|
When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. |
On December 23 2012 19:09 Womwomwom wrote:
Belial88, are you quoting an actual max vcore or are you reading the last value from the VID table? I'm not going to dig through the documentation, since I can't find on an smartphone, but as I said, I am certain that from Sandy Bridge onwards, Intel has never specified the max Vcc in the Processor Absolute Minimums and Maximums section. I don't even think the Processor Absolute section even exists anymore.
If you are getting the values from the VID table, Myrmidon is right to be condescending, if he actually is. They even explain what the VID table is for and how its completely unrelated to safe operating voltages and overclocking.
And everyone has really explained why the i5 3570k doesn't really draw 150W by itself when overclocked. Do we need to explain again why all of those links your posted of so-called 150W+ power draw doesn't actually suggest that the processor itself is drawing 150W?
i think your right, the page i pulled doesnt mean shit.
Regardless, 1.35-1.4 has been commonly accepted as the max 24/7 voltage for the i5. I brought up 1.55 simply to make a point, after saying a million times that 1.35-1.4 is a commonly quoted max safe voltage, and that 1.3 is more than safe. It is absurd to think that 1.3 is dangerous at all.
The guy does not need to find a 24/7 stable overclock, or test prime95. Which is why he can, very simply, fire and forget at 4.8ghz@1.3v, which is a little higher than the standard 24 hour prime tested overclock for i5 but should be stable enough just for gaming, as long as he makes sure his temps stay reasonable, which they should on the 620.
I dont care to get into power draw of the i5, my point was that using a 150w thermal plate is a terrible way to simulate an overclocked CPU. An thermal plate with 150w spread evenly on a large hot plate, is nothing like a CPU's heat, which is heat given off a just the die in the middle of the IHS, not even the entire IHS.
Also, the power draw of an i7 and phenom and fx is going to go way above 150w. You dont pick a heatsink based on it's performance on stock load, you pick a heatsink based on how it performs under the most heat. It's absurd that frozencpu was saying one heatsink is better than another simply because of how it performs under a different heatplate, heatsinks are going to be X good at dissipating heat, the assassin isn't goign to simply be a worse heatsink than the hyper 212 evo simply because it's on an intel chip instead of AMD.
The whole core of that argument was jinglehell quoting a benchmark saying the assassin was a bad cooler, the same benchmark showing the hyper 212 evo better than the silver arrow, so you know it's obviously a joke. I linked a million threads showing everyone thinks frozencpu is a joke.
|
On December 23 2012 19:15 Belial88 wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Get the cx430 from newegg for $25. http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=P8P67-LE-PB-R&cat=MBB $49 Similar quality motherboard, almost 1/3rd the price. Any particular reason you need 8gb of ram instead of 4? I know it's only 20 in price difference, but that $20 in price difference means a MUCH cooler looking case, 1-2 very high quality fans that are ultraquiet (throw out your shitty stock fans), a better PSU (hey, now you have the option for SLI if you ever wanted to). Hell you could just get better quality RAM like the Corsair Vengeance. Just pull up task manager and see if you ever go above 3.5gb. im assuming haruharu has a case and heatsink already picked out.
Was it really necessary to give your terrible advice twice?
The CX430 is not $25, it's $45 from Newegg.
P67 does not support Ivybridge natively. And a P8P67 LE does not support SLI.
|
5930 Posts
He's talking about the rebate card obviously, if we take into account the rebate card it does cost around $26.
Edit:
I don't even know what the fuck hot plates have to do with your claim that the i5 3570k's max power draw is 150W+. That still doesn't disprove the fact that the i5 3570k doesn't actually really draw 150W all by itself. The highest I've really seen was from Bit Tech, which was like 260W for the system from the wall, and they were pushing 5ghz@1.4V with a GTX590, a 1500W PSU or something obscene (so awful, awful power efficiency), and a whole bunch of other shit like an mATX board.
Has anyone actually done power consumption measurements without using a Kill-A-Watt device?
|
On December 23 2012 19:21 skyR wrote:Show nested quote +On December 23 2012 19:15 Belial88 wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Get the cx430 from newegg for $25. http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=P8P67-LE-PB-R&cat=MBB $49 Similar quality motherboard, almost 1/3rd the price. Any particular reason you need 8gb of ram instead of 4? I know it's only 20 in price difference, but that $20 in price difference means a MUCH cooler looking case, 1-2 very high quality fans that are ultraquiet (throw out your shitty stock fans), a better PSU (hey, now you have the option for SLI if you ever wanted to). Hell you could just get better quality RAM like the Corsair Vengeance. Just pull up task manager and see if you ever go above 3.5gb. im assuming haruharu has a case and heatsink already picked out. Was it really necessary to give your terrible advice twice? The CX430 is not $25, it's $45 from Newegg. P67 does not support Ivybridge natively. And a P8P67 LE does not support SLI.
http://event.asus.com/2011/mb/PCIe3_Ready/
Please don't give out misinformation. I also said nothing about motherboard compatibility with sli.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139026
$25.99 after $20.00 rebate car
OP has not said he has any aversion to rebates.
|
5930 Posts
We're fucking splitting hairs here but that's not native support. That's support after a BIOS update.
|
Well that's only if you have an older gen board. It would depend what board revision you bought specifically, but many sites list the generation in stock and you could always ask them.
also on some motherboards you can flash new bios without any cpu.
|
Sorry but what does PCIe3 Ready have to do with SLI support? P8P67 LE does not support it, it's that fucking simple.
