EPTComputer Build Resource Thread - Page 1176
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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. | ||
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Puph
Canada635 Posts
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CaffeineFree-_-
United States712 Posts
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Linz
Belgium151 Posts
On July 21 2012 14:24 Medrea wrote: That being said, are you building now or in September? Because things change greatly month to month. Well, I'd need him end of September, so building it anytime from now until September. Edit: oh, and could you explain why exactly: On July 21 2012 14:24 Medrea wrote: Alienware is starting to become an in-joke in the PC community now. | ||
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Rachnar
France1526 Posts
and throw this psu in there and are you a student for the OS ? | ||
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Linz
Belgium151 Posts
Thanks a lot already! | ||
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Rachnar
France1526 Posts
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Linz
Belgium151 Posts
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Mackem
United Kingdom470 Posts
Using 1 DIMM and using them in different slots - Still won't work at 1600MHz Updating the BIOS Resetting all of the BIOS settings to default Clearing the RTC RAM by moving the jumper I just cannot fathom what is wrong when this exact RAM was running at 1600MHz a couple of weeks ago, I now get messages saying 'Overclocking failed!' and have to press F1 and set the RAM at 1333MHz so that my PC will actually boot. Basically, RAM worked fine at 1600MHz in old motherboard. Got exact same model as replacement, RAM only runs at 1333MHz in the blue slots and at 1066MHz in the black slots. I sent the motherboard back to the supplier because I had some bent USB header pins and stuff, so they got it repaired. Anyway, they tested my motherboard, CPU and RAM and they got it to run at 1600MHz with stock settings (So they say) but when I've gotten it back, I have the same issues as before; I had to put the DIMM modules into the blue slots on my Asus P8Z68-V/GEN3 (w/ latest BIOS) and I had to press the DRAM_LED to get it to boot. This then set the RAM to 1066MHz with a voltage of 1.55V and timings of 8-8-8-20 instead of 9-9-9-24. If I try to use X.M.P profile, won't boot. If I try to put set frequency, voltages and timings manually, won't boot. I am starting to think it could be a memory issue or something else silly (What else could it be?). Just for the record, my PC specs are: Corsair 400R Case Intel i5 2500K Processor CoolerMaster Hyper 212 EVO CPU Heatsink Asus P8Z68-V/GEN3 motherboard with latest BIOS Corsair 8GB Vengeance DDR3 RAM PNY GTX 560Ti 1GB Graphics card Antec Neo ECO 620W Power supply I'm just at the end of my tether and it's starting to get to the point where I have to constantly have the side panel off every day because when I shut the PC down and turn it back on the next day, the DRAM_LED is lit even though I didn't change/reset any settings in the BIOS relating to the RAM. Sorry for the massive post, but I would appreciate it if anyone could help. | ||
Womwomwom
5930 Posts
One of the pleasures of a DIY desktop is troubleshooting something as uncertain as this. Is it the RAM, the motherboard, CPU? Who the hell knows. It doesn't help that manufacturers can be fairly dishonest about RMA results. | ||
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Shauni
4077 Posts
Anyway can't you just get some new RAM and test with? Also I think it's better just running normal "low profile" stable sticks from like kingston or crucial. Corsairs current path of making 'gaming' RAM sticks is incredibly silly. | ||
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Mackem
United Kingdom470 Posts
On July 21 2012 20:57 Womwomwom wrote: It happens. RAM could end up being faulty amongst other reasons. My g.skill kit doesn't run at 1600mhz anymore and I have no idea why...fortunately it does work at 1333mhz so I guess lucky me? Keep in mind I have tried the same sort of troubleshooting as you have done, except on a LGA1156 Gigabyte motherboard. One of the pleasures of a DIY desktop is troubleshooting something as uncertain as this. Is it the RAM, the motherboard, CPU? Who the hell knows. It doesn't help that manufacturers can be fairly dishonest about RMA results. Yeah I mean my RAM is currently running at 1066MHz. There are no bent CPU pins on the CPU itself or on the socket, which leaves the motherboard and RAM. I don't have another set of RAM to test otherwise I'd be able to rule that out almost immediately. On July 21 2012 21:23 Shauni wrote: Could be that the CPU is faulty, it actually happened to me before, I had 4 identical sticks and 3 of them worked perfectly, the fourth one didn't. Usually you'd think the