EPTComputer Build Resource Thread - Page 1565
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iTzSnypah
United States1738 Posts
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Cyro
United Kingdom20322 Posts
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One Student
73 Posts
What is your budget? No more than 2000 USD, I think my costs would waaaaaaaay cheaper though. Keep in mind I only want to buy the case and its insides (CPU, GPU, RAM, PSU, etc.). I have no need for monitors, keyboards, etc. What is your resolution? 1920x1080 What are you using it for? Mostly gaming on ultra setting, virtual machine development/programming (Linux, Mac, Windows, etc.) and also might get into game capturing. What is your upgrade cycle? I want to push for more than 4+ years I'm a pretty lazy person. When do you plan on building it? If possible this week but I can wait up to a month. Do you plan on overclocking? Nope. Maybe, I haven't considered it yet. Do you need an Operating System? Nope, I'll get that shit sorted out through other means... wink wink. Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire? Yes, but maybe 6 months to a year down the line. Where are you buying your parts from? Local place, I live in the middle east. I also came up with this build so far, wonder what you guys think: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1b8vT CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($249.99 @ Microcenter) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper N520 43.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V PRO ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($196.98 @ Amazon) OR Asus Z87-PRO ATX LGA1150 ($209ish) Memory: Kingston 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($59.99 @ TigerDirect) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 680 4GB Video Card ($522.13 @ TigerDirect) Case: Corsair C70 Gunmetal Black (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($127.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair Professional 750W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($99.99 @ Newegg) Optical Drive: LG GH24NS95 DVD/CD Writer ($15.98 @ Outlet PC) Total: $1303.03 | ||
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Phoobie
Canada120 Posts
On June 28 2013 11:35 Cyro wrote: +1 for this, grab a gtx770 if you want to upgrade further, it's the next logical step up (big increase in GPU strengh, 1536 cores on it instead of 1152 of the 760, faster memory too) I have the Gigabyte Windforce model and it's really really great, but i can't really compare it to others. I picked it out of crowd and it definitely lives up to promise, but it's probably more expensive than some other models if you don't get a deal on it like i did Oh, and somebody please shoot whichever dude was in charge of setting the PC version of Crysis 3 to 55 FOV (literally 55, no shitting is being done here) unless you google the console command to set it to the absolute max of 80 FOV, thanks (: thank you very much to both of you, the gtx 770 is roughly $140 over the 760 which just keeps me in the ~$1300 budget  . Lastly, what are the OC capabilities of this setup? | ||
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Blaec
Australia4289 Posts
On June 28 2013 20:11 One Student wrote:+ Show Spoiler + Hi, I'm looking to build a new computer to replace my 7 year-old one. Here are my answers: What is your budget? No more than 2000 USD, I think my costs would waaaaaaaay cheaper though. Keep in mind I only want to buy the case and its insides (CPU, GPU, RAM, PSU, etc.). I have no need for monitors, keyboards, etc. What is your resolution? 1920x1080 What are you using it for? Mostly gaming on ultra setting, virtual machine development/programming (Linux, Mac, Windows, etc.) and also might get into game capturing. What is your upgrade cycle? I want to push for more than 4+ years I'm a pretty lazy person. When do you plan on building it? If possible this week but I can wait up to a month. Do you plan on overclocking? Nope. Maybe, I haven't considered it yet. Do you need an Operating System? Nope, I'll get that shit sorted out through other means... wink wink. Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire? Yes, but maybe 6 months to a year down the line. Where are you buying your parts from? Local place, I live in the middle east. I also came up with this build so far, wonder what you guys think: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1b8vT CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($249.99 @ Microcenter) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper N520 43.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V PRO ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($196.98 @ Amazon) OR Asus Z87-PRO ATX LGA1150 ($209ish) Memory: Kingston 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($59.99 @ TigerDirect) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 680 4GB Video Card ($522.13 @ TigerDirect) Case: Corsair C70 Gunmetal Black (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($127.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair Professional 750W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($99.99 @ Newegg) Optical Drive: LG GH24NS95 DVD/CD Writer ($15.98 @ Outlet PC) Total: $1303.03 I dunno if your uses need an i7, but if they do then get a current gen i7 (4770k). If you do then you need the z87 mobo. Never heard of your cooler, Im sure someone else will recommend one Afaik there is no reason to get one ram stick, just get 2x4g. Also if you need i7 the software you are using might benefit from more than 8g. The 680 is also previous gen, I think 770 replaces it? | ||
