When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly.
On May 11 2012 15:22 JingleHell wrote: Ok, now for the million dollar questions. If you're not OCed, why don't you just use google to get stock baselines?
What do you want to compare to? Other stock rigs? Completely different hardware configurations? Also, why do you care? Frankly, if you're not using it to get a baseline prior to OCing, at which point your current score doesn't matter nearly as much as your OCed results, and if you're not using it for e-peen, your 3dmark score literally is irrelevant, and you should worry about real world performance instead.
well myrmidon mentioned that 3dmark11 was a decent entry level indicator if everything is working well. this is the new computer i just built so i posted the scores hoping to see if there was anything in the scores that may indicate any problems. i did in fact google it before posting, but to be honest, i don't know the significance of 100 points and 1000 points when comparing it to other results I see online. more than anything, i just wanted to make sure the scores looked normal.
also, ended up installing the hyper 212+ around an hour ago. I ran prime95 on all three tests and the highest temp i got was around 55C. don't know if that's good for a hyper 212+ but it definitely beats the 90C i was running at before with the stock intel cooler.
The CPU temp is fine. 3dmark is a great indicator, if you have a baseline. Generally, if you're reasonably close, it runs the tests without crashes, freezes, artifacting, or other bizarre shit, and you aren't overheating, then just worry about your performance in games from there on out.
If you're more than 20 points away on scores from identical hardware at the same clocks, you either did it wrong, or have a problem, with doing it wrong being much more likely.
Well, that's a generalization, at 20 points, only applicable for 3d11 P preset, and only in gamer type hardware. Lower end shit, you'd want less variance.
I was going through the spec sheets for Caviar Black's/Blue's and Green's on Newegg and the Read/Write speeds surprised me (7200rpm SATA3 Models). According to the PDF's the Caviar Green has the highest Read/Write speed at 150MB/s while Black has 138MB/s and Blue has 126MB/s. Now is there something I'm missing or am I safe to assume Caviar Green's are the best? EDIT: Screenshots of Spec Sheets + Show Spoiler +
On May 11 2012 16:50 iTzSnypah wrote: I was going through the spec sheets for Caviar Black's/Blue's and Green's on Newegg and the Read/Write speeds surprised me (7200rpm SATA3 Models). According to the PDF's the Caviar Green has the highest Read/Write speed at 150MB/s while Black has 138MB/s and Blue has 126MB/s. Now is there something I'm missing or am I safe to assume Caviar Green's are the best?
In random access and overall usage other than say copying huge files or dumping raw video, the 7200 rpm models should be faster.
Most Caviar Green shouldn't be reaching 150 MB/s even at the beginning of the disk...unless maybe it's one of the newer models with a 1TB platter density (supposedly), e.g. WD10EZRX. The increased sequential speeds are because the other drives are using older, less dense platters. Anyway, above 150 MB/s max sequential transfers have been common for a while on 7200 rpm hard drives. Some of the 1TB platter 7200 rpm Hitachi drives can do over 180 MB/s.
Ok so when I leave the 2500k voltage on auto it maxes at 1.39v but can run as low as 0.95v not under load. When I set it to manual 1.35 it runs at that voltage constantly. Would it be better to just use auto or set a voltage offset instead of using manual?
On May 11 2012 17:33 TheMooseHeed wrote: Ok so when I leave the 2500k voltage on auto it maxes at 1.39v but can run as low as 0.95v not under load. When I set it to manual 1.35 it runs at that voltage constantly. Would it be better to just use auto or set a voltage offset instead of using manual?
Both are stable and run at exceptable temps
there is no reason to have it run at a fixed voltage if you dont oc. auto is fine and if you want to undervolt a bit do it with the offset.
also are we talking about 1.39v VID in coretemp or used voltage like cpuz shows you? cause afaik that would be damn high for a normal stock clocked 2500k.
I am thinking of getting a desktop, and the main reason is to play games without any issues on high settings (SC2, LoL, Diablo 3, DotA 2 etc.)
I want the tower only, however, I have basically zero knowledge of how to build my own computer nor do I not know anyone who would be able to do this for me so I am after a pre built computer.
