Hello, I bought this YPbPr to HDMI converter because I wanted to connect my playstation portable to my computer monitor. My monitor (AOC 2436VWA) doesn't have an HDMI input however it has DVI and I figured they are the same thing just different pin layout, because I have been using something like this with my PC since I got the monitor. However it seems to be not working with the new converter, all I get is just flicker and the following message: "Input not supported". Here's a couple of images (sorry for bad quality): http://i.imgur.com/YbP7wCL.jpg http://i.imgur.com/MYjKrWa.jpg First image is without the PSP connected, meaning just pure converter box. Second image is taken after connecting the video source. Does anyone have any idea, what could be the cause of this issue? I think it is probably something with HDMI to DVI.
On July 25 2014 00:36 Goldfish wrote: When playing games, occasionally the whole computer freezes and the sound loops. I have to completely restart the computer.
Anyone have any ideas what could cause that (computer freezes and the sound loops)?
If it doesn't freeze, sometimes the screen goes on/off. (Windows displays display driver has stopped and restarted) which I guess is due to the Video Card.
I tried several different driver versions.
Same issue.
What I did was set the time display driver would restart from 2 seconds to 1 second. (I added an entry to the registry for TdrDelay and set it to 1.)
This did seem to reduce the amount of hard freezes my computer has gotten from playing games and replaced it with simply the screen going off/on (driver restarting I assume but I never get to see see if there is a message in time). Though even with a 1 second delay, my computer still freezes every other day or so of playing.
Any ideas?
I dusted computer. GPU reaches a max of 85C under load (CPU is relatively cool too).
Due to the display driver restarting issue, it likely a problem with the video card?
I might just try replacing it again but I want to know for sure.
I've had "Display driver has stopped and restarted" even on old games but those happen like once every three months (it's really rare for old games). Also I have never had the computer freeze on me for older games (just display driver has stopped and restarted but never a freeze).
For more modern games, it happens every two-three days (freezes). Also sometimes it happens within 30 minutes of of starting up and playing the game and other times it takes 8 hours of playing. On occasion, sometimes I won't get freezes for several days too (but on average it happens once every two to three days or so).
Also the computer never freezes unless I am playing a game (and only a modern graphical intensive game). So from all this, does it seem the problem is with the video card or could it be due to something else?
What are your specs and driver version?
Windows 7 (64 bit) PSU 750W Intel i5-3750k GeForce GTX 650 Ti Driver version: 327.23 Tried 320.49 and also the latest and still same results.
Also it can crash multiple times in a row.
Sometimes freeze 30 mins ago. Then restart then play again. Then freezes within 10 mins .
On average about once every two days though (computer freezes while playing game, sound still plays and sometimes loops).
We're on 340 now, 337.5 coming up on 4 months old, so 320 and 327 are probably pretty ancient by now. 337.50+ are pretty important, you should install newest beta or the newest non-beta if you don't want a beta driver (they are mostly fine!) for general use
Aside from that, you could set to use pci-e 2.0 instead of 3.0 in the bios. I don't know if that would do anything.
What's the PSU model exactly?
85c is not a problematic temperature AFAIK, but it's surprising to see it on a 650ti. There must be some bad airflow/cooling there for that to happen
^not sure if any of this would actually fix your issue tbh, just writing stuff
I have tried using the latest version (and with a clean install too) and the problem still happens. I switched back just because I haven't had any problems with the current driver version I have, while I have read some reports of people having problems with the latest drivers on the guru3D forums (though to be fair, most of them seem isolated).
PSU is Corsair HX750 (Modular) 80 PLUS GOLD.
Randomly (sometimes within 10 mins or after 8-10 hours of playing or sometimes it'd take several days before it happens), the computer freezes and the sound loops.
And it only happens during games. Due to that, is it likely the video card that is the problem?
I'm thinking due to the similar problem of "Display driver has stopped responding and has recovered" (which also happened frequently with the game I am playing), it may be the video card (of course both cases could be unrelated).
My computer never freezes when I'm playing an old game or something that isn't graphically intensive.