stick was faulty, but it wasn't. Computer wouldn't even boot with the stick, even if i had no other sticks in. Anyway can't you just get some new RAM and test with? Also I think it's better just running normal "low profile" stable sticks from like kingston or crucial. Corsairs current path of making 'gaming' RAM sticks is incredibly silly. Well. unless Scan.co.uk's RMA team are completely useless, I can rule out the CPU. They said there was no damage to the pins on the CPU itself nor on the LGA1155 socket. I don't have any other RAM to test with and all of my friends have DDR2 machines, meaning I'll either have to buy new RAM and test it or RMA this Corsair RAM and get them to send some more out. | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On July 21 2012 21:23 Shauni wrote: Could be that the CPU is faulty, it actually happened to me before, I had 4 identical sticks and 3 of them worked perfectly, the fourth one didn't. Usually you'd think the stick was faulty, but it wasn't. Computer wouldn't even boot with the stick, even if i had no other sticks in. Anyway can't you just get some new RAM and test with? Also I think it's better just running normal "low profile" stable sticks from like kingston or crucial. Corsairs current path of making 'gaming' RAM sticks is incredibly silly. Well, from a marketing standpoint, it's actually genius, no matter how frustrating it can be. | ||
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Womwomwom
5930 Posts
Gamers and "tech savvy" people are a fun market to deal with because they have a dangerous level of knowledge: they know a little bit (so what a CPU and PSU is) but not enough to make real sensible decisions. They also are extremely easily swayed and this is evident in how successful some ESPORTS endorsements are. I don't mean understanding the really deep shit like understanding how memory controllers work but I mean the raw basics like why you don't need 650W for a typical desktop and you don't need a billion fans to cool a single CPU system. | ||
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Mackem
United Kingdom470 Posts
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Womwomwom
5930 Posts
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Mackem
United Kingdom470 Posts
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Puph
Canada635 Posts
I believe I should be using fully cylindrical screws. They're quite l large. To secure my mother board Ii used standard dome-head screws. Any input on my choice of screw? sory for lack of pictures! | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
It may be worth just reseating everything. Memory controller is on the CPU die, after all. Also, quadruple-check that the 24-pin ATX connector is very firmly seated. 3.3V for the memory VRMs comes through there, and loose connectors cause some voltage droop. I'd tend not to blame the CPU in general, since those are hard to destroy. On July 22 2012 01:27 Puph wrote: Hey eveyrone quick question. I just built a rig and I'm worried I used to the wrong screws to secure the mother board to the stand offs! My case came with sssooo many screws T_T I believe I should be using fully cylindrical screws. They're quite l large. To secure my mother board Ii used standard dome-head screws. Any input on my choice of screw? sory for lack of pictures! If it is mechanically stable, then it should be okay. I can't really tell what you're trying to say though. | ||
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Mackem
United Kingdom470 Posts
On July 22 2012 02:21 Myrmidon wrote: JH, didn't you have some RAM issue (one channel went out?) that was caused by the CPU not being seated completely properly? CPU cooler got knocked around? It may be worth just reseating everything. Memory controller is on the CPU die, after all. Also, quadruple-check that the 24-pin ATX connector is very firmly seated. 3.3V for the memory VRMs comes through there, and loose connectors cause some voltage droop. I'd tend not to blame the CPU in general, since those are hard to destroy. If it is mechanically stable, then it should be okay. I can't really tell what you're trying to say though. I mean I tried a lot of stuff. I loosened the screws a bit from my Hyper 212 EVO as well as slightly loosening the screws from the motherboard standoffs but still no dice. | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
On July 22 2012 03:10 Mackem wrote: I mean I tried a lot of stuff. I loosened the screws a bit from my Hyper 212 EVO as well as slightly loosening the screws from the motherboard standoffs but still no dice. How would loosening the motherboard standoffs make a difference? Which screws on the Hyper 212 EVO? Are there ones that change the contact pressure? That still doesn't mean much with regards to what I said...not that I really think it's the CPU mounting. | ||
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