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Headphone enthusiast thread! - Page 74

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zedi
Profile Joined October 2010
165 Posts
May 26 2011 20:01 GMT
#1461
Still using HD 555 after like, five years. Haven't disappointed me at any point.
ieatkids5
Profile Blog Joined September 2004
United States4628 Posts
Last Edited: 2011-05-26 20:24:19
May 26 2011 20:23 GMT
#1462
On May 26 2011 16:40 uriel- wrote:
Show nested quote +
On May 26 2011 14:35 ieatkids5 wrote:
I thought we already had this conversation somewhere in this thread: you don't recommend the RE0 to people who are trying their first "good" pair of IEMs. Yeah it has awesome clarity, but people who have been listening to stock buds can't tell the clarity difference between the RE0 and Meelec M9. Yeah it's supposedly "balanced", but people don't want that, they like their bass. The only time the RE0 should be recommended is if someone really knows what kind of sound signature they want and it matches the RE0's. The rest of the time, 99% of those people will hate the RE0 for lacking bass.

For those who are just stepping into the "good" IEM market, try picking up a cheap pair of Meelec ones to test the waters. They are cheap and miles better than any stock earbud. Pretty much all of them have sound signatures that most people like (it's got the bass you want, and none of them I'd call overpowering). After trying these, you can decide whether you want more or less, whether you think mids are more important, whether you really love sparkly treble, whether you want more clarity/accuracy, etc etc.

But stepping in from stock buds to a $200 pair whose sound signature you don't even know if you like? That's a huge waste of money. Spend a little bit to see what you like, and then invest more. And spend that little bit on something that you have a higher chance of liking (more bass than the supposedly "balanced" headphone like the RE0) than something someone else says is good. Sound and music are subjective. You gotta find out what sounds good to your ears.


The RE0 are $79. They were also my first ever "good" IEMs, and believe me I could appreciate the clarity. I have also introduced them to a decent number of friends as an entry drug into portable audio, and all have been appreciative of the RE0's strengths.

I do agree that the RE0 has a sound signature that is definitely not for everyone, that the thin-bodied bass will be an issue with most mainstream listeners and that there are other entry-level IEMs such as those from MEElec that are likely to hit home with many people. MEElec is of course an excellent budget brand. What I cannot agree with is how you assume anyone who hasn't had a listen to hi-fi in their lives will be completely unable to appreciate good sound, or that everyone who listens to music and aren't self-declared audiophiles are bass-heads. "People can't tell the difference", "people like their bass", well excuse me Sir.

Perhaps I will do to rephrase my previous claim to avoid your ire? IN MY OPINION the RE0s cannot be beat in their price range (which is decidedly not "$200") unless you absolutely need large bass quantity. For what it's worth, after sufficient burn in and after a tip-swap to Shure Olives I found the bass completely sufficient for my needs, and with a cheap amp like the FiiO E5 or with some EQing it's perfectly possible to enjoy a bass quantity that will satisfy most apart from hardcore bass-heads/those who listen exclusively to very bass-heavy genres.

My apologies if I came off as offensive. Just trying to help people out.

i'm not an elitist audiophile. I'm saying people can't tell the difference and that people like their bass because that's how i am and that's how most people are. i don't like the RE0. i like bass. and i can't tell the difference between a westone 3 and an entry level IEM. and most people i know share the same thoughts, so why would it make sense to get something they probably wont like?

another misunderstanding, i should've clarified, the $200 example was directed at people buying extremely expensive headphones when they don't know what they want, it's just a waste of money. wasn't directed at you.
Dakure
Profile Joined February 2011
United States513 Posts
Last Edited: 2011-05-26 21:10:05
May 26 2011 20:37 GMT
#1463
[image loading]
[image loading]
I have Turtle Beaches X11 that I use as my PC headset and my Senns HD280 that I use for almost everything else

I believe the HD280s are closed cans. Are the X11s considered open? I don't have any experience withs open headphones but the X11s just feel nice, and my birthday is coming up soon so maybe I can buy a new pair.

Edit: Oh, can someone recommend any good open headphones $100-150? $150-200?
Myrmidon
Profile Blog Joined December 2004
United States9452 Posts
May 26 2011 21:49 GMT
#1464
On May 27 2011 04:47 Deadeight wrote:
For ages now I've been using an old pair of Sony MDR-NC50 which I got ridiculously cheap, as they were factory refit and had horrible reviews (way over-priced for what they were).

