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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. |
On July 05 2012 08:50 MisterFred wrote:@Toasterbaked. We look down on stealing on this forum. Don't ask about it. If you're desperate for free windows, just join the Windows 8 trial program and download windows 8 for free. As for the rest... CPU & mobo: AMD Phenom II 965be + Gigabyte GA-78LMT-S2P ($100 combo deal @ microcenter) Normally for a budget pc, I'd recommend the g630 with a cheap motherboard, but the phenom here is actually $20 cheaper because of the free motherboard. If, while at microcenter, you can get a deal on an i3 + any compatible motherboard that is equal price or only like $10 more, go for that. I can't believe I'm recommending a Phenom. If SC2 is your main game, you should buy the i3-2100 at microcenter anyway, and then go with an msi h67a-g43 @ newegg if there isn't a mobo combo deal at microcenter. CPU Cooler: Stock AMD cooler. The motherboard above is not what one calls fantastic, so you won't be able to overclock much if at all without getting an aftermarket cooler. RAM: Kingston HyperX 2x2gb 1600mhz ($29) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231424If you go with Intel, use different RAM. GPU: EVGA 560se (with Adobe Elements thrown in) ($137 - $10 rebate) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130770 Case: Bit Fenix Outlaw ($45) http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=63255&vpn=BFC-OLW-100-KKN1-RP&manufacture=BitFenix&promoid=1223 Case is largely a matter of personal preference. This is a decent budget case that's not wacky looking. If you want shiny, wacky, with blue LEDs, look at the Zalman z9 or z11 cases. PSU: Antec Neo Eco 450c ($35) http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=60491&vpn=NEO-ECO450C&manufacture=Antec&promoid=1223 HDD: WD Caviar Blue 500gb ($65 after promo code) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136769Only like $20 to double the size to a 1TB, and another $25 or so to go to 2TB, depending on your space needs. Also, SSD not included, but might be nice if you have more $$ later. DVD-burner ($10) http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=60731&vpn=GH22NS70&manufacture=LG Electronics USA&promoid=1223Total: $421 - $10 rebate.
I've heard about AMDs and I've had a bad experience with them in the past- what's the difference between the two brands?
For now, I'd really like Intels for my cpu; what's a good RAM I could go with Intels? How do I know they will be compatible?
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If you don't want AMD, then go for the i3-2100 at microcenter ($80), the msi z67a-g43 motherboard at newegg ($80 - $20 rebate), and some g.skill value RAM (1333mhz) @ newegg ($25, I think).
Total for the system would then come out to: $477 - $30 rebate. You could lower that somewhat by getting a cheap 6770 instead of the video card I recommended or the alternative in the replay I made to itzSnypah
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What are the pros and cons of i3 and AMD? What tasks does i3 perform better in than in AMD?
From what I heard, the i3 has a better upgrade path while AMD is cheaper and both match evenly in performance...
I also heard that AMD doesn't last as long as i3, although that might be false.
Is it worth the ~30$ extra for the i3?
2 toasters are asking for computer advice at the same time.. 
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They'll both work well enough for any purpose that it's not a huge decision. The i3 is better for your purposes (gaming) by a small margin. Enough to be worth more money? Well that really depends on how much going further over budget hurts you compared to the benefit. In other words: a question only you can answer.
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PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
Hi everyone, would somebody help me take a look at the computer parts I am going to purchase in the next few days? It is going to be for gaming and what not, so I wanted to pick slightly more than sufficient parts because I really don't upgrade very often. This can be seen in my current choice in i7 over i5 which I may retract in order to place the 120$ elsewhere. It is slightly tentative and I'm trying to finalize it, see. Thanks in advance
+ Show Spoiler +
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@Puph
The MSI -g43 isn't optimal for crossfire, since the second GPU would go into a PCI-e 2.0 x4 slot. Still workable, just not ideal. Also, it limits the voltage you can add to the processor, so I wouldn't expect an overclock higher than 4.4ghz if you like to shoot for more aggressive overclocks.
You might consider the Asus p8z77-V -LK version (might be a bit off there, the Asus z77 board that has -LK as part of the title). That'll offer (slightly) better crossfire & more overclocking capacity.
