EPTThanks for the tip, as far as SLI goes though, should I get the same GFX card or would it be okay if I got a more powerful nVidia card? Which is easier in terms of installing/making it run properly?
Computer Build Resource Thread - Page 181
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Perseverance
Japan2800 Posts
Thanks for the tip, as far as SLI goes though, should I get the same GFX card or would it be okay if I got a more powerful nVidia card? Which is easier in terms of installing/making it run properly? | ||
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Najda
United States3765 Posts
On March 17 2011 04:10 skyR wrote: + Show Spoiler + @Perseverance This depends on what you have in mind for the computer. You could probably save money and downgrade the ram to 1333mhz and downgrade the power supply to 600w or even 500w if you have no intention of doing SLI in the future. @Najda You probably want a low-end board such as the Gigabyte UD3, ASUS P8P67-M, or MSI C45. Just use this to help you decide which board has the necessary connectors and features that will suit your needs: http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/916189-official-intel-p67-sandy-bridge-motherboard.html Are you going to be overclocking? If not, get the core i5 2500 instead because the only difference between the standard and the K is an unlocked multiplier (used for overclocking) and beefier integrated graphics. If you're going to be playing at 1920x1080, I'd also suggest getting a 6850 instead. $180 ($170 after promotional gift card, $150 after mail in rebate) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150505 Awesome, thanks for your help  I've updated my list with the things you suggested (and also the monitor/keyboard I plan on getting) and plan on getting it this weekend. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
Sorry I don't really understand your question. Are you asking whether to SLI two lesser cards (2x GTX 560) as opposed to getting a single flagship card (GTX 580)? The GTX 560 is already a very powerful card for SC2. There is no need to SLI them if you are playing at 1920x1080 resolution and there is also no reason to get a GTX 570 / 580 unless you have money to spare. In most cases, it is better to go for a more powerful single card solution than it is to SLI. @Najda If you're not overclocking and won't plan to do it in the future than I'd also suggest getting an H67 board instead of a P67, it should save you another ~$50. The P67 allows you to overclock while the H67 does not. | ||
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Najda
United States3765 Posts
On March 17 2011 05:27 skyR wrote: @Perseverance Sorry I don't really understand your question. Are you asking whether to SLI two lesser cards (2x GTX 560) as opposed to getting a single flagship card (GTX 580)? The GTX 560 is already a very powerful card for SC2. There is no need to SLI them if you are playing at 1920x1080 resolution and there is also no reason to get a GTX 570 / 580 unless you have money to spare. In most cases, it is better to go for a more powerful single card solution than it is to SLI. @Najda If you're not overclocking and won't plan to do it in the future than I'd also suggest getting an H67 board instead of a P67, it should save you another ~$50. The P67 allows you to overclock while the H67 does not. Does it matter that the H67 boards are Micro ATX while I have an ATX tower? | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
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Anjuu
United States57 Posts
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a176
Canada6688 Posts
On March 17 2011 05:51 Anjuu wrote: @a176 thanks for the input most of the things you listed are already items I own (I think in my spreadsheet it lists what're new additions and what's existing. The new parts are the RAM, CPU, Mobo. gotcha. i would definitely jump on that ram offer now even if the mobo's aren't available yet. $75 for 8gb of ram is a steal! | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
Parts were: Core i5-2400 Gigabyte P67A UD3 -- was one of the cheapest full ATX mobos with SATA 6Gbps Gigabyte HD 5670 1GB GDDR3 G.Skill 2 x 4GB DDR3 1333MHz RAM Intel 510 Series 120GB SSD -- you see where the money went lol Lite-on Blu-Ray Drive OEM Antec NSK4482B -- includes Earthwatts Green 380D Windows 7 64-bit Ultimate -- through school, $20 Asus Xonar DG -- from previous computer, to drive Beyerdynamics DT-770 Pro/80 ohms Yes, there's no mechanical hard drive in there, just externals for backup. I was curious about the case; maybe something else and say a S12II Bronze 380W would have been better. | ||
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DystopiaX
United States16236 Posts
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Punkdp1p3r
United States30 Posts
On March 16 2011 10:16 Punkdp1p3r wrote: Question (not overclocked) Intel core i7 U 640 @ 1.2 Ghz Nvidia GeForce GT 335M 8GB RAM Intel HD graphics 11" laptop 500 HDD LED monitor LED lit keyboard ~$2500 minus cost of OS (windows 7 ultimate, MS Office 2010, wireless router, mouse, headphones, and anit-virus) so about 2000. 3 hour battery life at high performance, idk if that is considered. Good buy? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- sounds like alienware m11 specs hehehe, it was. I was just wondering what the community thought on the specs compared to price. TBH, it was my dream since gradeschool to own an alienware e ver since I saw an add back in the early 2000's, so I was purchasing no matter what. Of course, now that I know computers much better thanks to my college and job, I will buy much smarter in the next purchase. | ||
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miL.
