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When using this resource, please read the opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. | ||
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Sunnyvale
14 Posts
http://www.microcenter.com/product/399204/G226HQL_Bbd_215_Widescreen_LED_Monitor http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-VS239H-P-23-Inch-Full-HD-Monitor/dp/B008DWITHI/ref=dp_ob_title_ce#customerReviews if anyone knows of any other monitors in that price range that may be better than either on of these let me know. Thanks in advance | ||
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Blazinghand
United States25559 Posts
On December 02 2014 05:52 Wala.Revolution wrote: My mother has just discovered "cyber monday" and asked me if I can get a laptop for her. If you guys know of any great deals I would appreciate it. She wouldn't do anything more demanding than streaming videos off of youtube. I picked this computer up for my non-tech-savvy dad for $180: www.amazon.com/Acer-C720-Chromebook-11-6-Inch-2GB/dp/B00FNPD1VW it's a pretty decent deal, but bear in mind that an 11.6" screen size is small. A Chromebook can do anything google chrome can do-- email, internet browsing, going on facebook, youtube, reddit, TL, etc. With Google Docs it can do pretty much all the word processing you'd need, as well as basic spreadsheets and presentations. It can't run Microsoft Office, or Turbotax or Quicken or anything like that. But it's great for 99% of the needs of an older person who just wants to connect to the web. I think there was a better deal on it earlier today-- some people reported seeing it for as low as $150-- but normally these things go for about $200 so $180 isn't a terrible deal. | ||
KwarK
United States43970 Posts
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Errol
Canada102 Posts
MB $59.99: ASUS H81M-E LGA 1150 Intel H81 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX OS $97.99: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM RAM $45.99: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 4GB 240-Pin DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Model F3-12800CL9S-4GBXL CPU/GPU $208.99: Intel Core i5-4570 Haswell Quad-Core 3.2GHz LGA 1150 84W, Intel HD Graphics BX80646I54570 HDD $49.99: Seagate Barracuda ST1000DM003 1TB 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive Bare Drive PSU $44.99: CORSAIR CX series CX430 430W ATX12V v2.3 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply CD/DVD: $59.99: ASUS Black 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM SATA Model BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS - OEM Case $39.99: Fractal Design Core 1000 FD-CA-CORE-1000-USB3-BL Black Steel MicroATX Mid Tower Computer Case Total: $607.92 (without monitor) CPU might be overkill? I'll probably get some cheap 20"-22" $100 monitor, at most I'd get something like Monitor $209.99: Dell P2314H P2314H Black 23" 8ms Widescreen LED Backlight LCD Monitor IPS 250 cd/m2 1,000:1 since I plan to use it in lieu of a TV, but that'd put me a fair bit over. | ||
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felisconcolori
United States6168 Posts
On December 02 2014 08:49 Errol wrote: Hey, I've been working on a build and I'm just wondering if I'm missing anything. What I'm looking for out of it is playing blu-ray in 1080p, running something like SC2 on low and lasting a while. oh right, and everything should work. Price range is about $500-700 including Monitor/Windows. Here's the build, Prices are in CAD: MB $59.99: ASUS H81M-E LGA 1150 Intel H81 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX OS $97.99: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM RAM $45.99: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 4GB 240-Pin DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Model F3-12800CL9S-4GBXL CPU/GPU $208.99: Intel Core i5-4570 Haswell Quad-Core 3.2GHz LGA 1150 84W, Intel HD Graphics BX80646I54570 HDD $49.99: Seagate Barracuda ST1000DM003 1TB 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive Bare Drive PSU $44.99: CORSAIR CX series CX430 430W ATX12V v2.3 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply CD/DVD: $59.99: ASUS Black 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM SATA Model BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS - OEM Case $39.99: Fractal Design Core 1000 FD-CA-CORE-1000-USB3-BL Black Steel MicroATX Mid Tower Computer Case Total: $607.92 (without monitor) CPU might be overkill? I'll probably get some cheap 20"-22" $100 monitor, at most I'd get something like Monitor $209.99: Dell P2314H P2314H Black 23" 8ms Widescreen LED Backlight LCD Monitor IPS 250 cd/m2 1,000:1 since I plan to use it in lieu of a TV, but that'd put me a fair bit over. You mention playing BluRays in 1080. Keep in mind that you will need software to actually play Bluray on Windows. I've got an OEM bluray player (LG, not Asus) from NewEgg, but they generally don't come with the software you need to actually play Blurays directly. (Mine still can't.) Microsoft doesn't license the bluray codecs, so you have to buy some form of software to actually be able to watch them the same way you would a DVD. | ||
