|
When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. |
On May 11 2012 04:23 Wabbit wrote:+ Show Spoiler +On May 11 2012 04:10 TheMooseHeed wrote:
Ok so I finally got my computer built. Big thaks to everyone who helped me I am very grateful.
Going to overclock it later. Just wanted to check a few things. I am altering the base mutiplier from 3.3 to 4.5. Do I need to alter voltages to keep them below 1.5 or will it do this automatically? Is there something else I need to do other then that. I will nerd it now and see if I can find out but help would be appriciated. If you just change the multiplier and leave voltages on auto, you'll have to monitor them with programs such as HWMonitor and CPU-Z. Note that this may or may not be a stable overclock. Above a certain point, only manual voltages and other tweaks will keep a chip stable, but 45 might be okay. Either run like 20 passes of IBT/LinX followed by a long session of Prime95, or just use the PC (this only gives you a low degree of certainty though, even if you use it for a few weeks). You'll know if it's unstable when you crash  The voltage will depend on the quality of your motherboard as well as on the luck of the draw on the quality of the CPU. If your motherboard has an "offset" voltage option, you may be able to use a negative voltage offset if you find it's stable with less voltage than what the automatic setting gives under load. This requires stress testing of course. And you want to find the lowest possible stable voltages for the purposes of reduced heat/power draw and possibly extended CPU lifespan. 1.5 is very high. I'd stay under 1.4 personally for 24/7 operation.
That sounds awefully complicated. Hopefully I will understand it better when I have read more on it.
So far I am thinking I should set a max voltage and slowly up the multiplier, testing the stability with furmark? Maybe around 1.35 then to be safe. I am not looking for an insanely high overclock. I would be happy with around 4ghz
|
I wouldn't set more than 4.2 GHz or so if you're going to be leaving some settings automatically. Around 4.5 GHz, they may be putting in too much voltage for long-term usage unless you set something manually lower (and verify it works okay).
edit: btw you're overclocking the CPU. FurMark is a GPU testing tool.
|
Furmark tests your GPU, not CPU. Although it does put some load on your CPU, it's not IBT or Prime95.
Try this: Enter your BIOS screen, change your CPU multiplier to 40. Your voltage is probably already set to auto, so just double check that.
Download HardwareMonitor (HWMonitor) and Prime95 or Intel Burn Test. Run the "Blend" test in prime95 and watch temperatures in HWMonitor. You want to check the core temperatures. If they're at or below 70c, you're perfectly fine.
You can overclock a little better with manual voltages (so you don't overshoot and end up using 1.4v auto when you only need 1.3v) which will lower temperatures. You can also probably hit 4.5ghz with around 1.35v.
|
I already have speed fan. Would that be sufficient? I will download that other and see what I get thanks 
|
Speedfan sucks so it would be in your best interest to download something that isn't shit like HW Monitor.
|
Oh. Ok thanks for the advice I will get right on it
|
Hello, got a $1200 budget for a new rig. So aside from a new keyboard, monitor, and a copy of Skyrim, will these parts work out? Or are there better recommendations? I'm buying all the parts off Amazon Prime btw since I don't want to pay taxes and shipping on Newegg.
![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/Mpf9B.jpg)
![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/QO5Lf.jpg)
![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/mBMUP.jpg)
|
Coolermaster Extreme Power Plus sucks. Get an Earthwatts 380D / 430D or Corsair CX430v2 instead.
H67 is overpriced, you might as well get a H77 or Z77 at the $100 price point.
Memory is overpriced. H67 is also only capable of 1333MHz so there's no reason to waste money on 1600MHz.
DVD burner is overpriced.
|
Ok so after doing the testing you suggested I got these results
![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/nfkAA.png)
I tested on max stress settings and it seemed to be stable at 4ghz. The max temp reached was 71 for the cpu with a max vcore of 1.39. That seems good to me or am I missing something?
|
On May 11 2012 06:05 skyR wrote:
Coolermaster Extreme Power Plus sucks. Get an Earthwatts 380D / 430D or Corsair CX430v2 instead.
