EPTAlso the HD you linked me is a SATA 6GB/s, the MoBo has 4 3.0GB/s. Will it still work?
Computer Build Resource Thread - Page 430
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Gattaca.usa
131 Posts
Also the HD you linked me is a SATA 6GB/s, the MoBo has 4 3.0GB/s. Will it still work? | ||
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FabledIntegral
United States9232 Posts
On July 21 2011 16:42 Gattaca.usa wrote: The HD5850 needs a 500w PSU, the one you linked me is only 430W Although I know nothing about PSUs, I do know that I've seen SkyR have to explain to people many a times over that "manufacturers have to recommend more than actually needed because they have to account for shitty power supplies and many other irrelevant factors" (or something like that!). Then he'll dump some knowledge on you like "the HD5850 only consumes 120w under load" (number is pulled out of my ass) "while you're processor consumes this much under load" blah blah and "you'll be hardpressed to ever use more than 300w." That's my best guess, at least. | ||
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Lustaf
Canada17 Posts
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Womwomwom
5930 Posts
Here is what Tony Ou from Silverstone has to say about power supplies (in particular, Cooler Master's PSUs): Sad to see they were uninformed about power supply label and sadder still that they were trying to teach their users with this. To add further insult to injury, the Cooler Master Xtreme Power Plus 500 model they used in the video as an example happens to be a typical over-labeling PSUs with clear tell-tale signs: ![[image loading]](http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/5994/1310483400ggwdvulasm12l.jpg) To obtain safety certificates, the specification table and associate rating numbers on the power supply label must be accurate. The manufacturers are free to name the power supply any way they like however, so in this case, Cooler Master placed "500" next to the model name to suggest it as a 500W PSU (and sold as a 500W) as opposed to it being a 450W. It’s a tough business competing in lower wattage range (500W & below) as every dollar counts so there are other types of over-labeling practices too. This is pretty bad for honest manufacturers that do not over-label on wattage and still have to compete on price. And to see Cooler Master trying to educate people with the wrong information, I just couldn’t stand it anymore. Its basically a security blanket for the GPU manufacturer because, as shown above, there are a lot of dishonest mediocre PSUs out there. If you have a 500W PSU and the card suffers from power problems, the problem is not going to be manufacturer's problem but instead its the user's problem for buying such a shit PSU...when you post that sort of problem on a forum and say you have a old Raidmax PSU, you're going to be laughed at for your bad decisions. | ||
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Gattaca.usa
131 Posts
CPU: Intel Core i5-2300 Sandy Bridge 2.8Ghz $185 Motherboard: MSI H61M-P21 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel H61 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard $60 RAM: G.SKILL NS 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) $30 Graphics: XFX HD-685X-ZNDC Radeon HD 6850 1GB 256-bit DDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card with Eyefinity $165 Case: Thermaltake V3 Black Edition VL80001W2Z Black SECC / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case $40 PSU: CORSAIR Builder Series CX430 V2 430W ATX12V v2.3 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply $45 HDD: Western Digital Caviar Blue WD5000AAKX 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive $40 Optical Drive: ASUS 24X DVD Burner - Bulk 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM Black SATA Model DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS - OEM $20 After Shipping and Mail In Rebates it will be: $567.88 If there are any cheaper parts or better alternatives let me know. Also, I have a copy of Windows 7 that I bought for my old desktop, that desktop has died. Can I reuse that copy of windows? | ||
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Womwomwom
5930 Posts
You can reuse your copy of Windows 7. If it doesn't work, a quick phone call to Microsoft generally solves the problem. | ||
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{ToT}ColmA
Japan3260 Posts
 1066 vs 1333 ram, is it noteworthy upgrade? my build aint that old but i am using really old 1066 ram (4gb) and just saw that ram is really _really_ cheap right now, is it worth to spend 36€ for 8gb 1333 ram? | ||
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andynewin
United States105 Posts
I'm gonna have to get a real one if I'm gonna get a real graphics cards probably something with about 300 on 2 12v rails should suffice. | ||
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Gattaca.usa
131 Posts
On July 21 2011 18:46 Womwomwom wrote: That system, component-wise, is fine. You can reuse your copy of Windows 7. If it doesn't work, a quick phone call to Microsoft generally solves the problem. So i have enough Power for the graphics card and everything else? | ||
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Womwomwom
5930 Posts
An easy way to determine how much power you need is by looking at how many PCIe connectors the GPU has. The CPU is rather irrelevant in this case since all current performance models generally have similar power consumption figures. GPUs, on the other hand, can have huge variances in total power draw during load. What wattage PSU your system needs: 0 PCIe connectors required to power GPU: 300W PSU 1 PCIe connectors required to power GPU: 400W PSU 2 PCIe connectors required to power GPU: 500W PSU This is just a rule of thumb but its generally not a bad one to follow if you're not sure how much power you need in a fairly basic single GPU system. There has been a huge push for better power consumption in CPUs so PSU requirements are only going to decrease further and further. | ||
