Computer Build Resource Thread - Page 1551
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SaWse
Belgium102 Posts
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Cyro
United Kingdom20322 Posts
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Cyro
United Kingdom20322 Posts
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
On June 19 2013 10:47 wo1fwood wrote: Ok so I think I finally started nailing things down in my choices. Purpose for this PC Gaming (fps, rts, and all in between), Graphics (Photoshop/Illustrator, no maya or 3dsmax), Audio Synthesis (PD) and Digital Audio Workstations (mixing, etc). Not going to try to overclock right now, but maybe in the far future I'll have the time to try to figure this stuff out, just way too busy atm for this to be even remotely realistic. That being said, the D-14 is primarily here for audio recording (silent PC ideal), not overclocking. Also Z87 was chosen for the possibility for dual GPU setups later (I wanted to leave that option open).
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($224.98 @ Outlet PC) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($78.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: Asus Z87-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($139.99 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($129.99 @ Adorama) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($395.98 @ SuperBiiz) Total: $1039.92 Like skyR mentioned, make sure to buy the i5-4670k, not i5-4670. There's a Noctua NH-U14S. Choose that one. With its single, very large fan, it's most quiet and still slightly better performing than the NH-D14 in its standard fan setup. The Newegg site says out-of-stock. At amazon.com, it's this product: http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U14S-Sockets-Heatpipe-Cooling/dp/B00C9FLSLY/ There are products for $20 less like the Zalman CNPS14x at Newegg, or Thermalright HR-02 Macho at amazon.com. With the Noctua you can be sure to get the best fan. The HR-02 Macho, for example, does not ship with Thermalright's better 140mm fan as the pricier Archon does. This might be important for you regarding noise from the fan's bearing and motor. Noctua also has an adapter in the box to force the fan to run slower at all times. What Cyro said about noise from the PC is very true. The graphics card will be louder than the CPU cooler. The hard drives can be seriously annoying. If you are serious about this, this can all be fixed. You should browse for reviews of the GTX770 and find out which one has the most quiet stock cooling and choose like that. There are also aftermarket coolers for graphics cards. You might want to look up pricing for a case that comes with padding and a front door. Something without openings for air at the top and side panel might be good (or openings that can be closed). Large, slow fans are important. Perhaps look out for possibly having room for a 140mm fan for the rear exhaust instead of just 120mm. All fans have to be decoupled from the case so that it does not vibrate. You can buy silicon mounting kits to replace screws for normal fans. Some fans come with their own solution for this. You have to make sure HDD vibrations are decoupled from the case. This is especially important with two or more drives. A product that looks like this is what's the very best solution: http://i.imgur.com/DNCeIkz.png. I can't find something like this sold anywhere atm, but that's the general idea you'd go for if you want to do a ghetto do-it-yourself solution. This is basically similar to padding of the case, but in a tiny box just for a hard drive: http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/hdd/005/sqd1000_detail.html. It goes into a 5.25 inch drive bay and might be interesting if you find out you hear a constant whine from the HDD in your recordings. It can also muffle the clatter of accessing the HDD. A 2.5 inch notebook hard drive might be neat instead of normal 3.5 inch. | ||
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
On June 19 2013 19:34 Cyro wrote: How much will blower vs open air GPU affect my case temps? It seemed really quite difficult to get a blower 770 (titan cooler) and there's a few sites with windforce 770's for £329 that seems pretty attractive. I was thinking, because i'l never load GPU and CPU simultaneously to stress-test levels, but if it can cause a significant temps rise on CPU then i'm a little worried about running a power hungry GPU I looked up pictures of your Xigmatek case once, I think. Can you mount fans anywhere in the front? Does it have some kind of solution for this? It looked a bit like that in the pictures. You could put three intake fans in the front in the top, middle and bottom, making sure that "positive pressure" business is true, then open up all slot panels in the back so that some air gets pushed out there. The graphics card cooling won't matter anymore. | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20322 Posts
