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Computer Build Resource Thread - Page 409

Forum Index > Tech Support
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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly.
JingleHell
Profile Blog Joined March 2011
United States11308 Posts
Last Edited: 2011-07-11 01:50:44
July 11 2011 01:49 GMT
#8161
On July 11 2011 10:47 pppanthers wrote:
@Madonga

Thanks!

I updated my cart with the i5 2400 and a HD 6850, up to $556 so doing good still

As for the motherboard I would like to get it on amazon would this work?

http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-1-8GHz-BGA559-Motherboard-GA-D525TUD/dp/B00429N0OS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1310348629&sr=1-1


No, you need something that supports socket 1155, not Intel Atom.

Specifically, for the i5 2400, you'd want an H61 or H67 board, depending on features you need. Keeping the price down, probably just an H61 chipset in socket 1155 will do.
Myrmidon
Profile Blog Joined December 2004
United States9452 Posts
July 11 2011 01:50 GMT
#8162
No, that's a BGA 559 motherboard with an Intel Atom processor included.

Any socket LGA 1155 motherboard would be compatible.
Madoga
Profile Joined January 2011
Netherlands471 Posts
Last Edited: 2011-07-11 01:57:06
July 11 2011 01:51 GMT
#8163
You will need a H61 or H67 motherboard. Example on Amazone (not saying you should buy thid one or on amazone)

[edit]
Double ninjad..
pppanthers
Profile Joined July 2011
United States10 Posts
Last Edited: 2011-07-11 02:19:32
July 11 2011 01:54 GMT
#8164
Ok thanks guys!


EDIT-

heres what I have

i5 2400
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004EBUXIA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Sapphire Radeon HD 6850
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047ZGIUK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

motherboard
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QDVCFO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Ram
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002D11C6U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_10?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

HD
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TLIEHC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_9?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Power supply
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G0WPLK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?ie=UTF8&m=A2NG4HB43UEDVL

DVD
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0043TB82I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Case
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GQMHBI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&m=A1XBPHGHAXLHDG

also got a mouse and SC2 for $717
XenOmega
Profile Blog Joined December 2010
Canada2822 Posts
July 11 2011 02:25 GMT
#8165
Dunno if this is the right place to ask, but I'm tryint to update a website for someone. Problem is, I try to open every html file using the HTML editor that is on the host. When opened, the file will usually display the 'special characters correctly'. When I save, and then re-open the file, all special characters are corrupted.

For example, every french letter like é, à, è will appear as ? during the html edit, and will show a combination of strange punctuations when reading the website.

How can I fix this?

Note that to edit the first time, they suggest me ISO 8859-1,
after saved, they propose windows 1252. Even changing the encoding back to ISO won't fix the problem

So right now, to edit the website, I'm stuck re-uploading the original html file and then apply the changes. This is very time consuming... Sometimes, I make a small mistake and have to start again from the start (because I saved the file...)

any idea?

ty
Rachnar
Profile Joined October 2010
France1526 Posts
July 11 2011 02:56 GMT
#8166
clearly not the right place, sorry, but i do believe some people will be able to help you, open your own thread
"What if it's a triple DK ?" "Then we cry" "Prepare your handkerchief then ..."
Myrmidon
Profile Blog Joined December 2004
United States9452 Posts
Last Edited: 2011-07-11 03:03:17
July 11 2011 03:00 GMT
#8167
@pppanthers:

Cooler Master power supplies in general are not that good. The ones that are good--Silent Pro and Silent Pro Gold--aren't always good choices because of the price. (GX450 is okay too I guess.) It's hard to say for that model, however, since they're fond of switching manufacturers and designs all the time for their budget units.

Lack of APFC indicates an older or very cost-cut design, and it doesn't claim a total +12V capacity. If you assume it's 16+16A (best case scenario), that's only 384W anyway, so don't feel like you're getting 500W out of that.

