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5930 Posts
One of us has to be wrong. If we assume Thermalright cannot even update their own website properly (even how the new website shows they are identical - look at my links - since they have identical fin arrangements, number of heatpipes, and decorative holes), then why does Guru3D have the 860g value for their old HR-02 review?
Its OK to be wrong you know. The Macho packaging is definitely like this and and the Macho definitely has a nickle coated base, right? Not just that, LGA1155 didn't even exist during that review, which is when the Macho had direct support for, since it was done during September 2010.
+ Show Spoiler [Reasons why Thermalright Macho is so c…] +Thermalright went extremely cheap on the heatpipes, base, packaging (apparently really flimsy cardboard), and profit margin to bring a product that allows them to compete in the already bloated heatsink market. In the high end, they've been squeezed dry by Noctua, who has better everything, and Corsair, who owns the closed watercooling loop market and enthusiast goodwill, and they haven't really got anything in low end which is owned by the Coolermaster Hyper 212+.
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Thanks for all the great replies.
Shikyo wrote:
Caviar Blacks are too costly, try buying cheap Green 5400 RPM drives. However, what I would do for this kind of a relatively high-end build is just buy an SSD right now and then buy the hard drives way later, when the prices become normal again. You're wasting like 150$ per hard drive there.
Thanks, I guess I'll stick with the SSD now and get a 1TB Caviar blue for production work plus some caviar greens for storage later on.
Win8 is imo the new vista, I wouldn't wait.
Yeah, judging from all the responses I guess I'll stick to Windows 7.
What are your needs?
The most intensive work I can think of would be work in After Effects and Premiere Pro (sorry I didn't mention this initially, the video work is done by a friend, not me). I also do music production and recording in a DAW, Ableton Live. It'll be hooked up to an audio interface which in turn will be linked to various MIDI controllers, analog synthesizers and effects, etc. Other work would include image editing in Lightroom and Photoshop. It'll also be used for gaming with dual screens.
Well, I'd get 2700k instead of 2600k if you're overclocking, just plain 2600 if you aren't. However, you really should overclock in my opinion, assuming you have intensive uses for the CPUs.
Yeah, I think I will overclock. I guess this will mean I have to reselect various parts?
Also, what are you using hyperthreading for? If you have no proper use for it, you'd be fine with a 2500k and could safe 100$ or so. The power supply also is way overkill, something like 550W would be good assuming you're overclocking and going with a very high-end card. Otherwise 450W is enough.
Point taken, but I would like to get the 2600k for the QuickSync (sorry I didn't mention this). I will go for a 550W then for the power supply, could I get some recommendations?
womwomwom wrote:
Get a Firewire card for production work and just use the integrated audio. If the integrated audio sucks, get a sound card. Integrated audio isn't half bad these days, its easily usable.
Will do.
Some audio/video editing software are capable of using nVidia's CUDA technology in neat ways. Can your software harness the power of CUDA? If so, you might want to look into getting a GTX570. Otherwise, a GTX560 Ti or HD6950 is what you should be looking at.
As for motherboard, how many PCI/PCIe devices do you want to have? Can your software use QuickSync? Are you sure you don't want to overclock? Once you answer that, it'll be easy to give you a suitable motherboard.
Either way, if you are overclocking I'd stick with Asus for the slick BIOS and great power delivery. If you're not I'll stick with Intel motherboards because they are absolutely rock solid. Your budget is absolutely massive so I wouldn't try and save $20 just to get an lesser motherboard.
Nope, no CUDA support. As for the PCI devices, I think I will have 3 in total; a video card, a card to add firewire ports and a card to add additional usb ports (is there anything else you think I would need to add?). I would like to have a few additional slots just in case I want to add anything else (maybe 2?) although this isn't a necessity. And yes, I would like to have QuickSync. Also, I think I would like to overclock, so would this change some of the other parts I need and would this make it more difficult to achieve a relatively silent PC?
Finally, as for the cooling, would the Thermalright HR-02 still do the trick given the new requirements? Or would I have to go for something more powerful?
Also, I forgot to add a cd/dvd drive, are there any recommendations for some capable of playing and writing cd's, dvd's and blurays? Or would I have to get seperate drives?
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^^It's worth mentioning that you might get different advice and better deal if you ask around at the time when you said you plan on building in jan-march. Unless you plan on buying the components now and assemble them later for some reason. You'll probably get more for your money.
