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On July 25 2014 00:23 Ropid wrote:Show nested quote +On July 24 2014 14:22 Craton wrote:I'm looking into getting a UPS. My specs: + Show Spoiler +Asrock Z77 Formula OC
3770K (4.5Ghz @ 1.3V [estimated, i don't remember])
2x 8GB DDR3 RAM
2x 5400 RPM HDD
2x 7200 RPM HDD
3x SSD
2x GTX 780 6GB
1x Blu-Ray / DVD / CD combo drive
7x Case fans
And a couple of things powered off USB.
This thing is supposed to handle 1000W for ~7 minutes at I guess full load. I'm not usually running full load, but that should be fine either way. Do you think this is about right or overkill? http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=SMT1500&tab=models From what I could find, it seems its battery pack is two 18 Ah batteries strapped together. One of those batteries is perhaps $40 or so, so the replacement battery pack is worth about $80? If you skip your full-load for several minutes idea, the smaller UPS models use something like 7 Ah batteries. Those are $20 or so. To get around that issue that a tiny UPS can't really keep things running, I've set my stuff up to hibernate when the UPS software thinks the battery is nearly empty. That should make it so there's no work lost if I can't manage to get around to close all stuff.
Something else to keep in mind is whether you need a "Smart" UPS or not - some newer PSUs have an issue with approximated sine wave power (uses squared curve) instead of a "true" sine wave power feed. The one I built needs one - they're a bit more expensive but there are good quality ones that are in the range of APC's normal UPS pricing.
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On July 25 2014 00:23 Ropid wrote:Show nested quote +On July 24 2014 14:22 Craton wrote:I'm looking into getting a UPS. My specs: + Show Spoiler +Asrock Z77 Formula OC
3770K (4.5Ghz @ 1.3V [estimated, i don't remember])
2x 8GB DDR3 RAM
2x 5400 RPM HDD
2x 7200 RPM HDD
3x SSD
2x GTX 780 6GB
1x Blu-Ray / DVD / CD combo drive
7x Case fans
And a couple of things powered off USB.
This thing is supposed to handle 1000W for ~7 minutes at I guess full load. I'm not usually running full load, but that should be fine either way. Do you think this is about right or overkill? http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=SMT1500&tab=models From what I could find, it seems its battery pack is two 18 Ah batteries strapped together. One of those batteries is perhaps $40 or so, so the replacement battery pack is worth about $80? If you skip your full-load for several minutes idea, the smaller UPS models use something like 7 Ah batteries. Those are $20 or so. To get around that issue that a tiny UPS can't really keep things running, I've set my stuff up to hibernate when the UPS software thinks the battery is nearly empty. That should make it so there's no work lost if I can't manage to get around to close all stuff.
Wouldn't something that small have trouble handling the load at all?
On July 25 2014 07:51 felisconcolori wrote:
Something else to keep in mind is whether you need a "Smart" UPS or not - some newer PSUs have an issue with approximated sine wave power (uses squared curve) instead of a "true" sine wave power feed. The one I built needs one - they're a bit more expensive but there are good quality ones that are in the range of APC's normal UPS pricing.
How would you figure that out?
I have this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207020
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United Kingdom20345 Posts
On July 25 2014 00:36 Goldfish wrote:
When playing games, occasionally the whole computer freezes and the sound loops. I have to completely restart the computer.
Anyone have any ideas what could cause that (computer freezes and the sound loops)?
If it doesn't freeze, sometimes the screen goes on/off. (Windows displays display driver has stopped and restarted) which I guess is due to the Video Card.
I tried several different driver versions.
Same issue.
What I did was set the time display driver would restart from 2 seconds to 1 second. (I added an entry to the registry for TdrDelay and set it to 1.)
This did seem to reduce the amount of hard freezes my computer has gotten from playing games and replaced it with simply the screen going off/on (driver restarting I assume but I never get to see see if there is a message in time). Though even with a 1 second delay, my computer still freezes every other day or so of playing.
Any ideas?