Nothing else to write home about. The SSD is pretty cheap because it's Sandforce & those sometimes develop BSOD issues. But after firmware updates those problems develop for very few people, so the risk is probably worth the $40 saved over a 128gb Crucial m4.
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THIS WHOLE REPLY IS MY REQUEST AND MY CURRENT SHOPPING CART... SORRY FOR ANY CONFUSION.
What is your budget?
$800-$1000
What is your resolution?
1920×1080
What are you using it for?
Currently playing Team Fortress 2, Diablo 3, some SC2, and other misc games. I currently can play these games no problem with my current setup but would like to start streaming and my computer can't handle both. Build needs to be focused on the streaming/quality aspect.
What is your upgrade cycle?
2-3 years.
When do you plan on building it?
Within the next month.
Do you plan on overclocking?
Never messed with overclocking before but if I can squeeze more out of a system for a couple extra $$, then I'd be willing to give it a shot.
Do you need an Operating System?
No. Currently have Windows 7 Home 64-bit.
Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire?
No.
Where are you buying your parts from?
Newegg.com or other respectable web vendors.
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Currently I have put this list together of components I feel would make a decent build based on other replies:
CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 $349.99
- Best all-around processor for multi-process in the Intel brand from what I can gather. Going with the K version will allow for overclocking if it will help overall.
CPU Cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO $30.00
- Great reviews. Any downside? Concerns with RAM. See below.
MOBO: ASUS P8Z77-V LK LGA 1155 Intel Z77 $149.99 - $20 MIR
- Have read good reviews on this board for i7 platform and overclocking.
RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) $49.99
- Only concern is the size of the RAM with the heat spreader when using this MOBO and the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO. Does anyone know if they will fit?
GPU: XFX HD-687A-ZHFC Radeon HD 6870 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 $174.99 - $20 MIR
- Not looking to get the absolute best video card, just want something that can handle games in good medium quality. This has been suggested a few times in this thread and falls into my price point.
SSD: Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) $129.99
- Would like to add an SSD drive to my setup for speed. Plan on using current hard drive for storage.
CASE: Already own a Cooler Master huge case (at work, can't recall model) that has plenty of room and plenty of airflow.
PSU: Corsair 620W that I already own.
Drives: Rarely use the DVD drive so I'll just use my current drive.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated. Thank you for your time. Sorry for the long post.
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As far as I am aware, Defectiv, a new month can bring a newer, more efficient build choice. As for the ASUS P8Z77-V LK LGA 1155 Intel Z77, does it suffer the same PCI slot problem as the G43? Is there a better mobo I can look into, or what am I looking at when analyzing for proper crossfire capabilities?
Thanks again
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On July 06 2012 01:03 MisterFred wrote:
If you don't want AMD, then go for the i3-2100 at microcenter ($80), the msi z67a-g43 motherboard at newegg ($80 - $20 rebate), and some g.skill value RAM (1333mhz) @ newegg ($25, I think).
Total for the system would then come out to: $477 - $30 rebate. You could lower that somewhat by getting a cheap 6770 instead of the video card I recommended or the alternative in the replay I made to itzSnypah
Are you talking about the msi H67a-g43?
Also, I have a computer from several years ago that was totaled when I accidentally plugged it into the wrong voltage- do you think that the DVD burner can be salvaged?
The case is rather small, so I'm not sure if all the components will fit inside it.
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On July 06 2012 00:00 JingleHell wrote:Show nested quote +On July 05 2012 23:47 FlyingToilet wrote:On July 05 2012 21:40 Medrea wrote:
8C.
Ok he must have his AC blowing on his intake.
Or there is a phase change CPU cooler he isnt telling us about because his Mainboard is reading mid to upper 70's. Which looks normal.
Or his CPU sensor on his motherboard is going. Or HWMonitor is reading the meta data wrong.
Pick one of the three. Ambient temp aint got nothing to do with it.
Tbh it is a shitty foxconn mobo and it reads volts stupidly wrong, saying i think like stupid amounts that should have my pc pooping and shorting out whenever its even on, but it seems to do me good, the overall cpu temps seem legit because when i stream and get like 64 degrees celc before it will start bugging out and crashing etc. but no blue screens. Overall my foxconn motherboard seems to do me good in heavy performing tasks so replacing it for reading sensors wrong is kinda unnecessary get my drift? :D You're suggesting a cooling setup based off of the data, it seems entirely fucking reasonable to expect your temps to not defy the laws of physics. Regardless of what we do or don't already know about the case and cooler, you shouldn't suggest it based off of clearly incorrect information.