Since it crashes only during games, is the likely cause of the problem the video card?
I just want to know if I should just try replacing the video card. Outside of that, my computer seems relatively stable (and again, it can play the majority of old games, like 5+ year old games fine without any freezes or anything going on). And I have dusted my computer a week ago too.
I just had a freeze in game and this time without sound looping (and also with a random yellow triangle cut on the screen - seems like a video artifact).
Does this confirm it is a problem with the video card? I want to make sure before getting a new card.
Also whenever freezes do occur (and I have to restart), event viewer doesn't list it.
However when the driver stops and restarts (screen goes off then on real quick), windows does list it.
I checked Windows check for solution (under action center) and it says Video Hardware issue whenever the screen turns off/on (display driver has stopped working and has recovered).
I am still a bit sad since my computer is stable outside of playing the latest games (in fact, I probably might not have bothered with trying to get a new card, but if this means more potential problems, I guess I should replace it now).
So does the random sort of yellow triangle looking artifact on the screen when my computer froze confirm it is a problem with the video card and I should replace it?
On July 25 2014 00:36 Goldfish wrote: When playing games, occasionally the whole computer freezes and the sound loops. I have to completely restart the computer.
Anyone have any ideas what could cause that (computer freezes and the sound loops)?
If it doesn't freeze, sometimes the screen goes on/off. (Windows displays display driver has stopped and restarted) which I guess is due to the Video Card.
I tried several different driver versions.
Same issue.
What I did was set the time display driver would restart from 2 seconds to 1 second. (I added an entry to the registry for TdrDelay and set it to 1.)
This did seem to reduce the amount of hard freezes my computer has gotten from playing games and replaced it with simply the screen going off/on (driver restarting I assume but I never get to see see if there is a message in time). Though even with a 1 second delay, my computer still freezes every other day or so of playing.
Any ideas?
I dusted computer. GPU reaches a max of 85C under load (CPU is relatively cool too).
Due to the display driver restarting issue, it likely a problem with the video card?
I might just try replacing it again but I want to know for sure.
I've had "Display driver has stopped and restarted" even on old games but those happen like once every three months (it's really rare for old games). Also I have never had the computer freeze on me for older games (just display driver has stopped and restarted but never a freeze).
For more modern games, it happens every two-three days (freezes). Also sometimes it happens within 30 minutes of of starting up and playing the game and other times it takes 8 hours of playing. On occasion, sometimes I won't get freezes for several days too (but on average it happens once every two to three days or so).
Also the computer never freezes unless I am playing a game (and only a modern graphical intensive game). So from all this, does it seem the problem is with the video card or could it be due to something else?
What are your specs and driver version?
Windows 7 (64 bit) PSU 750W Intel i5-3750k GeForce GTX 650 Ti Driver version: 327.23 Tried 320.49 and also the latest and still same results.
Also it can crash multiple times in a row.
Sometimes freeze 30 mins ago. Then restart then play again. Then freezes within 10 mins .
On average about once every two days though (computer freezes while playing game, sound still plays and sometimes loops).
We're on 340 now, 337.5 coming up on 4 months old, so 320 and 327 are probably pretty ancient by now. 337.50+ are pretty important, you should install newest beta or the newest non-beta if you don't want a beta driver (they are mostly fine!) for general use
Aside from that, you could set to use pci-e 2.0 instead of 3.0 in the bios. I don't know if that would do anything.
What's the PSU model exactly?
85c is not a problematic temperature AFAIK, but it's surprising to see it on a 650ti. There must be some bad airflow/cooling there for that to happen
^not sure if any of this would actually fix your issue tbh, just writing stuff
I have tried using the latest version (and with a clean install too) and the problem still happens. I switched back just because I haven't had any problems with the current driver version I have, while I have read some reports of people having problems with the latest drivers on the guru3D forums (though to be fair, most of them seem isolated).
PSU is Corsair HX750 (Modular) 80 PLUS GOLD.