I'm starting a summer job soon and looking to get some new headphones, for about £100-£150 ($150-£250). I don't need a mic, don't want in-ear, don't want noise-cancelling again. I don't mind if they're big but they need to be comfortable. I listen to some electronic stuff, a lot of stuff like The Mars Volta. I'll use it for gaming too but the sound quality for music is more important to me.


Can anyone recommend me a decent set of headphones please? Or point me in the right direction of where to look? Thanks in advance for any reply.

Beyerdynamic DT 770 / Pro 80 is about £130. They're frequently recommended as the most comfortable closed cans. Personally I can't stand anything that isn't in ear or totally circumaural with deep cups. DT 770 counts as the latter, while many sold as circumaurals don't really. The bass is a little bit much for my liking, but they're pretty popular.

On May 27 2011 05:37 Dakure wrote:
Edit: Oh, can someone recommend any good open headphones $100-150? $150-200?

AKG K601, Sennheiser HD 595/558, I think. Senn HD 598 and Audio-Technica ATH-AD900 may sometimes be under $200. Senn HD 555 / Audio-Technica ATH-AD700 are usually under $100.
Deadeight
Profile Blog Joined September 2010
United Kingdom1629 Posts
Last Edited: 2011-05-27 00:38:28
May 27 2011 00:37 GMT
#1465
On May 14 2011 14:55 Myrmidon wrote:
Show nested quote +
On May 14 2011 13:53 hellsan631 wrote:
On May 14 2011 13:20 The Prowler wrote:
My pair of HD 595's died last week and my brother was nice enough to give me his pair of 600's. I'm finding that my motherboard isn't really able to power these things though and as a result am looking into investing in an amp.

That said I'm not really a hardcore audiophile and don't really understand the amp/dac combo. Can anyone explain exactly what those do for me? Does the using both and amp and a dac essentially take over all the audio processing from your source or would I still be suffering from using the computer? Will just an amp suffice and does anyone have any recommendations?


+ Show Spoiler [text] +
What an amp does, is it takes a source, and makes it louder (amplifying it).

A DAC (digital to analogue converter) takes a digital source (coax or optical), and converts it to an analog one.

Essentially, if one of these components is bad and introducing noise or not correctly working with the audio, it hinders the other one. You can go from a clean soundcard (200$ or more on that) to a decent amp, then to headphones, as the soundcard is basically a DAC in of itself.
Lets follow the signal of music, shall we?

Music is in the forum of a wave. In order for us to store it on a digital format (completely comprised of 1's and 0's,) we break it up and represent the wave forum in the value of 1's and 0's. (a bit more complicated, but oh well). The best way to do this without any loss of data, is by storing it in the FLAC format, which is almost lossless.

However, in order to listen to it as best as possible, that data, or flac file, needs to be turned back into an analog stream (back into the wave forum) Most modern DAC's do this at an ok level, but they are mostly integrated into your pc (think headphones jack on anything electronic).

The difference between a high-end, external DAC and one of those is the difference between having something in SD or 1080p. However, if your monitor (ala headphones in this example) isn't the best, you won't get all the detail.

So you go out and get a 500$ pair of cans (a set of headphones), and you can now listen to the dac without much trouble.

However, a lot of the top end speakers actually need the signal to be louder, (carrying more power), as the components that make up the headphones won't respond correctly. (speakers are made of magnets. better and bigger require more power)

This is where your amp comes in. It takes that analog source, and makes it louder (increasing current to it), thus allowing you to listen to everything in its full glory.

One weakness in this chain, and you won't have the full experience.


For headphones, an amp often times does amplify the input signal, but the primary purpose of the amp is to replicate the input signal as closely as possible (except that the output may be doubled or whatever--I'm talking about following the shape). That's difficult in practice because of the high current requirements. That's why you need a dedicated device or output stage of a device for exactly that purpose. Different amps will distort in different ways and by different amounts with different loads and different voltage levels. There are a lot of factors involved! An amp may perform well in some regards and more poorly in others. Amps that manage to follow the input very closely under many different situations will be better.

This is why a good amp can sound better than a bad amp even when both are outputting the same volume. It's not just about increasing the volume, but providing a cleaner output (that more closely matches the input).