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5930 Posts
Now you mention it, I have to agree. Most of the build will be fine, if you want to determine the general costs involved, but AMD will have released their new badass GPUs by then so you should post again during the time you want to buy it. Hard disk prices might go down but I'm not holding my breath because its going to take a while to reach critical mass again.
If someone hasn't suggested a good overall build, I'll suggest one tomorrow sometime.
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change your cpu, you are spending alot on other things, but getting a lousy cpu.
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On November 17 2011 23:17 Womwomwom wrote:One of us has to be wrong. If we assume Thermalright cannot even update their own website properly (even how the new website shows they are identical - look at my links - since they have identical fin arrangements, number of heatpipes, and decorative holes), then why does Guru3D have the 860g value for their old HR-02 review? Its OK to be wrong you know. The Macho packaging is definitely like this and and the Macho definitely has a nickle coated base, right? Not just that, LGA1155 didn't even exist during that review, which is when the Macho had direct support for, since it was done during September 2010. + Show Spoiler [Reasons why Thermalright Macho is so c…] +Thermalright went extremely cheap on the heatpipes, base, packaging (apparently really flimsy cardboard), and profit margin to bring a product that allows them to compete in the already bloated heatsink market. In the high end, they've been squeezed dry by Noctua, who has better everything, and Corsair, who owns the closed watercooling loop market and enthusiast goodwill, and they haven't really got anything in low end which is owned by the Coolermaster Hyper 212+. Um on their site they list Macho at 860g and HR-02 at 1100g, read.
Silentrig.com is one of the best-regarded computer stores in Finland with generally the cheapest prices and very well thought-out products, why do you think they'd do this:
http://www.silentrig.com/product/1233/thermalright-hr-02-macho
http://www.silentrig.com/product/870/thermalright-hr-02
?
A fan extra = 20€ cheaper? Yeah right.
Also on their homepage they DO LIST them seperately and they also say that Mecho is 860g and HR-02 is 1100g, I just linked them last page. I have no problems admitting I'm wrong when the evidence points towards that, but oh you don't want to be around when you try arguing against me when I'm right.
You linked to their OLD PAGE, THIS:
http://www.thermalright.com/products/index.php?act=data&cat_id=35&id=95
Here's the NEW PAGE:
http://www.thermalright.com/new_a_page/product_page/cpu/hr-02/product_cpu_hr-02.html
See the new_a_page? What do you think that means? "old page"?
But honestly that doesn't even seem like a new page and it seems like they have 2 products they call HR-02 that they think are different. Either way, there's 2 different HR-02s and the Macho one isn't DESIGNED FOR BEING USED PASSIVE like the other one is even though they both should work.
Also in the pictures the heatsinks have differently colored parts.
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Rho, you may want to fill out the questionnaire in the OP. Be specific about the games/game types she likes to play, as this can affect what she needs - gaming is more intensive than theater or light work (office programs), so that'll drive components. Much of your build is terrible for your purposes (Processor, motherboard, and RAM are all either bad in terms of performance or overpriced for no good reason). Also, with an Intel build, you can get a cheaper power supply. The 6950 is very powerful, but unless you're gaming on a resolution higher than 1920x1080, you can get the 1GB version for a little cheaper and identical performance.
You can probably find a hard drive twice the size for $10-$20 more. The case is very pink. I hope your wife likes pink. Don't take offense that I said your build was terrible, you were smart enough to come to this forum where people smarter than me can double check it. Hopefully you're comfortable re-pinking... er, re-thinking... most of the build.
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Hello, I am planning on building a computer soon. I am going to order the parts for it next week.
My current setup, I don't think that I will use anything from this aside from the keyboard and mouse:
+ Show Spoiler +dell dimension c521
amd athlon x2 4000+ (2.1ghz)
2gb ddr2 300mhz ram
nvidia 9400 gt
slimline dell case
dell psu (i think it's 280w)
acer 21" 1600x900 monitor
das keyboard silent
razer abyssus
What is your budget?
I can spend as much as $1000, but that doesn't mean that I want to spend that much.
What is your resolution?
1600x900 currently, but I'm planning on upgrading to a 1080p monitor
What are you using it for?
Skyrim, Starcraft 2, Dota 2, League of Legends, maybe Battlefield 3
What is your upgrade cycle?
