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On December 12 2012 09:07 eklu65 wrote:
Anyone know of a heatsink that has green LED's that fits the 1155 socket? :D Preferably under $50...
Much appreciated!
Off the top of my head, the only decent one with LEDs is the EVGA superclock, which is a slightly marked-up rebrand of another cooler with a red LED fan. But it's not green.
Mind, I don't look individually at every cooler that comes out, I could be missing something. But I'd say you'd probably do better just grabbing a cooler and slapping a green LED fan on it. Antec Tricool comes to mind, since they're not terribly loud for the airflow they provide, have built in fan speed controls if you're willing to chop some of the top speed for noise (should be fine to do that if you're more interested in the aesthetic than the performance.)
There may be better options, I haven't looked at buying new LED fans for like a year and a half, and even then I was only looking at a tiny selection I could get locally to dodge shipping.
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Yeah, it doesn't need to be great, just better than the stock heatsinks. I was thinking about just getting a heatsink that would allow me to put a green LED fan on.
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On December 12 2012 09:18 eklu65 wrote:
Yeah, it doesn't need to be great, just better than the stock heatsinks. I was thinking about just getting a heatsink that would allow me to put a green LED fan on.
Yeah, you should. Most CPU coolers actually come with brackets you can swap to another fan easily, so like I said, just look at coolers that fit your case and motherboard, and look at an LED fan for it. That said, a LOT of LED fans are some form of shit, so make sure you're not getting a bad one.
The cheap LED fans tend to either have quality control issues, noise issues, or both.
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I personally find Cooler Master's fans to be a bit on the distastefully loud side if they're allowed to run balls to the wall. If you run 2x fans on it, make sure they're being controlled the same way or it could hurt performance, and/or create really annoying noises.
That said, if you're trying to match a color, it makes sense.
As far as 200mm fans, my general suggestion would be not to spend perfectly good money adding one unless it's just for looks, at which point you go by closest color, and I couldn't even guess what will match perfectly.
If you're moving that much air around, strongly consider a fan controller, or your parents/roomies/significant other might decide to stab you in the throat.
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Well, I'm trying to think of a way to arrange the fans in a HAF XB case. Huge open grate on the top with room for a 200mm fan, and several areas for adding 120-140mm fans. I'm trying to think of a way to orient the fans in this cube-like case, and I was thinking that by having all side fans pointing inward, and have the top fan pointing outward, it would help push hot air upward and out of the case. Only reason I'm going for a 200mm fan, really. Well...that and I want a creepy green case...
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On December 12 2012 09:37 eklu65 wrote:
Well, I'm trying to think of a way to arrange the fans in a HAF XB case. Huge open grate on the top with room for a 200mm fan, and several areas for adding 120-140mm fans. I'm trying to think of a way to orient the fans in this cube-like case, and I was thinking that by having all side fans pointing inward, and have the top fan pointing outward, it would help push hot air upward and out of the case. Only reason I'm going for a 200mm fan, really. Well...that and I want a creepy green case...
As it turns out, a case has tried positive pressure cooling. It's the Antec Lanboy Air, I have it, and it's incredibly lackluster for cooling, except in SLI, where, if you have blower cards, it's better than average. Front to back tends to work better, since your airflow is directed by fans anyways.
Obviously, true vertical airflow cases have had some amazing results, but that's not what you're talking about, I think. Regardless, colors, you mostly need to make sure they all match each other, which usually means same manufacturer. Unless of course you don't want matching.
Either way, unless you're going batshit with overclocks, you'll be more than cool enough with a ton of holes in a box, so it's moot.
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Yeah, I think color matters more than performance. I'm not overclocking (yet) but I am somewhat concerned with summer ambient room temps and the 3570K.
Vertical was kind of what I was going for, tbh. Or at least trying to replicate in this case. I was thinking by having all currents directed toward one another, the collision of currents would end up pushing hotter air upward and out of the case.
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You don't need LEDs to be attached to fans to put them in a case. Just throwing that out there as another option.
