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semantics
10040 Posts
Yeah normally when i can't get a computer to book i unplug everything, it's just a good practice sometimes connections aren't seated properly but look all the way in unpluging and resetting those connections can be sometimes a help oddly enough. Then i only leave in the video card 1 stick on ram in the proper slot and see if i can get it to post. Then i work up adding parts to ensure i can tell when or what is causing the problem. | ||
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yakitate304
United States655 Posts
On July 10 2010 11:42 FragKrag wrote: Try booting up with just 1 stick of RAM in the A1 position of your mobo (wherever that may be) If you have an ASUS mobo and have the memOK! feature, try that. Memory instability can cause an inability to boot. I can't get to the 1st RAM slot - the heatsink is in the way. I'm currently using slots 3 and 4 because that's really all I can use. It's an MSI 870A-G54 mobo. | ||
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FragKrag
United States11567 Posts
If that doesn't work, try to reset your CMOS. | ||
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nineninja9
United States194 Posts
On July 10 2010 12:01 yakitate304 wrote: I can't get to the 1st RAM slot - the heatsink is in the way. I'm currently using slots 3 and 4 because that's really all I can use. It's an MSI 870A-G54 mobo. Just to make sure, your CPU is receiving power right? If the 4/8 pin connector near the cpu isn't plugged in, then you'll get the exact problems you described. | ||
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yakitate304
United States655 Posts
"Cons: When plugged in, everything worked except for the monitor. All fans, lights etc came on. I asked around, was told that it was DOA. I asked my IT friend to come over and take a look. He came over, took my processor out, looked at it , put it in again and turned everything on. Same thing." | ||
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yakitate304
United States655 Posts
On July 10 2010 12:10 nineninja9 wrote: Just to make sure, your CPU is receiving power right? If the 4/8 pin connector near the cpu isn't plugged in, then you'll get the exact problems you described. Wow, the 4/8 pin one WASN'T connected. I have an 8 pin cable that fits, but I also have a cable that is two blocks of 4, that also fits if I just plug one of the blocks in. It came with a (removable) piece of plastic covering up one of the blocks of 4 on the mobo. Should I use the regular 8 pin one, or only use a 4 pin one in the slot that was initially open? | ||
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nineninja9
United States194 Posts
On July 10 2010 12:34 yakitate304 wrote: Wow, the 4/8 pin one WASN'T connected. I have an 8 pin cable that fits, but I also have a cable that is two blocks of 4, that also fits if I just plug one of the blocks in. It came with a (removable) piece of plastic covering up one of the blocks of 4 on the mobo. Should I use the regular 8 pin one, or only use a 4 pin one in the slot that was initially open? Use the 4 pin on the slot that was initially open. That's a pretty easy mistake to make, I recognized the symptoms so quickly because I did that on my first build a while back and couldn't figure it out for hours. | ||
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semantics
10040 Posts
else the 4 pin is perfectly fine. | ||
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R04R
United States1631 Posts
4870 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150436 vs. 4850 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150482 | ||
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nineninja9
United States194 Posts
On July 10 2010 12:58 R04R wrote: I found a xfx hd 4870 that's cheaper than the xfx hd 4850 after MIR and shipping is factored, but the reviews say the 4870s get reallllly hot because of an incompetent fan. 4870 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150436 vs. 4850 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150482 4870s get very hot in general. Mine idles at about 42C, but really it only matters if you care about fan noise. That and you'll pay a couple more dollars a year on electricity, but it's fairly insignificant. | ||
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FragKrag
United States11567 Posts
If you can get a 4870 for the price of a 4850, definitely get the 4870 | ||
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semantics
10040 Posts
On July 10 2010 13:06 nineninja9 wrote: 4870s get very hot in general. Mine idles at about 42C, but really it only matters if you care about fan noise. That and you'll pay a couple more dollars a year on electricity, but it's fairly insignificant. lol you call that hot my 8800gtx idled at 60c until i installed an aftermarket heat-sink all over that dam thing so it idled at 40 and at load at 50 | ||
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R04R
United States1631 Posts
On July 10 2010 13:55 semantics wrote: lol you call that hot my 8800gtx idled at 60c until i installed an aftermarket heat-sink all over that dam thing so it idled at 40 and at load at 50 I dunno... some of the reviews on the 4870 claim 60-80C Idles and one got to 98C on a full load :S | ||
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FragKrag
United States11567 Posts
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yakitate304
United States655 Posts
Everything is recognized and working. I was honestly too lazy to remove the components one by one so I just prayed that the 8-pin connector (which is what I used) would make the difference, and it did. Windows 7 is going to take some getting used to... Thank you all so much for all the help and answers you gave me over the last week or two! | ||
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nineninja9
United States194 Posts
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R04R
United States1631 Posts
I know Sapphire isn't the best brand, but for what it's worth, it has Vapor-X(?gimmick?) cooling that keeps temps pretty low according to reviews with respect to most 4850s. Only thing I hope for is to not get a faulty card. 650mhz/1000mhz http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102834 $80 after MIR Then there's this Asus card with a decent-looking hsm(hell, what do I know?) and reviews say it's really good for OCing. And no reviews of faulty cards (yet). http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121380 $85 after MIR I was going begin looking at GT250s but I'm a bit iffy on that spectrum of graphics cards. Edit: I'm a bit confused in finding a PSU. I used Newegg's "Which Power Supply Do I Need?" feature where you input what parts you're using and it determines an amount of wattage recommended for you. How much should I scale up from that? I noticed the efficiencies of (good) PSUs are a little above 80%, so should I get the recommended wattage after factoring the 80% efficiency of the PSU or just a little over? http://c1.neweggimages.com/BizIntell/tool/psucalc/index.html?cm_sp=Cat32_PowerSupply_left-_-PowerSupplyFinder030510-_-http://promotions.newegg.com/productfinders/powersupply.jpg PII x4 (presuming I unlock cores) High-end Mobo 4850 2gb ddr3 x2 Combo Drive 7200rpm hard drive recommends me 451 wattage. Should I get 500, 600, or 700? | ||
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haduken
Australia8267 Posts
Seasonic M12II 620W XFX 650W XXX The above three have one thing in common, they are all made by Seasonic! So get which ever one is cheaper! (Probably Corsair HX 650) | ||
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Rev0lution
United States1805 Posts
On July 10 2010 21:31 haduken wrote: Corsair HX 650 Seasonic M12II 620W XFX 650W XXX The above three have one thing in common, they are all made by Seasonic! So get which ever one is cheaper! (Probably Corsair HX 650) This one is the best. | ||
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FragKrag
United States11567 Posts
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371020 Antec Truepower 550W $80 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371021 Antec Truepower 650W $90 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139003 Corsair 450W $65, $45 after MIR http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139004 Corsair 550W $80, $70 after MIR I would go for the 550W myself. There are plenty of companies that also make good PSUs. Don't have to limit yourself to Sea Sonic models. | ||
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