Canada93 Posts
My local store's website now says that they sell the Asus P8P67, P8P67 LE, and the GA-P67A-UD3. Both skyR and Myrmidon thought that I should get a lower version than PRO, but I'm at a loss as to which one I need for my build. The only major upgrade I plan on doing to this computer is potentially adding an SSD, but I'm pretty sure I should be able to add the SSD to either version. Just looking for conformation as to which one I really need, Thanks. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
The primary difference between the UD3 and standard P8P67 is that the P8P67 comes with 2 extra SATA ports, UEFI BIOS, and more power phases. You can see the differences between all the motherboards here: http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/916189-official-intel-p67-sandy-bridge-motherboard.html | ||
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a176
Canada6688 Posts
On March 17 2011 15:33 skyR wrote: Get the UD3, pricematch to $125: http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=59418&promoid=1280 The primary difference between the UD3 and standard P8P67 is that the P8P67 comes with 2 extra SATA ports, UEFI BIOS, and more power phases. You can see the differences between all the motherboards here: http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/916189-official-intel-p67-sandy-bridge-motherboard.html but the asus looks better ... and UEFI bios more hawt! | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
The rumors all talk about Furmark somehow pushing your card to unsafe voltages. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
On March 18 2011 01:29 JingleHell wrote: The OP lists Furmark. I keep coming across random rumors that it can damage GPUs. I'm just curious if there is some definitive answer available on the question, since I can't find much besides conjecture. The rumors all talk about Furmark somehow pushing your card to unsafe voltages. Furmark cannot change voltages. | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
That's kind of what I figured, the rumors are always unsubstantiated, and it didn't seem to make sense that a benchmark tool would go above your settings, but I know next to nothing about software. Thanks for the answer, good to know I won't melt anything with it. | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
On March 18 2011 02:10 JingleHell wrote: That's kind of what I figured, the rumors are always unsubstantiated, and it didn't seem to make sense that a benchmark tool would go above your settings, but I know next to nothing about software. Thanks for the answer, good to know I won't melt anything with it. Oh, you can still melt stuff in the worst case. The trend in the last year or so is for graphics cards to throttle themselves when exceeding some power threshold. This tends to happen only very lightly in just a couple games, but there's heavy throttling in synthetic benchmarks like Furmark. Older graphics cards that aren't limiting themselves would be pushed to unrealistically high loads with something like Furmark. You might say that the wattage is a little unsafe, though the software can't push the voltage or frequency past what they're set at. However, in practice, cards with properly working thermal solutions and robust components are be able to tolerate the extreme load with no incident. | ||
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bonedOUT
United States140 Posts
edit: both at 1920x1080 monitors | ||
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FinalForm
United States450 Posts
What is your resolution?: 1920 x 1080 and a second monitor @ 1440 x 900 What are you using it for?: Gaming, watching SC2 casts, browsing the internet reading SC2 related stuffs. Would like to run SC2 and Diablo III at max settings smoothly, but also try my hand at more demanding games such as Crysis 2. What is your upgrade cycle?: 2+ years, not really interested in upgrading When do you plan on building it?: During the next month Do you plan on overclocking?: would like to overclock down the road as a way to keep my computer up to par, since I don't plan on upgrading. Do you need an Operating System? no Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire? No, unless you think that judging by my budget that SLI is the best way to dump my money. I heard that single-card GPU configurations are more cost effective in general, and SLI is only for individuals interesting in potentially upgrading later. Where are you buying your parts from? Newegg, Amazon, My initial plan was: cpu: i5-2500K, mobo: P67, gpu: gtx 570, memory: 8 GB, boot drive: OCZ Vertex 2 80GB, data drive: 1 TB, psu: corsair 500W?, a nice looking full tower case of my choice, and some mid-range aftermarket heatsink. but of course, I look to the community for advice and guidance! thank you! | ||
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DystopiaX
United States16236 Posts
Case: Fractal Design Define R3 ($110) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352002&cm_re=fractal_design_r3-_-11-352-002-_-Product Motherboard: ASUS P8H67-M Pro B3 ($130) http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7343086&CatId=6977 CPU: Intel i5 2500k ($180) http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0354589 RAM: Extreme Performance Sector 5 G Series 4GB DDR3-1333 ($60, $30 AMIR) http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0317832 GPU: Nvidia GTX 560 TI ($250) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127565&cm_re=560_ti-_-14-127-565-_-Product PSU: Corsair CMPSU-850HX ($180) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=17-139-011 HDD: SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 7200 rpm 1tb ($65) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185 Optical Drive: Asus Black ($18) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204 Windows 7 (100) Total: $1063 Also still looking at monitors, would appreciate a suggestion. Something around or below 300 dollars, preferably with an HDMI port, 1920 x1080 resolution, thanks! | ||
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