Top as exhaust may not work well with a side-blowing tower cooler like Hyper 212 and so on, because it would take away air from that cooler's intake. It would also direct air from the front intakes straight out the top without actually cooling anything along the way.
If you want to add the 200mm top fan, make it an intake and add a filter there if there isn't already one. There are a lot of holes in the sides and back area, so you shouldn't need exhaust fans up top for that kind of setup.
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Alright, so you think I should have the top fan blowing down onto the mobo? I was debating that as well, actually. So you would use the top and front as intakes, and the back as the only exhaust?
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You can probably skip the exhaust fan on the back. Like I said, there seem to be plenty of holes everywhere. Default configuration works just fine as is, and that doesn't even have the top intake.
If you use the top fan, this is actually one situation where a top-down blower heatsink should work fairly well. But it's still cheaper to use a typical side-blower tower, and that probably is still better anyway.
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51707 Posts
Hey, one of my friends is looking to build a desktop to play the latest games on for the new year, and since it's been 18 months since I built my desktop, I'm out of the loop as to components these days.
+ Show Spoiler [Survey] +What is your budget?$700-$1000 (not including monitor/keyboard) What is your resolution?Most likely he'll be buying a 24' 1080p monitor (so 1920x1080). What are you using it for?Mostly gaming, not that big of a need for storage. What is your upgrade cycle?As long as possible? When do you plan on building it?Some time around the Christmas period. Do you plan on overclocking?No. Do you need an Operating System?He'll buy it separately using student discount. Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire?No Where are you buying your parts from?http://www.pccasegear.com.au
Oh, he needs a wireless adapter since the university internet is wireless-only (don't ask me why).
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5930 Posts
Any USB wireless dongle works fine. Just make sure the chipset is Realtek, if you're using Windows 8, because that's really the only set that is immediately plug and play if I remember correctly.
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On December 12 2012 07:21 Myrmidon wrote:Imma go back to spoilers and less clogging. + Show Spoiler +I don't think anybody here's recommending extrapolating thermal plate test results to real-world CPU cooling without filtering the results and running some automatic sanity checks. I think we get it about hot plates... On December 12 2012 06:43 Belial88 wrote:
Your reaching 128w just on stock load on the i5, a cooler chip.
i5 sb is running 150+, Where's 128W on stock (system???) load for i5? Where's 150W for SB i5? (unless you're talking max synthetic load way past the point of 24/7 overclocks) On December 12 2012 06:43 Belial88 wrote:
IB runs hotter than SB, your going to need a high performance cooler on it. There's a reason everyone recommends H100s and NH-D14 class coolers for the 3570k, it runs hot. IVB is only really really hot once you crank the voltages past a certain point. For most everybody that's not a benchmarking / overclocking enthusiast, what you do when faced with the wall is back down 200 MHz and save 0.15V (or more), rather than trying to scale the wall with brute force $80+ cooling set hurricane wind speeds, probably needing to set things lower and lower over time because the chip really can't handle it 24/7 for years on end. Usually it's not going to kill you to have 5% worse performance in the rare times your workload is CPU limited. On December 12 2012 07:03 MisterFred wrote:
It has more heat problems, but it is in fact cooler. The heat problems are in localized areas in the chip and are NOT due to total heat output. Higher temperatures = hotter. Less heat, but higher temperatures (hotter). This implies you want something that mounts well and consistently, with the heatpipes/fins structure being of less importance. I think. Anybody actually know about thermodynamics?
Anyone who thinks Frostytech's benches are reliable, thinks that thermal plate tests are somehow relevant. That's the problem. Besides the fact that many CPUs go way above 150w on an overclock (even if the ib doesn't, many, many other chips do and you want to go for the best cooler on a hot chip, not the best cooler on a cool chip....), a thermal plate just doesnt work because the heat isn't concentrated in one area like a CPU is (hence why you dont need thermal paste over the entire IHS, just a dot in the middle).
You are incorrect about IB being a hotter chip that SB. It has more heat problems, but it is in fact cooler. The heat problems are in localized areas in the chip and are NOT due to total heat output.