Edit: There's definately lots of room, but seems like no mechanism to do so? I'd really like to, there's room for at least a couple of 120mm fans and it would provide airflow to the CPU area. Upon inspection, i am seriously seriously lacking airflow here, i ONLY have a front intake (and i was thinking about adding bottom..) and while it's powerful, both of them would bring in a ton of cool air.. Which would be trapped underneath the hard drive and the graphics card. Oops. My temps rose gradually to that over 10-15 mins of cycling on/off small fft on blend, my absolute max was up almost 10 degrees (compared to the first minute of small fft) and my exhaust air was hot, it wouldn't surprise me if i could remove at least a chunk of that with better case airflow. Suggestions? I might flip my 170mm top to an intake as mentioned before i think - it's right close to the CPU heatsink and would bring a massive amount of airflow. I'd only have a single exhaust then, though. That's a bit much to ask for it to deal with a high clocked haswell and a card pushing more heat than a gtx680 perhaps, even with positive pressure. Actually the GPU's a little boxed in at the bottom.. + Show Spoiler + ![]() So overall: Might be able to fit a couple more fans in front. Not sure how i'd do it though, there's nothing/nowhere to mount them from what i can tell, just a lot of empty space. Bottom 120mm intake to fill so i have: 120mm front intake*, 120mm bottom intake - seems silly to suck all of the cold air from the front intake out of the case. 120mm back exhaust** 170mm top exhaust*** potential empty room for a couple more 120mm's at front *Came with case, quite loud but powerful. Replace? **Also came with case, i broke it while building. Replacing this one ***Run as intake? Could experiment, but access seems to require removing my Silver Arrow. I seem to remember you could run multiple, smaller fans up here if you wanted to. edit2: The Utgard wasn't great at cooling, but has plenty of empty fan mounts for you to add more - there are two in the side panel and one in the floor Two in the side panel eh.. The bottom side panel one might have enough room, the top, not with a silver arrow sat next to it There's a Noctua NH-U14S. Choose that one. With its single, very large fan, it's most quiet and still slightly better performing than the NH-D14 in its standard fan setup. I'm still a bit skeptical of this. Would imagine multiple fans at like half of the rpm to be quieter than a single one, the u14s's performance as a whole is surprising. If anyone has more, good temperature testing data, please post it. It does seem really good though. The HR-02 Macho, for example, does not ship with Thermalright's better 140mm fan as the pricier Archon does I think there's multiple models sold, the ty-141's are very similar to the ty-147's. Their max airflow is both ~73 CFM at 21db. The ty-143 goes down the jet engine route for 130CFM at 45db. If there's more thermalright 140mm fans, i didn't see/hear about them yet. Oh, the ty-140 seems pretty much identical to the 141 and 147. Different colors on all three | ||
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Deleted User 135096
3624 Posts
On June 19 2013 10:57 skyR wrote:+ Show Spoiler + oh sorry, I already have those as they were somewhat easier purchases. A regular 4670 cannot be overclocked. You need a K suffix processor to do so. Alryk linked 2400MHz memory earlier for $65: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=20-231-666 You have no case or power supply listed. I currently have a FD Define R4 (windowless), and a Seasonic Plat 660.Also I am certainly not familiar, but will 2400/11 be faster than 1866/9? I've never really looked into this. Also those DIMMs do work, but I had to search around for RAM that would work with the D-14 (so basically almost 0 corsair mem). On June 19 2013 20:00 Ropid wrote:+ Show Spoiler + The gigabyte listed has a Windforce fan/sink and is supposed to be somewhat quieter (800rpm idle) than stock coolers. Also yea, my HDD's are easily the loudest thing in this case now, even with my older GPU and CPU cooler. I tried suspending them via rubber cord, and that killed most of the case vibration (along with using the rubber 'washers' from the R4 to help suspend the bay itself) but there's still some ambient noise that I will probably need to address.On June 19 2013 10:47 wo1fwood wrote: Ok so I think I finally started nailing things down in my choices. Purpose for this PC Gaming (fps, rts, and all in between), Graphics (Photoshop/Illustrator, no maya or 3dsmax), Audio Synthesis (PD) and Digital Audio Workstations (mixing, etc). Not going to try to overclock right now, but maybe in the far future I'll have the time to try to figure this stuff out, just way too busy atm for this to be even remotely realistic. That being said, the D-14 is primarily here for audio recording (silent PC ideal), not overclocking. Also Z87 was chosen for the possibility for dual GPU setups later (I wanted to leave that option open).