Corsair CX430 V2 should be significantly better, but it's $10 more. Your config is probably not going to top 200W power draw in any game btw. Reviews: 1 2 3
Amazon -- Corsair CX430 V2

If you don't mind the looks, the Cooler Master HAF 912 case has several advantages over the dated Antec 300, for about the same cost.
Amazon -- Cooler Master HAF 912

edit: You can get a CD/DVD burner for the same price as that drive (read-only unless my eyes deceive me), so you may as well get one of those.
samiamquinn
Profile Joined April 2011
Australia137 Posts
Last Edited: 2011-07-11 06:10:11
July 11 2011 05:55 GMT
#8168
Ok, so I've just finished working out my build and I'm pretty happy with what I've got. I just wanted to post it here for you guys to check it and tell me if I've missed something or if there are compatibility issues. Here it is:

+ Show Spoiler +
Intel Core i5 2500K - $225
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=187_346_1184&products_id=16531

ASRock P67-PRO Motherboard B3 - $119
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=138_711_1183&products_id=17013

Gainward GeForce GTX 560 Ti 1GB - $229
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=16906

Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB WD10EALX - $65
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=15933

G.Skill Ripjaws X F3-10666CL9D-8GBXL (2x4GB) DDR3 - $79
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=186_912&products_id=16509

CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ CPU Cooler - $33
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_23_845&products_id=12544

CoolerMaster CM Storm Scout - $99
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=25_31&products_id=11207

Antec Neo Eco 520C 520W Power Supply - $69
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_226&products_id=16290

Samsung SH-222AB SATA DVDRW Drive - $29
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=658_667&products_id=17348

ASUS PCE-N13 802.11 Wireless N PCI-Express Adapter - $39
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=200_328&products_id=14280

Acer V243HLBD 24in Widescreen Monitor - $185
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=558_1212&products_id=16621

Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit with SP1 OEM - $105
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=375_974&products_id=17003

Arctic Cooling MX-4 Thermal Compound (4g) - $9
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_163&products_id=15954

Standard ATX Power Cable - $2
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_228&products_id=3595

Total: $1452

Any help or comments are appreciated. Thanks
Myrmidon
Profile Blog Joined December 2004
United States9452 Posts
July 11 2011 06:18 GMT
#8169
The Hyper 212+ comes with thermal compound, like most aftermarket coolers. I guess having extra isn't a bad thing, but it's not necessary. I'm not up to date on what's the best in terms of temperature (we're talking a few degrees difference here), ease of application, etc. though.

That all looks fine to me though. Just to make sure you realize, the AsRock P67 Pro (not Pro3) has no USB3 ports, which is unusual for a motherboard that expensive.
samiamquinn
Profile Joined April 2011
Australia137 Posts
July 11 2011 06:21 GMT
#8170
Yeah I realise that. Is it worth $16 to get USB3?
Juddas
Profile Joined January 2011
768 Posts
July 11 2011 06:27 GMT
#8171
On July 11 2011 15:21 samiamquinn wrote:
Yeah I realise that. Is it worth $16 to get USB3?


yes.

16 dollars now will save prevent you from having to upgrade your entire system in a couple of years whenever 3.0 is the standard. plus the speed is really nice
skyR
Profile Joined July 2009
Canada13817 Posts
July 11 2011 06:35 GMT
#8172
On July 11 2011 15:27 Juddas wrote:
Show nested quote +
On July 11 2011 15:21 samiamquinn wrote:
Yeah I realise that. Is it worth $16 to get USB3?


yes.

16 dollars now will save prevent you from having to upgrade your entire system in a couple of years whenever 3.0 is the standard. plus the speed is really nice


You don't need to upgrade your entire system for USB3 -.- there are USB3 add-on cards you can add to any motherboard with an available PCI-E x1 or PCI slot.