A lossless audio format like FLAC decodes exactly (no loss) into the source material from which it was encoded. i.e. it's lossless versus the CD. The CD has finite sampling rate (44.1 kHz) and bit depth (16 bits), so that's a digitized and thus lossy representation of whatever the studio master was. Granted, nobody can actually hear the difference between a normal audio CD and the studio master, so that's hardly important. And you may say the signal the microphone picks up in the studio is lossy (noisy) compared to the real thing, but that's a discussion for another day.

To claim that the difference between a relatively cheap DAC and a high-end external DAC is like SD versus 1080p is a gross exaggeration. Also, SD versus 1080p represents how much data there is, not the implementation of how that data is decoded. That's a different domain.


@hellsan631
@Myrmidon
(@anyone with an answer actually...)


You say FLAC is a lossless format, does it record the wave equation precisely? Or is it more of a case that it samples so frequently that the human ear could never tell the difference between the sampled wave and reproduced wave? I was under the impression that analog to digital was done by just sampling the amplitude at given time intervals, so for any finitely sized time interval there will be loss.

Because if it stores it as a wave equation (or superposition of lots of waves at any given time) that would be so unbelievably cool. I guess you then get loss from when measuring it but that kind of ruins it so not going to consider that.
uriel-
Profile Joined August 2007
Singapore1867 Posts
May 27 2011 00:45 GMT
#1466
On May 27 2011 05:23 ieatkids5 wrote:
Show nested quote +
On May 26 2011 16:40 uriel- wrote:
On May 26 2011 14:35 ieatkids5 wrote:
I thought we already had this conversation somewhere in this thread: you don't recommend the RE0 to people who are trying their first "good" pair of IEMs. Yeah it has awesome clarity, but people who have been listening to stock buds can't tell the clarity difference between the RE0 and Meelec M9. Yeah it's supposedly "balanced", but people don't want that, they like their bass. The only time the RE0 should be recommended is if someone really knows what kind of sound signature they want and it matches the RE0's. The rest of the time, 99% of those people will hate the RE0 for lacking bass.

For those who are just stepping into the "good" IEM market, try picking up a cheap pair of Meelec ones to test the waters. They are cheap and miles better than any stock earbud. Pretty much all of them have sound signatures that most people like (it's got the bass you want, and none of them I'd call overpowering). After trying these, you can decide whether you want more or less, whether you think mids are more important, whether you really love sparkly treble, whether you want more clarity/accuracy, etc etc.

But stepping in from stock buds to a $200 pair whose sound signature you don't even know if you like? That's a huge waste of money. Spend a little bit to see what you like, and then invest more. And spend that little bit on something that you have a higher chance of liking (more bass than the supposedly "balanced" headphone like the RE0) than something someone else says is good. Sound and music are subjective. You gotta find out what sounds good to your ears.


The RE0 are $79. They were also my first ever "good" IEMs, and believe me I could appreciate the clarity. I have also introduced them to a decent number of friends as an entry drug into portable audio, and all have been appreciative of the RE0's strengths.

I do agree that the RE0 has a sound signature that is definitely not for everyone, that the thin-bodied bass will be an issue with most mainstream listeners and that there are other entry-level IEMs such as those from MEElec that are likely to hit home with many people. MEElec is of course an excellent budget brand. What I cannot agree with is how you assume anyone who hasn't had a listen to hi-fi in their lives will be completely unable to appreciate good sound, or that everyone who listens to music and aren't self-declared audiophiles are bass-heads. "People can't tell the difference", "people like their bass", well excuse me Sir.

Perhaps I will do to rephrase my previous claim to avoid your ire? IN MY OPINION the RE0s cannot be beat in their price range (which is decidedly not "$200") unless you absolutely need large bass quantity. For what it's worth, after sufficient burn in and after a tip-swap to Shure Olives I found the bass completely sufficient for my needs, and with a cheap amp like the FiiO E5 or with some EQing it's perfectly possible to enjoy a bass quantity that will satisfy most apart from hardcore bass-heads/those who listen exclusively to very bass-heavy genres.