Only GEN3 features the updated BIOS. P8P67 LE does not have a GEN3 variant.
Yes, you can flash the BIOS without a CPU on certain boards. P8P67 LE and the older low-end boards does not include this feature lol.
Tigerdirect also has the $20 mail in rebate, yet you go on to mention how terrible '$49' is... HaruHaru has also not mentioned why he's buying from Tigerdirect instead of Newegg so one would assume that he's in a state where Newegg charges sales tax and Tigerdirect does not.
|
Got 990FXA-UD3, FX-8120 and GTX 660
my TMPIN2 is at 70 C when streaming and CPU goes to 65-70 C
any tips what fan I should get for CPU?
|
5930 Posts
I don't know how Asus manufactures things but the Rec 3.0/B3 (I assume you're talking about this) was like a 2011 release. The BIOS update for Ivy Bridge (3602) was released to the consumer during April this year.
As I said, I don't know how Asus manufactures motherboards like the P8P67 LE but I wouldn't expect them to be pumping them out in volume with Ivy Bridge in the wild. Do any of them even come with BIOS 3602?
|
Just go for a p67 gen3 sabertooth with unquestionable ib support, cheaper than z68
|
There is no such thing as a P67 Sabertooth GEN3 fyi....
|
Hey guys I finally saved up enough money for a new computer and I'd like some input on the specs and if I can get more cost effective somewhere or better parts that are more worthwhile.
First of all,the idea is to have longevity with this build,the only thing that I would consider upgrading in the future is the gpu and more ram I guess.
Budget: 550$
Motherboard:AsRock P67 PRO3
CPU:Core i3 2120
GPU:HD 6670
PSU:ATX 2.0 550W
RAM:DDR3 4GB 1333MHz,CL9
Mouse:Kinzu
This currently sets me under my budget so if you think I'm better off getting a more expensive part somewhere,I'm open to suggestions.
|
On December 23 2012 22:15 TheKefka wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Hey guys I finally saved up enough money for a new computer and I'd like some input on the specs and if I can get more cost effective somewhere or better parts that are more worthwhile.
First of all,the idea is to have longevity with this build,the only thing that I would consider upgrading in the future is the gpu and more ram I guess.
Budget: 550$
Motherboard:AsRock P67 PRO3
CPU:Core i3 2120
GPU:HD 6670
PSU:ATX 2.0 550W
RAM:DDR3 4GB 1333MHz,CL9
Mouse:Kinzu
This currently sets me under my budget so if you think I'm better off getting a more expensive part that I'm open to suggestions.
Get a H61, H67, B75, or H77 board instead of a P67.
550w doesn't tell us anything about the PSU. A quality 400w unit like a Corsair CX400 / CX430, Antec Neo Eco 400C, Earthwatts 380D, and Seasonic would be more than fine for a low-end build.
You might want to get a better GPU with the saved / excess money.
|
5930 Posts
Please follow the guidelines in the OP (its the first spoiler tag). If you do not answer the OP completely, it is very difficult to know where your budget should go. For instance, if you do not specify your resolution and/or refresh rate, it is impossible to recommend a GPU in good faith.
Edit:
But yes, the above advice does stand. If we are to assume that you're playing a wide range of modern games and at a resolution of 1920x1080, you probably want to find ways to cut costs (motherboard is the obvious one here) and put more of your budget into the GPU if possible.
|
Ah sorry,the resolution is 1280x1024 and no I'm not playing a wide range of modern games,I play dota2,stacraft and LoL here and there ,that's the reason I was trying to cut costs on the GPU.
All I want is a decent build that will last a while(if I decide to grab a newer game sometimes),something that I can stream with as well maybe.
