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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. |
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Thanks for the advice Loser777! I have heard the onboard sound can be quite a pain and as for the intergrated graphics card in the motherboard, I'm just going to use that as a fallback in case by graphics card fails.
I don't know what a black edition is or what a freezer is but I assume that you mean my fan by freezer, do you think that it will be able to keep cool with all the fans from the cooler master alone or is the fan necessary?
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On August 12 2010 13:56 ReaverDrop! wrote:
Thanks for the advice Loser777! I have heard the onboard sound can be quite a pain and as for the intergrated graphics card in the motherboard, I'm just going to use that as a fallback in case by graphics card fails.
I don't know what a black edition is or what a freezer is but I assume that you mean my fan by freezer, do you think that it will be able to keep cool with all the fans from the cooler master alone or is the fan necessary?
Every processor comes with a heatsink + fan assembly that is commonly referred to as the cooler. Case fans are used to encourage circulation of air (to intake and to exhaust). The processor you bought comes with a cooler -the Arctic 64 Freezer you bought is a replacement cooler which you do not need. Overclockers often buy replacement coolers since the stock cooling is often inadequate when you overclock, but the Arctic Freezer you are buying isn't really any better than the stock cooling anyway. I was confused why you chose to buy it.
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Thanks Loser777! I would've bought a useless fan without your help! I owe you one champ.
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@ReaverDrop!, newer motherboards, although you didn't pick one, come with very good onboard audio nowadays. Also yes, the Arctic 64 isn't worth buying over the stock cooler that comes with your processor. If you were planning on purchasing an aftermarket cooler for you CPU I'd spend a bit more on something that is newer in technology.
I'm currently putting together a build that is more optimal for you budget. Hold on a bit 
Are you planning on getting another GTX 460 in the future? If so that will require a motherboard that is SLI capable.
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ReaverDtop:
Onboard sound is a pain in what way? Drivers or sound quality? Unless you have $100+ headphones, sensitive earphones, or equivalent quality speakers that take analog inputs, the onboard sound usually isn't going to be a problem (bottleneck, you could say) in terms of sound quality. Even then, some of the best onboard audio chipsets are about as good as the cheap sound cards. Lots of sound cards have driver issues too.
In any case, the Creative X-Fi cards are better if you need EAX positional audio, though recently EAX has been going out of favor. EAX is a proprietary product of Creative, so other cards are doing EAX emulation. In terms of value for money in terms of sound quality, the ASUS cards tend to be the best, though Auzentech is good too.
A 2.6 GHz Athlon II X4 might not be the best idea if your priority is gaming. Most games have trouble occupying a third core much, not to mention a fourth. A higher-clocked Athlon II X3 would be slightly better in games at the same or slightly less cost.
High-performance RAM has little benefits except in performance overclocking scenarios. The differences in functional RAM modules is pretty small, so you can just go with cheap 2x2 GB DDR3 RAM.
IMHO you might as well get a motherboard that supports USB3, since it's eventually going to be in widespread adoption. Of course, you can always get an expansion card for USB3 later. Your choice.
Also, you can get a lower-wattage PSU, which will save some money. 650W is about twice what those components use, realistically, so you can be safe with a decent 400W unit.
edit: looks like R04R to the rescue, nevermind
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Yeah Arctic Freezer was good...back in 2005? I still have my AC64 box as a collector's item from the old days. Regarding the retail cooler - after hearing stories of it causing the 'sink/CPU to get stuck together, I would simply recommend wiping it and using something else.
Yeah, you mostly likely won't need to remove the CPU once it's installed, but if it ever comes down to that (or you're upgrading), I would say the trouble would be worth it.
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Wow thanks everyone for the great advice! mav451 thanks for letting me know about the cpu's problem and ro4r thanks for putting an optimal build together for me! Thanks myrmidon for letting me know about all the upgrades that I can get in comparison to the stuff I was thinking about before.
The problem with the sound on the motherboard is that it pops and crackles from time to time, this Eax enviromental sound stuff sounds pretty rad though!