I dusted computer. GPU reaches a max of 85C under load (CPU is relatively cool too).
Due to the display driver restarting issue, it likely a problem with the video card?
I might just try replacing it again but I want to know for sure.
I've had "Display driver has stopped and restarted" even on old games but those happen like once every three months (it's really rare for old games). Also I have never had the computer freeze on me for older games (just display driver has stopped and restarted but never a freeze).
For more modern games, it happens every two-three days (freezes). Also sometimes it happens within 30 minutes of of starting up and playing the game and other times it takes 8 hours of playing. On occasion, sometimes I won't get freezes for several days too (but on average it happens once every two to three days or so).
Also the computer never freezes unless I am playing a game (and only a modern graphical intensive game). So from all this, does it seem the problem is with the video card or could it be due to something else?
What are your specs and driver version?
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On July 25 2014 08:29 Craton wrote:Show nested quote +On July 25 2014 00:23 Ropid wrote:On July 24 2014 14:22 Craton wrote:I'm looking into getting a UPS. My specs: + Show Spoiler +Asrock Z77 Formula OC
3770K (4.5Ghz @ 1.3V [estimated, i don't remember])
2x 8GB DDR3 RAM
2x 5400 RPM HDD
2x 7200 RPM HDD
3x SSD
2x GTX 780 6GB
1x Blu-Ray / DVD / CD combo drive
7x Case fans
And a couple of things powered off USB.
This thing is supposed to handle 1000W for ~7 minutes at I guess full load. I'm not usually running full load, but that should be fine either way. Do you think this is about right or overkill? http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=SMT1500&tab=models From what I could find, it seems its battery pack is two 18 Ah batteries strapped together. One of those batteries is perhaps $40 or so, so the replacement battery pack is worth about $80? If you skip your full-load for several minutes idea, the smaller UPS models use something like 7 Ah batteries. Those are $20 or so. To get around that issue that a tiny UPS can't really keep things running, I've set my stuff up to hibernate when the UPS software thinks the battery is nearly empty. That should make it so there's no work lost if I can't manage to get around to close all stuff. Wouldn't something that small have trouble handling the load at all? Show nested quote +On July 25 2014 07:51 felisconcolori wrote:
Something else to keep in mind is whether you need a "Smart" UPS or not - some newer PSUs have an issue with approximated sine wave power (uses squared curve) instead of a "true" sine wave power feed. The one I built needs one - they're a bit more expensive but there are good quality ones that are in the range of APC's normal UPS pricing. How would you figure that out? I have this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207020
The key words are "Active PFC" power supply, as I understand it. So yes, you have a power supply that would need the "Smart" line.
Of course, looking at your linked UPS, I see under the Product Overview:
"Pure sine wave output on battery - Simulates utility power to provide the highest degree of compatibility for active PFC (power factor corrected) servers and sensitive electronics."
So that power supply is good from that standpoint, no worries.
The sticker shock though... $462 at Amazon. Wowzers. I have a Cyberpower UPS (at lower rating, because I don't have as heavy a power draw with no overclock, an 4670k, and only a single R9 280x TOP) and it works pretty decently. Of course, in the same range, the price is comparable - they have a 900w rated model at $200 on Amazon. Not sure if the 1000w is a dealbreaker or not - once you get up that far you start looking at more expensive models aimed at commercial/industrial use no matter who is making it.
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United Kingdom20345 Posts
they have a 900w rated model at $200 on Amazon. Not sure if the 1000w is a dealbreaker or not
A few stock bios 780's, a 3770k @~1.3vcore, even with all the bells and whistles at simultaneous 100% load on both CPU's and the CPU's, with a 90% efficient PSU i can't see it drawing 900 from the "wall" (ups)
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United Kingdom20345 Posts
Your system disk may be capable of scoring higher than 5.9. However, the test to determine this requires 1GB of contiguous free space. Try deleting unused files, then running the Disk Defragmenter before re-running the assessment.