All im trying to do is replace my motherboard with a reasonably good one under 100 dollars that has 4 ram slots and is an am3+, forget the incorrect information about the watts and temps i just wanted to know a good motherboard suggestion...
And the only reason i actually want to replace it is because it doesn't match my haf 912 startup cables and won't turn on unless i connect my hp cables through the side of the case and hit the power button when it's next to it, ya its extremely ghetto!
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On July 06 2012 04:45 FlyingToilet wrote:Show nested quote +On July 06 2012 00:00 JingleHell wrote:On July 05 2012 23:47 FlyingToilet wrote:On July 05 2012 21:40 Medrea wrote:
8C.
Ok he must have his AC blowing on his intake.
Or there is a phase change CPU cooler he isnt telling us about because his Mainboard is reading mid to upper 70's. Which looks normal.
Or his CPU sensor on his motherboard is going. Or HWMonitor is reading the meta data wrong.
Pick one of the three. Ambient temp aint got nothing to do with it.
Tbh it is a shitty foxconn mobo and it reads volts stupidly wrong, saying i think like stupid amounts that should have my pc pooping and shorting out whenever its even on, but it seems to do me good, the overall cpu temps seem legit because when i stream and get like 64 degrees celc before it will start bugging out and crashing etc. but no blue screens. Overall my foxconn motherboard seems to do me good in heavy performing tasks so replacing it for reading sensors wrong is kinda unnecessary get my drift? :D You're suggesting a cooling setup based off of the data, it seems entirely fucking reasonable to expect your temps to not defy the laws of physics. Regardless of what we do or don't already know about the case and cooler, you shouldn't suggest it based off of clearly incorrect information. All im trying to do is replace my motherboard with a reasonably good one under 100 dollars that has 4 ram slots and is an am3+, forget the incorrect information about the watts and temps i just wanted to know a good motherboard suggestion...
Now you're just not making sense. Your last post, in this quote chain says you consider replacing it unnecessary.
The commentary about temps is because you suggested a case/CPU cooler to someone, and listed your rather bizarre temps.
Please tell me I'm not the only one who's starting to have trouble following this train of thought?
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I tried reading through the entire history with flyingtoilet about his motherboard again and I am still not exactly sure why we are replacing the motherboard to begin with. Something about new cases?
And then he asked about wiping his BIOS or something which I have no idea why that is relevant one way or another so I figure he just though it was something you had to do.
I think from the context I am getting that he wants to put his computer into a different case or something?? And then thats why he needs a new motherboard.
Im not 100 percent on this.
On July 05 2012 03:17 FlyingToilet wrote:I know this is the computer BUILD resource thread but i have come across a problem, this hp foxconn motherboard i am using and upgrading with a haf 912 case, i completely took out everything and replaced my heatsink with the hyper 212 + perfectly! But i need a new motherboard because this shitty hp one only uses hp cases i assume, its got these little gold pin connectors and some like generic usb one that powers up the mobo. Overall what im getting at here is im upgrading my phenom II 1045 thuban edition processor to a whole new motherboard because the one currently does not have the corresponding power button connector cables, and i want to know how to remove the old motherboard bios off of my pc so when i slap this new puppy in i just slide the disc in and it runs like a charm! :D Lol i tried to manage with some indian on hp customer support and told him what im doing and he tried to get me to buy hp recovery off the site along with windows 7, and i replied im deleting everything hp off this pc for a damn reason... So tell me teamliquid.net how do i go about removing the bios from my hard drive, without messing something up (i already know if i do this my windows 7 OS will run slower) according to some random site, but this is the new motherboard i want to get, please no asus! http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157305