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Gattaca.usa
131 Posts
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On July 21 2011 18:49 {ToT}ColmA wrote: quick question, cant find a bench for it etc 1066 vs 1333 ram, is it noteworthy upgrade? my build aint that old but i am using really old 1066 ram (4gb) and just saw that ram is really _really_ cheap right now, is it worth to spend 36€ for 8gb 1333 ram? http://www.teamliquid.net/blogs/viewblog.php?id=245087 There's some SC2 numbers. http://www.anandtech.com/show/2792/13 First gen i7 other games. http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/memory/display/sandy-bridge-ddr3_7.html#sect0 Sandy Bridge | ||
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Womwomwom
5930 Posts
Mechanical hard disks cannot even reach the speeds required to benefit from SATA 6GB/s so you're not losing anything by not having SATA 6GB/s ports. Current, and future, generation solid state drives will benefit from SATA 6GB/s, however all you have to do is buy a SATA 6GB/s PCIe card when the time comes. | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On July 21 2011 22:30 Womwomwom wrote: Everything SATA is backwards compatible, it will still work fine. Think of them as USB ports - you can still plug a USB3 device into a USB2 port without any problems. Mechanical hard disks cannot even reach the speeds required to benefit from SATA 6GB/s so you're not losing anything by not having SATA 6GB/s ports. Current, and future, generation solid state drives will benefit from SATA 6GB/s, however all you have to do is buy a SATA 6GB/s PCIe card when the time comes. Wom, I love you, but please stop saying GB talking about SATA? Gb/s. Lower case "b". | ||
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HuggyBear
Australia377 Posts
On July 21 2011 22:35 JingleHell wrote: Wom, I love you, but please stop saying GB talking about SATA? Gb/s. Lower case "b". What's the uppercase B? | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
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Ashes
United States362 Posts
Can you guys suggest me a good mouse for SC2 in my budget. I didnt want to make a thread for this. | ||
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SPooNiTe
33 Posts
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Blisse
Canada3710 Posts
On July 21 2011 23:41 Ashes wrote: Hey guys, I am looking to buy a new mouse. My max budget is $40. I have a MX518 which is dying after serving me for 4 yrs. I am sad to see it go. I don't want to buy another MX518 since I wanted to try something new. Can you guys suggest me a good mouse for SC2 in my budget. I didnt want to make a thread for this. All gaming mice that don't have terrible sensors, gimmicky features, and aren't broken are exactly the same. Nothing's good for Starcraft or bad for Starcraft. It's all personal. Logitech G500 is close, but I haven't seen it drop below $45 during sales. The Razer DeathAdder is about $35. Those are the main ones. The HP Voodoo is getting some decent reviews at around $35 on sale. The Mionix 3200 is the same, but at $60 regular. I've never seen it on sale. The Razer Abyssus, I think, and the Cooler Master Storm Sentinel or Inferno round out the rest at about $45. Most gaming mice start at the $40 mark, so $40 really doesn't help. If you're not getting a gaming mouse, just go to BestBuy and try out all the cheap ones for whichever one you like the best. It's actually all just preference. Also, I can't recommend any mouse that doesn't have forward and back buttons, so the ThermalTake eSports is out. The HP Voodoo has interesting side buttons too. | ||
Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
On July 21 2011 18:50 andynewin wrote: I know now how psu work I got a "480 w power supply in a combo deal now I'm regretting it. The thing only has 16A on the 12V rail thats only 180 wats for cpu + hdd and other stuff. I'm gonna have to get a real one if I'm gonna get a real graphics cards probably something with about 300 on 2 12v rails should suffice. Not just that, but with the cheapies, you can't really be sure that even those advertised numbers are accurate. Or maybe they refer to peak values or maybe even like "omg once we got this unit to X watts on +12V before it exploded." Or they could be outright lying. Surely you can't expect the components they used to be of the highest quality, so as they fail, the performance is going to drop or the unit is going to die. And they don't always employ all the standard safety protections, so if something dies, the probability of the power supply taking out the rest of your computer is higher. One thing is certain though: if a power supply has more of its capacity on +5V/+3.3V rather than +12V, then it's a design or a derivative of a design from about the turn of the century or before. Such a design is being crossloaded by using it with a modern system that draws the majority of the power from +12V. This means that the voltage regulation at such a load is probably going to be bad. I guess the point is that you should replace it now rather than later. My suggested picks at this time would be one of these two: Antec Earthwatts Green 380D ($40 shipped, 336W on +12V, 1 PCIe 6-pin): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371033 Antec High Current Gamer 520W ($50 shipped, 480W on +12V, 2 PCIe 6+2-pin): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371047 | ||
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