Randomly (sometimes within 10 mins or after 8-10 hours of playing or sometimes it'd take several days before it happens), the computer freezes and the sound loops.
And it only happens during games. Due to that, is it likely the video card that is the problem?
I'm thinking due to the similar problem of "Display driver has stopped responding and has recovered" (which also happened frequently with the game I am playing), it may be the video card (of course both cases could be unrelated).
My computer never freezes when I'm playing an old game or something that isn't graphically intensive.
Since it crashes only during games, is the likely cause of the problem the video card?
I just want to know if I should just try replacing the video card. Outside of that, my computer seems relatively stable (and again, it can play the majority of old games, like 5+ year old games fine without any freezes or anything going on). And I have dusted my computer a week ago too.
I just had a freeze in game and this time without sound looping (and also with a random yellow triangle cut on the screen - seems like a video artifact).
Does this confirm it is a problem with the video card? I want to make sure before getting a new card.
Also whenever freezes do occur (and I have to restart), event viewer doesn't list it.
However when the driver stops and restarts (screen goes off then on real quick), windows does list it.
I checked Windows check for solution (under action center) and it says Video Hardware issue whenever the screen turns off/on (display driver has stopped working and has recovered).
I am still a bit sad since my computer is stable outside of playing the latest games (in fact, I probably might not have bothered with trying to get a new card, but if this means more potential problems, I guess I should replace it now).
So does the random sort of yellow triangle looking artifact on the screen when my computer froze confirm it is a problem with the video card and I should replace it?
Grab MSI afterburner, set -50mhz on core and -100mhz on memory, see if you still get issues after applying that and having lower clock speeds
you can monitor clock speeds and gpu usage from MSI afterburner
On July 24 2014 22:52 yido wrote: Now it is turning on and off like an emergency shut down. I'm about to reinstall Windows to see if it is a firmware/virus problem. Is there any other solution to see if it is a hardware problem before I do this? I'm assuming the hardware most likely to have the problem is the HDD, followed by the powersupply and the motherboard. Is that assumption correct?
What did you do with that HDD shut down setting? Here's a screenshot that shows how it should look:
Yes I did exactly as the picture shows. The emergency shut down stopped after one time but the sound is still there. It still freezes during the duration of the restart sound.
Sorry for late reply, was busy with work for the week.
EDIT: it started a day or two after I reinstalled Windows 7 so is that a possible problem? (believe I stated it before but just a reminder)
It is refusing to turn on from start up now. The lights come on and there is two beeps but the rotating sound isn't there. Nothing comes on the screen at all. Not even the ASRock logo. -Please and thank you. EDIT: Fans are staying off and other internal lights are off but the keyboard and mouse light up. The monitor isn't recognizing anything coming to it.
On July 24 2014 22:52 yido wrote: Now it is turning on and off like an emergency shut down. I'm about to reinstall Windows to see if it is a firmware/virus problem. Is there any other solution to see if it is a hardware problem before I do this? I'm assuming the hardware most likely to have the problem is the HDD, followed by the powersupply and the motherboard. Is that assumption correct?
What did you do with that HDD shut down setting? Here's a screenshot that shows how it should look:
Yes I did exactly as the picture shows. The emergency shut down stopped after one time but the sound is still there. It still freezes during the duration of the restart sound.
Sorry for late reply, was busy with work for the week.
EDIT: it started a day or two after I reinstalled Windows 7 so is that a possible problem? (believe I stated it before but just a reminder)
It is refusing to turn on from start up now. The lights come on and there is two beeps but the rotating sound isn't there. Nothing comes on the screen at all. Not even the ASRock logo. -Please and thank you. EDIT: Fans are staying off and other internal lights are off but the keyboard and mouse light up. The monitor isn't recognizing anything coming to it.
You need to open it up and work on it to try to find out what's broken. You could for example try to see if it starts to do something different after you disconnect parts.
So, I thought about asking this over in the CPU build thread, but decided this is probably a better place.
