EPTHere's a whole new configuration using a higher end processor and gpu while still staying under 1500$. Taxes and windows might bring you over, but you can always downgrade to a silver certified PSU and maybe even down to the 560 ti.
Computer Build Resource Thread - Page 353
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Habel
United States123 Posts
Here's a whole new configuration using a higher end processor and gpu while still staying under 1500$. Taxes and windows might bring you over, but you can always downgrade to a silver certified PSU and maybe even down to the 560 ti. | ||
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Myrland
Norway4 Posts
I'm looking to buy a new monitor to be used mainly for all kinds of gaming aswell as watching movies. Now, I'm close to clueless on this subject but from what I've found while researching is that these two, Asus VE247H (1790 NOK->~320 USD) and Dell UltraSharp U2311H (1899 NOK->~350 USD), are considered very good choices for their price-range. The U2311H has the e-IPS panel providing a broader viewing angle and generally better picture quality, however the VE247H is using a TN-panel giving it worse quality, but lower latency. Do you feel the higher latency of the U2311H? I've also looked into 120hz screens, which is rumored to have an extremely smooth feeling to them and I found BenQ XL2410T (3490 NOK->~630 USD). My question to you are; is it worth to pay such a premium for the 120hz or should I stick with the cheaper ones? If so, which one? Are there any better choices out there? My requirements would be 23-24 inches. Preferably a 16: 9 aspect ratio, but 16:10 is okay. My budget would max out at around $630, but if it's not worth it to go so high I don't mind a cheaper one. Thank you. | ||
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manchego
8 Posts
I've made some modifications based on your recommendations. Bumped memory down from 8GB to 4GB because I don't think I need the extra 4 GB yet. Would something like this work? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233132 From 650W to 500W on the PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139027 The other decisions were based mainly on brand loyalty I guess. I had good experiences with both Asus and Antec customer service before and I don't mind forking over a small amount of cash more for that. This is what I'm looking at now then: Case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129042 HDD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136073 GPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130610 Motherboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131705 CPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115072 In addition to the changes I talked about before, plus Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit. How's that? | ||
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geethy
Australia67 Posts
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On June 19 2011 11:08 geethy wrote: Hey, I've been reading a bit on the GTX 570 Direct CU II, and I'm a bit confused about the what it means by it having to take 3 slots. I'm given to understand that this means that it will take 3 PCI slots at x16. The motherboard i'm getting is the ASUS P8P67 PRO Motherboard B3, and I was checking the specs for it, and it says that it has 2 PCI x16 slots and an additional PCI x16 slot. Does this mean that I will not be able to go for SLI later on without changing the graphics card? It fills the volume of 3 expansion slots. It only needs one slot on the physical board. What do you actually know about SLI, that makes you want to do it, just out of curiosity? | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
Yes, the memory is fine. The XFX 450w unit I recommended ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207012 ) is less expensive, has a higher build quality, five year warranty as opposed to three, and provides the same amount of power on the 12v rail as the Corsair (the rail that powers the majority of computer components). But if it's brand loyalty than the power supply is fine. @geethy The card is inserted into one PCI-E x16 slot but its heatsink is three slots big so it'll occupy the next two slots, making them inaccessible. You would still be able to do a SLI configuration on the P8P67 Pro with this card as there are two slots inbetween the two PCI-E x16 slots. | ||
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geethy
Australia67 Posts
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On June 19 2011 11:14 geethy wrote: Oh, not much, I don't want to do it at the moment, I was just wondering for later on, because wouldn't it be better to have two cheaper good graphics cards running rather than one expensive one? Almost never. Especially on the games that don't have an SLI profile without making a custom one, and tweaking it for hours just to get the second card to do something. It's also hot as hell, which means noise, more PSU needed, and unless you expect games to triple in max requirements in under 2 years (they won't) you'll be better upgrading to a new single card when you need to. Mind you, I'm running SLI. It's fiddly, unless you like tweaking a LOT, it's a horrid choice. | ||
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geethy
Australia67 Posts
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On June 19 2011 11:24 geethy wrote: Ah, ok, that makes sense. My knowledge in the field is quite minimal, as this is the first computer I am building, and it's a bit annoying searching for these things, as a lot of people just assume it to be common knowledge. Thanks NP. The multi-GPU setup has improved dramatically in recent years, but it's still fiddly, doesn't guarantee a double, or even necesarily close to double framerate, and costs extra in several different ways. | ||
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mav451
United States1596 Posts