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
On June 28 2013 20:11 One Student wrote:+ Show Spoiler + Hi, I'm looking to build a new computer to replace my 7 year-old one. Here are my answers: What is your budget? No more than 2000 USD, I think my costs would waaaaaaaay cheaper though. Keep in mind I only want to buy the case and its insides (CPU, GPU, RAM, PSU, etc.). I have no need for monitors, keyboards, etc. What is your resolution? 1920x1080 What are you using it for? Mostly gaming on ultra setting, virtual machine development/programming (Linux, Mac, Windows, etc.) and also might get into game capturing. What is your upgrade cycle? I want to push for more than 4+ years I'm a pretty lazy person. When do you plan on building it? If possible this week but I can wait up to a month. Do you plan on overclocking? Nope. Maybe, I haven't considered it yet. Do you need an Operating System? Nope, I'll get that shit sorted out through other means... wink wink. Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire? Yes, but maybe 6 months to a year down the line. Where are you buying your parts from? Local place, I live in the middle east. I also came up with this build so far, wonder what you guys think: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1b8vT CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($249.99 @ Microcenter) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper N520 43.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V PRO ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($196.98 @ Amazon) OR Asus Z87-PRO ATX LGA1150 ($209ish) Memory: Kingston 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($59.99 @ TigerDirect) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 680 4GB Video Card ($522.13 @ TigerDirect) Case: Corsair C70 Gunmetal Black (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($127.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair Professional 750W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($99.99 @ Newegg) Optical Drive: LG GH24NS95 DVD/CD Writer ($15.98 @ Outlet PC) Total: $1303.03 I think you missed a bit of recent news. There are new CPUs: "Haswell" i5-4xxx and i7-4xxx instead of "Ivy Bridge" i5/i7-3xxx. There's a new socket and new boards for those: Z87 chipset instead of Z77. There are new GPUs: GTX 770 should beat GTX 680 at better price. There's also a GTX 780. GTX 760 might be enough for you for 1920x1080. A PC with a single GPU won't ever use more than 300 to 350 W, so you can go for a quality 450 W PSU. For SLI, I think you can go with 650 W. There are tasks where i5 and i7 are equal, and there are some comparably rare tasks where the i7's HyperThreading can do something for performance. The price for the i7-3770k at Microcenter looks interesting, but the i5-4670k might even beat it for most things where i7 has an advantage. There are cheaper boards than what you are looking at. The only interesting thing about it might be the WLAN. The rest, like better audio than normal, you can also get with much cheaper boards. You need to look for a kit with two memory sticks to get "dual channel" mode of the CPU to work. I also heard Haswell can make better use of fast memory, so you might want to hunt for a good deal for memory faster than 1600 MHz. You might want to think a lot about if you really want and need SLI. I don't know much about that, but I think it might not get to stretch its legs without games being rendered on multiple screens or something, won't make sense gaming on a single screen. The price for graphics cards also doesn't drop much over time. They instead get discontinued and replaced with a newer model and those start to double performance of their predecessors after two or three generations (GTX 460 -> 560 -> 660 -> 760, GTX 470 -> 570 -> 670 -> 770, etc.). You won't get a second card cheap in the future unless you buy used. With your budget, overclocking makes a lot of sense. If you overclock a good amount, your overclocked CPU will also compete with the top CPUs from two years in the future, which might be very interesting if you will repeat those seven years without replacing the PC. You might want to look at mATX cases and boards. There are some very compact cases out there which you might find interesting. You can also still go for SLI with mATX if you want, though ATX usually has one extra slot of space between the two graphics cards. That Coolermaster CPU cooler is very old and seems to be very bad judging by a review from 2009. At newegg.com, the Zalman CNPS14x should be a very good choice in a similar price range with rebate. If you want to use more of your budget, there's the Noctua NH-U14S at newegg. | ||
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Shikyo
Finland33997 Posts