Very few devices actually are USB3 and unless you bought some in the last few years, you won't benefit from having it.
samiamquinn
Profile Joined April 2011
Australia137 Posts
July 11 2011 06:51 GMT
#8173
I don't have anything that is USB3 so I think I'll just stick with the motherboard I've got. Thanks everyone for your help
samiamquinn
Profile Joined April 2011
Australia137 Posts
Last Edited: 2011-07-11 07:00:16
July 11 2011 06:59 GMT
#8174
Is there much of a difference in performance between the Crucial M4 and the OCZ Vertex 2? Also how much better is the GTX 560 Ti Twin Frozr II + Show Spoiler +
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193_1193&products_id=16578
than the regular GTX 560 Ti?+ Show Spoiler +
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193_1193&products_id=16906
Myrmidon
Profile Blog Joined December 2004
United States9452 Posts
Last Edited: 2011-07-11 07:14:14
July 11 2011 07:04 GMT
#8175
Current USB3 ports on motherboards (except for those with FM1 socket with A75 chipset) are handled through 3rd party controller chips interfaced on the back end through a PCIe lane (or two?) to the motherboard chipset. Using a card to add support is doing pretty much the same thing, using one of the couple USB3 interface chips available, connecting it on the motherboard to a PCIe or PCI slot and having that routed again to the motherboard chipset.

It's not a big deal either way. You can always get one of those add-on cards if you ever buy a USB3 device. Currently it's just things like flash drives (only high-end ones), external hard drives, video capture devices, and the like that use USB3. Expect it to become completely standard on new computers starting next year, since it will be supported directly by the motherboard chipsets then.

The Pro3 version also has a beefier voltage regulation section for CPU power, but overclocking a i5-2500k doesn't take too much power, so it's probably not going to make a difference unless you're benchmarking very high overclocks as a hobby.


Crucial M4 64GB should be a bit faster than the Vertex 2 60GB in real-world usage, but not by a lot. However, Vertex 2 failure rates seem to be a little higher. edit: it's hard to say for sure though, since there's not a lot of data. Also, there aren't many reviews of the lower-capacity models since the higher-capacity models have higher performance, so obviously those get sent out to reviewers. I think all Vertex 2 60GB models out in the wild now probably use 25nm flash now, so even if you do find a review on a Vertex 2 60GB, the performance might be different (read: worse) now.

The MSI Twin Frozr II model has a better cooling solution and probably better voltage regulation components on board as well? That means it can probably be overclocked higher. It also comes with a factory overclock by default, from 822 MHz to 880 MHz. It's probably not worth the $40 difference though, unless you read something particularly atrocious about the Gainward model.
samiamquinn
Profile Joined April 2011
Australia137 Posts
July 11 2011 07:14 GMT
#8176
Ok, thanks everyone I think I'll just leave everything as it is. This thread is really really helpful
HopLight
Profile Blog Joined January 2009
Sweden999 Posts
July 11 2011 13:56 GMT
#8177
So I am currently visiting the US and plan to upgrade to a new computer while I’m there (huge price differential vs Sweden). I’m planning to build a pretty specific computer but feel like I don’t quite have the knowledge necessary to truly optimize the build and was hoping the insightful userbase at TL could help me out.

First things first, I’m building a computer using the Silverstone FT03 (http://www.anandtech.com/show/4294/silverstone-ft03-nothing-else-like-it) I have already purchased the case so that part will not change. This creates three specific demands –microATX motherboard as well as a slim slot loading dvd player/burner and a modular PSU. Heat may also become an issue, so I’m willing to add extra fans/switch stock fans

Secondly, I already own a gtx 590 which I plan to use for this build, so no graphics card but a motherboard which supports this card to its full potential.

What is your budget?

My budget is around 1500$ (not including what I already payed for the case and the graphics card). This is the budget before mail in rebates.

What is your resolution?

I game at 1920*1080, might increase in the future.

What are you using it for?
Gaming as well as very heavy; word, excel (1gb+ worth of data at a time) photoshop, and a few hundred tabs in Firefox/IE/Chrome (I use all at the same time). So essentially I want a good gaming computer that can handle a LOT of other stuff. 8Gb of RAM is a minimum, though I’d consider more.