Really long, I got this computer in like 2007~ (i know it was when vista was relatively new), but I have upgraded it since then; when I got it, it didn't have a video card and only had 1gb of ram.
When do you plan on building it?
Christmas
Do you plan on overclocking?
Yes
Do you need an Operating System?
Yes
Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire?
Not unless I can afford it.
Where are you buying your parts from?
Amazon or Newegg
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On November 17 2011 23:50 gruff wrote:
^^It's worth mentioning that you might get different advice and better deal if you ask around at the time when you said you plan on building in jan-march. Unless you plan on buying the components now and assemble them later for some reason. You'll probably get more for your money.
My bad, I should have mentioned that I meant March at latest; it's more of a deadline rather than the actual set time I plan to build it.
On November 18 2011 00:37 Womwomwom wrote:
Now you mention it, I have to agree. Most of the build will be fine, if you want to determine the general costs involved, but AMD will have released their new badass GPUs by then so you should post again during the time you want to buy it. Hard disk prices might go down but I'm not holding my breath because its going to take a while to reach critical mass again.
If someone hasn't suggested a good overall build, I'll suggest one tomorrow sometime.
See above, but if the GPUs are worth the wait I guess I could postpone it a few months.
So right now it's looking something like this judging by the various opinions on here, however I'm unsure of some things now that I'm going to overclock and I'm also having trouble selecting a sufficient GPU:
CPU: Intel Core i7-2700K Sandy Bridge LGA 1155
RAM: CORSAIR XMS3 16GB (4 x 4GB)
SSD: Intel 320 Series 160GB
HDD: -(x1) Western Digital Caviar Blue WD10EALX 1TB for audio and video related storage
-(x2) Western Digital Caviar Green 2TB for general storage
Heatsink: Unsure
Motherboard: Unsure
GPU: Unsure
Case: LIAN LI PC-A77F Full Tower (how would this do in terms of noise?)
PSU: CORSAIR Builder Series CX500 500W or Antec NEO ECO 520C 520W or Antec EarthWatts EA-500D Green 500W (apparantly the Corsair does well in terms of quietness, but I'm unsure of which one to go for)
Firewire Card: SIIG 3 Ports FireWire 800 Model NN-FW0012-S1 (will be hooked up to an audio interface)
CD Drive: ASUS 24X DVD Burner Model DRW-24B1ST
Upgrade Cycle:
Long ~2-3 years
Main Uses:
-Video work in Premiere Pro and After Effects
-Audio work in Ableton Live
-Image editing in Photoshop and Lightroom
-Gaming (Diablo 3, Starcraft 2, Crysis 2, Metro 2033, Skyrim are a few examples)
-Multitasking (e.g. video encoding and gaming)
Budget:
At most $3000 (AUD), but I'd like to keep it at around the $2000 mark. 2000 is not a hard cap though.
Other Information:
-Wish to achieve a relatively silent PC
-Wish to have a dual screen setup, will be doing gaming on dual screens
-QuickSync is required
-CUDA is not required
-Will be overclocking
-OS will most likely be Windows 7 Ultimate
Is this looking all ok? Still need help with the mobo, gpu and cooling though.
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1-Why are you buying an intel 320 series? your mobo is going to support SATA3 so I would take advantage of the new SSDs.
2-I dont think you can/should game on dual screen. (either 1 or 3)
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On November 18 2011 07:03 Ata wrote:
1-Why are you buying an intel 320 series? your mobo is going to support SATA3 so I would take advantage of the new SSDs.
2-I dont think you can/should game on dual screen. (either 1 or 3)
Which SSD would you recommend? I would like to have ~160GB of space.
Well, I guess I'll keep gaming to one screen, but I still would like to use a dual screen setup for audio/video/image work. I guess this would mean I wouldn't need an as powerful GPU?
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5930 Posts
Intel 320 is fine. If you don't want that, get a Crucial M4. Both are reliable SSDs.
Well, I guess I'll keep gaming to one screen, but I still would like to use a dual screen setup for audio/video/image work. I guess this would mean I wouldn't need an as powerful GPU?
No, it shouldn't matter. Unless you're doing some complex image, audio, or video processing, your system shouldn't notice a difference.