My apologies if I came off as offensive. Just trying to help people out.

i'm not an elitist audiophile. I'm saying people can't tell the difference and that people like their bass because that's how i am and that's how most people are. i don't like the RE0. i like bass. and i can't tell the difference between a westone 3 and an entry level IEM. and most people i know share the same thoughts, so why would it make sense to get something they probably wont like?

another misunderstanding, i should've clarified, the $200 example was directed at people buying extremely expensive headphones when they don't know what they want, it's just a waste of money. wasn't directed at you.


No hard feelings, it's normal for different ears to like different things. I will say different people have different points of diminishing returns: one with extremely sensitive ears or a vast capacity for music might be able to appreciate differences in extremely high-end gear, but for most people the point where additional spending stops giving any additional real quality should come way sooner. It does make sense to figure out what you like and not spend too much further than that for some perceived increase in quality. I apologize if I sounded overly defensive of my views.

At the end of the day the best way is surely to test before you buy. Poke around and find out which shops will allow you to audition their gear before taking the plunge, and it's much harder to go wrong.
kainzero
Profile Blog Joined January 2009
United States5211 Posts
May 27 2011 01:53 GMT
#1467
hello.

i keep breaking headphones. lately my yuin pk2s wires detached from the drivers and the grado sr80s that i had had a wire problem and the left can kept crapping out. i bought a soldering iron but i'm terrible at it so in the meantime i want to buy new headphones.

i got some koss portapros to tide me over at work, but i kinda want something in the $100-$200 range. since i should hopefully be able to repair my Grados, what are some good headphones in that range that don't sound like the grados?

i also have a cmoy amp and my main sources are either my computer or my ipod. should i upgrade those too?
Myrmidon
Profile Blog Joined December 2004
United States9452 Posts
Last Edited: 2011-05-27 02:23:38
May 27 2011 02:17 GMT
#1468
On May 27 2011 09:37 Deadeight wrote:
Show nested quote +
On May 14 2011 14:55 Myrmidon wrote:
On May 14 2011 13:53 hellsan631 wrote:
On May 14 2011 13:20 The Prowler wrote:
My pair of HD 595's died last week and my brother was nice enough to give me his pair of 600's. I'm finding that my motherboard isn't really able to power these things though and as a result am looking into investing in an amp.

That said I'm not really a hardcore audiophile and don't really understand the amp/dac combo. Can anyone explain exactly what those do for me? Does the using both and amp and a dac essentially take over all the audio processing from your source or would I still be suffering from using the computer? Will just an amp suffice and does anyone have any recommendations?


+ Show Spoiler [text] +
What an amp does, is it takes a source, and makes it louder (amplifying it).

A DAC (digital to analogue converter) takes a digital source (coax or optical), and converts it to an analog one.

Essentially, if one of these components is bad and introducing noise or not correctly working with the audio, it hinders the other one. You can go from a clean soundcard (200$ or more on that) to a decent amp, then to headphones, as the soundcard is basically a DAC in of itself.
Lets follow the signal of music, shall we?

Music is in the forum of a wave. In order for us to store it on a digital format (completely comprised of 1's and 0's,) we break it up and represent the wave forum in the value of 1's and 0's. (a bit more complicated, but oh well). The best way to do this without any loss of data, is by storing it in the FLAC format, which is almost lossless.

However, in order to listen to it as best as possible, that data, or flac file, needs to be turned back into an analog stream (back into the wave forum) Most modern DAC's do this at an ok level, but they are mostly integrated into your pc (think headphones jack on anything electronic).

The difference between a high-end, external DAC and one of those is the difference between having something in SD or 1080p. However, if your monitor (ala headphones in this example) isn't the best, you won't get all the detail.

So you go out and get a 500$ pair of cans (a set of headphones), and you can now listen to the dac without much trouble.

However, a lot of the top end speakers actually need the signal to be louder, (carrying more power), as the components that make up the headphones won't respond correctly. (speakers are made of magnets. better and bigger require more power)

This is where your amp comes in. It takes that analog source, and makes it louder (increasing current to it), thus allowing you to listen to everything in its full glory.

One weakness in this chain, and you won't have the full experience.


For headphones, an amp often times does amplify the input signal, but the primary purpose of the amp is to replicate the input signal as closely as possible (except that the output may be doubled or whatever--I'm talking about following the shape). That's difficult in practice because of the high current requirements. That's why you need a dedicated device or output stage of a device for exactly that purpose. Different amps will distort in different ways and by different amounts with different loads and different voltage levels. There are a lot of factors involved! An amp may perform well in some regards and more poorly in others. Amps that manage to follow the input very closely under many different situations will be better.