+ Show Spoiler + ![[image loading]](http://oi42.tinypic.com/1491fr.jpg) No issues with this, right? RAM is 2400 Mhz CL11. Mostly wondering about the motherboard, is this the best one in the price bracket for overclocking? I don't want to spend too much on a superman motherboard and it seems like none of the review sites know how to overclock / don't perform their tests properly so it's really hard for me to tell. Another thing I'm wondering about is that would Straight Power E9 400W be sufficient for this instead? It's just 8 euros less but that still is something, I guess. Oh and yet another one would be that should I just go ahead and get the Samsung 840 250GB SSD instead for € 121,76? It's far worse but I wonder how much of a difference that makes in practice. | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
You might want the MSI GTX 760 instead of the Gigabyte Windforce: http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/GeForce_GTX_760_TF_Gaming/26.html http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Gigabyte/GeForce_GTX_760_WindForce_OC/26.html Straight Power E9 400 W is enough, but there could be better options. Samsung 840 should be far worse in certain specific benchmarks than Sandisk Extreme II but probably not noticeable in actual usage. I think we're a couple generations past people really noticing the performance differences between different SSDs except in corner cases. | ||
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Shikyo
Finland33997 Posts
www.computeruniverse.net It's the place I pretty much need to order from as my dad will be the one ordering and he has trust issues and he doesn't really trust many places apart from that. We also very simply get the products VATless from there and they have very good customer service. There's quite a bit of lack of variety for GTX 760 on that site, I figured that the Gigabyte one would at least be better than the 2 cheaper ones. | ||
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
Make sure that's a 2x4GB memory kit, not a single 8GB stick. I'd be scared about 400 W, but theory says it will work. The quality PSUs also don't suddenly drop dead when they are run 100 %, can even do more. Gigabyte always seemed to know what they are doing regarding overclocking. There's also an excellent guide in the overclock.net forums. | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20322 Posts
On June 28 2013 20:40 Phoobie wrote: thank you very much to both of you, the gtx 770 is roughly $140 over the 760 which just keeps me in the ~$1300 budget . Lastly, what are the OC capabilities of this setup?~4.5-4.7ghz. Depends on lottery though. Could be higher, could be lower depending on if you get a great chip or an awful one. My windforce 770 if you want numbers for that: Reference 770 runs at 1046MHz base clock with a boost clock of 1085MHz (thermally permitting) and 7ghz VRAM My windforce runs at 1325mhz boost clock 24/7, no problems. 7.8ghz or so VRAM. Not 100% certain of these clocks cause i didn't run OCCT or actually game for an extended period of time for them, but if they're unstable i shouldn't have to fall back much. I looped Unigine Heaven for 4 hours on higher clocks. Fans don't need to pass around half speed to hold it below 70-80c under full load (in unigine and crysis 3), so it's icy cold. It doesn't even draw close to it's power limit (expressed in % of tdp) at these clocks, i didn't see higher than 80% (of the 111% you can set) in crysis 3 or unigine, with it commonly being closer to 60-70% (of 230w? I'm not certain i am reading this correctly) though furmark puts it at power limit and throttles away from the boost clock immediately, that's expected for a synthetic test and i doubt it would happen in real world situation. It's icy cold at idle, too, throttling down clocks and dropping to ~25c or so which is insane. When Shadowplay is released, i'l talk about that a bit too, but it seems to be delayed atm | ||
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LeapofFaith
United States446 Posts
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
On June 29 2013 06:10 LeapofFaith wrote: Any advice for a complete newbie looking to build a computer? Is something like Logical Increments a good starting place? It's often mostly okay. If you follow it too closely, you may end up with something that doesn't really fits your needs and usage, not to mention missing out on currently running deals. If you're purchasing soon, you can try filling out the questionnaire in the first post's first spoiler. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
Logical Increments is okay, good starting point but it's not going to get you the best performance per dollar. You're probably end up wasting money if you follow it to the knee. It puts too much weight on the case and power supply (plus he's a Seasonic fanboy going by the list, Seasonics are often pricier than equivalent offerings from others). | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20322 Posts