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Advantageous
China1350 Posts
On December 02 2014 10:11 felisconcolori wrote: You mention playing BluRays in 1080. Keep in mind that you will need software to actually play Bluray on Windows. I've got an OEM bluray player (LG, not Asus) from NewEgg, but they generally don't come with the software you need to actually play Blurays directly. (Mine still can't.) Microsoft doesn't license the bluray codecs, so you have to buy some form of software to actually be able to watch them the same way you would a DVD. CPU not an overkill, if you just buy a regular 10 dollar CD/DVD drive instead of the blue ray player. Movies are better on TV, where they're meant to be (unless u're running two monitors or a 23 inch monitor). I noticed that you are not running a graphics card which could mean that u're either not running graphically intense games or that you're planning to add later on; in either case, it should be fine with the set up you have now. | ||
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Errol
Canada102 Posts
On December 02 2014 10:20 Advantageous wrote: + Show Spoiler + On December 02 2014 10:11 felisconcolori wrote: You mention playing BluRays in 1080. Keep in mind that you will need software to actually play Bluray on Windows. I've got an OEM bluray player (LG, not Asus) from NewEgg, but they generally don't come with the software you need to actually play Blurays directly. (Mine still can't.) Microsoft doesn't license the bluray codecs, so you have to buy some form of software to actually be able to watch them the same way you would a DVD. CPU not an overkill, if you just buy a regular 10 dollar CD/DVD drive instead of the blue ray player. Movies are better on TV, where they're meant to be (unless u're running two monitors or a 23 inch monitor). I noticed that you are not running a graphics card which could mean that u're either not running graphically intense games or that you're planning to add later on; in either case, it should be fine with the set up you have now. I didn't consider the software issue with Blu-rays, as it was $50 more I decided to just throw it in. I don't get cable and my TV's maybe 30" so my viewing standards aren't high, I'll most likely get a regular CD/DVD. Though if it's just a Windows issue I'm not adverse to throwing Linux into the mix, I'll look into it some more and potentially add it later. | ||
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Westerhound
Finland69 Posts
CPU: Intel Core i3 4330(120,16 €) http://www.hardwareversand.de/en/Sockel 1150/101647/Intel Core i3-4330 Box, LGA1150.article RAM: 8GB G.Skill Aegis DDR3-1600 (68,44 €) http://www.hardwareversand.de/en/1600 Low Voltage/129346/8GB G.Skill Aegis DDR3-1600, CL11-11-11-28.article Case:NZXT H230 (68,12 €) http://www.hardwareversand.de/en/Midi/127145/NZXT H230 Midi-Tower - schallgedämmt, weiß.article HDD: WD 500gb (44,60 €) http://www.hardwareversand.de/en/7200 RPM/39670/WD Blue 500GB SATA 3 6Gb s.article Mobo: MSI H81-33 (42,08 €) http://www.hardwareversand.de/en/DDR3/150593/MSI H81-P33, ATX, Sockel 1150.article PSU: Corsair Builder Serie CX600 (65,71 €) http://www.hardwareversand.de/en/500 - 600 Watts/69039/Corsair Builder Serie CX600 V3 Non-Modular 80+ Bronze, 600 Watt.article Shipping 30€ Total 439,11 € Ill probably upgrade my own GPU to a GTX770 from my current GTX670 and give him the old one for a bit of a discount and budget isnt really set in stone. Questions: 1) Is CPU adequate for this kinda build? Im completely unfamiliar with AMDs CPUs but Im willing to get one if theyre better in the low-end builds. 2) PSU overkill? Price difference isnt big so I thought Id rather get a 600W one in case of further upgrades but Im unsure. As far as I remember RAM timings and Mhz dont really make that much of a difference but correct me if Im wrong Thanks | ||
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fruity.