This is why a good amp can sound better than a bad amp even when both are outputting the same volume. It's not just about increasing the volume, but providing a cleaner output (that more closely matches the input).

A lossless audio format like FLAC decodes exactly (no loss) into the source material from which it was encoded. i.e. it's lossless versus the CD. The CD has finite sampling rate (44.1 kHz) and bit depth (16 bits), so that's a digitized and thus lossy representation of whatever the studio master was. Granted, nobody can actually hear the difference between a normal audio CD and the studio master, so that's hardly important. And you may say the signal the microphone picks up in the studio is lossy (noisy) compared to the real thing, but that's a discussion for another day.

To claim that the difference between a relatively cheap DAC and a high-end external DAC is like SD versus 1080p is a gross exaggeration. Also, SD versus 1080p represents how much data there is, not the implementation of how that data is decoded. That's a different domain.


@hellsan631
@Myrmidon
(@anyone with an answer actually...)


You say FLAC is a lossless format, does it record the wave equation precisely? Or is it more of a case that it samples so frequently that the human ear could never tell the difference between the sampled wave and reproduced wave? I was under the impression that analog to digital was done by just sampling the amplitude at given time intervals, so for any finitely sized time interval there will be loss.

Because if it stores it as a wave equation (or superposition of lots of waves at any given time) that would be so unbelievably cool. I guess you then get loss from when measuring it but that kind of ruins it so not going to consider that.


FLAC is a lossless format in that it provides a digital representation that can be uncompressed (in real time as you listen or whenever) into digital audio data in PCM format that exactly represents the original source data. If you have a normal 16-bit 44.1 kHz stereo audio stream from a CD (or anything else), you can compress it into FLAC. When you uncompress it, you get the exact same data back. This is opposed to lossy compression, where what you get back is something close to the original, but isn't quite the original.

You're talking about the sampling and reproduction of the original sound wave. FLAC and other audio codecs operate on the already sampled and digitized data.

However, yes, it's true that if you sample at a rate of twice the frequency of something you want to observe (say: twice of 20000 Hz or pretty much the range of human hearing), then you can theoretically have a perfect representation of all frequencies at up to that frequency. See the Nyquist-Shannon sampling theorem. By sampling at finite-duration time intervals, you're losing information, but you're losing information here that's above the audio frequency range. Everything in the audio frequency range is captured even if you sample at 44.1 kHz, which may not be an intuitive concept.

As for why this works, it helps to have some background in Fourier analysis. Note that practical considerations prevent a perfect reconstruction from being possible, though you can get close. For audio, it's close enough, with good implementations. 44.1 kHz gives enough of a buffer for practical implementations that people have never been able to distinguish proper implementations with 44.1 kHz sampling rate from something higher like 96 kHz--at least in any credible studies I've heard of.

Most audio codecs store information in the frequency domain rather than time domain samples, but I'm not very familiar with any of the implementations. They tend to be pretty dense. Check the Vorbis spec, as an example of a modern lossy audio codec:

http://xiph.org/vorbis/doc/Vorbis_I_spec.html

edit: please correct me if there's something wrong or provide a simpler explanation. I need to hit the books some more. I wish that DSP class I've been looking at was being offered next semester, but it's not.
sleigh bells
Profile Joined April 2011
United States358 Posts
May 27 2011 06:05 GMT
#1469
On May 19 2011 04:25 JitnikoVi wrote:
i hear beats by dre are the best headphones there are

hell to the no man, any audiophile will laugh at that stuff
Sup son? ¯\__(ツ)__/¯
Deadeight
Profile Blog Joined September 2010
United Kingdom1629 Posts
May 27 2011 10:12 GMT
#1470
On May 27 2011 11:17 Myrmidon wrote:
Show nested quote +
On May 27 2011 09:37 Deadeight wrote:
On May 14 2011 14:55 Myrmidon wrote:
On May 14 2011 13:53 hellsan631 wrote:
On May 14 2011 13:20 The Prowler wrote:
My pair of HD 595's died last week and my brother was nice enough to give me his pair of 600's. I'm finding that my motherboard isn't really able to power these things though and as a result am looking into investing in an amp.

