EPTComputer Build Resource Thread - Page 1449
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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. | ||
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wei2coolman
United States60033 Posts
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
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wei2coolman
United States60033 Posts
On April 09 2013 08:32 Belial88 wrote: It'd help if you told us your case but you should be able to route it behind the motherboard panel and have it come from 'above' the board. It's up to you whether you want to fit the cable underneath the VRM heatsink on the left side of the VRMs (the cable is rated for high temps, it'll be fine and even with extreme overclock voltages your VRM will stay cool) or on the right under your heatsink tower. I guess the issue I have with it right now, is that the cable isn't quite long enough to route from behind the mobopanel, and through the top. So I have ugly ass cable randomly in the front. Oh well; hopefully with my new case it won't be an issue; otherwise I'm gunna have to do a cable extension; what a pain. | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
Cable extensions aren't bad at all, I don't know why you are so down about that. The best extensions to buy are the pre-sleeved rosewill extensions on newegg, they sell them at huge discounts, as in, they are the cheapest extensions anywhere (ebay, used, amazon, etc), and by cheapest I mean even cheaper than non-sleeved extensions due to free shipping and the sale discounts newegg has on them. They are also pretty high quality, I've played with a lot of extensions for sleeving and I can tell you that the rosewill extensions have been the sturdiest and easiest to work with. It's the perfect opportunity for you to sleeve your cables! It's a huge pain in the ass to have to take off your heatsink, reapply thermal paste, and retighten all the cables, if you decide to sleeve your cables at a later date. You should buy a custom pre-sleeved cable (on ebay there's a very, very good seller that charges like only $7 for a pre-sleeved paracord CPU extension which is very very reasonable, that's cheaper than the parts basically). Worst case scenario, you paid like $4 more, best case scenario you saved yourself a lot of time and effort! I suppose that's all redundant since the newegg cable is pre-sleeved though lol. Depends on how anal you are I guess (ie sleeve in blue and dont care that the cpu cable you can't see under the heatsink is black, or sleeve in red paracord and then just have the extension in plastic red sleeving, or maybe even sleeve cables the same as the newegg extension is sleeved). i probably typed way more than you bargained for. | ||
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Gumbi
Ireland463 Posts
 My mobo has been RMAed, and I used the opportunity to exploit free shipping on return to get some fans. I've been having gone side of my case open for the longest time, but now that I've learned how to properly cable manage (lol), I intend to seal it up and add some fans.Here is my current setup. This is my case: NZXT Gamma Tower. I have a 7950 950mhz ed. and a 3570k with a hyper 212+ on it (overclocked to 4.6ghz). I am using the stock hyper 212 fan and the stock case fan (which I accidentally broke, one of the reasons I'm going to buy some new fans). I have a cheapo fan that's currently unused, the 120mm version of this: http://www.hardwareversand.de/80mm/10324/Xilence Power Gehäuselüfter 8cm.article I imagine if I'm willing to buy some fans it's hardly worth holding on to something I bought for €2.18 is it? I am buying from HWVS. I was recommended Bitfenix Spectre 120mm. Or, if I preferred a cheaper option, to buy some Arctic Cooling Arctic F12 and to manually control them for quieter speeds. So here's where I need help. I currently have 2 fans, the stock CM one on the 212, a cheapo fan I've never used and a broken case fan. Should I buy several fans for better airflow through the case? I know they'll help for overclocking, which I most certainly intend to do. Which fans would most suit my build balance-wise? How many should I get? How many should I set up? Should I replace or keep the stock Hyper 212 one (as in, is it worth using a different fan?). Thanks as always, hopefully my questions were outlined clearly | ||
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mav451
United States1596 Posts
You're talking about this right: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119482 ($7 shipped). It does look rather nice in black. I figure the 8pin location isn't going to be changing anytime soon either (top left of mobo). @Gumbi - I think it comes down to two major factors. 1) How much do you care about noise 2) How much are you willing to pay | ||
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Gumbi
Ireland463 Posts
