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5930 Posts
So you've concluded your fan is faulty in some way or another. Hence the solution is to spend $10 and get a new fan.
Edit: the fit and finish on the CM 690 II Advanced isn't that great. Therefore fast spinning fans (Coolermaster uses 1200RPM fans, which are pretty fast) can cause rattling through vibrations. A possible solution is to soft mount the fans by using rubber fan screws instead of metal ones and putting a gasket between the fan and case.
Besides the possible fit and finish problems, clicking fan noises always suggest the fan power wires are hitting the fan blades or the bearings are dead. I think Coolermaster shoves sleeve bearing fans into their cases, which would explain why they make an awful noise after a period of use.
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Thanks for the tips. I just didn't want to buy a new fan if I didn't have to, even if it is only $10. I also thought it was weird that the noise stopped if I merely turned the lights on/off. I guess I'll just grab another fan next time I'm around my local vendor if the rubber fan screws + gasket doesn't fix the issue since there seems to be no urgency in the sound. Thanks again.
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On December 12 2011 09:56 Blitzkrieg0 wrote:Show nested quote +On December 12 2011 09:29 trancey wrote:On December 12 2011 09:23 Blitzkrieg0 wrote:On December 12 2011 08:37 trancey wrote:On December 12 2011 02:10 Blitzkrieg0 wrote:
My laptop is having problems during startup. Right before I put in my password to login the screen will turn black and unresponsive. Sometimes it will actually reach this screen before blacking out and other times it won't. Sometimes the caps lock and num lock lights will flash on and off and other times they won't. It's not displaying an error message.
This has been happening for the past few days randomly, but normally a hard restart will get it through. Yesterday it took a few resets and then today I can't get it through at all after ten tries. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't, but it might just be on it's dying breath since it's pretty old.
I'm assuming I have some sort of hardware failure, but I have no clue where to go from here.
Update: Got it into windows somehow. My only idea is that some part of my windows is corrupted, specifically when it has hardware failure. Before I was in an endless loop of error messages, but I managed to reboot it without the hardware failing and then it got through just fine. That's my only take on it, but if somebody more experience has any thoughts I'd appreciate it. this is related to a hard drive problem, try booting in safe mode (spamming F8 at start up then selecting safe mode) then running a system restore to an earlier date before this started happening. if you can't get it to do that, you'll need a windows cd and try to reformat and install windows seems unavoidable. Do I lose everything in a system restore or does that just repair the windows partition? The later is usually what happens, but you might lose some registry files that have you current icon/start-up menu setup so you may not be able to locate those programs easily. Most of the time, your computer will revert to how exactly your computer was setup at that particular time (windows 7 saves a system restore point every time a new driver or significant update requiring a restart is installed). I don't have any system restore points ^_^ I do have a windows 7 disk though so I guess my only option is to destroy everything?
Whenever I turn the laptop on it just black screens and the numlock and capslock keys flash on and off. I'm trying to reformat now since it's my only option, but I can't get it to boot from the CD since I don't get any monitor output.
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I am a total noob when it comes to computer hardware. I'm hoping this is the right place to ask this:
I do a lot of graphic design and video editing, I also like to play games. I am building a computer, one that I will (hopefully) be able to use for quite some time and one that can handle some upgrades. I am looking at the following:
i7-2600k
6 GB/s SSD
16 GB RAM
~700w PSU
nVidia 560ti (open to suggestions)
I have no idea what a good motherboard is, and this is the question: What motherboard would people suggest that offers reliability, the option to SLI x16/x16 (if it's worth it - I've no idea as I've read mixed reviews), USB 3.0 (pretty standard now). I'm pretty much lost when it comes to motherboards. I guess a lot of confusion can be solved by asking if I should be preparing with a board that offers SLI. I've never had two GPUs before but I'm starting to do some pretty heavy workloads here and was thinking that it might be a decent option to keep in mind for the future.
Of course, by then it might be easier to just buy a new motherboard anyhow since they're already pretty freaking cheap.
Additional question while I have the chance... is there an obvious improvement in motherboards that follows their naming convention? Like, is P58 < P67 < P68 < etc. with the higher numbers being "better" or more advanced?
Thanks in advance!
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I'm planning on building my second computer and I already have all peripherals. I would like to use the computer for doing homework, browsing the internet and gaming, play on Low setting for all games out of preference.
So my main question is should I really worry about getting a really nice graphics card or since I'm playing on low settings in sc2 (high for "models")? Or should I spend more on the CPU? Do I need a high quality motherboard? I also hope to do streaming once I make my way into masters if that matters.
My budget is around like 500ish Dollars.