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Some motherboards or systems seem to have issues with onboard sound like video cards, hard drives, etc. causing EMI or something like that. Or maybe it's other components' activity causing significant power supply ripple that's being reproduced on the headphone out jack. It's either that or an inadequate audio buffer that's causing pops/crackles. In any case, try the sound on a new motherboard first. You can add in a cheap(er) sound card or an external USB sound card later if need be.
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The HD 5850 is a bit overpriced for what it performs at (surprisingly)
A GTX 460 1GB or a GTX 470 1280MB is a better buy
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Wow Ro4R all this stuff is great and about 300$ cheaper than what I was going to pay! Thank you so much!
Just a couple of questions, I was really dead set on getting the cooler master http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119077 and since a good case is integral to a computer I was wondering if you recommend the Antec black steel over the cooler master?
Also I have no idea what an Extra SATA Cable does but I'm sure that by including it you have saved me from destroying myself in 4pool rush anger.
Finally I was wondering if there was a site which was good for explaining how to put a computer like this together?
Thanks again.
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I know 460 is god-tier price/performance, but ~$50 more for about 5-10% more performance (and him not needing to overclock if he hits a wall in the 460), why not.
The Centurion doesn't look cool enough, no puns (but wait, which one does he mean then?). If you want to go Cooler Master I'd say CM690 II for better cable management and airflow(you really wanted that see-through panel didn't ya? If so, you can contact them directly and order one for about $20 for the CM690 II).
SATA Cable is to transfer information between your Hard drive and motherboard, or your optical drive and motherboard. The motherboard you're buying only comes with 1, so you need another for the other.
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Thanks for taking into consideration my ability with no idea how to use overclocking R04R and your right about the Centurion not looking cool enough (hilarious pun lmao). I think that the Antec you suggested should be good enough since it is heralded as the perfect computer case!
See-through panels are gnarly and all but I'm thinking of getting a sweet spray/ LED modifications done to the exterior of this antec case and light it up like a Christmas tree.
I don't know how to thank you for your help but if you ever need anything pm me and I'll see what I can do!
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So I'm considering picking up another hard drive before heading off to college, is there a reason as to why everyone seems to be using Samsung's Spinpoint over WD?
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Cheaper (actually much cheaper right now for the 1tb version $60) vs. a $90 WD black 1tb and similar if not better performance. Although I believe WD beats it in some points; FragKrag knows. WD is still good, especially the 5 year warranties. Dem builds here are budget builds!
If you're going purely for storage in the 1.5tb or 2gb variation I'd pick up a WD Green
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@RO4R and Loser777
Thank you so much!!
I guess the last question I have for now is, what monitor should I get? for around $70-$80?
Can you get a decent monitor for that price?
Edit: Also what case is easiest for building? as I am very inexperienced
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Samsung's Spinpoint F3 is cheaper (much cheaper), has same capacity and better sequential reads and writes. The WD Black wins on access times, though not by too much to justify a $30-40 premium.
The CM 690 II is a fairly easy case to build in, and I don't think you can get a monitor for around $70-80 and be satisfied. Downgrade the GPU to the GTX 460, and spend the extra money on the monitor.
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On August 13 2010 04:32 Fiendish wrote:
@RO4R and Loser777
Thank you so much!!
I guess the last question I have for now is, what monitor should I get? for around $70-$80?
Can you get a decent monitor for that price?
Edit: Also what case is easiest for building? as I am very inexperienced
All cases are usually the same in terms of user friendliness, though some have "no-tool" systems where basically you don't even need a screwdriver to setup. I used the thermaltake element g, and it was my first computer I ever built, took me about 4 hours but that's because I had to troubleshoot in the end because my motherboard power cable was loose and didn't realize it ><. Coolermaster, thermaltake, and antec are three brands I'd recommend.
As for monitor, I doubt you can find a good LCD for that price, I think even 17" LCDs are around $90-$100. I would save up for a 22".
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I have to say that Thermaltake have some of the ugliest cases known to man -_-
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EPT