On April 09 2013 09:12 mav451 wrote: @Gumbi - I think it comes down to two major factors. 1) How much do you care about noise 2) How much are you willing to pay I don'y know really, I think the loudest part of my PC at the moment is my PSU (Super Flower 650watt), though I'm not sure. Obviously this is something I can't address directly. I am willing to pay 20 or 30 euro for some good fans I suppose. A price that's balanced enough relative to the cost of my build/case. | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
If you're not particularly upset by the sound the stock Hyper 212 fan makes, it's fine. The stock Blademaster is reasonable, just tuned for performance rather than acoustic profile. NZXT Gamma is full of holes, so adding fans wouldn't help an incredibly huge amount. There are diminishing returns on more fans, and more airflow means more dust anyway, unless you're controlling for that. I guess a typical / decent layout would be rear, top, and side. That's a pretty low price on Arctic Cooling F12. Those aren't great, but they're not bad. For something that cheap, good. (not actually fluid dynamic bearing though) also I think they come in minimal package, not-so-long 3-pin connection only so you may need a controller, splitter, or something else to run them all if you get more than your mobo can handle Depends a lot on how much 1-3C type of differences mean to you, what your tolerances for noise levels and profile are, etc. edit: okay yeah 20-30 euros is not huge so what I wrote probably stands. You're probably not going to load up on top stuff like Be Quiet Silent Wings 2 or some of the newer Noctuas at 15+ euros a pop. | ||
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wei2coolman
United States60033 Posts
On April 09 2013 08:53 Belial88 wrote: So basically you were hoping we'd give you a different answer to a question you already knew the answer to lol. Sorry man ;/ Cable extensions aren't bad at all, I don't know why you are so down about that. The best extensions to buy are the pre-sleeved rosewill extensions on newegg, they sell them at huge discounts, as in, they are the cheapest extensions anywhere (ebay, used, amazon, etc), and by cheapest I mean even cheaper than non-sleeved extensions due to free shipping and the sale discounts newegg has on them. They are also pretty high quality, I've played with a lot of extensions for sleeving and I can tell you that the rosewill extensions have been the sturdiest and easiest to work with. It's the perfect opportunity for you to sleeve your cables! It's a huge pain in the ass to have to take off your heatsink, reapply thermal paste, and retighten all the cables, if you decide to sleeve your cables at a later date. You should buy a custom pre-sleeved cable (on ebay there's a very, very good seller that charges like only $7 for a pre-sleeved paracord CPU extension which is very very reasonable, that's cheaper than the parts basically). Worst case scenario, you paid like $4 more, best case scenario you saved yourself a lot of time and effort! I suppose that's all redundant since the newegg cable is pre-sleeved though lol. Depends on how anal you are I guess (ie sleeve in blue and dont care that the cpu cable you can't see under the heatsink is black, or sleeve in red paracord and then just have the extension in plastic red sleeving, or maybe even sleeve cables the same as the newegg extension is sleeved). i probably typed way more than you bargained for. Just $$$; that's all. Thanks for the tip about rosewill extensions. Will definitely look into them. | ||
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mav451
United States1596 Posts
Next step is establishing a base line. What are you current ambient temps, idle case/mobo/CPU/GPU temps? And quantify the amount of improvement you want to see. For general case fans, and looking at that website, I would recommend the Slip Streams: http://www.hardwareversand.de/120mm/30979/Scythe Slip Stream 120 mm Lüfter, 1200rpm.article http://www.hardwareversand.de/120mm/30978/Scythe Slip Stream 120 mm PWM fan.article I'd recommend the 1200RPM, M-model so you still have some leeway in 7-volting it. | ||
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Gumbi
Ireland463 Posts
On April 09 2013 09:19 Myrmidon wrote: BitFenix's fans are pretty unremarkable, though the Spectre is supposed to be better than the Spectre Pro. If you're not particularly upset by the sound the stock Hyper 212 fan makes, it's fine. The stock Blademaster is reasonable, just tuned for performance rather than acoustic profile. NZXT Gamma is full of holes, so adding fans wouldn't help an incredibly huge amount. There are diminishing returns on more fans, and more airflow means more dust anyway, unless you're controlling for that. I guess a typical / decent layout would be rear, top, and side. That's a pretty low price on Arctic Cooling F12. Those aren't great, but they're not bad. For something that cheap, good. (not actually fluid dynamic bearing though) Depends a lot on how much 1-3C type of differences mean