|
When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. |
Hm, lets start from the beginning.
You're looking at an AMD AM3 system at the moment, because that is the only socket which can be upgradeable. It has been going around that Bulldozer (high end AMD cpu planned for the future) will be able to be used on AM3, but it is unknown as to whether or not the current chipsets will support them. If you want upgradeability, you really don't have a choice other than AMD.
Since you are going with an AMD system, you have to choose either CrossFireX or SLI. Yes, SLI scales much better than CrossFireX in just about every situation, but CFX isn't necessarily bad. Since you are going with AMD, I would suggest sticking with CrossFire since SLI motherboards require an Nvidia chipset (which are generally bad). While CrossFireX definitely doesn't scale as well as SLI, there is room for improvement, and it certainly isn't bad.
I would suggest buying aftermarket heatsinks/fans with your new computer because installation is easier that way.
For motherboard,
You're looking at this ASUS
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131655
or this Gigabyte
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128441
Both ensure full X16/X16 bandwidth for your CrossFire setup, and support CrossFire (but not SLI)
If you want SLI
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131636
full X16/X16 support, but does not support CrossFire.
HAF 922 case
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119197
Has great airflow for your components
750TX would be great for your new computer!
CPU: Athlon II X3 440 or Athlon II X3 445 would be your best bet. Both should be around $80
As for RAM, any set of 4GB GSkill DDR3 (cheapest you can find) will fit the bill quite nicely
|
With the cost of the beefy PSU, motherboard with lots of PCI-E lanes, and nice case, that's already at the $350-400 level or so. If you want to say in budget, you might have to save a little money in the short term by skimping on the to-be-replaced components.
An Athlon II X2 would be cheaper, of course, as would a GPU like a Radeon HD 4650. You can also try 2 GB DDR3 RAM for now.
|
Not sure if this absolutely fits here, but I don't think it warrants a new thread.
About 2 weeks ago lightning took out my DSL modem. I got it replaced but I haven't been able to get my computer to recognize any ethernet cables I put into it. I've tried different cables, I've tried running the cable from different ports on the modem, I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling the LAN drivers from the mobo website (all longshots, but hey) and nothing works. The modem will hook up via ethernet to other computers, though, so that's not the problem. I've been using the USB connection since I got the new modem.
So, I have two questions. First, do I even need to worry about using the USB connection instead of ethernet? Second, if so, what's a good option for an expansion card? My bandwidth is only rated at roughly 3 Mbps down and 300 Kbps up, so I wouldn't need much. I've got a Gigabyte P55A-UD3 mobo with 2 free PCI slots and, depending on the card's height and width, maybe a free PCIe x1 slot.
|
I got a question, does the motherboard affect the way you chose your hardrive?
|
I've also had lightning kill a DSL modem. Somehow, the router that the modem was plugged into survived, but the Ethernet port on the Xbox 360 connected to the router did not.
I'm not sure how the networking stack is implemented when sending traffic through USB rather than Ethernet, but I think it's just Ethernet packets encapsulated in USB. Did you have to install a driver? In theory, just using USB shouldn't be a problem, as far as I know. In any case, USB transfer rates are way above what is required for you.
Maybe it's just best to test the network connection. In the very least, open up the command line (cmd.exe) and run something like "ping -n 10 aaa.bbb.ccc.ddd", where aaa.bbb.ccc.ddd is the IP address of your modem. 192.168.1.254 is a common default setting, but yours is likely different. Look up what it is. If you're having trouble figuring out the IP address, run "ipconfig" in the command line. It should be your default gateway IP address I think.
If the ping times are all 1ms or less, I wouldn't worry about the connection, unless later on you run into some strange network issues.
In any case, PCI Ethernet cards are like $8, so that's not much of an investment. Gigabit Ethernet is unnecessary.
|
On August 11 2010 12:57 lethal111 wrote:
I got a question, does the motherboard affect the way you chose your hardrive?
Generally it doesn't.
If you decide to get a Crucial C300 SSD (or plan on getting a SSD in the future), you should get a motherboard with SATA 6GB/s to utilize its speeds optimally.
|
|
|
@FragKrag
Could you explain a little bit why buying aftermarket heatsinks/fans makes installation is easier that way?