Would anyone be able to guide me in the right direction as to what I should be looking for or could post any links to computers or good websites for me to start looking that would be very helpful.
On May 11 2012 17:33 TheMooseHeed wrote: Ok so when I leave the 2500k voltage on auto it maxes at 1.39v but can run as low as 0.95v not under load. When I set it to manual 1.35 it runs at that voltage constantly. Would it be better to just use auto or set a voltage offset instead of using manual?
Both are stable and run at exceptable temps
the voltage range is usually because your cpu is downclocking during idle times (called "c states")
the upper range of 1.39v is a bit high for just a normal 4ghz overclock. because you are using Auto, this is probably just asrock playing it safe by giving such a wide berth in voltage to ensure their 'auto overclock' will always be stable.
normally you just increase the multiplier until unstable, then incremently increase the voltage, and repeat until desired clockspeed.
On May 11 2012 21:50 Ash041 wrote: Hi every, this is my first post so go easy ...
I am thinking of getting a desktop, and the main reason is to play games without any issues on high settings (SC2, LoL, Diablo 3, DotA 2 etc.)
I want the tower only, however, I have basically zero knowledge of how to build my own computer nor do I not know anyone who would be able to do this for me so I am after a pre built computer.
Would anyone be able to guide me in the right direction as to what I should be looking for or could post any links to computers or good websites for me to start looking that would be very helpful.
On May 11 2012 21:50 Ash041 wrote: Hi everyone, this is my first post so go easy ...
I am thinking of getting a desktop, and the main reason is to play games without any issues on high settings (SC2, LoL, Diablo 3, DotA 2 etc.)
I want the tower only, however, I have basically zero knowledge of how to build my own computer nor do I not know anyone who would be able to do this for me so I am after a pre built computer.
Would anyone be able to guide me in the right direction as to what I should be looking for or could post any links to computers or good websites for me to start looking that would be very helpful.
My budget is around £650 ~ $1000
Thanks!
I am from England so please bare that in mind =D
Hey Ash041, before deciding whether to buy a pre-built computer or not, please refer to skyR's post quoted below. It's one of the many videos out there that can guide a beginner in the building process. Everyone starts out not knowing anything. It can be done, if you want to.
On May 08 2012 07:03 nosliw wrote: hi guys, trying to build my first desktop. I have always just bought premade desktops and laptops before. Can anyone show me some noob guides for building desktops? Thanks,
On May 11 2012 17:33 TheMooseHeed wrote: Ok so when I leave the 2500k voltage on auto it maxes at 1.39v but can run as low as 0.95v not under load. When I set it to manual 1.35 it runs at that voltage constantly. Would it be better to just use auto or set a voltage offset instead of using manual?
Both are stable and run at exceptable temps
there is no reason to have it run at a fixed voltage if you dont oc. auto is fine and if you want to undervolt a bit do it with the offset.
also are we talking about 1.39v VID in coretemp or used voltage like cpuz shows you? cause afaik that would be damn high for a normal stock clocked 2500k.
Sorry I wasnt clear it was overclocked to 4ghz at this point
On May 11 2012 17:33 TheMooseHeed wrote: Ok so when I leave the 2500k voltage on auto it maxes at 1.39v but can run as low as 0.95v not under load. When I set it to manual 1.35 it runs at that voltage constantly. Would it be better to just use auto or set a voltage offset instead of using manual?
Both are stable and run at exceptable temps
the voltage range is usually because your cpu is downclocking during idle times (called "c states")
the upper range of 1.39v is a bit high for just a normal 4ghz overclock. because you are using Auto, this is probably just asrock playing it safe by giving such a wide berth in voltage to ensure their 'auto overclock' will always be stable.
normally you just increase the multiplier until unstable, then incremently increase the voltage, and repeat until desired clockspeed.
Hello, I would appreciate input for my computer build. If you can spare some time to advise me--that would be great!
My budget for this computer is about $1200 excluding the monitor. If I can get it down closer to $1000 that would be great.
I plan to run at 1920x1200. I will probably get the Dell UltraSharp U2412M.