Full load on my GPU at max OC with light load on the CPU seems to raise the temp of inside case air by 6-10c or so over time before leveling off (it's hard to say because occt also applies some cpu load.. maybe try with another test and monitor?), i imagine it would be higher as well with max load on cpu and GPU (i'l check at some point) how much can i reduce that by adding a couple fans at front if i can pull that off, maybe adding bottom intake fan (seems like there's a lot of cool air going to under the GPU where its fans are already) or flipping the top 170mm to an intake? Basically the improving airflow talked about before. I'l draw up a pic, but almost all of my intake is getting stuck under the GPU, which is great for the GPU (which at 50% fan speed which is extremely quiet, sits in like the 70's in the most demanding games with max oc..) but not the best for case temps, or i'd imagine CPU temps On another note, OCCT seems to measure my actual vcore, as opposed to CPU-Z which only reads a static value. It was very interesting how well adaptive voltage works for Haswell (manual on gigabyte boards is adaptive) and how clocks behaved even with a reasonable load on the CPU. ![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/FBF7mHd.png) ![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/OEYJugn.png) I'm a lot less worried for longevity now. If the CPU can hold 15-20% load with an average far below 0.5vcore and throwing clocks, volts up fast enough for "adaptive" and downclocking to be invisible in benchmarking, then that's pretty amazing. | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
I mean... come on. At some of the voltages you see there, transistors pretty much are insulators. Just add fans to front and get a marginal improvement. Flipping top to intake (after adding fronts and maybe bottom, especially) seems like a bad idea). | ||
Antoine
United States7481 Posts
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Cyro
United Kingdom20322 Posts
On June 29 2013 08:44 Myrmidon wrote: Nah, that's just OCCT being OCCT and interpreting stuff incorrectly. I don't know if CPU-Z is wrong or not, but I mean... come on. At some of the voltages you see there, transistors pretty much are insulators. Just add fans to front and get a marginal improvement. Flipping top to intake (after adding fronts and maybe bottom, especially) seems like a bad idea). The other volt readings (and the frequency of all cores) seem bang on, and the volts are what i expected for Haswell adaptive. Sin told me it idles at very similar voltages to this specifically, which is why i thought it was accurate (and still do) They seem a bit low for CPU running at 2ghz, but first core (graphed) was clocked up more than others. Maybe it's off - but i think the picture it paints is in general, accurate. The exact numbers? Could be way off, but you see the point with the graph. Haswell can idle at really really low volts, i don't have any multimeter reports on hand but Sin wrote for example "If you enable C3 but disable everything else and leave Turbo on Auto, you can get some insane low volts with really high clocks b/c of the way Haswell Idles" and then posted a pic showing 0.18vcore in cpu-z, i know he used multimeter a lot in general but he didn't post those results in that OC post On June 29 2013 09:01 Antoine wrote: What's your case Cyro? I have the windforce 770 and haswell and I'm considering adding an extra fan to the side vent on my c70 if repasting my CPU doesn't help temps too much (pretty sure I put way too much on since it was my first time). If you look at http://images.anandtech.com/doci/5834/Small (1 of 10) G.jpg , that top square is basically right where my cpu cooler is and then obviously the graphics card is right at the top of the 2nd square. Think a fan going in or out (probably out, right now I have 2 in 1 out) there would help a lot. Xigmatek Utgard + Show Spoiler + ![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/RKJelZs.jpg) Pic with my old GPUIt seems silly to run so much intake, but i thought if top intake was running, instead of the hottest air in the case being around the cpu heatsink (i feel it coming out of top exhaust, warm-hot) it'd have a lot of room temperature air being thrown at it, i think 100% that'd be a better solution with my current set up, but as you said Myrm with 2 intakes from front on CPU if that were possible it would probably be messy to run everything as intake. I can't test it without remounting my silver arrow which is not possible to do alone due to the way things are positioned on the ud3h (too close to the socket.. need somebody to hold the heatsink in place and somebody else to mess around for a minute to get one of the main screws in..) so i'l probably just wait things out a bit, think/discuss for a while and then order 2-4 fans (replace back exhaust, oops, i forgot that it was not running..  that'll help my >10c temperature creep on cpu when everything is loaded) and then do what i can with front, bottom etc | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
But anyway, if it's really going sub-0.4 V or whatever, it's certainly not executing any commands during that period. It has to be completely idle and not executing anything, ramping back up regularly to take care of interrupts and whatever instructions need to be processed. So actually idle. Which I'm kind of surprised it could get to while running OCCT. But maybe I shouldn't have been. That said, while running most programs, CPU is twiddling its thumbs most of the time. Even relatively recently, deep in Intel research labs the experimental near-threshold processors or just logic elements with unique transistor logic redundancy and other tricks to run at low voltages need to operate (meaning, do stuff; idle doesn't count) at really low clocks if you're talking ~0.5 V, never mind 0.1. http://www.realworldtech.com/near-threshold-voltage/2/ | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20322 Posts