to you, what your tolerances for noise levels and profile are, etc. I think in one respect, a fan blowing air across the back of my 7950 would help temps quite a bit (not that they're an issue really). Regarding noise, I don't mind too much. I dealt with a grinding noise from my 7950 for 6 months until I finally realised that it was the end sagging that caused this issue (it was only audible at 45% plus fans which wasn't often on stock clocks, but I do want to game @ 1200mhz cos I have a pretty sweet card and I want to exploit that OC). But obviously it's not worth spending too much on a performance difference that might be minimal. I have my 3570k at 4.6ghz comfortably already. Hmm. Such a subjective buy haha. Someone told me that the Arctic Coolings fans are OK choices for their price, and are quiet enough as long as you manually turn them down. At the price, I can't go wrong (I can buy 4 for less than 12 quid), so I think I'll get them and see what happens. You said the CM fan was reasonable. The Arctic one wouldn't be any better? Thanks for all your help, I appreciate it so much | ||
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mav451
United States1596 Posts
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article63-page2.html It's your required reading for the night haha. | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
Slip streams are relatively fragile (some die or develop problems relatively early), sleeve-bearing types, though performance and noise are pretty good. You can open them up for maintenance (oiling), yeah. Particularly if you're not that bothered by a sometimes-not-that-great tonality of sound, might as well just try a bunch of Arctic F12s and use many of them at low speeds, maybe even just toss out (keep in closet) any that are worse than the others. So maybe you should buy more than you'd use. | ||
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mav451
United States1596 Posts
On April 09 2013 11:06 Myrmidon wrote: Problem is that SPCR only recommends fans they've tested, or variants of those. They haven't looked at a whole bunch of stuff out there. Anything in particular that SPCR has missed? *And that meets or exceeds their current Recommended fans obviously :p | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
Also, if you're looking at price point as well as performance—otherwise not much reason to look at Antec TrueQuiet—then there should probably be a lot more. | ||
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mav451
United States1596 Posts
 So you can already discount a focus on a pressure model, unless we want him to spend additional euros for his CPU fan. But with his limited fan budget, he can't really afford top-tier CPU fans anyway. His main question really was upgrading his case fans, which is why I wanted to understand his current cooling situation in the first place. Now I run Noctuas and SFlexE's in my own box...but I have no problem spending more for additional pressure/CFM per dba, with the caveat b/c I can afford it. He only wanted to spend 20-30 euro, and with that in mind, I thought getting a set of 3 or 4 SlipStreams (7v) would provide sufficient case flow, if that's what he needed. Maybe he only needs an additional intake/exhaust, but we just don't know since he hasn't responded. And yeah, SPCR has mentioned the Antec's as budget options simply b/c they're more common...they just don't provide much CFM/dba once they're slowed down. | ||
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Craton
United States17281 Posts
U2713HM also on sale + promo for $585. | ||
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SnowSC2
United States678 Posts
So basically, I want to use the PC for streaming/playing games. I'd like to put a titan in and have a nice cpu that I can oc and will be relevant for as long as possible. No budget Limit. My monitors are an ASUS VG248 (144hz) and a Dell U2312HM I have a bitfenix shinobi XL that I'd like to build into. I know I'd like to put a titan in, so that covers case and gpu. It's the rest I'm not sure of. I'm clueless when shopping for motherboards but I doubt I'll need to run dual gpu's. I'd like to have a good cooler that's quiet. And a nice SSD. | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20326 Posts
Basically, with an Ivy you probably have 4.7ghz on high end air, with Haswell you're talking like 7% faster at the same clock speed and POTENTIALLY something like 5.2ghz, this is VERY uncertain though. | ||
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ScrApeD
Hungary9 Posts
i'd like to ask you for helping me. I've decided, that i will build a new desktop PC for SC2. My first goal is with this new build is to MAX OUT SC2 (WoL, HotS and even LotV in the future), with playable (+60) FPS. I'd like to build this PC: i5 3570k 3,4 Ghz GTX 660 2Gb (not Ti) 4 GB RAM What are you saying? Can i max out SC2 whit this rig? Thx, scraped | ||
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