Windows experience index rating my SSD as 5.9 because of this instead of the max rating - it bothers me a lot more than it should. I have 30GB of free space, but apparently not in a single block. I defragmented for a while before (even though i know you're not supposed to..) and it didn't "fix" it. This bothers me way more than it probably should, any ideas?
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On July 24 2014 23:17 Ropid wrote:Show nested quote +On July 24 2014 22:52 yido wrote:
Now it is turning on and off like an emergency shut down.
I'm about to reinstall Windows to see if it is a firmware/virus problem.
Is there any other solution to see if it is a hardware problem before I do this?
I'm assuming the hardware most likely to have the problem is the HDD, followed by the powersupply and the motherboard.
Is that assumption correct? What did you do with that HDD shut down setting? Here's a screenshot that shows how it should look: http://superuser.com/questions/146696/disable-turn-off-hard-disk-after-in-windows-7
Yes I did exactly as the picture shows.
The emergency shut down stopped after one time but the sound is still there.
It still freezes during the duration of the restart sound.
Sorry for late reply, was busy with work for the week.
EDIT: it started a day or two after I reinstalled Windows 7 so is that a possible problem? (believe I stated it before but just a reminder)
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On July 25 2014 12:26 skyR wrote:Active PFC power supplies do not require a pure sine wave UPS but it is recommended by manufacturers for whatever reason. Jonnyguru has a thread about this somewhere. edit: here it is http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3964
There is interesting information in that thread. The reason manufacturers recommend it is because APFC supplies are apparently more sensitive to the shift from line sine wave power to square sine wave power and back, and depending on the quality of the line power, UPS, etc, it's possible that you could damage the PSU. (I've also read where it makes the battery backup fail - not that it doesn't turn on, but that the switchover kicks the PSU in the jimmies and it shuts off anyways. It may or may not be that common, but does turn up frequently in UPS reviews.)
It's probably a move by APFC PSU manufacturers to cover themselves - even if it might work, they don't recommend it because they don't test for failure under those conditions as rigorously. I'd have to go read a lot more about the power factor correction to make a better guess.
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APFC is done to achieve a high power factor, which is the input current to the device more or less following the shape of the input voltage (perfectly in sync is power factor of 1, the max). Current draw needs to be higher when the voltage is higher and lower when the voltage is lower.
For active power factor correction in a computer power supply, there's a controller responsible for a part of the circuit past the bridge rectifier that's pretty much a boost converter (output voltage is higher than input voltage). The key thing is that the controller regulates when the MOSFET switchers turn on and off, allowing current to flow when on and not when off. The controller switches those MOSFETs in such a way that the power supply draws current from the source in a manner that matches the input voltage. So the controller needs to measure the input voltage and so on.
If the input voltage jumps abruptly, this could do weird things to the circuit's operation as sudden jumps in voltage need to be accounted for. A non-sine input makes the problem tougher and less predictable, anyhow.
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Hi all,
I've done a search but haven't been able to find that answer -
Can anyone recommend a decent free .pdf editing programme?
Thanks!
NB The only function that I require is to rotate and save a .pdf 180 degrees
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Having some issues with my tablet. It's a Samsung Tab 10.1. Always worked fine except there is a crack across the screen but it the screen still functions.
A couple days ago I plugged it into my charger and left it for a couple hours. When I came back it had not charged at all. Now if I plug it in nothing happens. If I connect it to my pc through usb it connects. The usb connect sound will play and then followed by the usb disconnected sound.
The only thing I can imagine is that I bought the tablet in the US and now I'm in Sweden, but it worked fine the first couple times that I charged it.
Any help is appreciated.
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On July 26 2014 20:03 Intact wrote:
Having some issues with my tablet. It's a Samsung Tab 10.1. Always worked fine except there is a crack across the screen but it the screen still functions.
A couple days ago I plugged it into my charger and left it for a couple hours. When I came back it had not charged at all. Now if I plug it in nothing happens. If I connect it to my pc through usb it connects. The usb connect sound will play and then followed by the usb disconnected sound.