In general though, the vcore should be nowhere near 1.35 volts if it's reading as dropping in OCCT. CPU's stable at 4ghz with like 1.0 volts, it wouldn't surprise me to be 0.7 or something. IVR lets it bounce around in some really really tiny latency Oh, I thought Haswell desktop was not supposed to have the active idle states. Or otherwise going to idle that quickly They have the same idle stuff as laptop, c states etc, adaptive voltage (which is really sweet but has questionable behaivour in some cases, like running prime/ibt with avx instructions and voltage set to adaptive is suicide, measured >0.1v overvolt) I'd like to measure my idle power and full load power. My GPU idles at only a bit more than 10% of its active and boosting clocks, and dips down to really low temperatures. 24c right now on lowest fan speed setting - I dont know what my ambients are, but the window and the case are closed  CPU too. At 800mhz and whatever haswell can do with IVR and c-states, i doubt much power is being consumed. My PSU's not the most efficient most probably (it's a tx650* Actually just read up, ~86% efficiency at 50% load which is right about where i'd sit i guess with haswell and 770 at full load, ~325w out on 12v.) I guess that confirms what i thought though, with the fan noise being ~21dba at 325w and ramping up hard after that to ~37dba by 650w, i guess it's not the best idea to run two way SLI on 770's with a high clocked+volted haswell i7 on this aging PSU. I can't remember when i bought it - That's probably not a good sign  My upgrade path is now probably: Lightboost 144hz monitor, second windforce 770 for SLI. If/when i SLI, i'd probably get a new PSU and a crazy good airflow case, cause >500w from two OC'd 770's and OC'd haswell probably takes quite some effort to displace, and also at some point depending on how good they are; I could sell my Haswell CPU for a broadwell on my ud3h (i doubt this will be worth it though..) or for example sell CPU and mobo, buy Skylake. I got CPU and Mobo cheap, so it wouldn't cost me much to do so, but i'm not gonna do it for a 10% performance flip. If we do another i7 920 to sandy bridge jump where 25% performance gain is easy (4.8 high end OC instead of 4.2, a lot better IPC etc in that example, less cooling needed for high OC), i would strongly strongly consider it, i don't know if we will ever get another sandy bridge though Edit: I cut my OC to 4.6. It's just not worth it 24/7 i think - if i wanted to delid then i could go 4.7 or 4.8, depending on how safe volts look 6 months from now - I passed 4.7 IBT 12 mins max RAM at 1.29 or 1.295vcore and thought hey, this'll work well - I'm still failing at 1.345vcore. It was just in x264 before, but got a CPU bluescreen in crysis 3 and that's the final straw i think. None of the stress tests pinning CPU at 100% showed anything, i passed 12 hours prime on 1.32vcore but damn, the stuff that uses CPU (crysis 3 some cores at highish load, never max load all threads, x264, average 90-95ish load but crashing with a lot less while streaming on intense settings, say 70% average core load) is a killer. I didn't experience this at all with other CPU's, my 950 could stream at intensive settings on less volts than it needed to prime. I don't know why Haswell on a ud3h is different (i won't overgeneralize) but it seems to be. I should be able to cut 0.06 or so volts with my 100mhz drop which puts me much more into comfortable territory. Crysis 3 leveled off on my curve at 65% fan speed which prevented the GPU at full load from hitting 75c closed case* (how ridiculous is that) my CPU peaked at 80c on hottest core, floating in the 60's i think, with max GPU load and high CPU load (i lowered a shader setting which gave me a massive boost to FPS, probably loading the CPU more as a result of more FPS being thrown out - i was too into the game to check) and my exhaust is pretty hot which is a bit worrying, a lot hotter than i have felt it before but temps seemed to stabilize. If i get some more intake sorted out (il draw a pic, almost all of my intake is blocked in the bottom part of the case with setup like this) and replace my secondary exhaust and just do the fan stuff talked about it should level off at quite significantly lower temps. With exhaust air this hot i think i'l be able to get 5c or more out if i can get a good airflow setup. Right now my airflow is "ok-ish" which is probably suboptimal for max oc'd 770 (not much of an oc allowed at stock volts, but it's something) and i think even just having the second exhaust would improve things a lot, it's toasty in there *I could totally adjust fan curve so that it lets the GPU go hotter than 74c before ramping up to 60-65% to stop it from going higher - but it's not loud at all, it's not enough to even break my immersion in game under sustained full load locked in a case with a CPU pulling 150 watts and a single intake fan (which was turned down to like half speed OOPS) I should write more randomly about performance and overclocking, a lot of stupid errors occur to me where they wouldn't otherwise. Yea Cyro it helps to have fans on. Flood warning (: I think it's good discussion and will be helpful/informative to some people | ||
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