@FragKrag, @R04R
Thanks though I guess it wasnt clear, my budget is $600 + cost of monitor. So my monitor is roughly $200 meaning my budget is $600 + $200.
|
I think he means buy it right now instead of later so you don't have to go through the hassle later on of removing the motherboard from the case and disassembling all the parts etc.
What's your zip code or a zip code near you? The shipping charges vary greatly for Canada so I'm not sure how much I can stretch the budget.
|
Hey guys, my stuff has arrived (- the graphics card) and it turns out ive made a mistake and ordered an OEM version of windows 7. Does anyone know a way for me to install it or will i just have to return it and try to get the normal version.
Thanks
|
Hyrule19208 Posts
The OEM versions install like the normal versions. The difference is that you don't get the same packaging and no Microsoft support.
|
On August 11 2010 18:03 mishimaBeef wrote:
@FragKrag
Could you explain a little bit why buying aftermarket heatsinks/fans makes installation is easier that way?
@FragKrag, @R04R
Thanks though I guess it wasnt clear, my budget is $600 + cost of monitor. So my monitor is roughly $200 meaning my budget is $600 + $200.
installing an after market heat sink after the fact is a huge pain in the ass, you have to take everything apart, remove the motherboard, install a back plate (usually), then put it all together. Even if you upgrade the cpu later and have to remove the heat sink, not having to remove the motherboard from your case is a huge plus
|
Thanks Tofu but i think i may have a bigger problem.
The box says OEM System Builder Pack Intended for system builders ONLY. Does this mean i have to have a license?
The link to it is here http://www.ebuyer.com/product/173791
Any help would really be apreciated
Edit: Would i be able to build my computer now and then install the graphics card at a later date?
|
Hyrule19208 Posts
The System Builders versions of Windows are for smaller companies who are building their computer from generic parts and reselling as opposed to a retailer (like Dell or HP). It allows specific branding by the company and things like that. That's all I know about System Builder.
|
Strictly speaking yes, you must be registered or what ever with Microsoft's partner framework. But no one in the business really cares about that.
Put it this way, it was meant for say a shop that builds computers to sell you the OEM and include it in the price, However, in your case, you've decided to build the parts yourself.
The shop will obviously qualify as a system builder and you building yourself violates nothing because the Shop can just say that they are the one who build the computer and just didn't charge you any fee. It's a loop hole and no one really cares, Microsoft do run audits on shops though so most of them have to sell OEM pack + a certain number of components to stay on Microsoft's good side.
So in the end, its like you bought a computer from Dell or HP and that copy of Windows 7 belongs to you.
To sum it up, there is no obligation on your part to get a System builder license (or what ever it is called).
|
Will i be able to install it though without the license?
|
Yes.
One thing though, the license of your OEM Windows 7 is tied to the motherboard of your machine so if you upgrade your computer later on, you will have to ring Microsoft (and lie) to get them to issue you a new key. :/
|
|
|
On August 11 2010 18:07 R04R wrote:
I think he means buy it right now instead of later so you don't have to go through the hassle later on of removing the motherboard from the case and disassembling all the parts etc.
What's your zip code or a zip code near you? The shipping charges vary greatly for Canada so I'm not sure how much I can stretch the budget.
Are you saying the heatsink installation requires motherboard to come out but the CPU re-installation doesn't?
My zip code is in area of Toronto, Ontario.
---
tofucake wrote:
The OEM versions install like the normal versions. The difference is that you don't get the same packaging and no Microsoft support.
Could you define Microsoft support please? I was thinking of getting OEM Win 7 Home Premium 64 Bit on my build. Is this a good idea?
---
[QUOTE]KOFgokuon wrote:
installing an after market heat sink after the fact is a huge pain in the ass, you have to take everything apart, remove the motherboard, install a back plate (usually), then put it all together. Even if you upgrade the cpu later and have to remove the heat sink, not having to remove the motherboard from your case is a huge plusQUOTE]
Same question as above, heat sink re-installation harder than CPU? Also can you suggest a good heat sink? The future purpose of it is to run a high end CPU in the future (say Phenom II X6 or better).
|
again, heat sink installation involves removing the motherboard from the case to install a backplate, which is a huge pain in the ass (not all have backplates, but a lot do). Taking the heat sink off to swap out a cpu is relatively painless
as for what heat sink,
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0315397
is a good one, decent air cooling for cheap (relatively). If you want water cooling, you'll have to ask someone else
|
|
|
|
|
|
EPT