The only thing I can imagine is that I bought the tablet in the US and now I'm in Sweden, but it worked fine the first couple times that I charged it.
Any help is appreciated.
Is it the same usb charger cable you are using? If not try a different one - if it works that the cable is kaput, if it doesn't it may be an issue with the tablet. Possibly you pulled it out by the cable (rather than by holding the connector) and broke it when it worked last and now it doesn't.
I assume you dropped it to get the crack - is it still in warranty?
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On July 26 2014 20:12 Deleuze wrote:Show nested quote +On July 26 2014 20:03 Intact wrote:
Having some issues with my tablet. It's a Samsung Tab 10.1. Always worked fine except there is a crack across the screen but it the screen still functions.
A couple days ago I plugged it into my charger and left it for a couple hours. When I came back it had not charged at all. Now if I plug it in nothing happens. If I connect it to my pc through usb it connects. The usb connect sound will play and then followed by the usb disconnected sound.
The only thing I can imagine is that I bought the tablet in the US and now I'm in Sweden, but it worked fine the first couple times that I charged it.
Any help is appreciated. Is it the same usb charger cable you are using? If not try a different one - if it works that the cable is kaput, if it doesn't it may be an issue with the tablet. Possibly you pulled it out by the cable (rather than by holding the connector) and broke it when it worked last and now it doesn't. I assume you dropped it to get the crack - is it still in warranty?
Just a quick thought, the back of the tablet says: Rated 5V;2A. the charger im using only says 5V;0.7A. Is the charger simply to weak?
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On July 25 2014 10:57 Cyro wrote:Show nested quote +On July 25 2014 00:36 Goldfish wrote:
When playing games, occasionally the whole computer freezes and the sound loops. I have to completely restart the computer.
Anyone have any ideas what could cause that (computer freezes and the sound loops)?
If it doesn't freeze, sometimes the screen goes on/off. (Windows displays display driver has stopped and restarted) which I guess is due to the Video Card.
I tried several different driver versions.
Same issue.
What I did was set the time display driver would restart from 2 seconds to 1 second. (I added an entry to the registry for TdrDelay and set it to 1.)
This did seem to reduce the amount of hard freezes my computer has gotten from playing games and replaced it with simply the screen going off/on (driver restarting I assume but I never get to see see if there is a message in time). Though even with a 1 second delay, my computer still freezes every other day or so of playing.
Any ideas?
I dusted computer. GPU reaches a max of 85C under load (CPU is relatively cool too).
Due to the display driver restarting issue, it likely a problem with the video card?
I might just try replacing it again but I want to know for sure.
I've had "Display driver has stopped and restarted" even on old games but those happen like once every three months (it's really rare for old games). Also I have never had the computer freeze on me for older games (just display driver has stopped and restarted but never a freeze).
For more modern games, it happens every two-three days (freezes). Also sometimes it happens within 30 minutes of of starting up and playing the game and other times it takes 8 hours of playing. On occasion, sometimes I won't get freezes for several days too (but on average it happens once every two to three days or so).
Also the computer never freezes unless I am playing a game (and only a modern graphical intensive game). So from all this, does it seem the problem is with the video card or could it be due to something else? What are your specs and driver version?
Windows 7 (64 bit)
PSU 750W
Intel i5-3750k
GeForce GTX 650 Ti
Driver version: 327.23
Tried 320.49 and also the latest and still same results.
Also it can crash multiple times in a row.
Sometimes freeze 30 mins ago. Then restart then play again. Then freezes within 10 mins  .
On average about once every two days though (computer freezes while playing game, sound still plays and sometimes loops).
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On July 26 2014 20:20 Intact wrote:Show nested quote +On July 26 2014 20:12 Deleuze wrote:On July 26 2014 20:03 Intact wrote:
Having some issues with my tablet. It's a Samsung Tab 10.1. Always worked fine except there is a crack across the screen but it the screen still functions.