Are there any "OH MY GOD HOW STUPID ARE YOU guides to overclocking"? Something relatively simple, straightforward, with steps in sequence and that doesn't delve into the minutiae of "Well, you could also do... " "And you can keep your UNCORE at..." etc, etc.
Basically, something geared less towards "How to make your PC scream within its tolerances to the max" and more "Here's how to do a simple modest overclock to get more oomph without having to worry too much about frying your boards" ?
(I ask because the last time I was overclocking PCs, it involved just one parameter in the BIOS, and "locked" processors weren't even a concern.)
What are some powerful laptop coolers? I don't really care about noise since I'd be using headphones but I want something that is powerful and can take a real hit to high temps.
Didn't watch but I think his videos are really basic.
I have a feeling i'm not gonna like that vid
first thing: cpu-z, it's broken on almost all Haswell boards and it won't actually show you Vcore, only VID (which can be like 0.1 different from vcore, but it's always ~0.02v or so off)
He talks about wanting to be "100% stable" and testing for 24 hours or more personally, yet he uses Aida64 which is one of the easier tests for a Haswell CPU, i don't really get that. You get tests that are not much hotter than Aida that require ~0.03vcore more to pass for an hour for example
Then, to save power, we're gonna switch to adaptive later on.
Adaptive gives us better power consumption characteristics when the computer is not working hard
Outright wrong, extensively tested and Adaptive doesn't do anything to help idle power states, voltages etc, it's useless and outright bad to use ever unless using some bios versions on some asus boards AFAIK
He doesn't even talk about input voltage etc. There's way better guides out there.
You only have to do some very basic stuff:
Manually set uncore/cache ratio and voltage to etc ~33@1.15 so it doesn't bounce around potentially be unstable (uncore overclocks itself if you don't move it from auto when you increase core ratio! Meanwhile, some boards are known to overvolt uncore to dangerous levels, equivalent of ~>1.4vcore, while doing this..)
Manually set vcore and CPU core multiplier
Set LLC for input voltage, set input voltage ~0.6 over vcore, be aware of it.
Use the right software
If changing multiple things, do them one at a time, because making three things unstable when they all give the same error messages is just really damn stupid and way too many people do this.
^that's about it.
He also says software voltage readouts are not very accurate.. actually they're usually way way more accurate with Haswell than any other CPU/Platform. He's probably looking at a wrong sensor or ignoring some conditions
If you set 1.3vcore manual, which is the only mode that gives you control over load voltages, then you are actually telling the chip to use "up to" 1.3vcore, with ~0.02 extra in certain loads. That's a behavior locked into the chip/ivr that supposedly lets you use a lower average vcore for the same stability levels
----
Basically, something geared less towards "How to make your PC scream within its tolerances to the max" and more "Here's how to do a simple modest overclock to get more oomph without having to worry too much about frying your boards" ?
On simplest level, you just have to set three things once (uncore volts, uncore multiplier, input voltage llc) and then you have three variables to change: Vcore, Input voltage, core multiplier. Aside from that, it's just booting into windows and running certain tests. Doesn't have to take long, an hour of large fft will tell you way more about your vcore on Haswell than 48 hours of Aida ever will.
Take the last section of this post as my simple answer and ignore the rest
Any recommendations on a free Windows IRC client (standalone launcher, not browser extension)? I just want something minimal without a bunch of unnecessary features/ads/crap.
I'm using ~1.76GB of RAM on a completely clean boot, this is my processes tab. Is there any way to lower this significantly? It's not being "released" and i'm RAM crashing on a few programs that are particularly memory hungry or leaky
My msconfig - startup lists only a few microsoft things, my webcam driver and Skype, but i'l still right up at 2.1GB of RAM used just by booting and opening firefox with one tab. It seems unnecessary. Closing all programs, blank windows basic theme desktop = 1.58GB
I seem to remember booting with like 700-900MB used a while ago, not sure how i did that. I don't think i disabled superfetch.
I got it down some now, but looking for general tips to lower it. Google seems to return a bunch of tips for newbie computer users that i've already done
I just finished installing win7 OS on my new SSD (180gb). Do I need to have OS on my second 600gb disk to keep games there? As in the programs x86 map? Or can I just store the files on the old disk straight up? Will they boot slower when on second disk compared to straight on the SSD?