tnx for the advice~~<3
|
United Kingdom20332 Posts
On December 23 2012 00:42 Medrea wrote:Show nested quote +On December 22 2012 16:37 Belial88 wrote:
Good luck hitting even 4.5 on 1.1v, no one at OCN has ever reached that high an overclock on the 3570k on that low voltage either. ![[image loading]](https://dl.dropbox.com/u/34863088/vcore.jpg) Also this was what I was sourcing. http://www.anandtech.com/show/5763/undervolting-and-overclocking-on-ivy-bridgeShow nested quote + Those wishing for 4.8GHz at 1.4 volts (similar to Sandy Bridge) will run into a lot of issues if they think that 1.4 volts is appropriate for Ivy Bridge. In comparison, you may end up with something more reasonable like 4.6GHz at 1.1 volts, or 4.8GHz at 1.2 volts (as per some boards I have tested). Then it will be a case of deciding whether the small IPC gains that Ivy brings will be worth 200 MHz less on your CPU compared to Sandy Bridge. Im sure its just good values coming from a cherry picked review piece. But my sentiment remains the same. Overvolting is special to overclocking. Its paramount to find the lowest voltage you possibly can while remaining stable. And IB has issues once we get to 4.5 or 4.6 since it seems that the thermals start running away. Also 1.55v is really super high lol. Thats crazy. We generally want parts to last years. Those really high voltages might be stable at birth, but after some time there will be problems and youll be forced to clock it back down, even below where you could have been if you didnt try to attack the curve. Just dont go above 4.5ghz. IB's problems really start to ramp up there. Either way, on TL we dont recommend upping voltage to anyone. Because the next thing that happens is we get a thread where someone confused vcore with voltage stepping and ended up pushing voltage past 2.0v, ripping the chip apart, and then it kinda looks bad on us as well. If someone has to ask us for advice on voltage, they aren't qualified to actually do it anyway.
Just wanted to add that i needed about 1.08v to get 4.2ghz stable on 3770k. 1.13-1.15 for 4.4.
If you are concerned with temps at all its not even worth going to 1.1v because you'll peak into the 80's unless you have at the very least a mid-level air cooler and some case fans. Cant help but think i must have done something wrong to get those temps, but ive seen others on similar if you dont have high end cooling.
|
On December 23 2012 18:46 Belial88 wrote:Show nested quote +On December 23 2012 00:42 Medrea wrote:On December 22 2012 16:37 Belial88 wrote:
Good luck hitting even 4.5 on 1.1v, no one at OCN has ever reached that high an overclock on the 3570k on that low voltage either. Also this was what I was sourcing. http://www.anandtech.com/show/5763/undervolting-and-overclocking-on-ivy-bridge Those wishing for 4.8GHz at 1.4 volts (similar to Sandy Bridge) will run into a lot of issues if they think that 1.4 volts is appropriate for Ivy Bridge. In comparison, you may end up with something more reasonable like 4.6GHz at 1.1 volts, or 4.8GHz at 1.2 volts (as per some boards I have tested). Then it will be a case of deciding whether the small IPC gains that Ivy brings will be worth 200 MHz less on your CPU compared to Sandy Bridge. Im sure its just good values coming from a cherry picked review piece. But my sentiment remains the same. Overvolting is special to overclocking. Its paramount to find the lowest voltage you possibly can while remaining stable. And IB has issues once we get to 4.5 or 4.6 since it seems that the thermals start running away. Also 1.55v is really super high lol. Thats crazy. We generally want parts to last years. Those really high voltages might be stable at birth, but after some time there will be problems and youll be forced to clock it back down, even below where you could have been if you didnt try to attack the curve. Just dont go above 4.5ghz. IB's problems really start to ramp up there. Either way, on TL we dont recommend upping voltage to anyone. Because the next thing that happens is we get a thread where someone confused vcore with voltage stepping and ended up pushing voltage past 2.0v, ripping the chip apart, and then it kinda looks bad on us as well. If someone has to ask us for advice on voltage, they aren't qualified to actually do it anyway. You can do anything if your not going to test it's stability. There's a world of difference in stable, meaning 24 hour prime95 custom blend max ram used test, and just being able to boot.
Its listed as 20 hrs....
You really want to argue about 4 hours?
|
Woah, wom is a banling now? :O
Also, if I'm not mistaken, doesn't P67LE have really gimped voltage control? My friend has one (or something close to it) and I think the only voltage adjusting he can do is an offset, or something like that.
|
On December 24 2012 02:22 Alryk wrote:
Woah, wom is a banling now? :O
Also, if I'm not mistaken, doesn't P67LE have really gimped voltage control? My friend has one (or something close to it) and I think the only voltage adjusting he can do is an offset, or something like that.
I'm fairly sure it does, as best I can recall from discussions from like a year ago lol. Nobody buys p67 anymore these days...
|
Hi guys, first of all I don't have easy access to quality products for a fair price around here, the whole thing will cost around 1500$ which I'm sure could get me something a lot better in the US, but this is the best I can get.
My gaming resolution has been 1280x720p for ages, I will use this pretty much just for gaming (sc2, dota2, don't really care much for other games) and I do not plan on overclocking it, unless I feel it's necessary.
processor : I7 3820 3.80GHZ 10MB
memory : 2 4GB DDR3 1333 - MARKVISION
HD : 1TB SATA III 7200RPM 32MB ST31000524AS - SEAGATE
videocard : PCIEXP 2GB 128-BIT DDR3 GTS450 ZOGTS450-2GBD3H - ZOGIS
power supply : 600W REAL BRP600- SENTEY
motherboard : 1155 GA-B75M-D3H DDR3 HDMI USB 3.0 (S/V/R) - GIGABYTE
How well will it work together? If it can be improved, which parts should be upgraded or downgraded according to my needs? Thanks in advance!
|
|
|
|
|
|
EPT
