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United Kingdom20345 Posts
On February 28 2014 12:01 Ropid wrote:Show nested quote +On February 28 2014 11:15 Cronosc2 wrote:so i can basically go for this + Show Spoiler +
I would wanna keep the cooler for cooling and just lesser noise, because when streaming the cpu is heavely loaded..
8GB Kingston HyperX Beast DDR3-1600 DIMM CL9 Dual Kit; 70€ instead of 133€ and,
ASRock Fatal1ty H87 Performance Intel H87 So.1150 Dual Channel DDR3 ATX; 80€ instead of 120€
and with that difference i can afford this graphics card basically
2048MB Gigabyte GeForce GTX 770 WindForce 3X Aktiv PCIe 3.0 x16 275€ instead of 168€ weaker card.
am i correct? Perhaps rather buy this cooler: "Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro Rev. 2" http://www.mindfactory.de/product_info.php/Arctic-Cooling-Freezer-7-Pro-Rev--2-Tower-Kuehler_624936.htmlThere might be a different one that's even cheaper and still quiet. The one you chose is definitely overkill. This one was for example originally sold without fan for passive use: "Thermalright HR-02 Macho Rev. A" http://www.mindfactory.de/product_info.php/Thermalright-HR-02-Macho-Rev-A--BW--Tower-Kuehler_809693.htmlIt's strong enough to keep your CPU cool just by the air being moved by the case fans (the cooler you want to buy is by the way probably not better despite its higher price). EDIT: + Show Spoiler +Here's a previous version of that Matterhorn being tested: http://www.hardwareluxx.de/index.php/artikel/hardware/kuehlung/22523-test-alpenfoehn-matterhorn-pure.html?start=4The following page in that review has a graph showing what happens in "semi-passive" use without fan on the cooler. It gets crushed by the HR-02, more than 20 C difference. The newer version you are looking at might have fixed some problems it had, but it still can't possibly be worth 50 € if the HR-02 is only 36 € at mindfactory.de. Especially if you want quiet, HR-02 would seriously work without its fan so can't be beat.  The silence argument for the expensive cooler is probably a bit beside the point because you'll always hear the graphics card over the CPU cooler even if you buy that small and cheap Arctic cooler.
Agreed for most stuff here, and whatever GPU is being bought, it's for titanfall etc. You can max sc2 fine on a gtx750 and your minimum FPS probably won't be hurt. i7 is for when you >really< want that extra 15% encoding performance. If 15% performance in that area mattered to you, then overclocking an i5 is a far superior option as that can also increase your minimum FPS in sc2 by like 30-40%. If not, you'll be completely fine without it.
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Do FSP make good power supplies?
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United States9452 Posts
Yes. Also a lot of more mediocre stuff and cheap stuff, particularly in the past. That's both as contract manufacturer for others and under their own brand.
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Ah, so the 250W PSU in an old computer of ours could actually be shitty then? It's a prebuilt from Acer with a Pentium 925 D and an Ati HD 2400, 1 Gb of DDR2 RAM. :o
I opened it up to clean up the dust and had a little peek at the stuff. Was just curious.
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United States9452 Posts
Regardless of the manufacturer used, nobody like Acer, Asus, Dell, Lenovo, etc. puts great power supplies in cheaper or consumer prebuilts. Just the bare minimum to get something reasonably reliable and marginally in spec if pushed to the limit, which almost nobody will actually do. i.e. better than low-end junk you can pick up but not anything good. (For a high-end business / workstation machine, you generally get something better.) It's probably one of FSP's lower-end lines, which like everyone else's, has to be some cause for concern after 5+ years or so.
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A long time ago, I bought a cheap ASUS mini tower barebones that came with an Athlon 64 X2 CPU at one of the lower speeds. That PC had a PSU by Delta which I thought were all quality. Regarding its specs, it was a 230W PSU if I remember right so really the bare minimum needed.
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Am I missing anything or does Asus not have drivers available for download here?
Is it suppose to auto-download once I'm online?
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The drivers are listed under Support > Driver & Tools > VGA
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On March 01 2014 03:47 Wala.Revolution wrote:Am I missing anything or does Asus not have drivers available for download here? Is it suppose to auto-download once I'm online?
Shouldn't you be downloading drivers from Nvidia?
I think it's the BIOS that's specific for a given manufacturer.
Edit: ah i guess not
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You should be downloading drivers direct from Nvidia, AMD, and Intel unless you're looking for an older version, in which case it may be easier to elsewhere like ASUS.
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So drivers found here (asus) aren't required if I down the nvidia ones? What about that BIOS update one, should I install that?
Also with mobo drivers is there any harm in installing all of it? Do I need to install of them?
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Nvidia has the newer drivers, ASUS has an older driver listed. Driver 327.23 listed on ASUS's website is the exact same 327.23 listed on Nvidia's website.