That said I'm not really a hardcore audiophile and don't really understand the amp/dac combo. Can anyone explain exactly what those do for me? Does the using both and amp and a dac essentially take over all the audio processing from your source or would I still be suffering from using the computer? Will just an amp suffice and does anyone have any recommendations?


+ Show Spoiler [text] +
What an amp does, is it takes a source, and makes it louder (amplifying it).

A DAC (digital to analogue converter) takes a digital source (coax or optical), and converts it to an analog one.

Essentially, if one of these components is bad and introducing noise or not correctly working with the audio, it hinders the other one. You can go from a clean soundcard (200$ or more on that) to a decent amp, then to headphones, as the soundcard is basically a DAC in of itself.
Lets follow the signal of music, shall we?

Music is in the forum of a wave. In order for us to store it on a digital format (completely comprised of 1's and 0's,) we break it up and represent the wave forum in the value of 1's and 0's. (a bit more complicated, but oh well). The best way to do this without any loss of data, is by storing it in the FLAC format, which is almost lossless.

However, in order to listen to it as best as possible, that data, or flac file, needs to be turned back into an analog stream (back into the wave forum) Most modern DAC's do this at an ok level, but they are mostly integrated into your pc (think headphones jack on anything electronic).

The difference between a high-end, external DAC and one of those is the difference between having something in SD or 1080p. However, if your monitor (ala headphones in this example) isn't the best, you won't get all the detail.

So you go out and get a 500$ pair of cans (a set of headphones), and you can now listen to the dac without much trouble.

However, a lot of the top end speakers actually need the signal to be louder, (carrying more power), as the components that make up the headphones won't respond correctly. (speakers are made of magnets. better and bigger require more power)

This is where your amp comes in. It takes that analog source, and makes it louder (increasing current to it), thus allowing you to listen to everything in its full glory.

One weakness in this chain, and you won't have the full experience.


For headphones, an amp often times does amplify the input signal, but the primary purpose of the amp is to replicate the input signal as closely as possible (except that the output may be doubled or whatever--I'm talking about following the shape). That's difficult in practice because of the high current requirements. That's why you need a dedicated device or output stage of a device for exactly that purpose. Different amps will distort in different ways and by different amounts with different loads and different voltage levels. There are a lot of factors involved! An amp may perform well in some regards and more poorly in others. Amps that manage to follow the input very closely under many different situations will be better.

This is why a good amp can sound better than a bad amp even when both are outputting the same volume. It's not just about increasing the volume, but providing a cleaner output (that more closely matches the input).

A lossless audio format like FLAC decodes exactly (no loss) into the source material from which it was encoded. i.e. it's lossless versus the CD. The CD has finite sampling rate (44.1 kHz) and bit depth (16 bits), so that's a digitized and thus lossy representation of whatever the studio master was. Granted, nobody can actually hear the difference between a normal audio CD and the studio master, so that's hardly important. And you may say the signal the microphone picks up in the studio is lossy (noisy) compared to the real thing, but that's a discussion for another day.

To claim that the difference between a relatively cheap DAC and a high-end external DAC is like SD versus 1080p is a gross exaggeration. Also, SD versus 1080p represents how much data there is, not the implementation of how that data is decoded. That's a different domain.


@hellsan631
@Myrmidon
(@anyone with an answer actually...)


You say FLAC is a lossless format, does it record the wave equation precisely? Or is it more of a case that it samples so frequently that the human ear could never tell the difference between the sampled wave and reproduced wave? I was under the impression that analog to digital was done by just sampling the amplitude at given time intervals, so for any finitely sized time interval there will be loss.

Because if it stores it as a wave equation (or superposition of lots of waves at any given time) that would be so unbelievably cool. I guess you then get loss from when measuring it but that kind of ruins it so not going to consider that.


FLAC is a lossless format in that it provides a digital representation that can be uncompressed (in real time as you listen or whenever) into digital audio data in PCM format that exactly represents the original source data. If you have a normal 16-bit 44.1 kHz stereo audio stream from a CD (or anything else), you can compress it into FLAC. When you uncompress it, you get the exact same data back. This is opposed to lossy compression, where what you get back is something close to the original, but isn't quite the original.

