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On August 05 2021 06:55 MrBliss_9 wrote:
Is anyone following the debut of sport climbing? I'm sad to see Sean McColl eliminated before the finals, after he worked so hard at the IFSC to have sport climbing entered into the Olympics. Some minor upsets in the qualifiers already, with Colin Duffy securing a spot in the finals, and Mikael Mawem absolutely crushing. Does anyone think Alex Megos should get Bassa Mawem's spot in the finals, since Bassa is bowing out due to injury?
Definitely sad to see both Canadians eliminated because I've seen both of them climbing at my local gyms before.
I do think Alex Megos should get the spot, because otherwise you're gifting Adam Ondra a medal given the format. It's a massive advantage for the worst speed climber in the lot to be given a free win.
Normally he would finish 8/2?/2? for 32, which is probably a bronze at best. Instead he finishes 4/2?/2? and if he gets 1st/2nd he can almost guarantee a gold.
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On August 05 2021 15:01 Amui wrote:Show nested quote +On August 05 2021 06:55 MrBliss_9 wrote:
Is anyone following the debut of sport climbing? I'm sad to see Sean McColl eliminated before the finals, after he worked so hard at the IFSC to have sport climbing entered into the Olympics. Some minor upsets in the qualifiers already, with Colin Duffy securing a spot in the finals, and Mikael Mawem absolutely crushing. Does anyone think Alex Megos should get Bassa Mawem's spot in the finals, since Bassa is bowing out due to injury? Definitely sad to see both Canadians eliminated because I've seen both of them climbing at my local gyms before. I do think Alex Megos should get the spot, because otherwise you're gifting Adam Ondra a medal given the format. It's a massive advantage for the worst speed climber in the lot to be given a free win. Normally he would finish 8/2?/2? for 32, which is probably a bronze at best. Instead he finishes 4/2?/2? and if he gets 1st/2nd he can almost guarantee a gold.
My main issue is the format. Turning climbing into a "triathlon" thing where you have to be good at 3 very different things is just weird. What you say here isn't wrong, but it makes about as much sense as saying that Usain Bolt shouldn't have won the sprinting medals because he's rubbish at running a marathon.
Adam Ondra is one of the absolute best technical climbers in the world. He doesn't need to go *that* fast as long as he can get to the top of insanely difficult routes. It seems weird that he needs to train a very different discipline (doing easy routes insanely fast) to compete at the Olympics.
And the same goes for speed climbers. I don't know much about speed climbing but I've watched some at this Olympics and it looks absolutely insane how they spider up these walls so fast. I'm sure they deserve their own medals for that sprint instead of also having to do very different technical climbs.
And all of this was known beforehand and made abundantly clear to the IOC. But I guess they insisted about starting climbing with just one medal and we ended up with this weird triathlon format that nobody is really prepared for, and (probably) won't celebrate what the community (or actually, 3 different communities) consider the best climbers in the world.
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On August 05 2021 15:41 Acrofales wrote:Show nested quote +On August 05 2021 15:01 Amui wrote:On August 05 2021 06:55 MrBliss_9 wrote:
Is anyone following the debut of sport climbing? I'm sad to see Sean McColl eliminated before the finals, after he worked so hard at the IFSC to have sport climbing entered into the Olympics. Some minor upsets in the qualifiers already, with Colin Duffy securing a spot in the finals, and Mikael Mawem absolutely crushing. Does anyone think Alex Megos should get Bassa Mawem's spot in the finals, since Bassa is bowing out due to injury? Definitely sad to see both Canadians eliminated because I've seen both of them climbing at my local gyms before. I do think Alex Megos should get the spot, because otherwise you're gifting Adam Ondra a medal given the format. It's a massive advantage for the worst speed climber in the lot to be given a free win. Normally he would finish 8/2?/2? for 32, which is probably a bronze at best. Instead he finishes 4/2?/2? and if he gets 1st/2nd he can almost guarantee a gold. My main issue is the format. Turning climbing into a "triathlon" thing where you have to be good at 3 very different things is just weird. What you say here isn't wrong, but it makes about as much sense as saying that Usain Bolt shouldn't have won the sprinting medals because he's rubbish at running a marathon. Adam Ondra is one of the absolute best technical climbers in the world. He doesn't need to go *that* fast as long as he can get to the top of insanely difficult routes. It seems weird that he needs to train a very different discipline (doing easy routes insanely fast) to compete at the Olympics. And the same goes for speed climbers. I don't know much about speed climbing but I've watched some at this Olympics and it looks absolutely insane how they spider up these walls so fast. I'm sure they deserve their own medals for that sprint instead of also having to do very different technical climbs. And all of this was known beforehand and made abundantly clear to the IOC. But I guess they insisted about starting climbing with just one medal and we ended up with this weird triathlon format that nobody is really prepared for, and (probably) won't celebrate what the community (or actually, 3 different communities) consider the best climbers in the world.
Yeah format issues are definitely a big gripe. Speed, and to a lesser extent bouldering and lead are very different disciplines. They're fixing it for the next Olympics though which is good.
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I'm mainly following Skateboarding, some upsets there too.
For street skateboarding, Nijah Huston, who has dominated the last decade, didn't make the podium.
Yuto Horigome won gold.
Women Street had gold/bronze for two Japanese girls who came out of the blue for me.
Women Park had another Japanese gold medal and Japan took silver too. Bronze went to Sky Brown who has been making a great impression lately winning Xgames.
Mind you, these female medalist are 12-14 years old.
Finally, Men Park was won by an Australian. Park is not something I'm that familiar with.
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Really out of the blue? Pretty sure i heard about all Japanese skatenoarders being gold.medal contenders since last year
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On August 05 2021 17:52 sharkie wrote:
Really out of the blue? Pretty sure i heard about all Japanese skatenoarders being gold.medal contenders since last year
For me.
I only follow US skateboarding events like Xgames/ SLS/ Dew tour and hadn't heard of them.
Also Bufoni didn't make the finals, no idea what happened there.
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I've really enjoyed the skateboarding too, and the BMX events (not only because of UK medals haha).
I think they are an awesome addition to the Olympics, and they show that the soul of sport is still alive and well. Its nice to watch competitive sports that don't feel a competition to see how many performance enhancing drugs the human body can take.
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United States97276 Posts
impressive run in the women's marathon by Molly Seidel. Only her 3rd marathon ever and she takes bronze
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EPT
