH-D14 ($87)
Case – Fractal design R4 ($148)
CD/DVD - Will try to use old one
OS – Windows 7 or 8 (will need to test first and see what i like) (~100)
Total Cost: $~1600
Will be buying most parts from one place and try to get a discount from them.
I guess the main things im unsure about is whether i will need that motherboard and GPU or will i be able to save some money.
Other details:
Overclocking:
Still unsure how to OC but i guess this is a good time to learn.
Budget:
I would like to spend around $1,500 or lower. The money is not as important to me as the 'value' of the parts.
Lifetime:
I would like the computer to last around 5yrs
Useage:
I will be using the computer mainly for gaming (Dota 2, Starcraft 2, WoW, CS), watching movies and office programs.
Other Notes:
I will want to be able to game and play a movie at same time as i plan to hook up my tv to my computer and use that as a second screen. Would i need a second GPU?
Temperature:
In Australia, the temperature can rise up to 40 degrees and recently we had 30+ for 12 consecutive days. My room has poor air circulation and i will only be using a fan to keep myself cool. The computer will be mainly on the weekends for around 10+hours easy if i decide to stay home and game.
Thanks,
Alan
Original post on PG 1389
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Not sure what's the point of spending an extra $30 for a HX850 when a HX650 is more than overkill already.
Noctua NH-D14 does not have clearance for Corsair Dominators.
If you're unsure about overclocking than you definitely do not need such a high-end motherboard.
Most modern graphics cards in combination with a Z77 motherboard supports up to six or more displays. You can game on one display and do whatever on the other.
7870 is overkill for the ancient games you listed.
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United Kingdom20321 Posts
On March 01 2013 20:59 forkniRAGE wrote:
Hello Everyone,
After careful consideration and response from you guys, i have revised my build.
The build:
CPU – i5 3570k ($229)
Motherboard – Asus Maximus V Gene ($239)
GPU – AMD 7870 Asus dc2-2gd5-v2 ($269)
PSU – HX850 Gold + ($170) (only extra $30 from the hx650)
RAM – Corsair Dominator 8gb (2x4) ($75)
HDD/SDD – Samsung 840 250gb ($195)
WD Caviar Green 2tb ($99)
HSF – NH-D14 ($87)
Case – Fractal design R4 ($148)
CD/DVD - Will try to use old one
OS – Windows 7 or 8 (will need to test first and see what i like) (~100)
Total Cost: $~1600
Will be buying most parts from one place and try to get a discount from them.
I guess the main things im unsure about is whether i will need that motherboard and GPU or will i be able to save some money.
Other details:
Overclocking:
Still unsure how to OC but i guess this is a good time to learn.
Budget:
I would like to spend around $1,500 or lower. The money is not as important to me as the 'value' of the parts.
Lifetime:
I would like the computer to last around 5yrs
Useage:
I will be using the computer mainly for gaming (Dota 2, Starcraft 2, WoW, CS), watching movies and office programs.
Other Notes:
I will want to be able to game and play a movie at same time as i plan to hook up my tv to my computer and use that as a second screen. Would i need a second GPU?
Temperature:
In Australia, the temperature can rise up to 40 degrees and recently we had 30+ for 12 consecutive days. My room has poor air circulation and i will only be using a fan to keep myself cool. The computer will be mainly on the weekends for around 10+hours easy if i decide to stay home and game.
Thanks,
Alan
Original post on PG 1389
CPU – i5 3570k ($229)
Motherboard – Asus Maximus V Gene ($239)
GPU – AMD 7870 Asus dc2-2gd5-v2 ($269)
PSU – HX850 Gold + ($170) (only extra $30 from the hx650)
RAM – Corsair Dominator 8gb (2x4) ($75)
HDD/SDD – Samsung 840 250gb ($195)
WD Caviar Green 2tb ($99)
HSF – NH-D14 ($87)
Case – Fractal design R4 ($148)
CD/DVD - Will try to use old one
OS – Windows 7 or 8 (will need to test first and see what i like) (~100)
I wouldnt suggest that PSU, HDD or Case - you can probably save a bit on RAM too.
PSU, well, you say its only $30 extra from hx650, but its kinda wasted money. Your build would draw something like 350w overclocked. People often go with quality ~430w units for intel socket 1155 (quad core sandy/ivy bridge) single GPU builds, there's not much reason to go above 500-550.
HDD - I think the Green runs at 5400rpm and is just a lower performing drive in general - if you need 2tb storage and it is the cheapest option or you just flat out dont care about speed, its ok, but you should be aware that they are lower performing HDD's
Case
![[image loading]](http://images.anandtech.com/doci/6102/Small%20%281%20of%2014%29.jpg)
Id want something with 1-2 case fans on the front - at least one exhaust fan (back), preferably a one or two top fans too - and to also be sure of clearance for the NH-D14.
I will want to be able to game and play a movie at same time as i plan to hook up my tv to my computer and use that as a second screen. Would i need a second GPU?
No.
Ninja'd by SkyR, but i was about to mention the NH-D14 and RAM thing too.
You only need to freak out about thermals if you are overclocking, you could make like a 5-10c difference with a change of case and a couple fans no problem, its just tricky because in AUS you have ambient temps a lot higher than in many other places - when outside temps only rise above 20c in a couple days or a week or two a year in the summer often like where i live, you basically just have 20c more headroom 100% of the time - and you have the ability to drop room to like 5-10c in minutes if you want to push an overclock or experiment with settings - id love to see somebody try that in AUS hahaha
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Unless you have a 2560x1440/1600 or a 120hz monitor, It's a waste of money.
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On March 02 2013 03:00 iTzSnypah wrote:
Unless you have a 2560x1440/1600 or a 120hz monitor, It's a waste of money.
So if I'm planning to play at 1920 x 1080 on a 60 hz monitor it won't be worth the upgrade?
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On March 02 2013 03:06 zoLo wrote:Show nested quote +On March 02 2013 03:00 iTzSnypah wrote:
Unless you have a 2560x1440/1600 or a 120hz monitor, It's a waste of money. So if I'm planning to play at 1920 x 1080 on a 60 hz monitor it won't be worth the upgrade?
Well I don't know what you currently have so I can't really answer that.
Edit: I clicked your profile and saw you have a GTX 570.
Upgrading to a 7950 is not worth it. All spending 300 dollars will do is let you put the graphics options a notch higher.
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On March 02 2013 03:12 iTzSnypah wrote:Show nested quote +On March 02 2013 03:06 zoLo wrote:On March 02 2013 03:00 iTzSnypah wrote:
Unless you have a 2560x1440/1600 or a 120hz monitor, It's a waste of money. So if I'm planning to play at 1920 x 1080 on a 60 hz monitor it won't be worth the upgrade? Well I don't know what you currently have so I can't really answer that.
I have an i5 2500K, GTX 550 right now
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EPT