A couple days ago I plugged it into my charger and left it for a couple hours. When I came back it had not charged at all. Now if I plug it in nothing happens. If I connect it to my pc through usb it connects. The usb connect sound will play and then followed by the usb disconnected sound.
The only thing I can imagine is that I bought the tablet in the US and now I'm in Sweden, but it worked fine the first couple times that I charged it.
Any help is appreciated. Is it the same usb charger cable you are using? If not try a different one - if it works that the cable is kaput, if it doesn't it may be an issue with the tablet. Possibly you pulled it out by the cable (rather than by holding the connector) and broke it when it worked last and now it doesn't. I assume you dropped it to get the crack - is it still in warranty? Just a quick thought, the back of the tablet says: Rated 5V;2A. the charger im using only says 5V;0.7A. Is the charger simply to weak?
Charging behavior can be strange straight from the computer and off of an underpowered charger. I think that's probably it.
What might be different from the previous times you charged it is the current battery level, especially if it's lower. At a lower percentage of full charge, the battery voltage drops, and charging is usually faster and draws more current (lowering the voltage from the charger by more by loading it more, generally).
5V 2A chargers shouldn't be that uncommon and expensive. It's at least worth a shot.
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United Kingdom20345 Posts
On July 27 2014 01:13 Goldfish wrote:Show nested quote +On July 25 2014 10:57 Cyro wrote:On July 25 2014 00:36 Goldfish wrote:
When playing games, occasionally the whole computer freezes and the sound loops. I have to completely restart the computer.
Anyone have any ideas what could cause that (computer freezes and the sound loops)?
If it doesn't freeze, sometimes the screen goes on/off. (Windows displays display driver has stopped and restarted) which I guess is due to the Video Card.
I tried several different driver versions.
Same issue.
What I did was set the time display driver would restart from 2 seconds to 1 second. (I added an entry to the registry for TdrDelay and set it to 1.)
This did seem to reduce the amount of hard freezes my computer has gotten from playing games and replaced it with simply the screen going off/on (driver restarting I assume but I never get to see see if there is a message in time). Though even with a 1 second delay, my computer still freezes every other day or so of playing.
Any ideas?
I dusted computer. GPU reaches a max of 85C under load (CPU is relatively cool too).
Due to the display driver restarting issue, it likely a problem with the video card?
I might just try replacing it again but I want to know for sure.
I've had "Display driver has stopped and restarted" even on old games but those happen like once every three months (it's really rare for old games). Also I have never had the computer freeze on me for older games (just display driver has stopped and restarted but never a freeze).
For more modern games, it happens every two-three days (freezes). Also sometimes it happens within 30 minutes of of starting up and playing the game and other times it takes 8 hours of playing. On occasion, sometimes I won't get freezes for several days too (but on average it happens once every two to three days or so).
Also the computer never freezes unless I am playing a game (and only a modern graphical intensive game). So from all this, does it seem the problem is with the video card or could it be due to something else? What are your specs and driver version? Windows 7 (64 bit) PSU 750W Intel i5-3750k GeForce GTX 650 Ti Driver version: 327.23 Tried 320.49 and also the latest and still same results. Also it can crash multiple times in a row. Sometimes freeze 30 mins ago. Then restart then play again. Then freezes within 10 mins . On average about once every two days though (computer freezes while playing game, sound still plays and sometimes loops).
We're on 340 now, 337.5 coming up on 4 months old, so 320 and 327 are probably pretty ancient by now. 337.50+ are pretty important, you should install newest beta or the newest non-beta if you don't want a beta driver (they are mostly fine!) for general use
Aside from that, you could set to use pci-e 2.0 instead of 3.0 in the bios. I don't know if that would do anything.
What's the PSU model exactly?
85c is not a problematic temperature AFAIK, but it's surprising to see it on a 650ti. There must be some bad airflow/cooling there for that to happen
^not sure if any of this would actually fix your issue tbh, just writing stuff
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On July 27 2014 12:03 Cyro wrote:Show nested quote +On July 27 2014 01:13 Goldfish wrote:On July 25 2014 10:57 Cyro wrote:On July 25 2014 00:36 Goldfish wrote:
When playing games, occasionally the whole computer freezes and the sound loops. I have to completely restart the computer.
