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On August 25 2011 06:39 supdubdup wrote:
Anyone here have problems double tapping on their Blue switches? (a myth?)
Actually, despite the people who answered you, it isn't a myth. There are instances which blue switches will fail to register because the release point is above the actuation point. I've ran into this and the only "fix" is fully releasing your key. So, in a way, you just have to learn to double tap differently which doesn't require you to hover your key partially. It isn't a major deal, though.
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On August 26 2011 03:26 Glockateer wrote:Show nested quote +On August 25 2011 06:39 supdubdup wrote:
Anyone here have problems double tapping on their Blue switches? (a myth?) Actually, despite the people who answered you, it isn't a myth. There are instances which blue switches will fail to register because the release point is above the actuation point. I've ran into this and the only "fix" is fully releasing your key. So, in a way, you just have to learn to double tap differently which doesn't require you to hover your key partially. It isn't a major deal, though.
I'm sorry, but it IS a complete myth. Everything about this 'double tapping issue' is nothing but an overreaction. Not even once have I even thought about that while both gaming and typing.
Obviously it will take from a few days to a week to get used to the feel of typing on a keyboard with cherry blues, since it's so different. BUT, if people are still having issues, then they should spend less time reading up about expensive mechanical keyboards, and start working on their typing form.
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On August 26 2011 02:52 how2TL wrote:Show nested quote +On August 24 2011 08:39 DarQraven wrote:
Same here, got a Ninja with browns.
I love the board. It's a hefty investment but the added comfort is definitely worth it. I now know what people meant when they said they can't use regular membrane keyboards anymore. Obviously I can, but it just feels horrible and sluggish.
To dispel some myths though:
- These boards will probably not make you type faster. At all. I notice I'm using less effort to type now, and it feels great, but my WPM still sits around the 90-100 mark and hasn't increased over 2 months of using this board. Maybe if I finally learn proper 10 finger typing instead of the "8-finger" I do now...
- These boards are not that loud. Obviously I'm using brown switches which are supposed to be the silent version, but I've heard people state that even these switches are pretty loud. This is just not true. Banging on my old G15 v2 makes more noise than typing on this one. The mechanical just makes a sort of higher-pitched sound as opposed to the low thuds of membrane keys.
- The bump in the brown switches is definitely there, but it's pretty subtle. If you just start typing on it you probably wouldn't even notice until you slowed down. I've found that physical factors like key location or typing speed have a greater effect on whether I bottom out or not. I can type very lightly, yes, but that's also quite hard to do at a high speed and you occasionally miss a letter here and there. At least I do.
If you're adamant about having clear feedback, get blues. If you just want a really, really solid keyboard with a great light feel and just enough feedback to be able to touch type, browns are perfect.
As for tenkeyless versions, I personally use my numpad quite a lot. Even the Filco with numpad isn't as wide as, say, a G15, so I find complaints of wide keyboards and uncomfortable mouse placement a bit exaggerated. Even now, I've got the keyboard tilted maybe 5-10 degrees left, a good 6 centimeters between the edge of the board to the edge of my mousepad, and then the mouse another 20-25 centimeters away from that edge in a centered position.
When I sit properly and rest my arms on the chair's armrests, my forearms are parallel. And I don't exactly have broad shoulders or anything.
I don't see why you would want to put the mouse and keyboard any closer together than that. A G15 isn't near a normal-sized keyboard. It's not a myth; it's a totally legitimate opinion to want a tenkeyless.
A g15, at least the second version, is pretty much the same as any other gaming board out there. It's the macro keys on the side that add to the total width.
However, and here's the catch and why I mentioned the g15's width - Even using that board, I could sit properly and comfortably, forearms parallel, elbows at the right height, shoulders relaxed, etc.
Unless your board is like two Filco's wide, I can't ever see a smaller board offering a significant advantage in terms of comfort or useful extra space.
This coming from a person using low sensitivity (26cm/360 in Quake) and a 40x50cm mouse pad, so I'm using about the most mousing space anyone will ever need. In addition, I can easily put my Intuos A4 tablet next to even the G15 and draw comfortably while using hotkeys.
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are browns better for double tapping than blues?(with release and actuation points) or are they identical exept for the clicking. ive heard some say its better
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On August 26 2011 03:26 Glockateer wrote:Show nested quote +On August 25 2011 06:39 supdubdup wrote:
Anyone here have problems double tapping on their Blue switches? (a myth?) Actually, despite the people who answered you, it isn't a myth. There are instances which blue switches will fail to register because the release point is above the actuation point. I've ran into this and the only "fix" is fully releasing your key. So, in a way, you just have to learn to double tap differently which doesn't require you to hover your key partially. It isn't a major deal, though.
I have no problem double tapping without completely releasing the key, staying just below the release point but also just above the actuation point, you just have to have a bit of feel for the switch and control of your fingers.
Since that is actually how the switches are set up, I have no idea what the issue is supposed to be. You don't HAVE TO fully release the key, people just DO for some reason and then call it an issue that everyone has and will have.
The only "issue" with it is that for the second button press you won't hear the click on the way down.
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Which type of keys are the best to not suffer from having to double tap, are quite loud and generally a nice feel to them?
Was thinking of the Das Ultimate.
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Hi everyone! I came here for some advice on mech keyboards. I'm pretty new to it but I did read the guide about the different switch type and I've finally came to the conclusion that the browns switch would be what I'm looking for. Now my problem is I'm really not sure witch keyboard I should get. (I did alot of research but im clueless about certain things)
I can't decide between two of them. 1st is the Leopold tenkeyless from elitekeyboard and the 2nd one is the Noppoo Choc Pro fullsize from ebay. The Leopold seems to be a better choice but I don't know, the Noppoo seems pretty good too and would cost me little less than the Leopold. I'm in Canada and the Leopold would cost me 140$ while the Noppoo 122$ both shipping included.