H67 is overpriced, you might as well get a H77 or Z77 at the $100 price point.
Memory is overpriced. H67 is also only capable of 1333MHz so there's no reason to waste money on 1600MHz.
DVD burner is overpriced.
Thanks for the feedback, sort of
Would the
Gigabyte Intel H77 LGA1155 AMD CrossFireX HDMI/DVI Dual UEFI BIOS mATX Motherboard GA-H77M-D3H
work for the mobo?
EDIT: What do you recommend for DVD burner, and will the H77 mobo help the memory reach 1600MHz?
|
|
|
|
|
The Acer monitor is the same size as the Asus you recommended but $30 cheaper so I'm fine with that (unless there's an HDMI port for that Asus monitor and that the Acer will increase overtime)
I know the K120 is meh, but I'm not really looking for anything fancy atm.
I don't plan on overclocking so it's no biggie for cooling systems.
Any recommendations for speakers? My parents have these speakers and having experience using them, didn't disappoint me.
Thanks for the feedback
|
The Asus should have much better picture quality. It's this (but with the overdrive controls active, as mentioned):
http://www.prad.de/en/monitore/review/2012/review-asus-vs229h.html
I didn't mention cooling btw? Just checking.
For speakers, there's not too much available from Amazon with Prime. Anyway, I'd trust cheapy studio monitors over most Bose or "multimedia" speakers in that price range. You're not going to get anything super amazing for $100 anyhow. Since you weren't looking at something with a sub, maybe Behringer MS16 (just because it's available on Prime)?
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-MS16-Recording-Studio-Equipment/dp/B00181T20O/
edit: to be clear, the cheap studio monitors are pretty cost-cut barebones Chinese knockoff stuff too (even the ones from "real" brands)...that's fine for many purposes, but set expectations accordingly
Look around. I haven't tried the above, sorry.
|
On May 11 2012 06:45 Myrmidon wrote:The Asus should have much better picture quality. It's this (but with the overdrive controls active, as mentioned): http://www.prad.de/en/monitore/review/2012/review-asus-vs229h.htmlI didn't mention cooling btw? Just checking. For speakers, there's not too much available from Amazon with Prime. Anyway, I'd trust cheapy studio monitors over most Bose or "multimedia" speakers in that price range. You're not going to get anything super amazing for $100 anyhow. Since you weren't looking at something with a sub, maybe Behringer MS16 (just because it's available on Prime)? http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-MS16-Recording-Studio-Equipment/dp/B00181T20O/Look around. I haven't tried the above, sorry.
Yeah I'll lean towards getting the Asus because of those features and that it has an HDMI input
No I didn't mention cooling so it's all good.
For the speakers, I changed to Creative Gigaworks T40
Thanks for the feedback!
|
ok so now I'm finally ordering my "fanless" build... A bit expensive though, I had some gigantic issues choosing graphics card (I wanted a 7850 but it wouldn't fit, the 670 is so overpriced  ).
KFA2 GeForce GTX 670 EX OC 2GB DDR5 2xDVI HDMI DisplayPort PCIe 4079 SEK
Asus Maximus V Gene Intel Z77 4xDDR3 Socket 1155 mATX 1415 SEK
Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Socket 1155 Box 1890 SEK
Noctua NH-D14 CPU-kylare S1156/1366/775/AM2/AM3 660 SEK
Silverstone Precision PS07B Tower No PSU Black mATX 739 SEK
SEASONIC Sonic X-460 - nätaggregat - 460 Watt (X-460FL) 1189 SEK
6 NOCTUA NF-S12B ULN - 700/500 rpm - 120x120x25 mm (NF-S12B ULN) 1074 SEK
Alpenföhn Peter Universal High-End VGA Cooler 599 SEK
What do you guys think... will it work out?