On November 18 2011 02:45 Shikyo wrote:
Hilarious post
Shikyo, if you want to prove me wrong, just use press releases. Its not difficult because I've checked the press releases and am willing to admit I am wrong. I still can't believe you're using an obviously old website to try and prove me wrong...you must think we were born yesterday.
Yes I think that website is as good as "old page" because you and I know "new_a_page" is a placeholder name created by a lazy web developer. This supposedly new page you keep telling me doesn't even list LGA2011 and LGA115 as available mounting systems. It doesn't include newer heatsinks either like the Archon. This "new_a_page" website sure is very recent!
And yes, the two heatsinks have different coloured parts. You might have noticed that the Macho, that you thought Guru3D was mistakenly given in September 2010, had nickel coated heatpipes and base as well as mounting bracket support for specifically LGA115. That's the point: if you even looked at the review, it would be obvious Guru3D wasn't given a Macho because it doesn't have bare heatpipes and base...this is ignoring the fact it was reviewed during 2010.
They are, in terms of performance, exactly the same heatsink. One is not "significantly" larger, or smaller, than the other however from checking press releases for the product, you are actually correct about the weight and size. The Macho has identical width and length however the depth of shorter by 0.8mm (probably enough to prevent the fans from covering Gigabyte RAM slots). The heatpipe structure is still identical and both still have 32 fins so performance is, unsurprisingly, identical.
In the process of proving myself wrong, I have also found out that Thermalright apparently an "official retailer" in North America to drive distribution costs down. Its some website called Nan's Gaming Gear, as unprofessional it may seem, which stocks all of those cool Thermalright CPU gear (True Spirit, Macho, and TY-140s) that Amazon, Newegg, and NCIX doesn't stock.
You can also save a lot of money by not coating the heatpipes and base in nickel and cutting into your profit margin. Noctua has stated that the reason so many manufacturer do direct heat touch and leave heatpipes completely bare is because its so cheaper to do so...and because Noctua is not a scrub tier company, they will never do a DHT cooler. Its the exact same concept of PCs trying to compete with Apple, something all of us would know very well - high end gear has always had huge profit margins so its not difficult for Thermalright to produce such a cheap cooler.
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On November 18 2011 06:52 DeSu wrote:
CPU: Intel Core i7-2700K Sandy Bridge LGA 1155
RAM: CORSAIR XMS3 16GB (4 x 4GB)
SSD: Intel 320 Series 160GB
HDD: -(x1) Western Digital Caviar Blue WD10EALX 1TB for audio and video related storage
-(x2) Western Digital Caviar Green 2TB for general storage
Heatsink: Unsure
Motherboard: Unsure
GPU: Unsure
Case: LIAN LI PC-A77F Full Tower (how would this do in terms of noise?)
PSU: CORSAIR Builder Series CX500 500W or Antec NEO ECO 520C 520W or Antec EarthWatts EA-500D Green 500W (apparantly the Corsair does well in terms of quietness, but I'm unsure of which one to go for)
Firewire Card: SIIG 3 Ports FireWire 800 Model NN-FW0012-S1 (will be hooked up to an audio interface)
CD Drive: ASUS 24X DVD Burner Model DRW-24B1ST
Some comments to consider:
i7-2600k is same as i7-2700k (same manufacturing process, same design, same exact chip), just set with a CPU multiplier that is 1 setting lower and cheaper. You can change this setting in the BIOS, and that's what you would do to overclock, so really there's no difference but the price. On a more technical note, Intel internally sorts CPUs in terms of various physical parameters and decides which should be sold as i7-2700k, i7-2600k, i5-2500k, and so on all the way down; this means the average i7-2700k sold is slightly more physically pristine and may be very slightly better for very high overclocks which you probably don't care about.
Don't pay attention to the Corsair brand if there's another kit when you're purchasing, that's cheaper.
Intel 320 is fine. Most competitors you should be looking at, don't have a 160GB size. Crucial M4 128GB and Samsung 830 128GB should also be considered if you don't mind losing 32GB.
Lian Li PC-A77F is hilariously huge and all aluminum, so very expensive. Larger size is a liability for cooling, and most Lian Li cases aren't as good for quiet builds as some alternatives.
At this kind of price, I would recommend getting something better than Corsair's budget CX line. You don't want the Earhwatts Green EA-500D and its 80mm fan. Neo Eco is a fine choice on a budget, but consider spending more here if you want something quieter or more reliable (though these options you've listed are not bad at all, they're arguably not consistent with the rest of the build, if you understand what I mean).
