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On April 17 2012 13:06 hotcheetos wrote:+ Show Spoiler +I am building a gaming PC for the first time and would really appreciate some feedback from the more experienced builders here on the two builds I have listed below. I'm not sure if I should replace some of these parts or if they go well together with the other components...someone please help!
Intel Z77 Core i5/i7 Configurator
1 x Processor ( Intel® Core™ i7-2700K Processor (4x 3.50GHz/8MB L3 Cache) - Core i7-2700K w/ Intel Performance Tuning Protection )
1 x Processor Cooling ( Liquid CPU Cooling System [SOCKET-1155] - ARC Dual Silent High Performance Fan Upgrade (Push-Pull Airflow) )
1 x Memory ( 8 GB [4 GB X2] DDR3-1600 Memory Module - Corsair or Major Brand )
1 x Video Card ( NVIDIA GeForce GTX 580 - 1.5GB - Single Card )
1 x Motherboard ( [SLI] ASUS P8Z77-V LK -- 2x PCI-E 3.0 x16, 4x USB 3.0 )
1 x Power Supply ( 1000 Watt - Standard )
1 x Primary Hard Drive ( 1 TB HARD DRIVE -- 32M Cache, 7200 RPM, 6.0Gb/s - Single Drive )
Intel X79 Core i7 Configurator
1 x Processor ( Intel® Core™ i7 3820 Processor (4x 3.60GHz/10MB L3 Cache) - Core i7 3820 w/ Intel Performance Tuning Protection )
1 x Processor Cooling ( Liquid CPU Cooling System [SOCKET-2011] - ARC Dual Silent High Performance Fan Upgrade (Push-Pull Airflow) )
1 x Memory ( 8 GB [2 GB X4] DDR3-1600 Memory Module - Corsair or Major Brand )
1 x Video Card ( NVIDIA GeForce GTX 580 - 1.5GB - Single Card )
1 x Motherboard ( ASUS P9X79 -- 4x USB 3.0 )
1 x Power Supply ( 1000 Watt - Standard )
1 x Primary Hard Drive ( 1 TB HARD DRIVE -- 32M Cache, 7200 RPM, 6.0Gb/s - Single Drive )
Buying a prebuilt is not considered building a gaming PC.
Building on X79 platform with a 3820 for gaming is beyond stupid.
As for the first configuration,
A 1000w power supply is extreme overkill and unnecessary.
GTX 580 is old and not really desirable even at the $400 price point.
P8Z77-V LK is shit.
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7870 is better than a 580 and is up to $100 less and uses half the power. 1kW PSU is hilariously overkill.
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how much should i oc my 2600k to? i think 4 ghz should be more than enought right?
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4GHz is okay, I'd go higher depending on temps and what vcore is required for 4.5GHz and so on.
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On April 17 2012 11:58 skyR wrote:[ Show nested quote +On April 17 2012 10:27 cLutZ wrote:+ Show Spoiler +This is my first foray into PC building. Now, the thing is, I am very good at PC repairs (have even repaired broken fans and the like on laptops) so I'm not worthless, but I am deathly afraid of compatibility issues and plain out forgetting something.
What is your budget?
2k (flexible)
What is your resolution?
IDK I need a monitor pref 18-21" or so. But I find particularly large monitors to be more than they are worth.
What are you using it for?
The only taxing thing is likely to be gaming. Perhaps some coding and 3d graphing but usually that is not too memory intensive.
What is your upgrade cycle?
2-4 years
When do you plan on building it?
1-2 weeks.
Do you plan on overclocking?
Nay, this sounds too ambitious.
Do you need an Operating System?
Currently have an unused Windows 7 64 bit Ult
Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire?
?
Where are you buying your parts from?
I figured Newegg, perhaps there are other American sources to buy from, but I am no expert.
Thanks, super thanks. New processors are releasing next week so probably best to ask near the end of next week when you're closer to purchasing. You won't be spending anywhere near $2000 though if you don't need an operating system or intend to overclock or buying modern sized monitors.
Thanks/awesome.
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On April 17 2012 09:28 JingleHell wrote:Show nested quote +On April 17 2012 09:24 Kilos wrote:
Hey when I stream and play SC2 on ASUS Optimal with UEFI BIOS and I get a BSOD what does it mean? Too hot? I'm using 2500K and stock heatsink. If I buy a better heatsink will it still happen? My mobo is P8P67-M PRO. Well, you can stress test your CPU temps with Prime95 and hardwaremonitor. It's certainly a good place to start. What's the rest of your rig, PSU especially?
Err, I don't really know how to. ;o
But specs are:
i5 2500K
ASUS P8P67-M PRO
CM HAF 912
GTS 250
CORSAIR CX600 V2
G.SKILL RIPJAWS 8GB
STOCK INTEL HEATSINK
SEAGATE 500GB 7200RPM
I thinks that sums it, if I missing anything let me know. 