I won't go into specifics about my ssds though because you people will butcher me...
|
On May 10 2012 19:21 nihlon wrote:Show nested quote +On May 10 2012 18:58 bbrian wrote:
Thank u reading manuall! (english is my 2nd language) cant understand manual very good. Yes, nothing happens when i try to push power button on case, no sound of any fans spinning. If you have everything connected correctly (power, front panel connectors, standoff screws and so on) it could be a bad psu. If you have a spare psu, you could try connecting that one. I have to go to lunch now but I'm sure there are other people here that can help you. You can also check this thread for some suggestions: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/261145-13-read-posting-boot-problemsGood luck.
Thanks for ur help but im taking it to a store. The problem is the wiring to the front caae panel. No way im rewiring all that clusterfuck lol.
|
On May 10 2012 22:35 JingleHell wrote:Show nested quote +On May 10 2012 19:21 nihlon wrote:On May 10 2012 18:58 bbrian wrote:
Thank u reading manuall! (english is my 2nd language) cant understand manual very good. Yes, nothing happens when i try to push power button on case, no sound of any fans spinning. If you have everything connected correctly (power, front panel connectors, standoff screws and so on) it could be a bad psu. If you have a spare psu, you could try connecting that one. I have to go to lunch now but I'm sure there are other people here that can help you. You can also check this thread for some suggestions: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/261145-13-read-posting-boot-problemsGood luck. A good way to check is to jump the headers for the power switch with a screwdriver. That can ensure that you don't have an issue with the case.
How do i jumpstart power with a scredriver?
|
On May 11 2012 08:17 Shauni wrote:ok so now I'm finally ordering my "fanless" build... A bit expensive though, I had some gigantic issues choosing graphics card (I wanted a 7850 but it wouldn't fit, the 670 is so overpriced ). KFA2 GeForce GTX 670 EX OC 2GB DDR5 2xDVI HDMI DisplayPort PCIe 4079 SEK Asus Maximus V Gene Intel Z77 4xDDR3 Socket 1155 mATX 1415 SEK Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Socket 1155 Box 1890 SEK Noctua NH-D14 CPU-kylare S1156/1366/775/AM2/AM3 660 SEK Silverstone Precision PS07B Tower No PSU Black mATX 739 SEK SEASONIC Sonic X-460 - nätaggregat - 460 Watt (X-460FL) 1189 SEK 6 NOCTUA NF-S12B ULN - 700/500 rpm - 120x120x25 mm (NF-S12B ULN) 1074 SEK Alpenföhn Peter Universal High-End VGA Cooler 599 SEK What do you guys think... will it work out? I won't go into specifics about my ssds though because you people will butcher me...
How does the 7850 not fit? The Peter doesn't fit on the 7850? It's too long?
Maybe I'm dumb, but I'm not seeing where the 6 extra fans are going to be installed in a PS07, unless you're also using those fans on the NH-D14.
On May 11 2012 08:27 bbrian wrote:Show nested quote +On May 10 2012 22:35 JingleHell wrote:On May 10 2012 19:21 nihlon wrote:On May 10 2012 18:58 bbrian wrote:
Thank u reading manuall! (english is my 2nd language) cant understand manual very good. Yes, nothing happens when i try to push power button on case, no sound of any fans spinning. If you have everything connected correctly (power, front panel connectors, standoff screws and so on) it could be a bad psu. If you have a spare psu, you could try connecting that one. I have to go to lunch now but I'm sure there are other people here that can help you. You can also check this thread for some suggestions: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/261145-13-read-posting-boot-problemsGood luck. A good way to check is to jump the headers for the power switch with a screwdriver. That can ensure that you don't have an issue with the case. How do i jumpstart power with a scredriver?
The power switch of the case is connected to two pins on the motherboard, so when you push down the switch, there's an electrical connection between the pins via the wires and the switch.
You use a screwdriver to make that electrical connection between those two pins instead. Touch the head of the (metal) screwdriver so that it's touching both pins. It's effectively doing the same thing.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
EPT