There's no harm installing all of them and no you don't need all of them, the only absolute must is probably the LAN driver (and USB3 driver). Do not install the Asmedia SATA drivers if you are not going to use the Asmedia SATA ports.
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Ok so this is my first build in about 6 years since before i joined the Army. I'm having a buddy who i went to high school with help me assemble everything and install software properly. so i had a budget of $1000, and could possible stretch to $1100, monitor included. My friend who lives in SF and works for Intel hooked me up with a special price Haswell i7-4770 + SSD (240GB) for $298! so stoked about that, but here's my build:
Haswell i7-4770K 3.5 Ghz + SSD 530 Series (240GB, 2.5") $298.00
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo Direct Touch 4 Heatpipe Heatsink $39.99
MB GIGABYTE|GA-B85M-HD3 RT $69.99
VGA ASUS|GTX760-DC2OC-2GD5 2G RT $249.99
MEM 4Gx2|PNY MD8192KD3-1600-X9 R $69.99
Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB $64.99
ASUS E818AAT 18X SATA DVD-ROM Black Bulk $27.06
CASE GAMING ROSEWILL|CHALLENGER RT black $49.99
PSU 750W CM| RS750-ACAAB1-US R $84.99
BenQ GW2255 21.5IN Widescreen LED LCD Monitor 1920x1080 $104.99
TOTAL $1059.98
I originally wasn't going to put a SSD in, but with that deal i couldent pass it up. What do you think?
I forgot i also have to buy a copy of Windows 7 
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Thanks for the input! I honestly dont know very much still learning a lot. i just saw 750w and thought that would be good, didnt want to starve my system of power and have instability issues. do you think it will do ok for now until i can upgrade?
and i'm not doing any over clocking so i guess the heat sink isnt really needed
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Some random ideas about your list:
You should buy a Z87 board so that you can play around with overclocking that 4770k. This will increase the price for the board to something like $100 to $130. People like to recommend the Gigabyte GA-Z87X-D3H.
You might want to buy a Thermalright HR-02 Macho Rev. A for about $50 from amazon.com instead of that $40 offer for a Hyper 212 Evo you have on your list. It's stronger, the cooler itself is built much better and the fan used is great.
Alternatively, you could skip the overclocking idea and stay with the board you chose. In that case, you don't have to buy that Hyper 212 Evo on your list at all. If you receive the 4770k CPU in its normal consumer packaging, you will get a tiny free cooler that will be enough.
At the shop you want to buy, browse the section for memory kits at faster speed. You currently have a 1600Mhz kit on your list, but there are usually only slightly more expensive offers at speeds like 1866, 2133 or 2400Mhz. If you only have to add $10 or something like that to get a faster kit, it is worth the money. This is only relevant if you buy a Z87 board! If you don't, stay with 1600MHz RAM.
The PSU is probably not good! I'm not sure if this review here is the same PSU as the product number ends in different letters: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=188
The parts used inside the PSU in that review are of suspicious quality. The PSU starts failing to do the advertised 750W if air temperatures start approaching 40C which is worrying as that might actually happen in the summer in some places (40C = 104F).
Because you don't really need 750W, you could instead save some money and buy a smaller PSU of better quality. People like to recommend the Rosewill Capstone 450. It's currently $60 at newegg.com.
I don't know if the monitor is a good buy or not, but at least it's not expensive so probably fine.
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Thank you for all the awesome info! Very helpful
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You know, if you already have the PSU and board and stuff, I'd personally just stay with it and risk using it forever, never replacing it. It probably has enough protections so that it shuts down if it gets too hot and whatnot, and your PC will only use about 300W of those 750W at most (or something like that). You also won't really ever have to worry about future upgrades to the PC being too much for the PSU. Things get more economical regarding power use with each new graphics card generation, and you can't do things like use two graphics card in this PC, will always stay with a single card.
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United States9452 Posts
Old GX series (as seen in the review) has been EOL for a while. They updated and changed the model number and had a new GX series. Old with E near the end was from Seventeam. Newer stuff with D near the end is from Enhance; it was largely uninspiring but not bad. And these days they're on GX II, also from Enhance, also not really worth looking at but not bad.
edit: -B1 is new series, GX II. not something already owned, I think? Or at least, it's definitely not as old as the comp.
GW2255 is one of the cheapest non-TN monitors. It's an MVA, possibly too slow on some color transitions (read: slower than IPS) for some people playing games. So you get a bit extra motion blurring than on other usual LCD monitors. You get much deeper blacks than on other panel types though and viewing angles better than TN.
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Ok looks like I didn't mess up anything. New comp is running smooth so far but when I'm browing and I scroll around in browser,I can see an area of blurriness that I think is refreshing what the monitor is displaying. Testing on old computer it seems that it was there too but a lot less noticeable. Is there a way to fix this or is it because I went from 17 inch monitor to 23 inch one?
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EPT