Most games and programs allow you to select the installation directory so you can see it to whatever folder you want ("E:\gamez" for example) on whatever drive, it doesn't have to be titled anything specific. Though I know some programs automatically install it to the Program Files [x86] folder on the OS drive by default and don't let you change the path when first installing it.
But yes, if you change the installation directory to be on your 600GB HDD for games/programs they will boot slower and load/save slower.
On July 30 2014 12:59 Cyro wrote: You only have to do some very basic stuff:
Manually set uncore/cache ratio and voltage to etc ~33@1.15 so it doesn't bounce around potentially be unstable (uncore overclocks itself if you don't move it from auto when you increase core ratio! Meanwhile, some boards are known to overvolt uncore to dangerous levels, equivalent of ~>1.4vcore, while doing this..)
Manually set vcore and CPU core multiplier
Set LLC for input voltage, set input voltage ~0.6 over vcore, be aware of it.
Use the right software
If changing multiple things, do them one at a time, because making three things unstable when they all give the same error messages is just really damn stupid and way too many people do this.
^that's about it.
He also says software voltage readouts are not very accurate.. actually they're usually way way more accurate with Haswell than any other CPU/Platform. He's probably looking at a wrong sensor or ignoring some conditions
If you set 1.3vcore manual, which is the only mode that gives you control over load voltages, then you are actually telling the chip to use "up to" 1.3vcore, with ~0.02 extra in certain loads. That's a behavior locked into the chip/ivr that supposedly lets you use a lower average vcore for the same stability levels
Basically, something geared less towards "How to make your PC scream within its tolerances to the max" and more "Here's how to do a simple modest overclock to get more oomph without having to worry too much about frying your boards" ?
On simplest level, you just have to set three things once (uncore volts, uncore multiplier, input voltage llc) and then you have three variables to change: Vcore, Input voltage, core multiplier. Aside from that, it's just booting into windows and running certain tests. Doesn't have to take long, an hour of large fft will tell you way more about your vcore on Haswell than 48 hours of Aida ever will.
Take the last section of this post as my simple answer and ignore the rest
Okay. Now find someone that does it without using the word variable, and with more pictures Preferably something with specific "Set this to this, then set this to this, then set this to this" (with pictures or even Gigabyte specific setting locations) and then "now boot in, run this test. Did it blow up? No? Great! If it did, go back to [HERE], and change this to this..."
Literally, something written so that a Best Buy sales associate could follow it. I know that I should know more about it to really tweak things properly, but mostly I'm looking for a relatively simple, modest overclock. I'm not sure that exists, but it's a dream - most of the tutorials and the like I see are written with assumptions about technical knowledge. (It's like when I try to explain to my parents - I know what I'm saying makes sense, but it's not something they associate that way or have no clue about because it's outside their realm of experience. Kind of like when I used to make American pop-culture references to my ex-wife, who grew up in Saudi Arabia and Singapore. Blank stare followed by "What?")
On July 30 2014 12:59 Cyro wrote: You only have to do some very basic stuff:
Manually set uncore/cache ratio and voltage to etc ~33@1.15 so it doesn't bounce around potentially be unstable (uncore overclocks itself if you don't move it from auto when you increase core ratio! Meanwhile, some boards are known to overvolt uncore to dangerous levels, equivalent of ~>1.4vcore, while doing this..)
Manually set vcore and CPU core multiplier
Set LLC for input voltage, set input voltage ~0.6 over vcore, be aware of it.
Use the right software
If changing multiple things, do them one at a time, because making three things unstable when they all give the same error messages is just really damn stupid and way too many people do this.
^that's about it.
