|
On April 28 2013 08:03 Lakona wrote:Hey guys. After a bit more research I'm thinking of buying this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168832293781) Would this be sufficient to stream in high quality with basically zero lag? 2) Is it a reasonable price for the performance? How much cheaper could I theoretically get the same level or better by building myself?
NCIX, Canada Computers, and most other Canadian retailers offer computer assembly for ~$50 so buy something worse from the US?
|
Hi my computer lags on LOW settings and I'd like to improve it.
These are my specs, if possible could someone tell me what to change & to what? (Also on a limited budget)
Processor: AMD Phenom(tm) 9500 Quad-Core Processor 2.2GHz
Ram: 4GB
Graphic card: ATI Radeon HD 3800 Series 2297 MB
~ Windows 7 Ultimate.
Thanks!
EDIT: I'd also like to play Dota 2 smoothly while I'm at it 
|
To get any sort of playability on low that depends on your cpu. The original phenom series has terrible ipc and clockspeed, so that's the problem . Medium or above may require a graphics card upgrade, but low will be pretty smooth with this setup.
You need a new motherboard and DDR3 ram (you'd have DDR2, incompatible) if you buy a new cpu. As a bare minimum decent setup you'd be looking at:
CPU, $65
Motherboard, $53
2x2GB RAM, $33
Which is about $150. Of course you can spend more to get a nicer choosing that won't be so budget (if you're going to be playing sc2 and dota 2 for the next 5 years it's fine though).
|
@Rollin Wow thanks! I really appreciate the help! You even went out of your way to link me/find me specific things I need. Once again, thank you! So very much!
|
I have had this really annoying SC2 problem: every now and then my game would freeze, go black, alt tab, and restore or crash completely. Today I finaly managed to figure out what it might be.
I have a program called Cataclyst Control Center (came with my video card). In there there is a thing called "High performance GPU clock settings" it goes from 300 till 1200 and it currently set at 1000 MHz. Now if I put that thing too 1200, it just keeps doing the same crash over and over.
So it seems that SC2 pushes it over 1000 MHz or something. Anyone know how I could prevent that?
|
That's overclocking the graphics card, which is not guaranteed to be stable (crashing is to be expected beyond a certain point, which varies depending on operating conditions as well as the low-level physical layout of the chip, which varies from chip to chip).
Unless the extra performance is helping you out—it probably won't really for SC2—just leave it at default so it doesn't ramp up to frequencies it can't handle on load. Or keep pushing the slider up slowly (test in game or stress test) until you find the point at which it still works properly. At least, that's the main idea. If you want specifics, say so.
|
Hello, I have a hp-laptop with win8 and I want to disable standard shortcut for f1 , which automaticly alt tabs everything and opens a help menu. It's very annoying when I accidently slip from control group 1 to f1 and everything alt tabs, and when my laptop manages to tab back everything is dead.
|
Are MSI graphics cards reliable? Is there much difference between OEM/brands? Which are known to have better service and support? Thanks
And you can do rebates with the same address for the same product name, as long as it's from different manufacturers, right?
|
Yes MSI GPUs are reliable. EVGA probably best known for their support.
Yes there is much difference between brands since the coolers are different, the PCBs can be different, and the support of course.
As for your rebate question, not sure what you mean?
|
Thanks skyR
if i buy a GTX 660 from EVGA and a GTX 660 from MSI, and they both have rebates, I can get both rebates?
Which are the worse brands in terms of the coolers and PCBs? does it differ highly model to model, or is it pretty consistent for a brand?
|
On rebates - I think the deal is per rebate, per household. You are buying different brands anyway, so it shouldn't be an issue.
I will warn you - in a tight economy, the rebate outfits are doing everything they can to disqualify rebates so keep extra copies/scans of the form and UPC code. In 2008 there was barely any issue with processing, but since that time (2010 and on), it's just been getting more and more annoying to deal with :p
|
I ask for some advice on how to upgrade my pc graphicscardwise in a pricerange from about 50€- 80€, mayby you can give me some advice, i dont want an overkill card for my system. But want to play sc2 in medium settings. I currently upgraded my CPU so here are my current specs:
Mobo + CPU :Gigabyte GA-MA770 DS 3 rev.1 with F8F Beta Bios and Phenom x4 965 BE @ 4ghz
RAM : 4GB Kingston Hyper-X
Graphicscard: Geforce 8600gt 512MB Gainward
running WIndows 7 64bit and Windows 8 64bit, cant really decide yet...
other stuff doesnt matter i guess ?
your help is appreciated, thanks fellows
|
Get a HD 7750. Should be a bit under or just about 80€.