Anyone have any ideas what could cause that (computer freezes and the sound loops)?
If it doesn't freeze, sometimes the screen goes on/off. (Windows displays display driver has stopped and restarted) which I guess is due to the Video Card.
I tried several different driver versions.
Same issue.
What I did was set the time display driver would restart from 2 seconds to 1 second. (I added an entry to the registry for TdrDelay and set it to 1.)
This did seem to reduce the amount of hard freezes my computer has gotten from playing games and replaced it with simply the screen going off/on (driver restarting I assume but I never get to see see if there is a message in time). Though even with a 1 second delay, my computer still freezes every other day or so of playing.
Any ideas?
I dusted computer. GPU reaches a max of 85C under load (CPU is relatively cool too).
Due to the display driver restarting issue, it likely a problem with the video card?
I might just try replacing it again but I want to know for sure.
I've had "Display driver has stopped and restarted" even on old games but those happen like once every three months (it's really rare for old games). Also I have never had the computer freeze on me for older games (just display driver has stopped and restarted but never a freeze).
For more modern games, it happens every two-three days (freezes). Also sometimes it happens within 30 minutes of of starting up and playing the game and other times it takes 8 hours of playing. On occasion, sometimes I won't get freezes for several days too (but on average it happens once every two to three days or so).
Also the computer never freezes unless I am playing a game (and only a modern graphical intensive game). So from all this, does it seem the problem is with the video card or could it be due to something else? What are your specs and driver version? Windows 7 (64 bit) PSU 750W Intel i5-3750k GeForce GTX 650 Ti Driver version: 327.23 Tried 320.49 and also the latest and still same results. Also it can crash multiple times in a row. Sometimes freeze 30 mins ago. Then restart then play again. Then freezes within 10 mins . On average about once every two days though (computer freezes while playing game, sound still plays and sometimes loops). We're on 340 now, 337.5 coming up on 4 months old, so 320 and 327 are probably pretty ancient by now. 337.50+ are pretty important, you should install newest beta or the newest non-beta if you don't want a beta driver (they are mostly fine!) for general use Aside from that, you could set to use pci-e 2.0 instead of 3.0 in the bios. I don't know if that would do anything. What's the PSU model exactly? 85c is not a problematic temperature AFAIK, but it's surprising to see it on a 650ti. There must be some bad airflow/cooling there for that to happen ^not sure if any of this would actually fix your issue tbh, just writing stuff
I have tried using the latest version (and with a clean install too) and the problem still happens. I switched back just because I haven't had any problems with the current driver version I have, while I have read some reports of people having problems with the latest drivers on the guru3D forums (though to be fair, most of them seem isolated).
PSU is Corsair HX750 (Modular) 80 PLUS GOLD.
Randomly (sometimes within 10 mins or after 8-10 hours of playing or sometimes it'd take several days before it happens), the computer freezes and the sound loops.
And it only happens during games. Due to that, is it likely the video card that is the problem?
I'm thinking due to the similar problem of "Display driver has stopped responding and has recovered" (which also happened frequently with the game I am playing), it may be the video card (of course both cases could be unrelated).
My computer never freezes when I'm playing an old game or something that isn't graphically intensive.
Since it crashes only during games, is the likely cause of the problem the video card?
I just want to know if I should just try replacing the video card. Outside of that, my computer seems relatively stable (and again, it can play the majority of old games, like 5+ year old games fine without any freezes or anything going on). And I have dusted my computer a week ago too.
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Dunno if it is the right thread: Wanted to watch the artosis stream, couldnt do so via firefox so i tried google chrome.It worked out ok but i realzed my fans were going really heavy 5min in, so i checked my graphics card load and it turned out it was going at 70% in contrast to the usual 5%. Did anyone notice the same?
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EPT