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($224.98 @ Outlet PC) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($78.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: Asus Z87-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($139.99 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($129.99 @ Adorama) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($395.98 @ SuperBiiz) Total: $1039.92 Like skyR mentioned, make sure to buy the i5-4670k, not i5-4670. There's a Noctua NH-U14S. Choose that one. With its single, very large fan, it's most quiet and still slightly better performing than the NH-D14 in its standard fan setup. The Newegg site says out-of-stock. At amazon.com, it's this product: http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U14S-Sockets-Heatpipe-Cooling/dp/B00C9FLSLY/ There are products for $20 less like the Zalman CNPS14x at Newegg, or Thermalright HR-02 Macho at amazon.com. With the Noctua you can be sure to get the best fan. The HR-02 Macho, for example, does not ship with Thermalright's better 140mm fan as the pricier Archon does. This might be important for you regarding noise from the fan's bearing and motor. Noctua also has an adapter in the box to force the fan to run slower at all times. What Cyro said about noise from the PC is very true. The graphics card will be louder than the CPU cooler. The hard drives can be seriously annoying. If you are serious about this, this can all be fixed. You should browse for reviews of the GTX770 and find out which one has the most quiet stock cooling and choose like that. There are also aftermarket coolers for graphics cards. You might want to look up pricing for a case that comes with padding and a front door. Something without openings for air at the top and side panel might be good (or openings that can be closed). Large, slow fans are important. Perhaps look out for possibly having room for a 140mm fan for the rear exhaust instead of just 120mm. All fans have to be decoupled from the case so that it does not vibrate. You can buy silicon mounting kits to replace screws for normal fans. Some fans come with their own solution for this. You have to make sure HDD vibrations are decoupled from the case. This is especially important with two or more drives. A product that looks like this is what's the very best solution: http://i.imgur.com/DNCeIkz.png. I can't find something like this sold anywhere atm, but that's the general idea you'd go for if you want to do a ghetto do-it-yourself solution. This is basically similar to padding of the case, but in a tiny box just for a hard drive: http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/hdd/005/sqd1000_detail.html. It goes into a 5.25 inch drive bay and might be interesting if you find out you hear a constant whine from the HDD in your recordings. It can also muffle the clatter of accessing the HDD. A 2.5 inch notebook hard drive might be neat instead of normal 3.5 inch. | ||
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Blaec
Australia4289 Posts
On June 19 2013 20:19 Cyro wrote: Not sure if you can mount multiple fans at the front, but il check. Edit: There's definately lots of room, but seems like no mechanism to do so? + Show Spoiler + I'd really like to, there's room for at least a couple of 120mm fans and it would provide airflow to the CPU area. Upon inspection, i am seriously seriously lacking airflow here, i ONLY have a front intake (and i was thinking about adding bottom..) and while it's powerful, both of them would bring in a ton of cool air.. Which would be trapped underneath the hard drive and the graphics card. Oops. My temps rose gradually to that over 10-15 mins of cycling on/off small fft on blend, my absolute max was up almost 10 degrees (compared to the first minute of small fft) and my exhaust air was hot, it wouldn't surprise me if i could remove at least a chunk of that with better case airflow. Suggestions? I might flip my 170mm top to an intake as mentioned before i think - it's right close to the CPU heatsink and would bring a massive amount of airflow. I'd only have a single exhaust then, though. That's a bit much to ask for it to deal with a high clocked haswell and a card pushing more heat than a gtx680 perhaps, even with positive pressure. Actually the GPU's a little boxed in at the bottom.. + Show Spoiler + ![]() So overall: Might be able to fit a couple more fans in front. Not sure how i'd do it though, there's nothing/nowhere to mount them from what i can tell, just a lot of empty space. Bottom 120mm intake to fill so i have: 120mm front intake*, 120mm bottom intake - seems silly to suck all of the cold air from the front intake out of the case. 120mm back exhaust** 170mm top exhaust*** potential empty room for a couple more 120mm's at front *Came with case, quite loud but powerful. Replace? **Also came with case, i broke it while building. Replacing this one ***Run as intake? Could experiment, but access seems to require removing my Silver Arrow. I seem to remember you could run multiple, smaller fans up here if you wanted to There's a Noctua NH-U14S. Choose that one. With its single, very large fan, it's most quiet and still slightly better performing than the NH-D14 in its standard fan setup. I'm still a bit skeptical of this. Would imagine multiple fans at like half of