On July 05 2012 03:50 FlyingToilet wrote:Show nested quote +On July 05 2012 03:28 JingleHell wrote:On July 05 2012 03:17 FlyingToilet wrote:+ Show Spoiler +I know this is the computer BUILD resource thread but i have come across a problem, this hp foxconn motherboard i am using and upgrading with a haf 912 case, i completely took out everything and replaced my heatsink with the hyper 212 + perfectly! But i need a new motherboard because this shitty hp one only uses hp cases i assume, its got these little gold pin connectors and some like generic usb one that powers up the case. Overall what im getting at here is im upgrading my phenom II 1045 thuban edition processor to a whole new motherboard because the one currently does not have the corresponding power button connector cables, and i want to know how to remove the old motherboard bios off of my pc so when i slap this new puppy in i just slide the disc in and it runs like a charm! :D Lol i tried to manage with some indian on hp customer support and told him what im doing and he tried to get me to buy hp recovery off the site along with windows 7, and i replied im deleting everything hp off this pc for a damn reason... So tell me teamliquid.net how do i go about removing the bios from my hard drive, without messing something up (i already know if i do this my windows 7 OS will run slower) according to some random site, but this is the new motherboard i want to get, please no asus! http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157305 The reason you're having trouble getting help from the people at tech support isn't the usual one of them not understanding you. It's actually the fact that you don't understand computers well enough for anyone except yourself to understand you. For starters, your BIOS isn't on your hard drive, ever. What you're thinking of is chipset drivers, and it's easier to just backup your files. I don't know of a sure-fire way to remove chipset drivers. Hey i came quite a way from that thread xD, but ok so i don't need to wipe my hard drive? and also the reason why i mentioned that mobo was because it was cheap and had 4 memory slots, i have 8 gigs of ddr3 i think 1600 mhz 1.5 volts and i need a motherboard that corresponds with that, but phew that brings a sigh of relief that i dont have to wipe hy hard drive, was worrying about having to replace my OS, and also i can put up with some harsh honest truth as long as i dont fuck up like i almost did before, and thanks man! u always seem to come out of nowhere lol
Gonna quote this for study.
EDIT: Right, ok. So I am guessing he is changing motherboards to a new case and the current one doesnt have the power button close enough or something. Or uh, "doesnt have corresponding cables" I think maybe he can't find the front panel power wires that stretch to the board?
Still not sure why we are going into a new case though. Looks cool?
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On July 06 2012 04:51 JingleHell wrote:Show nested quote +On July 06 2012 04:45 FlyingToilet wrote:On July 06 2012 00:00 JingleHell wrote:On July 05 2012 23:47 FlyingToilet wrote:On July 05 2012 21:40 Medrea wrote:
8C.
Ok he must have his AC blowing on his intake.
Or there is a phase change CPU cooler he isnt telling us about because his Mainboard is reading mid to upper 70's. Which looks normal.
Or his CPU sensor on his motherboard is going. Or HWMonitor is reading the meta data wrong.
Pick one of the three. Ambient temp aint got nothing to do with it.
Tbh it is a shitty foxconn mobo and it reads volts stupidly wrong, saying i think like stupid amounts that should have my pc pooping and shorting out whenever its even on, but it seems to do me good, the overall cpu temps seem legit because when i stream and get like 64 degrees celc before it will start bugging out and crashing etc. but no blue screens. Overall my foxconn motherboard seems to do me good in heavy performing tasks so replacing it for reading sensors wrong is kinda unnecessary get my drift? :D You're suggesting a cooling setup based off of the data, it seems entirely fucking reasonable to expect your temps to not defy the laws of physics. Regardless of what we do or don't already know about the case and cooler, you shouldn't suggest it based off of clearly incorrect information. All im trying to do is replace my motherboard with a reasonably good one under 100 dollars that has 4 ram slots and is an am3+, forget the incorrect information about the watts and temps i just wanted to know a good motherboard suggestion... Now you're just not making sense. Your last post, in this quote chain says you consider replacing it unnecessary. The commentary about temps is because you suggested a case/CPU cooler to someone, and listed your rather bizarre temps. Please tell me I'm not the only one who's starting to have trouble following this train of thought?
I said that because replacing it over faulty sensors would be dumb, and what i am getting at is my pc ghetto is rigged and the power cables do not match unless i want to start it up with an hp case having power cables hooked up to the side of it each time, so i need a new mothboard. Besides its a foxconn motherboard and i don't really like it, I was just mentioning how replacing it over a sensor would not be too smart, i don't really have the money that's why im asking what mobo would be best for an am3 4 slot that would be used for casual streaming, absolutely no Crossfire or OC of anything i just want a decent motherboard for cheap i can rely on for like a year or 2, forget about everything else i said i just wanted to know if this mobo is good for it's price
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128510
And if it isn't please mention another one that isn't over 150 dollars...