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check if your heatsink is properly secured. could be your cpu overheating
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On April 17 2012 14:27 Kilos wrote:Show nested quote +On April 17 2012 09:28 JingleHell wrote:On April 17 2012 09:24 Kilos wrote:
Hey when I stream and play SC2 on ASUS Optimal with UEFI BIOS and I get a BSOD what does it mean? Too hot? I'm using 2500K and stock heatsink. If I buy a better heatsink will it still happen? My mobo is P8P67-M PRO. Well, you can stress test your CPU temps with Prime95 and hardwaremonitor. It's certainly a good place to start. What's the rest of your rig, PSU especially? Err, I don't really know how to. ;o But specs are: i5 2500K ASUS P8P67-M PRO CM HAF 912 GTS 250 CORSAIR CX600 V2 G.SKILL RIPJAWS 8GB STOCK INTEL HEATSINK SEAGATE 500GB 7200RPM I thinks that sums it, if I missing anything let me know.
Download prime95 and hardware monitor, they're both free. Run hardware monitor, then run a prime95 blend test, 4 threads, and watch CPU temps. Your PSU is an ok model, so unless it's just a defective sample, it shouldn't be the issue.
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On April 17 2012 13:32 mTwTT1 wrote:
how much should i oc my 2600k to? i think 4 ghz should be more than enought right?
To be honest with SC2 AND streaming 1080p (presumably using some slower encoding algorithm than the XSplit Default, maybe "fast" or "medium"), I would try for a little more. If this is with the new build that skyR suggested, you did pay for good quality components (motherboard, cooling, etc) so there's no reason not to take advantage of it when it's safe to do so with moderate overclocking.
It should be easy enough to just disable turbo and turn up the CPU multiplier to maybe 42 and leave voltages on Auto (this is what many people do, myself included). Stress testing will hardly be necessary at such low OC's because the motherboard just reads the chip's VID and feeds it usually more than needed, though with auto VCore and other settings on auto, you probably won't be able to go much higher than maybe 44 to 46 multiplier, which is plenty. Higher OC'ing requires manual settings, but you probably won't ever need that (or want to go to voltages that high).
Just make sure you watch your VCore with a program such as HWMonitor. There has been tons of debate over what is "Safe" for Sandy Bridge long-term use. I don't want to go into the details but I would say just keep your chip under 1.35VCore and you should be completely safe for many years. If anyone here believes otherwise they should say so.
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As long as you keep it inside the Intel VID range, you should be fine.
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On April 18 2012 00:08 JingleHell wrote:
As long as you keep it inside the Intel VID range, you should be fine.
That's exactly the can of worms I was trying to keep closed >_< There have been so many arguments that it's safe to go to 1.52 because the VID range goes that high. Yeah, OK, people can believe whatever they want to believe and set their VCore that high. As for me, I've read not a small amount of posts about chips degrading after running at around 1.45 VCore or higher with significant loads (such as folding), and even if not, I'd be hard pressed to believe such a high voltage is safe long-term. Anyway, air cooling won't be able to keep temps down when it's that high.
But one can always get the OC insurance from Intel now for like $20 so if you fry your chip you get 1 free RMA.
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On April 18 2012 00:14 Wabbit wrote:Show nested quote +On April 18 2012 00:08 JingleHell wrote:
As long as you keep it inside the Intel VID range, you should be fine. That's exactly the can of worms I was trying to keep closed >_< There have been so many arguments that it's safe to go to 1.52 because the VID range goes that high. Yeah, OK, people can believe whatever they want to believe and set their VCore that high. As for me, I've read not a small amount of posts about chips degrading after running at around 1.45 VCore or higher with significant loads (such as folding), and even if not, I'd be hard pressed to believe such a high voltage is safe long-term. Anyway, air cooling won't be able to keep temps down when it's that high. But one can always get the OC insurance from Intel now for like $20 so if you fry your chip you get 1 free RMA.
Meh, I strongly encourage being smart about testing still, but if my shit dies inside VID, Intel doesn't need to know what clock it was running at.
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I brought the zalman z11 for 55 dollar and 10 off from rebate. Do you guys think this case is nice? I myself thought it look ulgly but it was cheap what do you guys think? I saw that there a lot of air vena nation holes for air flow is that good.
Also what the difference of z11 plus and non plus
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1 x Processor ( Intel® Core™ i5-2550K Processor (4x 3.40GHz/6MB L3 Cache) )
1 x Processor Cooling ( Liquid CPU Cooling System [SOCKET-1155] - ARC Dual Silent High Performance Fan Upgrade (Push-Pull Airflow) )
1 x Memory ( 8 GB [4 GB X2] DDR3-1600 Memory Module - Corsair or Major Brand )
1 x Video Card ( AMD Radeon HD 7870 - 2GB - Single Card )
1 x Motherboard ( [SLI] ASUS P8Z68-V Pro -- 3x PCI-E 2.0 x16, On-Board Bluetooth, Lucid Virtu Technology )
1 x Power Supply ( 700 Watt - Standard )
1 x Primary Hard Drive ( 120 GB Intel 520 SSD - Single Drive )
1 x Data Hard Drive ( 1 TB HARD DRIVE -- 32M Cache, 7200 RPM, 6.0Gb/s - Single Drive )
This build (including a tower) runs exactly $1,501 with the i5-2550K being a free upgrade on iBuyPower from the i5-2500k.