England1711 Posts
On December 02 2014 10:59 Errol wrote: I didn't consider the software issue with Blu-rays, as it was $50 more I decided to just throw it in. I don't get cable and my TV's maybe 30" so my viewing standards aren't high, I'll most likely get a regular CD/DVD. Though if it's just a Windows issue I'm not adverse to throwing Linux into the mix, I'll look into it some more and potentially add it later. Or dual boot it with Linux, windoze for your games, Linux for dvd and bluray. Somethink like Linux Mint is very windows like and simple to use. Plenty of free software to play (or even rip to hard drive) dvd and bluray. | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20327 Posts
On December 02 2014 22:23 Westerhound wrote: Trying to build a budget gaming PC for my brother. Monitor, OS etc are already provided, budget roughly 550€. Pretty much gonna be used solely for gaming CPU: Intel Core i3 4330(120,16 €) http://www.hardwareversand.de/en/Sockel 1150/101647/Intel Core i3-4330 Box, LGA1150.article RAM: 8GB G.Skill Aegis DDR3-1600 (68,44 €) http://www.hardwareversand.de/en/1600 Low Voltage/129346/8GB G.Skill Aegis DDR3-1600, CL11-11-11-28.article Case:NZXT H230 (68,12 €) http://www.hardwareversand.de/en/Midi/127145/NZXT H230 Midi-Tower - schallgedämmt, weiß.article HDD: WD 500gb (44,60 €) http://www.hardwareversand.de/en/7200 RPM/39670/WD Blue 500GB SATA 3 6Gb s.article Mobo: MSI H81-33 (42,08 €) http://www.hardwareversand.de/en/DDR3/150593/MSI H81-P33, ATX, Sockel 1150.article PSU: Corsair Builder Serie CX600 (65,71 €) http://www.hardwareversand.de/en/500 - 600 Watts/69039/Corsair Builder Serie CX600 V3 Non-Modular 80+ Bronze, 600 Watt.article Shipping 30€ Total 439,11 € Ill probably upgrade my own GPU to a GTX770 from my current GTX670 and give him the old one for a bit of a discount and budget isnt really set in stone. Questions: 1) Is CPU adequate for this kinda build? Im completely unfamiliar with AMDs CPUs but Im willing to get one if theyre better in the low-end builds. 2) PSU overkill? Price difference isnt big so I thought Id rather get a 600W one in case of further upgrades but Im unsure. As far as I remember RAM timings and Mhz dont really make that much of a difference but correct me if Im wrong Thanks There's not really any better AMD CPU's for gaming 2; You can get a higher quality unit like the superflower golden green hx450 for cheaper (depending on where you are) and there's no need for 600w. With a 450w unit you could max overclock an i5 and any single GPU on the market, aside from 290/290x and the gk110 GPU's (which are matched by 970/980, doing the same thing with less power) 3; 670 to 770 isn't really a significant upgrade. 770 is barely better than the 680. If you OC'd both, the difference would be probably not more than 20% or so. If you went to a 970 or a 290, the cost would be a lot higher but it would be close to a ~2x upgrade, so 4x as much difference. Think about that RAM does matter a bit for some stuff, it's best to grab 1600c9 here or manually tune voltage+timings on the kit that you do get (which is way more awkward than just buying 1600c9) | ||
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Incognoto
France10239 Posts
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KwarK
United States43970 Posts
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003DQSMGC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which I ordered off amazon for my playstation and which has worked perfectly with that. I plugged in the desktop, turned the power on to see if it still booted after 8 months idle and then when the lights turned on I pressed and held the power button to turn it back off. It couldn't have been on for more than 3 seconds. It was still plugged in but lights off, no whirring or anything. Ten minutes later smoke starts coming out of the back where the PSU fan vent is. I immediately unplugged it at the wall and the problem seemed to resolve itself. I let it cool and when I opened it up there was a caramel coloured drip coming form the PSU but everything else seemed fine. Please advise. Related Just remembered when I first came to the US it wouldn't run at all until someone in this topic advised me I had to flick the voltage switch on the PSU to 115 from the 230 it was from the UK. This was because at the time I was using a basic UK to US socket adapter and therefore wasn't giving it the voltage it needed. Instead of using the same adapter I used 8 months ago I used the more advanced one that converts the voltage from the 110 the US use to the 220 UK one but forgot to flick the switch on the back back to 230. Mystery solved I guess. Think that's a likely reason? Think it's fucked? | ||
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Blazinghand
United States25559 Posts