On June 19 2011 11:01 manchego wrote: @skyR Thanks for the quick reply! I've made some modifications based on your recommendations. Bumped memory down from 8GB to 4GB because I don't think I need the extra 4 GB yet. Would something like this work? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233132 From 650W to 500W on the PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139027 The other decisions were based mainly on brand loyalty I guess. I had good experiences with both Asus and Antec customer service before and I don't mind forking over a small amount of cash more for that. This is what I'm looking at now then: Case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129042 HDD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136073 GPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130610 Motherboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131705 CPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115072 In addition to the changes I talked about before, plus Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit. How's that? I'd go with the 5000AAKX to ensure you are getting the 500GB/platter model. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136769&cm_re=WD5000AAKX-_-22-136-769-_-Product (Source: http://rml527.blogspot.com/2010/10/hdd-platter-database-western-digital-35.html) | ||
Womwomwom
5930 Posts
On June 19 2011 10:56 Myrland wrote: Hi, I'm looking to buy a new monitor to be used mainly for all kinds of gaming aswell as watching movies. Now, I'm close to clueless on this subject but from what I've found while researching is that these two, Asus VE247H (1790 NOK->~320 USD) and Dell UltraSharp U2311H (1899 NOK->~350 USD), are considered very good choices for their price-range. The U2311H has the e-IPS panel providing a broader viewing angle and generally better picture quality, however the VE247H is using a TN-panel giving it worse quality, but lower latency. Do you feel the higher latency of the U2311H? I've also looked into 120hz screens, which is rumored to have an extremely smooth feeling to them and I found BenQ XL2410T (3490 NOK->~630 USD). My question to you are; is it worth to pay such a premium for the 120hz or should I stick with the cheaper ones? If so, which one? Are there any better choices out there? My requirements would be 23-24 inches. Preferably a 16: 9 aspect ratio, but 16:10 is okay. My budget would max out at around $630, but if it's not worth it to go so high I don't mind a cheaper one. Thank you. No, I don't feel any latency with the U2311H. No one really should to be honest unless you're a professional Quake player, but you might be playing with a CRT instead. You might want to buy straight from Dell since they're having their end of year sale right now. Keep in mind you might hate the anti-glare on the U2311H. Try and find a sample somewhere to determine whether or not you'll be annoyed by it. All 120hz screens are terrible for anything but gaming. Viewing angles are non-existent, often have manufacturing flaws, and picture quality isn't that great. The BenQ XL2410T in particular has quite heavy overshoot (its like a dark shadow trailing behind the image), which is worse than bad input lag/pixel response IMO. I believe the best 120hz monitor is still the Samsung 2333RZ. | ||
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manchego
8 Posts
Wanted to reconsider some of the options that you gave me, and I'm not so focused on brand loyalty. I wanted to float this build by you: https://secure.newegg.com/WishList/MySavedWishDetail.aspx?ID=23864248 Goal of running SC2 at Ultra on 1920x1080 resolution is pretty much my only one. I know your advice is really valued here, so I'm willing to cut as much financial fat from that build as makes sense, regardless of brand. I'd like to keep the Antec case, I just like the way it looks. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
Dammit, always the bridesmaid around here... | ||
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Uhh Negative
United States1090 Posts
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manchego
8 Posts
![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/l2YCJ.png) + Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit | ||
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Kezzer
United States1268 Posts
On June 18 2011 11:05 JingleHell wrote: CPU-Z shows CPU temp. Absolutely do NOT load your CPU again without reseating that fan, Meerkat. Check this video for the bit on installing intel heatsinks. + Show Spoiler + It should say something about how the stupid little plastic things are supposed to go. If you can't get it seated right, get an aftermarket cooler. That's pretty much what I'm forced to do. Those plastic things are so frustrating! I will be welcoming my Cooler Master 212+ with open arms once it comes (other than having to take out the motherboard since my case doesn't have a spot on the backplate. | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On June 19 2011 13:05 Kezzer wrote: That's pretty much what I'm forced to do. Those plastic things are so frustrating! I will be welcoming my Cooler Master 212+ with open arms once it comes (other than having to take out the motherboard since my case doesn't have a spot on the backplate. The stupid plastic things don't survive many reseats anyways in my experience. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
It's a good configuration. Your current processor and motherboard is $330. Get these two in a combo and you'll end up with a better motherboard for the same price: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.660719 http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.660242 You should also just get the less expensive EVGA -AR GTX 560 Ti and do the overclocking yourself: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130604 A regular GTX 560 is also more than capable of Starcraft II on ultra at 1080p: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130660 Only a ten year warranty (promotion ends July 30th) as opposed to lifetime though. | ||
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