You're talking about the sampling and reproduction of the original sound wave. FLAC and other audio codecs operate on the already sampled and digitized data.

However, yes, it's true that if you sample at a rate of twice the frequency of something you want to observe (say: twice of 20000 Hz or pretty much the range of human hearing), then you can theoretically have a perfect representation of all frequencies at up to that frequency. See the Nyquist-Shannon sampling theorem. By sampling at finite-duration time intervals, you're losing information, but you're losing information here that's above the audio frequency range. Everything in the audio frequency range is captured even if you sample at 44.1 kHz, which may not be an intuitive concept.

As for why this works, it helps to have some background in Fourier analysis. Note that practical considerations prevent a perfect reconstruction from being possible, though you can get close. For audio, it's close enough, with good implementations. 44.1 kHz gives enough of a buffer for practical implementations that people have never been able to distinguish proper implementations with 44.1 kHz sampling rate from something higher like 96 kHz--at least in any credible studies I've heard of.

Most audio codecs store information in the frequency domain rather than time domain samples, but I'm not very familiar with any of the implementations. They tend to be pretty dense. Check the Vorbis spec, as an example of a modern lossy audio codec:

http://xiph.org/vorbis/doc/Vorbis_I_spec.html

edit: please correct me if there's something wrong or provide a simpler explanation. I need to hit the books some more. I wish that DSP class I've been looking at was being offered next semester, but it's not.




Ah ok, thanks very much, great explanation.
Weson
Profile Blog Joined December 2010
Iceland1032 Posts
May 27 2011 16:47 GMT
#1471
Hi all audiophiles, i got my new AKG K530 around 2 weeks ago and i must say, i've been missing out...
When i bought my Steelseries 5hv2 i bought them because my friends said they sounded good and had a good mic. Well one thing is true in that statement, the 5hv2 has a good mic but the is lacking if you are listening to music.

Now when i'm listening to music i can easily tell if it's a good recording or not. A lot of the music i used to listen to sound like crap now because my new headphones doesn't enchant the music in any way so it sound better, they just play the track close to the sound of the actual recording.

Now i want to ask all fellow audiophiles what cd or track you listen to if you want to listen to a good recording?

Here's my pick:

"!@€#" - as some guy said
Myrmidon
Profile Blog Joined December 2004
United States9452 Posts
May 27 2011 18:11 GMT
#1472
As a benchmark I go with music I'm familiar with (live), so this is one of my favorites for something with good quality that fits the criteria:

Holst: Suite No.1 and No.2 -- there's more on the CD too but those aren't of as much interest
performed by Cleveland Symphonic Winds, conductor Frederick Fennell, Telarc label
JSH
Profile Blog Joined July 2009
United States4109 Posts
Last Edited: 2011-05-27 18:49:21
May 27 2011 18:41 GMT
#1473
On May 27 2011 10:53 kainzero wrote:
hello.

i keep breaking headphones. lately my yuin pk2s wires detached from the drivers and the grado sr80s that i had had a wire problem and the left can kept crapping out. i bought a soldering iron but i'm terrible at it so in the meantime i want to buy new headphones.

i got some koss portapros to tide me over at work, but i kinda want something in the $100-$200 range. since i should hopefully be able to repair my Grados, what are some good headphones in that range that don't sound like the grados?

i also have a cmoy amp and my main sources are either my computer or my ipod. should i upgrade those too?


;_;

I would cry if my PK2s died

as for recommendations, Myrmidon gave a few earlier

On May 27 2011 06:49 Myrmidon wrote:
Show nested quote +
On May 27 2011 05:37 Dakure wrote:
Edit: Oh, can someone recommend any good open headphones $100-150? $150-200?

AKG K601, Sennheiser HD 595/558, I think. Senn HD 598 and Audio-Technica ATH-AD900 may sometimes be under $200. Senn HD 555 / Audio-Technica ATH-AD700 are usually under $100.

Although if you are breaking headphones, maybe you should look into some durable ones
The Sony MDR V6/7506 are built like a tank
They are sub $100 though
"It's called a miracle because it doesn't happen" - Just like my chances of reaching C- on ICCUP
Dyonutborne
Profile Joined January 2011
Netherlands19 Posts
May 27 2011 18:47 GMT
#1474
Steelseries 4H.

They're not the newest one but the sound quality is decent, the mic is awesome
and they we're only €30.