Madrea, i have an hp case that does not have regular startup plugins for cables other than hp ones, its like a usb plugin for a power button. So to use my Haf 912 i need a new motherboard because it only uses hp cases, and im switching cases because i want a hyper 212 + for better cooling, and my hp case is too small for that, why im using this haf 912 its big fits a crap ton of fans, and if i switch motherboard and cpu to intel parts i can just take out the old parts back into another case and use them for my little sister etc.
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On July 06 2012 04:21 Toasterbaked wrote:Show nested quote +On July 06 2012 01:03 MisterFred wrote:
If you don't want AMD, then go for the i3-2100 at microcenter ($80), the msi z67a-g43 motherboard at newegg ($80 - $20 rebate), and some g.skill value RAM (1333mhz) @ newegg ($25, I think).
Total for the system would then come out to: $477 - $30 rebate. You could lower that somewhat by getting a cheap 6770 instead of the video card I recommended or the alternative in the replay I made to itzSnypah Are you talking about the msi H67a-g43? Also, I have a computer from several years ago that was totaled when I accidentally plugged it into the wrong voltage- do you think that the DVD burner can be salvaged? The case is rather small, so I'm not sure if all the components will fit inside it.
yes, whoops
dunno
it'll fit
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I'm in a situation where if I want to upgrade one thing I basically need to upgrade everything. My case is also falling apart and I'm having to use scotch tape to hold it together. My situation is dire.
I have $400 max, would prefer to keep it to $300 but $400 can work. I need a:
-Case
-CPU
-PSU
-Mobo
-RAM
My resolution is 1024x768, but I intend on upgrading on this upgrade cycle to 1600x900 but not now, so it should be able to run games at a decent FPS on that resolution as well. I got an ATI 4850 currently as my video card. I plan on building it as soon as possible, hopefully before the end of August. I intend on mostly gaming, but I'm also starting to get into coding and I tend to be doing lots of shit at once so a good processor is a must. I intend on buying from Newegg.
If anything I just intend for this build to hold me over for, say, another 1.5-2 years so I can get settled in and begin gathering up money to get an actually top notch PC and everything. But I need SOMETHING now to be able to keep going.
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On July 06 2012 03:53 Defectiv wrote:+ Show Spoiler +THIS WHOLE REPLY IS MY REQUEST AND MY CURRENT SHOPPING CART... SORRY FOR ANY CONFUSION.What is your budget? $800-$1000 What is your resolution? 1920×1080 What are you using it for? Currently playing Team Fortress 2, Diablo 3, some SC2, and other misc games. I currently can play these games no problem with my current setup but would like to start streaming and my computer can't handle both. Build needs to be focused on the streaming/quality aspect. What is your upgrade cycle? 2-3 years. When do you plan on building it? Within the next month. Do you plan on overclocking? Never messed with overclocking before but if I can squeeze more out of a system for a couple extra $$, then I'd be willing to give it a shot. Do you need an Operating System? No. Currently have Windows 7 Home 64-bit. Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire? No. Where are you buying your parts from? Newegg.com or other respectable web vendors. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Currently I have put this list together of components I feel would make a decent build based on other replies: CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 $349.99 - Best all-around processor for multi-process in the Intel brand from what I can gather. Going with the K version will allow for overclocking if it will help overall. CPU Cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO $30.00 - Great reviews. Any downside? Concerns with RAM. See below. MOBO: ASUS P8Z77-V LK LGA 1155 Intel Z77 $149.99 - $20 MIR - Have read good reviews on this board for i7 platform and overclocking. RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) $49.99 - Only concern is the size of the RAM with the heat spreader when using this MOBO and the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO. Does anyone know if they will fit? GPU: XFX HD-687A-ZHFC Radeon HD 6870 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 $174.99 - $20 MIR - Not looking to get the absolute best video card, just want something that can handle games in good medium quality. This has been suggested a few times in this thread and falls into my price point. SSD: Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) $129.99 - Would like to add an SSD drive to my setup for speed. Plan on using current hard drive for storage. CASE: Already own a Cooler Master huge case (at work, can't recall model) that has plenty of room and plenty of airflow. PSU: Corsair 620W that I already own. Drives: Rarely use the DVD drive so I'll just use my current drive. Any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated. Thank you for your time. Sorry for the long post.
