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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. | ||
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XenOmega
Canada2822 Posts
Perhaps i should send an email first to see if they would pricematch? That said, am I seeing it wrong, or does Best direct really have the 6970 so low? http://www.bestdirect.ca/products/232364/Diamond/6970PE52G/ vs NCIX http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=57704&vpn=6970PE52G&manufacture=Diamond If NCIX accept the pricematch, its basically 310$ for a 6970 2gb | ||
Womwomwom
5930 Posts
If you can't get everything all at once, or pretty damn close to all at once, don't bother. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
A 6970 for $340 isn't shockingly low, especially in Canada =p | ||
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XenOmega
Canada2822 Posts
 Well, for now, ordering my Heatsink. And will continue to consider what I can get with that 250 gift card ^^ | ||
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SSJJaedong
United States20 Posts
Case- Antec Nine Hundred ($68.50) After Tax Motherboard- MSI P67A-GD65 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard ($154.99) After Tax GPU- MSI R6850 Cyclone PE Radeon HD 6850 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card with Eyefinity ($167.55) After Tax CPU- Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 6MB L3 Cache LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor ($197.09) After Tax Power Supply- Heat Sink- Ram- G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL9D-8GBXL ($64.99) After Tax SSD/Hard Drive- CD/DVD/Blu-Ray- Total : $653.12 My cousin plans on helping me OC, so i'm debating on which one to get. There is; http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103057 and http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233082&Tpk=Xigmatek gaia Also, since i do plan on OCing now, what kind of power supply should i plan on? | ||
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Womwomwom
5930 Posts
Please don't get an Antec 900. It is a bad case, I don't care if it has a million positive reviews because you can do better than that. A good 450W - 500W PSU, like those from the XFX Core series, is all you need provided you're not going to connect 8 hard drives to your computer or something. | ||
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SSJJaedong
United States20 Posts
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Womwomwom
5930 Posts
People need to understand that all gaming cases have basically the same amounts of airflow and benchmarking them is pretty silly because they'll all perform more or less the same if you give all of them identical fans. The only times where it matters is with novel designs like the Silverstone FT03 where you might see whether or not those angled 80mm fans actually do anything. If you've already ordered and can't get cancel it without paying cancellation fees don't bother because it'll still work well as a case. I don't know how Newegg works with order cancellations because I don't like in the States but I'm guessing they wouldn't be too happy about it. | ||
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SSJJaedong
United States20 Posts
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Womwomwom
5930 Posts
There are a lot of others, as I said case design is all too similar between companies, out there if you do a bit of research. | ||
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SSJJaedong
United States20 Posts
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
Check thermal benchies on cases designed for silence, and novelty cases, like Lanboy Air. Basically, with a case, check the benchmarks and reviews for everything it isn't bragging about. Unless you're doing multi GPU or heavy OC's, any case with holes and fans in it will stop your PC from frying. Performance only matters much if there's some other factor making temps hard to control. | ||
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ensign_lee
United States1178 Posts
Switched out my Cooler Master Hyper 212 for a Corsair H50. The difference was...negligible. O.o 100% load with Hyper 212 at 3.7 Ghz - 55-60 celcius 100% load with Corsair H50 at 3.7 Ghz - 55-60 So for anyone deciding on aftermarket coolers, the Hyper 212 at like half the cost of the H50 does the job just as well. Of course, with the H50, you're increasing your e-penis size saying that you have liquid cooling, and it is smaller (the 212 may not fit in all cases), but yeah. I was surprised, especially considering how many people on newegg were reporting ridiculously cool temps under load. Oh, and side effect, since the radiator is taking up one of my case's rear exhaust fans, the inside of my case got considerably hotter with two GPUs under 100% load all the time. before, my 5850's would do their thing and be at about 70. Now one is at 80 and the other is at 90 unless I crank the fan speed up to around 80-90% by overriding the automatic fan control. hah. | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
Oh, and of course, you can avoid even small amounts of plumbing, use less power, and actually, to the initiated, an OC stable on air is more e-peen than one with liquid, especially half-ass liquid like that. LN2 on the other hand... that's some e-peen. | ||
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Womwomwom
5930 Posts
The price you pay for is really mounting method (more expensive coolers, like Noctua and Prolimatech, have extremely easy and consistent mounting methods), form factor, and whether or not you want to run something extremely quietly. The Corsair H50 is meant to be on an intake fan and not on an exhaust fan, which it does really well in small form factor builds that are limited in height. | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On June 14 2011 23:43 Womwomwom wrote: Didn't we say something like the watercooling being pretty pointless...computer parts don't produce enough heat to use the most of it...I mean some enthusiasts have radiators the size of ones you see in small cars. Of course the difference between coolers is negligible, there's only so many ways you can design a slab of aluminum with heatpipes. The price you pay for is really mounting method (more expensive coolers, like Noctua and Prolimatech, have extremely easy and consistent mounting methods), form factor, and whether or not you want to run something extremely quietly. The Corsair H50 is meant to be on an intake fan and not on an exhaust fan, which it does really well in small form factor builds that are limited in height. Actually, some enthusiasts DO use radiators from small cars. | ||
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ensign_lee
United States1178 Posts
BTW, is a gentle typhoon AP-14 considered an exhaust fan or an intake fan? | ||
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Nate.F
918 Posts
Unless you're a hardware enthusiast/love having huge e-peen, trying to get the highest 3D Mark scores and love overclocking, will you need watercooling. Btw, interesting news - remember EVGA SR-2? http://www.techpowerup.com/146970/EVGA-Readies-Dual-LGA2011-X79-Motherboard.html Imagine that beast folding.  | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
Exhaust = Pushes air out. Intake = pulls air in. Crazy. | ||
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ensign_lee
United States1178 Posts
On June 15 2011 00:09 JingleHell wrote: The direction the fan faces determines whether it's exhaust or intake. Generally exhausts and intakes are lined up to move air in one direction. Exhaust = Pushes air out. Intake = pulls air in. Crazy. haha. That's what I thought at first, but I thought maybe there were fans specifically designed to do on or the other based on his post. :D I guess I can switch the fan direction around tonight hah | ||
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