I will use the computer mostly for gaming. I am a Computer Science major so I will probably end up coding on it some.
I plan on a very long upgrade cycle. 4 or 5 years.
I plan on building the computer in the next few weeks. I had been waiting on the Ivy Bridge processors and the new NVIDIA cards.
I do plan on overclocking. I've not done it before--but I'm pretty sure there is plenty of information on the internet for me to find out how.
I do not need an operating system.
I don't think I need SLI unless you can convince me so. Maybe at a later date?
I'll probably buy almost all of my parts from newegg.
Now that that is out of the way: Processor: I think I want the new Ivy Bridge i5. I do some rendering but don't wanna dish out the cash for hyperthreading. Motherboard: I don't know. RAM: What is good? Probably 8 gigs. But what brand? GPU: Probably the NVIDIA GTX 680. Is there a problem with that? Case: I've had people tell me that full tower can be nice just for the extra room and airflow. I know I definitely am willing to spend an extra $50 or so in this department for something "cool." I'll show you links of what I've been looking at below. If you really don't think full tower is necessary--at least the links will show you the style of case I'm looking at. I like smooth or a little exotic. Lian li is nice. I don't particularly like side windows if it can be helped. NXZT Zero 2 Rosewill THOR V2 NXZT Phantom Cooler Master HAF 932 Lian Li PC-A70F PSU: What is good? Heatsink/Fan: I think I will want an aftermarket heatsink and fan. I want my computer as cool as possible. What can you recommend? Hard Drive: I have 12 TB of external backup so I want something smallish in this. Maybe 500GB to 1TB at 7,200 RPM. DVD Drive: I'll need something. I can install windows easily from a flash drive but I will still need the disc drive. Keyboard/Mouse: I'll handle that on my own. I have razer mice and will buy a keyboard.
Thank you very much for you time in helping me with this.
I will check back for replies as often as I can but it may be up to 6 hours. I can't afford to sit here and F5 the page all day
Thanks!
Your budget does not allow for a GTX 680 and Ivybridge.
A full tower case is not necessary for a basic configuration and a full tower case does not always equate to better airflow. If you're a fan of Lian Li than I'm guessing you're looking for a minimalist design such as a Corsair 550D and Fractal Design Define R3, Antec P280 may be anaother option.
This is $1228 before mail in rebates and all other applicable fees:
If you want to reduce the total, you can simply remove either the SSD or HDD. Since you already have 12TB of storage, there shouldn't be much need for another HDD though. Another option is getting a less expensive case than the Corsair 550D. If you want Ivybridge & Kepler, you can't lower the total much further on Newegg.
Best case RMA scenario is in effect. EVGA didn't have a 460 to ship for my RMA, so they shipped a 560Ti instead. Since it was an SLI RMA, I now get to ship my other 460 back, for another $20 shipping, for another 560Ti. $40 upgrade from SLI 460 to SLI 560Ti.
On May 12 2012 03:27 JingleHell wrote: Best case RMA scenario is in effect. EVGA didn't have a 460 to ship for my RMA, so they shipped a 560Ti instead. Since it was an SLI RMA, I now get to ship my other 460 back, for another $20 shipping, for another 560Ti. $40 upgrade from SLI 460 to SLI 560Ti.
maybe i shouldve taken the bit more expensive evga 570 classified over my gigabyte 560ti 448 , cause that does sound awesome ;P
On May 12 2012 06:28 Ercster wrote: Are the WD Caviar Greens worth buying?
For some things, like media storage, yes. For gaming off of, or putting most of your software on, there's not much good to em. The price difference isn't worth the performance hit for anything but storing movies or photos. That goes for anything below 7200 rpm.
I'd prefer a smaller 7200 to a larger slower drive for software, if price was a factor.
Nice. I'm looking forward to getting that second 560Ti in, in a couple of months I'm hoping to lose my old 212+ for the new TPC 812, up my OC on the 930 some, probably bounce to 4Ghz w/ HT on, and then see where I can take my 3dmark scores.
EPT![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/GCCnc.gif)
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