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On December 13 2011 05:27 Mjolnir wrote:+ Show Spoiler +I am a total noob when it comes to computer hardware. I'm hoping this is the right place to ask this:
I do a lot of graphic design and video editing, I also like to play games. I am building a computer, one that I will (hopefully) be able to use for quite some time and one that can handle some upgrades. I am looking at the following:
i7-2600k
6 GB/s SSD
16 GB RAM
~700w PSU
nVidia 560ti (open to suggestions)
I have no idea what a good motherboard is, and this is the question: What motherboard would people suggest that offers reliability, the option to SLI x16/x16 (if it's worth it - I've no idea as I've read mixed reviews), USB 3.0 (pretty standard now). I'm pretty much lost when it comes to motherboards. I guess a lot of confusion can be solved by asking if I should be preparing with a board that offers SLI. I've never had two GPUs before but I'm starting to do some pretty heavy workloads here and was thinking that it might be a decent option to keep in mind for the future.
Of course, by then it might be easier to just buy a new motherboard anyhow since they're already pretty freaking cheap.
Additional question while I have the chance... is there an obvious improvement in motherboards that follows their naming convention? Like, is P58 < P67 < P68 < etc. with the higher numbers being "better" or more advanced?
Thanks in advance!
If you want full x16 bandwidth for a SLI configuration on the LGA1155 platform, you need a UD7 or another flagship motherboard in the $300+ range.
No you shouldn't be preparing for a SLI upgrade path. It's terrible since newer generations of cards tend to outperform older generation SLI connfigurations. Heavy GPU workloads do not require SLI, they require multiple GPUs.
If you're not planning for SLI or more GPUs, you don't need a 700w power supply - any quality 500w unit will already provide adequate headroom for a single GPU configuration.
You do not want H61 or H67 boards since they cannot overclock.
You want a P67 or Z68 motherboard, whichever is less expensive or if you really need / want the features of Z68. Z68 offers SSD caching (useless), allows for the use of IGP (useful, you can use it in the meantime if your graphics card ever randomly dies), quick sync (useless for most people), and lucid (useless).
USB3 is not standard. Intel chipsets do not support it natively and Apple has not adopted it either but if you want it than basically any P67 or Z68 motherboard will have it.
Higher-end boards tend to carry more features (debug LED, onboard buttons), more power circuitry (for extreme CPU overclocking, eg. ~5GHz+), more connectivity, longer warranty, etc.
Higher numbers in models are obviously better. Some examples: UD3 > UD5 > UD7 for Gigabyte. ASUS is no-suffix > Pro > Deluxe > ROG, avoid LX and LE because they're shit. MSI is G43 > G45 > GD55 > GD65 > GD80, avoid C because they're shit.
On December 13 2011 14:46 xOff wrote:+ Show Spoiler +I'm planning on building my second computer and I already have all peripherals. I would like to use the computer for doing homework, browsing the internet and gaming, play on Low setting for all games out of preference.
So my main question is should I really worry about getting a really nice graphics card or since I'm playing on low settings in sc2 (high for "models")? Or should I spend more on the CPU? Do I need a high quality motherboard? I also hope to do streaming once I make my way into masters if that matters.
My budget is around like 500ish Dollars.
You don't need a high-end card to play Starcraft II on low. Something like a Radeon HD6670 for around $80 would be adequate for low and still offers decent performance on high.
If you can't discern what a more expensive model gives you in terms of features, connectivity, etcetc than you are probably wasting money. Most people are perfectly fine with a ~$120 board.
If you are interested in streaming, you should invest into a core i5, preferably a 2500k along with a p67 / z68 motherboard and an aftermarket heatsink for overclocking.
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How much power would I need to run that setup? (Using all you suggested)
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A ~400w unit such as the Corsair CX430V2, Antec Neo Eco 400C, or similar would be fine. You can get a ~500w unit if you have plans to upgrade the GPU to something more powerful.
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Hey, i have a (for you guys) simple question.
Some years a ago a freind of mine built a Gaming-PC for me. It has a Geforce GTX 260 inside, and he said, once the performances are getting bad, i could just buy another GTX 260, and put it into my PC. Now: what do i have to look out for?
-Do i need to buy the GTX 260 from the same manufacturer? I have a "Gainward Geforce GTX 260", is it necessary the new onw is also from gainward, or can i also use a Gigabyte, or ZOTAC GTX 260?
-Anything else i should be aware before i put it into the PC? thanks 
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5930 Posts
No don't do that. It is a very bad idea to SLI very old graphics cards because performance will be pathetic. Either get a new, current generation GPU relevant to your screen's resolution or wait a month to see what AMD has cooked up.