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On November 18 2011 08:17 Womwomwom wrote:
Intel 320 is fine. If you don't want that, get a Crucial M4. Both are reliable SSDs.
Ok, I'll get the Intel 320 then.
What do you think of this as a GPU? Overkill? Considering I have a long upgrade cycle I thought it might be better get get something higher range.
Also, could I get some help with the heatsink and motherboard please? I'm not sure what to get now that I am overclocking and trying to get a relatively silent pc.
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On November 18 2011 08:35 Myrmidon wrote:Show nested quote +On November 18 2011 06:52 DeSu wrote:
CPU: Intel Core i7-2700K Sandy Bridge LGA 1155
RAM: CORSAIR XMS3 16GB (4 x 4GB)
SSD: Intel 320 Series 160GB
HDD: -(x1) Western Digital Caviar Blue WD10EALX 1TB for audio and video related storage
-(x2) Western Digital Caviar Green 2TB for general storage
Heatsink: Unsure
Motherboard: Unsure
GPU: Unsure
Case: LIAN LI PC-A77F Full Tower (how would this do in terms of noise?)
PSU: CORSAIR Builder Series CX500 500W or Antec NEO ECO 520C 520W or Antec EarthWatts EA-500D Green 500W (apparantly the Corsair does well in terms of quietness, but I'm unsure of which one to go for)
Firewire Card: SIIG 3 Ports FireWire 800 Model NN-FW0012-S1 (will be hooked up to an audio interface)
CD Drive: ASUS 24X DVD Burner Model DRW-24B1ST Some comments to consider: i7-2600k is same as i7-2700k (same manufacturing process, same design, same exact chip), just set with a CPU multiplier that is 1 setting lower and cheaper. You can change this setting in the BIOS, and that's what you would do to overclock, so really there's no difference but the price. On a more technical note, Intel internally sorts CPUs in terms of various physical parameters and decides which should be sold as i7-2700k, i7-2600k, i5-2500k, and so on all the way down; this means the average i7-2700k sold is slightly more physically pristine and may be very slightly better for very high overclocks which you probably don't care about. Don't pay attention to the Corsair brand if there's another kit when you're purchasing, that's cheaper. Intel 320 is fine. Most competitors you should be looking at, don't have a 160GB size. Crucial M4 128GB and Samsung 830 128GB should also be considered if you don't mind losing 32GB. Lian Li PC-A77F is hilariously huge and all aluminum, so very expensive. Larger size is a liability for cooling, and most Lian Li cases aren't as good for quiet builds as some alternatives. At this kind of price, I would recommend getting something better than Corsair's budget CX line. You don't want the Earhwatts Green EA-500D and its 80mm fan. Neo Eco is a fine choice on a budget, but consider spending more here if you want something quieter or more reliable (though these options you've listed are not bad at all, they're arguably not consistent with the rest of the build, if you understand what I mean).
Point taken, 2600k it is.
What do you think of the Antec P280 for the case? Somebody mentioned this case earlier.
edit: How about these: Coolermaster HAF 922 and NZXT’s H2 Classic Series Silent Mid Tower Chassis
Also, do you have any recommendations for a PSU?
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The 580 is simply a waste of money for single-monitor gaming. Horrendous overkill. I know you want to have a long upgrade cycle, but honestly, it's not that hard to switch out a video card. Buy a ~$250 video card now and another ~$250 video card in a few years and you can have essentially equivalent performance today and superior performance tomorrow for the same price. Plus you get to keep that $250 in the bank for awhile. Plus, a 560Ti or 6950 will probably have you playing on high settings for years anyway.
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On November 18 2011 08:59 MisterFred wrote:
The 580 is simply a waste of money for single-monitor gaming. Horrendous overkill. I know you want to have a long upgrade cycle, but honestly, it's not that hard to switch out a video card. Buy a ~$250 video card now and another ~$250 video card in a few years and you can have essentially equivalent performance today and superior performance tomorrow for the same price. Plus you get to keep that $250 in the bank for awhile. Plus, a 560Ti or 6950 will probably have you playing on high settings for years anyway.
Thanks, how about an EVGA 01G-P3-1561-AR GeForce GTX 560 Ti? Would this suffice?
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EPT