What is your upgrade cycle?

I am not planning on any upgrades whatsoever for the next 3 years.

When do you plan on building it?
I will be ordering everything 20-25 July.

Do you plan on overclocking?
Ram + Processor, yes probably.

Do you need an Operating System?
Yes, windows 7.

Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire?

I think the heat output of 2 gtx 590 would be a bit extreme. So no.

Where are you buying your parts from?
I prefer Newegg but would be willing to consider another alternative if that was significantly cheaper.

So what are my current main thoughts:
I want a SSD, at least 120Gb in size, stability is key for the SSD, I don’t want it breaking down on me. I’ve been recommended the 510 Elm crest intel one, which I will probably go with.

I want this build to last for good gaming performance for at least 2 years and preferably beyond.
I need separate storage, not that much though a cheap 1tb drive would do.

I know my graphics card is overkill for 1920*1080, but I already own it and I expect future games to be more demanding, even at 1920*1080.

I don’t want a crappy power supply, I have had so many give up on me. Also the PSU should be modular because of the case, preferably also from Silverstone to keep things neat and tidy.

I would prefer the i7 for all the applications I will be running but for a significant performance boost in other areas I would be willing to switch it out.
Genzo
Profile Joined September 2010
Denmark207 Posts
July 11 2011 14:33 GMT
#8178
building a new pc, so far this is what ive got

Intel Core i7 2600 3.40 Ghz (4 Kerner - 8 Tråde) [Sandy Bridge]
P8P67 Deluxe B3 Sandy Bridge
Kingston DDR3 - 1333 Mhz - 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) Value
Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 1GB
Intel 320 Series 120GB SSD (WINDOWS DISK)
Corsair 750 Watt

How does this look?


Other MB to choose from
DP67BG-B3 Sandy Bridge
Maximus IV Extreme Sandy Bridge (really expensive, rather not)

i used this danish website to build my pc
http://www.proshop.dk/CustomPCBuilder/ConfigurationManager.aspx?templateName=Gaming#
Myrmidon
Profile Blog Joined December 2004
United States9452 Posts
July 11 2011 14:40 GMT
#8179
@HopLight:

I'm not convinced everything you're doing will really benefit from an i7 appreciably, but on that budget you can get pretty much whatever you want. Grab the i7-2600k over the i5-2500k if you occasionally want that Photoshop operation to finish like 10% faster, or if you want an extra couple Flash videos to be simultaneously playing in the background.

You can also easily just get 16GB of RAM on that budget, but getting 8GB now and adding 8GB later if really necessary probably wouldn't be a problem.

Intel 510 is good, but you can also just get an Intel 320 160GB or Intel 320 300GB. Those have the 5 year warranty and are actually using Intel's controller, unlike the 510, if you believe that it might be more reliable (it might be).

Since you're getting a large SSD, I'd use a sub-7200 rpm mechanical drive for the lower temperature. The case is not good at cooling hard drives.

Since budget is not really a concern, I'd get the Silverstone Strider Plus 750W (ST75F-P). It's superior to the 600W model and particularly the 500W model, not like you actually need 750W. The Strider Plus Gold units aren't any better, just more efficient. Then get the short cable set.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817256059
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812162010


@Genzo:

What's the computer for? Gaming and most tasks, i7-2600 is not better than i5-2500. You may as well get the k version for overclocking support though. You don't need such expensive motherboards unless you're really taking advantage of their features and support, which you probably won't.

The configuration as is only really needs a 400W power supply. In fact, the whole configuration and options given don't look that good. A HD 6870 is good but seriously underpowered compared to the wasteful excess elsewhere.
Genzo
Profile Joined September 2010
Denmark207 Posts
July 11 2011 14:53 GMT
#8180
@myrmidon what do you mean underpowered?

and yeah its for gaming
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