the rpm to be quieter than a single one, the u14s's performance as a whole is surprising. If anyone has more, good temperature testing data, please post it. It does seem really good though. The HR-02 Macho, for example, does not ship with Thermalright's better 140mm fan as the pricier Archon does I think there's multiple models sold, the ty-141's are very similar to the ty-147's. Their max airflow is both ~73 CFM at 21db. The ty-143 goes down the jet engine route for 130CFM at 45db. If there's more thermalright 140mm fans, i didn't see/hear about them yet. Oh, the ty-140 seems pretty much identical to the 141 and 147. Different colors on all three Get ghetto, cable tie fans in wherever they will fit. I did it on an old build, put one 120mm at the front, even cable tied a spare stock intel cooler fan onto the side panel. It doesn't look good but it works. | ||
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
About fans for your case. Your case is open everywhere, right? There's some kind of mesh from top to bottom? If it's like that, you can put an intake fan everywhere. I strapped a 140mm inside my case's 5.25 inch drive bay. I just tied it up in there, no special mounting solution. 140mm takes up four drive bays, if I remember right. Even 150mm will still fit, but the height will go into a fifth drive bay. | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20322 Posts
Your case is open everywhere, right? There's some kind of mesh from top to bottom? YeaAnd sweet, i might be able to add quite a lot of fans | ||
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
On June 19 2013 20:46 wo1fwood wrote: Also yea, my HDD's are easily the loudest thing in this case now, even with my older GPU and CPU cooler. I tried suspending them via rubber cord, and that killed most of the case vibration (along with using the rubber 'washers' from the R4 to help suspend the bay itself) but there's still some ambient noise that I will probably need to address. I searched around a bit, and there's this DIY solution that seems easy to copy: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article67-page1.html (there's two pictures of the rubber box on that page) That "speedy-cut" stuff is $10 for 6 sheets on amazon.com, so should be enough for at least one HDD. The heat is a bit worrying, but probably not bad if you hate your HDD noise enough. In comparison, if I remember right, that pricey QuietDrive product I linked to actually helps cooling the HDD, but I can't find it at amazon.com or ebay.com. | ||
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
On June 19 2013 20:54 Ropid wrote: I strapped a 140mm inside my case's 5.25 inch drive bay. I just tied it up in there, no special mounting solution. 140mm takes up four drive bays, if I remember right. Even 150mm will still fit, but the height will go into a fifth drive bay. I just looked that up, 150mm will not fit, it's too wide. Also, 140mm isn't quite four drive bays high. 120mm takes up three drive bays. 5.25 inch drive bays are actually 5.75 inch wide (the floppy disks were 5.25"). 5.75 inch = 146 mm, so a 150mm fan won't fit. I looked up the TY-150 fan's dimensions as an example: 170x150mm. The drive bays are 41.275 mm high. Three bays are 124mm, four bays are 165mm. | ||
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TROGZ
United States132 Posts
MB: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157383&nm_mc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel&cm_mmc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel-_-Content-_-text-_- CPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115234&nm_mc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel&cm_mmc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel-_-Content-_-text-_- http://i.imgur.com/4Zc5yUK.jpg http://i.imgur.com/w4hnWmr.jpg http://i.imgur.com/QuhcJen.jpg http://i.imgur.com/1uqGYJl.jpg Do I have an incompatible CPU or am I missing something here? | ||
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Antoine
United States7481 Posts
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TROGZ
United States132 Posts
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
On June 20 2013 00:04 TROGZ wrote: Ah, damn it. I'm extremely uneducated about PC parts, so I didn't catch that when I got help putting it together. I guess I'll probably get it swapped out in a few days. No worries! And thanks for all the help. I screwed up on my end ![]() Make sure to exchange the CPU, not the motherboard! The newer i5-4570 which replaces the i5-3470 seems a lot better for SC2 fps in large scale battles and it's the exact same $199. | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20322 Posts
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
I mean this: http://i.imgur.com/FQImPHu.jpg | ||
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{ToT}ColmA
Japan3260 Posts
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BorealisD
32 Posts
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/186M5 I was aiming for around $800, and the ability to play bioshock infinite and sc2 on fairly high gfx. Anyone see anything wrong with this? | ||
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![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/TfC12Kp.jpg)
I currently have a FD Define R4 (windowless), and a Seasonic Plat 660.