On December 03 2014 04:00 KwarK wrote: Not really a build or an upgrade question but I need some help. So with my new parts coming I thought I'd rearrange my desk and reassemble the old PC I scavenged parts from to make this one. It's missing its RAM and graphics card but should still work. I put it on the desk, grabbed the power cord and realised that it was a UK 3 point one and would therefore not plug into the wall in the US. Fortunately I have this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003DQSMGC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which I ordered off amazon for my playstation and which has worked perfectly with that. I plugged in the desktop, turned the power on to see if it still booted after 8 months idle and then when the lights turned on I pressed and held the power button to turn it back off. It couldn't have been on for more than 3 seconds. It was still plugged in but lights off, no whirring or anything. Ten minutes later smoke starts coming out of the back where the PSU fan vent is. I immediately unplugged it at the wall and the problem seemed to resolve itself. I let it cool and when I opened it up there was a caramel coloured drip coming form the PSU but everything else seemed fine. Please advise. Related Just remembered when I first came to the US it wouldn't run at all until someone in this topic advised me I had to flick the voltage switch on the PSU to 115 from the 230 it was from the UK. This was because at the time I was using a basic UK to US socket adapter and therefore wasn't giving it the voltage it needed. Instead of using the same adapter I used 8 months ago I used the more advanced one that converts the voltage from the 110 the US use to the 220 UK one but forgot to flick the switch on the back back to 230. Mystery solved I guess. Think that's a likely reason? Think it's fucked? Yeah, if there was 230V coming into a PSU that is set to receive US voltages, that could fry it. A lot of times they'll just break without causing damage to motherboard or other things they're providing power to so chances are it's just the PSU that broke. | ||
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KwarK
United States43970 Posts
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
Having it set to expect 230V and giving it 115V means it won't work. Having it set to expect 115V and giving it 230V means you fried the input circuitry. You have no idea how compromised the various components are and how incorrect and dirty the power is now. Dirty power will kill your other stuff eventually. edit: tech details + Show Spoiler + Heavily simplified... In power supplies with the voltage selector switch, it's really a setting for whether or not to use the voltage doubler circuit. The mains side of the power supply has a capacitor or two that sees all the power that gets delivered to the computer and is a key part of the operation. These are usually rated for 400V or so. More and they're toast, heavily damaged, could rupture, etc. 115V input, 115V expected: voltage doubler engaged, capacitor(s) see ~325V or so. Comp works. 115V input, 230V expected: voltage doubler not engaged, capacitor(s) see ~162V or so. Comp doesn't work. 230V input, 115V expected: voltage doubler engaged, capacitor(s) see ~650V or so (or not quite, but along these lines). The capacitors get fried. 230V input, 230V expected: voltage doubler not engaged, capacitor(s) see ~325V or so. Comp works. Most non-totally-shitty power supplies don't even have a switch because they adapt to the input automatically. Something that old and obsolete was worth replacing anyway. edit: just buy this now: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182261 (Rosewill Capstone 450-M for $60. or get the non-modular version for $55 if you don't care about fancy cabling options) | ||
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d_runk
124 Posts
 ). The main issue for me is longevity. I only play SC and CSGO, otherwise I just work in PS on it so I'd like to keep using this system for as long as I am able to. Any suggestions?Edit for some clarification: CPU is running stock, no OC. 8 gigs of crucial ballistic ram corsair 430cx PSU I have currently a 128gb kingston ssdnow for system and apps, a 320gb an 1tb Caviars as storage. Usually I unplug the 1tb one as it doen't have any apps just data whiel the 320 one has my steam library and PS scratch disk. | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
Better yet, show pictures or link the product page. | ||
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d_runk
124 Posts
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
Where else are there fan mounting points? Where else are there vents? | ||
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Motlu
Australia884 Posts
http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/xghdgs I am basically at the final stage of my build (unless major flaws are found etc), and can buy most of these parts at a local store for a reasonable price (comparable to online vendors that ship to Australia). I thought I would post my build here for a final once over to see if there are anythings that could be improved. General Questions: 1) Will this build be able to run Sc2 1v1 at decent settings (high/medium) with >30fps? 2) Is the PSU sufficient? 3) How is the motherboard. What disadvantages do I have going with the H81 over other more expensive boards? 4) Will having a single 8gb of RAM have a significant difference over 2x4gb of RAM? 5) Should I spend $10 more on my GPU to get the ASUS or Gigabyte versions rather than the Gainward version? I haven't seen much about Gainward on google so I am unsure about their quality compared to the more well-known manufacturers. Thanks a lot for your help so far and I hope I can finally get to ordering parts soon! | ||
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