[image loading]
Parsistamon
Profile Joined July 2010
United States390 Posts
May 27 2011 20:44 GMT
#1475
hey guys, my earpads on my M50's are getting rather cracked. Any suggestions on replacements?
kainzero
Profile Blog Joined January 2009
United States5211 Posts
May 27 2011 21:31 GMT
#1476
On May 28 2011 03:41 JSH wrote:
I would cry if my PK2s died

well, i'm also more pissed off that my grados died. =(
but they're both salvageable, somehow, i just gotta figure that part out.

as for recommendations, Myrmidon gave a few earlier

i think the problem is that i need them to be different from the grados. i absolutely suck when it comes to describe music, but the grado's are described as bright. they were great for any guitar-heavy songs, i thought.

when i read the synopsis from headphone.com for the ath-ad900s...
The open-back Audio-Technica ATH-AD900 is amongst the lightest headphones in its class which means unequaled long-term wearing comfort even during extra-long listening sessions. The AD900 sound quality is also stellar with an airy acoustic presence and fully detailed tonal smoothness that's sonically engaging and musically accurate with any genre. Wonderfully galvanizing with complex or densely powerful recordings.

the comfort part appeals to me since grados are terrible for that. but i don't know how it compares to the other cans, and i don't really know any audio stores around me that is serious about headphones so i would have to buy it blind (or deaf... heh).
SixGun
Profile Joined April 2011
United States40 Posts
May 28 2011 01:09 GMT
#1477
so what is the opinion of TL on Bose products?

specifically, the IE2's. Cause I bought some, haven't opened them in case I wanted to take them back,I wanted to consult you guys. I tried a pair of them from a friend who does DCI so he'll be in a charter bus everyday for 3 months pretty much, and he liked them cause of their comfort and sound isolation. I thought they were super comfy, sound quality was alright though. And I couldn't really tell about isolation cause I was in a soundproof room anyways.

So for $75, should I keep them or look for something else? (I'm looking for comfort, isolation, and quality haha)
decafchicken
Profile Blog Joined January 2005
United States20159 Posts
May 28 2011 02:04 GMT
#1478
My klipsch image s4 earbuds are starting to die on me, cable is clearly getting loose near 3.5mm jack (right speaker goes in/out as i move the cable around). I've had em less then a year, can i send them in or something to get them fixed or am i shit out of luck and should start looking for a new pair?
how reasonable is it to eat off wood instead of your tummy?
uriel-
Profile Joined August 2007
Singapore1867 Posts
May 28 2011 02:25 GMT
#1479
On May 28 2011 10:09 SixGun wrote:
so what is the opinion of TL on Bose products?

specifically, the IE2's. Cause I bought some, haven't opened them in case I wanted to take them back,I wanted to consult you guys. I tried a pair of them from a friend who does DCI so he'll be in a charter bus everyday for 3 months pretty much, and he liked them cause of their comfort and sound isolation. I thought they were super comfy, sound quality was alright though. And I couldn't really tell about isolation cause I was in a soundproof room anyways.

So for $75, should I keep them or look for something else? (I'm looking for comfort, isolation, and quality haha)


The common opinion seems to be that Bose is overpriced. I haven't actually heard any (the "audiophile" outlets I visit do not carry Bose) but it is not a brand that comes to mind both in terms of value or quality. Again I'm just echoing the prevailing opinion in audiophile communities - I have never heard a Bose nor do I feel a need to.

On May 28 2011 11:04 decafchicken wrote:
My klipsch image s4 earbuds are starting to die on me, cable is clearly getting loose near 3.5mm jack (right speaker goes in/out as i move the cable around). I've had em less then a year, can i send them in or something to get them fixed or am i shit out of luck and should start looking for a new pair?


S4 cables are known to be a bit thin and not on the durable side. I'm not sure how your warranty works but recables are certainly possible. Foror a phone like the S4 though (inexpensive and honestly not the best) it's probably advisable to look for a new pair.
SixGun
Profile Joined April 2011
United States40 Posts
May 28 2011 03:38 GMT
#1480
Yeah, I know Bose aren't the best and overpriced (I actually own Beats, but Best Bu employee discount . But also, I'm not that big an audiophile. I know what sounds bad and what is good, but I figure below $100, it's all similar
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