Get an i5-3570k instead of the i7. Hyperthreading is the only difference and it's useless for gaming. Generally, it's worth it only for streamers, 3d artists, and certain professional applications. If you want to plow the savings back into the build, upgrade GPU to a 7850. If not, just pocket it.
That RAM is a no-go for air cooling. Get g.skill ares or some similar low-profile ram.
You can get the SSD slightly cheaper on amazon if you want.
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On July 06 2012 05:50 Candadar wrote:+ Show Spoiler +I'm in a situation where if I want to upgrade one thing I basically need to upgrade everything. My case is also falling apart and I'm having to use scotch tape to hold it together. My situation is dire.
I have $400 max, would prefer to keep it to $300 but $400 can work. I need a:
-Case
-CPU
-PSU
-Mobo
-RAM
My resolution is 1024x768, but I intend on upgrading on this upgrade cycle to 1600x900 but not now, so it should be able to run games at a decent FPS on that resolution as well. I got an ATI 4850 currently as my video card. I plan on building it as soon as possible, hopefully before the end of August. I intend on mostly gaming, but I'm also starting to get into coding and I tend to be doing lots of shit at once so a good processor is a must. I intend on buying from Newegg.
If anything I just intend for this build to hold me over for, say, another 1.5-2 years so I can get settled in and begin gathering up money to get an actually top notch PC and everything. But I need SOMETHING now to be able to keep going.
CPU: i5-3450 ($190 /w promo code)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116405
Latest-gen quad-core. nice.
<<OR>>
Pentium g620 ($64)
http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=59192&vpn=BX80623I32120&manufacture=Intel&promoid=1015
Modern dual core. Great budget choice. If you live near a microcenter, replace this with an i3-2100 or get the above cheaper.
Motherboard: Asrock b75 ($73 rebate)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157313
CPU Cooler: Stock Intel cooler.
RAM: 2x4gb 1333mhz ($40)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231424
GPU: Use your current one.
Case: Bit Fenix Outlaw ($45)
http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=63255&vpn=BFC-OLW-100-KKN1-RP&manufacture=BitFenix&promoid=1223
Case is largely a matter of personal preference. This is a decent budget case that's not wacky looking. If you want shiny, wacky, with blue LEDs, look at the Zalman z9 or z11 cases.
PSU: Antec Neo Eco 450c ($35)
http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=60491&vpn=NEO-ECO450C&manufacture=Antec&promoid=1223
HDD: Seagate 500gb ($65)
http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=63468&vpn=ST500DM002&manufacture=Seagate&promoid=1015
Only like $20 to double the size to a 1TB, and another $25 or so to go to 2TB, depending on your space needs. This may be needed if your old HDD is IDE
DVD-burner ($10)
http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=60731&vpn=GH22NS70&manufacture=LG Electronics USA&promoid=1223
This may be needed if your old optical drive is IDE.
Total /w dual-core: $332, $257 if your HDD & optical drive are already SATA.
Total /w quad-core: $458, $383 if your HDD & optical drive are already SATA.
Not included: windows, peripherals
Upgrades that would be immediately useful:
SSD (applications placed here instead of HDD will load zoom-zoom fast)
New video card (if current one does not give desired performance)
New monitor. If I were you I'd look at something in the very nice arena, possibly opening the money for it by getting the dual-core:
($235-240) A quality IPS 23" monitor like the Dell Ultrasharp u2313hm. As a bonus: your old monitor becomes a nice non-gaming adjunct.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B005LN1JEC/ref=sr_1_1_olp?ie=UTF8&qid=1341366548&sr=8-1&keywords=dell ultrasharp u2312hm&condition=new
or better yet, one of the 27" 2560x1440 monitors:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1270861/potalion-2710qw-monitor-club
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Thanks a ton Fred.
Also, $190? Says $89 
EDIT: I forget the specifics about my HDD. Is there a way to figure the specifics about it without taking it out? I'm pretty sure it has SATA but I'm not sure.
EDIT 2: Hurr durr it's SATA, yeah.
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EPT