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I am having the strangest problem...
I just built my new pc, but if I have the case closed (it's a 600t corsair) it crashes within 10 minutes in windows 7.
The screen turns black/green/blue then hangs a few seconds later. No BSoD.
Nothing is overheating, CPU and GPU both at 50c.
I'm at a loss as to what could be causing this.
Here are my specs
600t corsair
Q6600 OC @ 3.4ghz (Stable temp wise when the case is closed)
P5Q pro turbo
Sapphire AMD Radeon 6870 (Stable temp aswell)
Antec NEO ECO 520W
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus
SSD+HDD, don't see how they can be related to this at all.
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ok xmas is coming and i gonna need 1 last opinion about this rig my friend chose for me.Either i choose his or the 2nd
#1
I5 2500k
M/B: MSI H61MA-E35-B3-H61
RAM: PC3 10600/1333 kingston cl9 [2pcs]
HDD: WD 500GB 32MB (caviar black)
GFX: MSI N560GTX-Ti 2GB DDRS tin Frozr II OC
Case: coolermaster elite 311 basic
PSU: seasonic X series 760W modular (7yrs)
Monitor: 24” Asus VS248H
or #2
CPU: Intel 2500K
M/B: G-B Z68XP-UD4
RAM: 8G 2133 GSkill Ripjaws-X
HDD: Seagate SATA3 1TB
GFX: GB 1G GTX560
Case: Antec 902v3
PSU: Antec TP650
Monitor: 24” Asus VS248H
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5930 Posts
Can you change any of the options? Because both systems are not very good. If you want me to suggest some good options, just post where you are buying the parts from.
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On December 13 2011 23:33 Womwomwom wrote:
Can you change any of the options? Because both systems are not very good. If you want me to suggest some good options, just post where you are buying the parts from.
yeah sure u can change the options
those are from my local shops and i dont care about my budget at all.
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5930 Posts
CPU: Intel 2500K
CPU Heatsinks: Hyper 212+
M/B: MSI P67A-GD55
RAM: 4GB or 8GB of 1333mhz Kingston stuff
HDD: Some high density 5400RPM drive.
SSD: 120GB Samsung/Intel/Crucial SSD.
GFX: GTX560 Ti 1GB.
Case: Antec 1100.
PSU: Antec Neo Eco 520C or similar. Basically a 500W PSU that isn't terrible.
Monitor: 24” Asus VS248H
Its really hard to pick out parts without an actual list. This is kind of what you are looking for however. The previous options are bad because:
- For a single 24" monitor, you don't need high end motherboards, 80+ Gold PSUs, or 650W PSUs.
- H61 motherboards can't overclock. So the first build doesn't make sense.
- 2GB of memory is pointless for low resolutions. So first build is putting money into hardware that won't be used.
- The Antec 900 is a pathetic case. Its been replaced by the Antec 1100 which is actually good.
- Gigabyte motherboards seem to have problems with power regulation. Their LLC values are out of wack, for instance.
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Will my Acer Aspire 6920 notebook be able to run SC2 (even at lowest settings) at all?
Havent had a clue about computer since i was 15
Specs:
-Intel Duo core T5750 2.0 GhZ
-3 GB ram @667mhz
-GeForce 9500M GS
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It probably would but it won't run nice.
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should run at lowest settings yeah but probably not that well.
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On December 13 2011 23:05 Nabutso wrote:
I am having the strangest problem...
I just built my new pc, but if I have the case closed (it's a 600t corsair) it crashes within 10 minutes in windows 7.
The screen turns black/green/blue then hangs a few seconds later. No BSoD.
Nothing is overheating, CPU and GPU both at 50c.
I'm at a loss as to what could be causing this.
Here are my specs
600t corsair
Q6600 OC @ 3.4ghz (Stable temp wise when the case is closed)
P5Q pro turbo
Sapphire AMD Radeon 6870 (Stable temp aswell)
Antec NEO ECO 520W
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus
SSD+HDD, don't see how they can be related to this at all.
Wait a minute, you built a NEW PC and you're using a Q6600? Did you get this chip used? Why in the world would you go for a 3rd generation processor that's coming close to 4 years old on a new PC? Also on the subject, a Q6600 means you're on an LGA 775 motherboard, which is only DDR2 compatible. Is your RAM DDR3?
If your RAM is compatible, I want to say there is something wrong with your overclock. Q6600's are notorious for requiring a high vcore to OC which is harmful in excess. Restore everything to default and see if it boots.
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It always boots fine.
I got the CPU for free used, yes.
I am using DDR2.
It crashes with and without the overclock.
Temperatures are all fine.
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EPT