Ideally, I would like to lower the cost to $1,200 ~ 1,300 without sacrificing too much in performance (suggestions welcomed). Conversely, I could also be persuaded to spend another $100+ on upgrading the CPU/GPU (i7 2600k?) if it’ll be worth it.
Ultimately, I would be satisfied knowing that I'm spending my money on the best build to run the next two~ish years of new games at top/high settings.
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On April 18 2012 02:38 hotcheetos wrote:
1 x Processor ( Intel® Core™ i5-2550K Processor (4x 3.40GHz/6MB L3 Cache) )
1 x Processor Cooling ( Liquid CPU Cooling System [SOCKET-1155] - ARC Dual Silent High Performance Fan Upgrade (Push-Pull Airflow) )
1 x Memory ( 8 GB [4 GB X2] DDR3-1600 Memory Module - Corsair or Major Brand )
1 x Video Card ( AMD Radeon HD 7870 - 2GB - Single Card )
1 x Motherboard ( [SLI] ASUS P8Z68-V Pro -- 3x PCI-E 2.0 x16, On-Board Bluetooth, Lucid Virtu Technology )
1 x Power Supply ( 700 Watt - Standard )
1 x Primary Hard Drive ( 120 GB Intel 520 SSD - Single Drive )
1 x Data Hard Drive ( 1 TB HARD DRIVE -- 32M Cache, 7200 RPM, 6.0Gb/s - Single Drive )
This build (including a tower) runs exactly $1,501 with the i5-2550K being a free upgrade on iBuyPower from the i5-2500k.
Ideally, I would like to lower the cost to $1,200 ~ 1,300 without sacrificing too much in performance (suggestions welcomed). Conversely, I could also be persuaded to spend another $100+ on upgrading the CPU/GPU (i7 2600k?) if it’ll be worth it.
Ultimately, I would be satisfied knowing that I'm spending my money on the best build to run the next two~ish years of new games at top/high settings.
If you want to lower the cost without lowering performance, buy equivalent quality parts and assemble it yourself. Presto. Huge pile saved over their unoptimized build.
Cyberpower and ibuypower are NOT for saving money. They're for overspending on an un-optimized build, with the advantage of customization over retail prebuilts.
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On April 18 2012 02:38 hotcheetos wrote:+ Show Spoiler +1 x Processor ( Intel® Core™ i5-2550K Processor (4x 3.40GHz/6MB L3 Cache) )
1 x Processor Cooling ( Liquid CPU Cooling System [SOCKET-1155] - ARC Dual Silent High Performance Fan Upgrade (Push-Pull Airflow) )
1 x Memory ( 8 GB [4 GB X2] DDR3-1600 Memory Module - Corsair or Major Brand )
1 x Video Card ( AMD Radeon HD 7870 - 2GB - Single Card )
1 x Motherboard ( [SLI] ASUS P8Z68-V Pro -- 3x PCI-E 2.0 x16, On-Board Bluetooth, Lucid Virtu Technology )
1 x Power Supply ( 700 Watt - Standard )
1 x Primary Hard Drive ( 120 GB Intel 520 SSD - Single Drive )
1 x Data Hard Drive ( 1 TB HARD DRIVE -- 32M Cache, 7200 RPM, 6.0Gb/s - Single Drive )
This build (including a tower) runs exactly $1,501 with the i5-2550K being a free upgrade on iBuyPower from the i5-2500k.
Ideally, I would like to lower the cost to $1,200 ~ 1,300 without sacrificing too much in performance (suggestions welcomed). Conversely, I could also be persuaded to spend another $100+ on upgrading the CPU/GPU (i7 2600k?) if it’ll be worth it.
Ultimately, I would be satisfied knowing that I'm spending my money on the best build to run the next two~ish years of new games at top/high settings.
Getting a 2550k over a 2500k is actually a downgrade lolol.
Get a Asrock P67 Pro3 or a similar $100-$120 board, you just saved $100.
Get rid of no brand liquid cooling and get a Hyper 212+ or similar instead, you just saved $50 or more.
Get a Crucial M4 instead, ~$30 savings.
Get a 500w power supply instead, another ~$30 savings.
Build yourself, you just saved $300 or more.
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the i5 2550k is without quicksync and integrated graphics, 100mhz higher base clock though. I'm told that intel just released it to meet demands, since most gamers does not care about the IGP.
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And thats why it is stupid it costs MORE. Instead of less money. Fail marketing though I bet some people fall for it.
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On April 18 2012 05:40 Shauni wrote:
the i5 2550k is without quicksync and integrated graphics, 100mhz higher base clock though. I'm told that intel just released it to meet demands, since most gamers does not care about the IGP.
wouldnt the factory overclock be better if your planning on oc-ing it further? i thought there was something to do with warranties and them being more lenient with respect to returns due to overclocking on a card that had a slight factory OC versus doing it all once you buy it
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2550k is a CPU, not a GPU. Soooo, card?
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EPT