If your power supply can handle it, there are also some older-generation cards that might be of interest on a deep discount.
|
On April 29 2013 05:08 waffling1 wrote:
Thanks skyR
if i buy a GTX 660 from EVGA and a GTX 660 from MSI, and they both have rebates, I can get both rebates?
Which are the worse brands in terms of the coolers and PCBs? does it differ highly model to model, or is it pretty consistent for a brand?
Yes, you would be able to get both rebates.
EVGA's Classfied and MSI's Power Edition and Lightning use custom PCBs but the rest of their line all use the reference PCB I think.
The worse for PCBs? Probably XFX... I think all their 7000 series is still using the reference PCB or better but with the 6000 and 5000 series, they eventually came out with a cost saving PCB.
|
Need some advice on my PC issue from you pros. So my PC (kinda old, maybe 4-5 years already) has been freezing, I wanna say kinda randomly. It happened first yesterday, while I was watching a stream on twitch. figured it was a flash or GPU driver issue, so I updated them. Happened again. So I turned off my browser and just left my computer on overnight (steam, skype, utorrent) running. In the morning the PC had hanged again.
Each time the PC hangs, I have to do a hard reset, mouse, monitor are all frozen. Any idea what could cause this? My PC has showed symptoms of CMOS battery low. When I plug it into a socket, I cannot turn the PC on for a few minutes. The power button does not light up. After that I can turn it on.
Not sure if CMOS can cause such hangs though.
Specs are (E8400, 4gb ram, Silverstone strider 560 watt PSU, HD4870X2, Gigabyte Mobo (forgot model num)
|
On April 29 2013 05:24 mav451 wrote:
On rebates - I think the deal is per rebate, per household. You are buying different brands anyway, so it shouldn't be an issue.
I will warn you - in a tight economy, the rebate outfits are doing everything they can to disqualify rebates so keep extra copies/scans of the form and UPC code. In 2008 there was barely any issue with processing, but since that time (2010 and on), it's just been getting more and more annoying to deal with :p
thanks mav. i haven't had any issues with rebate processing in the past year, but i will follow what you said.
|
@drew-chan: Perhaps some setting in the BIOS was important, and since the CMOS resets to whatever the defaults are, you have problems. The memory could for example need the XMP profile setting to run stable or something (note: that's theoretically not possible, I think). A battery is something like $1, so that won't hurt to try.
|
Just 2 days ago, my computer has now been occasionally making sort of a buzzing sound. The sound is made like around once every hour or two (so I haven't been able to check exactly where the sound is coming from).
The buzzing is kind of light (kind of sounds like a fly or bee flying but a bit lighter sounding and also more "rapid sounding" if that helps) but very noticeably.
Edit - Also the sound lasts for like 0.5-1 seconds. And actually, listening to it again, it doesn't sound exactly like a buzz (kind of sounds like a scratch sometimes, so I guess between a buzzing and scratching sound).
Edit 2 - Ok after hearing it some more, it kind of sounds like a "sharp scratch" sound or "single buzz" (like using a lighter/match but a bit more sharper and quicker sounding).
Edit 3 - Okay sometimes it does sound like a buzzing sound. Actually I hear a variety of sounds now, which doesn't seem good  . And the sounds have been happening a bit more frequently it seems .
I tried checking HDD status using speedfan and it seems everything is okay.
It sounds like it's coming from the bottom on the back (power supply and video card are on the back).
What is the worse case scenario for what may be causing the buzzing sound?
I will try checking my case to look for anything that may be hitting the fan, but are there any other potential problems that may cause a buzzing sound?
Edit - Also the sound is made even when the computer is idle (if I don't have anything open except my browser for example).
|
On April 29 2013 09:47 Ropid wrote:
@drew-chan: Perhaps some setting in the BIOS was important, and since the CMOS resets to whatever the defaults are, you have problems. The memory could for example need the XMP profile setting to run stable or something (note: that's theoretically not possible, I think). A battery is something like $1, so that won't hurt to try.
Hmmm, after running a CHKDSK and checking my thermals, everything is in order, in fact pretty good considering its an aging system. The problem I believe comes from me plugging in a power hungry USB device into the back usb panel? Hmm....
|
There's another tool to check the Windows installation. You type this at an Administrator command prompt:
sfc /scannow
It will check all Windows files for changes and also do other stuff like looking at the registry.
|
|
|
|
|
|
EPT