IB runs hotter because it's on a smaller die, but yes, technically IB is a cooler chip.
As for what 'everyone' says in terms of heatsink recommendations for Ivy Bridge, 'many people' suggest just going for a moderate overclock & not overvolting near as much as Sandy Bridge - then going for whatever cheap heatsink. Ivy Bridge only has those heat problems if you run a lot of voltage through it. And for the average user, there's not a ton of difference between 4.4ghz & 4.9ghz.
To get more specific, I think most people recommend the Hyper 212+/Evo for how ridiculously cheap it is, but I often see people say the hyper 212 isn't enough, and I see top end air cooling and the H100 recommended just as often. You won't reach the top end 24/7 overclock on a hyper 212 (although you'll come close, and is the extra 200-500mhz worth it?).
Anyone know of a heatsink that has green LED's that fits the 1155 socket? :D Preferably under $50...
Much appreciated!
Just get fans with green LEDs on it, slap them on the heatsink. Not hard to do...
http://www.petrastechshop.com/12yalod1grle.html
x2 = $9, 14 after shipping maybe
Get a hyper 212+ for $15-20, or a used H50 for $25 on ebay.
You could also just get some green cold cathodes, and attach them to the heatsink. There's nothing wrong with doing so.
You should go to Overclock.net and check out their fan reviews. They have an amazing and exhaustive resource on literally every fan out there.
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On December 12 2012 07:21 Myrmidon wrote:Show nested quote +On December 12 2012 07:03 MisterFred wrote:
It has more heat problems, but it is in fact cooler. The heat problems are in localized areas in the chip and are NOT due to total heat output. Higher temperatures = hotter. Less heat, but higher temperatures (hotter).
Thank you for the correction.
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Hey guys, my friend wants to know how to install windows 8 onto his computer that he's about to build. Everything's on its way, but he doesn't know how to install it after putting it together. Also, do you guys have any videos/topics or something about putting together a computer for a first timer. I unfortunately won't be there to help, and I know there's a lot out there, but just wanted to see what you guys recommend.
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If you have no intention of overclocking than you do not need such an expensive Z77 board.
7870 is pretty overkill for two old games...
Corsair Vengeance is overpriced and the absurd heatspreaders don't help either since those don't clear most heatsinks.
DVD burner is overpriced.
Silverstone Strider Essential is old and mediocre and you don't need 600w of power unless you are doing SLI / CrossfireX. A Rosewill Capstone 450 is significantly better.
Seems like you did bad homework?
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@Nightops
Put it together. The BIOS for virtually every motherboard out there is set to check for a bootable CD/DVD before it does anything else. So once it's all together (correctly) just put your Windows DVD in the DVD-reader and follow the on-screen instructions. Done. If you didn't buy an optical drive than you'll need to use a second computer to put Windows on a flash drive (google for instructions). You might also need to direct the motherboard's BIOS to boot from a flash drive. You access the BIOS by pressing F1 or F2 when the computer is first starting up.
@Noritzu
SkyR is right about everything as usual, but I wanted to expand on what he said a bit. For motherboard, you're going to want to find an H77 or B75 board. You don't have any special needs, so any board with one of those two chipsets is going to be fine. Feel free to save some money there.
The "etc." in terms of the games you play is important. SC2 takes a fast CPU to run, but it doesn't take any graphics oomph. D3 is a ridiculously easy game to run. So the 7870 is tremendous overkill for playing those games. But if the "etc." includes shooters, the Total War series, or some other graphically intensive game then the power of the 7870 might actually be used for those games.
The CPU comes with a heatsink. Buying a separate one is usually only for overclockers. As for case, this is kind of a generic "anything will work" situation. Since you're not overclocking, air flow is going to be fine with the stock fan configuration of pretty much any case in your price range. What you have is fine if you want a big giant window to gaze lovingly at your computer with. I'd prefer the Bit Fenix Ghost (us.ncix.com) for the same price, as it one of the supposed "noise-dampening" cases. Again, not really any way to screw up with the case
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EPT