He also says software voltage readouts are not very accurate.. actually they're usually way way more accurate with Haswell than any other CPU/Platform. He's probably looking at a wrong sensor or ignoring some conditions
If you set 1.3vcore manual, which is the only mode that gives you control over load voltages, then you are actually telling the chip to use "up to" 1.3vcore, with ~0.02 extra in certain loads. That's a behavior locked into the chip/ivr that supposedly lets you use a lower average vcore for the same stability levels
----
Basically, something geared less towards "How to make your PC scream within its tolerances to the max" and more "Here's how to do a simple modest overclock to get more oomph without having to worry too much about frying your boards" ?
On simplest level, you just have to set three things once (uncore volts, uncore multiplier, input voltage llc) and then you have three variables to change: Vcore, Input voltage, core multiplier. Aside from that, it's just booting into windows and running certain tests. Doesn't have to take long, an hour of large fft will tell you way more about your vcore on Haswell than 48 hours of Aida ever will.
Take the last section of this post as my simple answer and ignore the rest
Okay. Now find someone that does it without using the word variable, and with more pictures Preferably something with specific "Set this to this, then set this to this, then set this to this" (with pictures or even Gigabyte specific setting locations) and then "now boot in, run this test. Did it blow up? No? Great! If it did, go back to [HERE], and change this to this..."
Literally, something written so that a Best Buy sales associate could follow it. I know that I should know more about it to really tweak things properly, but mostly I'm looking for a relatively simple, modest overclock. I'm not sure that exists, but it's a dream - most of the tutorials and the like I see are written with assumptions about technical knowledge. (It's like when I try to explain to my parents - I know what I'm saying makes sense, but it's not something they associate that way or have no clue about because it's outside their realm of experience. Kind of like when I used to make American pop-culture references to my ex-wife, who grew up in Saudi Arabia and Singapore. Blank stare followed by "What?")
I saw something like that for ASRock boards for Sandy Bridge and Ivy Bridge CPUs. It had all rambling hidden in spoiler tags so that you could skip it if you wanted. It came with a .zip archive file where all programs for monitoring and testing were collected. It had a list of all BIOS settings for the start. Then it had some rules set up a bit like some sort of algorithm that you could just follow without thinking about what you were doing.
It was still a lot of work for stability testing and tuning because the rules were set up so that you were slowly inching your way towards the best settings for your CPU and your cooler. This was for safety I assume, so that you'd never use dangerous voltages and see scary temperatures.
I think what you could try to do to skip nearly all work is finding someone with a Gigabyte board and similarly powerful cooler to what you have. Then you steal all the BIOS settings for voltages and other random stuff that might be important. After that, the only thing you'd do is find out what multiplier starts to crash for you, then go back down 100 MHz, and that's it. You might be finished in ten minutes or so?
If you learn how all those various Haswell voltages are tied together, that would enable you to customize that stuff some more for your machine. There's definitely very simple rules that tie things together but I didn't see anyone trying very hard to describe it in as little words as possible so I don't know what to suggest to read without getting bored.
hi guys, im having some serious trouble installing window and its driving me nuts. i finally got my hardware problems solved thanks to some help in this thread but now im having trouble installing windows. when the installation begins it always gets stuck at 0% on 'Expanding Windows Files' and cant advance. iv tried it with 2 harddrives and an ssd and always the same result. iv reset uefi settings and switched out sata cables. I ran a check on my ram with the windows ram checker program that came on the disk and it didnt reveal any issues. this thing has me pretty stumped and I would really appreciate any help its been able to install ubuntu just fine so thats what iv been using but id really like to get back to windows.
lemme know if theres any more info that could help diagnose this issue
further testing has revealed some weird shit. when i put the stick of ram that i took out back into its slot the computer refuses to turn on. I took it out again and it boots to ubuntu just fine. just to test i switched them and tried to boot and it wouldnt work.then I switched them back and again it wouldnt boot! but when i moved both of them to the other two slots it booted up just fine.
yes im putting them in the right slots theyr colorcoded for nubs like me
i originally was using 1010 but when i changed it to 1000 it worked once but i couldnt get it to work twice (with either stick). now that its 0101 its fine but im afraid to mess with it now
EPT
. 
![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/sVCmE4R.png)