After reading a review from geekhack.org, I've got some concerns about the Noppoo. I've saw some images of both keyboard and is it just me or the alt/win/ctrl keys seems to be smaller on the Noppoo than the Leopold? I'm playing sc2 and some FPS game, the ctrl key is so important and i don't want it to be smaller than other mech boards. I'm a little worried about being able to buy some custom/replacement keycaps for it. If some keys are smaller than other mech boards, i guess this might be a problem, tho it's not a pretty big deal if I can't get new keycaps, I can live without it. Someone mention that POM keycaps are better than ABS so that a plus for the Noppoo but is it possible to buy POM keycaps somewhere or I would have to buy ABS keycaps if I ever want some custom/replacement ones? Another thing is the special feature of the Noppoo, the USB NKRO, anyone have ever tried it? I'm a little skeptical about this one but I could be wrong. Finally, its about the stabilizers for the bigger keys. I know that the Leopold use Cherry-Corp stabilizers but I'm not sure about the Noppoo. I think its some wire-based stabilizers and I would like to know if the Cherry-Corp stabilizers really makes a difference from the wire-based one? Is it worth to put more money to have them? I know I don't talk much about the Leopold but after all the reviews I've read I know the keyboard is perfect for what I need, its just that if I can pay less for a similar quality fullsize keyboard, I will. I love my numpad hehe.
I'm a little bit worried about buying on ebay since the guy doesn't seem to sell much on it but he gives some link to geekhack.org in the description so I guess he might be legit. Anyone ever bought something from him or have any taught about it? Any other suggestion of MXbrown keyboard for around the same price would be appreciate if there's any lol.
Thx guys! (srry for my bad english, I'm doing my best lol)
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I'm not sure how much of a problem the keycaps really are. Yes, pad printed ABS keycaps tend to wear a bit quicker, but we're still talking about a period of 2-3 years of heavy use before that happens.
I've used much worse keyboards than any mechanical you can find that still weren't worn after that period and used the cheapest type of keys possible. I guess how much you 'slide' your fingers while typing and how sweaty/acidic your skin is matters a lot as well.
Your average grade of POM is roughly three times harder than ABS - this doesn't translate directly to a a lifecycle three times as long, but take it as an indication. Your mileage may vary.
My point being, in short: just because there are better keys out there does't mean that the normal ABS ones are necessarily bad. They are still good quality and will last a long time unless you type in a weird way or type an excessive amount. You can probably also have custom titanium/tungsten keys made that will outlive you, but will it even matter?
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On August 26 2011 04:57 Purdy8 wrote:
Which type of keys are the best to not suffer from having to double tap, are quite loud and generally a nice feel to them?
Was thinking of the Das Ultimate.
I don't think you even know what double tapping is. And blues are fine.
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On August 26 2011 05:54 DJFaqU wrote:Show nested quote +On August 26 2011 04:57 Purdy8 wrote:
Which type of keys are the best to not suffer from having to double tap, are quite loud and generally a nice feel to them?
Was thinking of the Das Ultimate. I don't think you even know what double tapping is. And blues are fine.
Derpreply. Blues are functionally fine, but the click goes away after the first press unless you let the key go a bit further up than you need to.
Not really a problem unless you're bashing one key at 1000+ APM with ten fingers.
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Can somebody explain to me how reds and blues feel? I'm using browns at the moment.
Also, do reds wear out?
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On August 26 2011 05:54 DJFaqU wrote:Show nested quote +On August 26 2011 04:57 Purdy8 wrote:
Which type of keys are the best to not suffer from having to double tap, are quite loud and generally a nice feel to them?
Was thinking of the Das Ultimate. I don't think you even know what double tapping is. And blues are fine.
Yeah, not going to lie, i don't really have a clue but i'm not really interested in encountering any problems when i'm paying a lot for a board, and considering it is probably going to be a Das ultimate it'll be a lot in the UK. Could anyone link me to a simple insight on the different types of keys or give me their opinions please.
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I have actually, im trying to source where to buy either a Das or a Filco from in the UK and now to decide between brown and blue switches, thanks a lot for that link btw, it helped a lot.
Think i'll read a bit about the blues as i'm quite keen on the Das and thinking about it i do tend to fully release my key on double tapping and i'm sure it is something i could get used to.
EDIT: Decided on the DAS Ultimate, now to try and source a UK one should be interesting.
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On August 26 2011 04:25 Zurachi wrote:
I'm sorry, but it IS a complete myth. Everything about this 'double tapping issue' is nothing but an overreaction. Not even once have I even thought about that while both gaming and typing.
Obviously it will take from a few days to a week to get used to the feel of typing on a keyboard with cherry blues, since it's so different. BUT, if people are still having issues, then they should spend less time reading up about expensive mechanical keyboards, and start working on their typing form.
I don't understand why you get so defensive over it. It isn't a myth and I also said "it isn't a big deal." A certain amount of people will have to adjust a bit if they try to ride the actuation point.
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If anyone has a DAS ultimate EU or US could they please test setting the keyboard language to UK and see if the DAS input changes, i.e. you can get a £ symbol from shift 3 opposed to @ or whatever it is. Works for my g19 but not sure if it is the same for all keyboards.
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On August 26 2011 22:16 Purdy8 wrote:
If anyone has a DAS ultimate EU or US could they please test setting the keyboard language to UK and see if the DAS input changes, i.e. you can get a £ symbol from shift 3 opposed to @ or whatever it is. Works for my g19 but not sure if it is the same for all keyboards.
Yes, EU layout works for all EU layouts (duhh  ).
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On August 26 2011 22:50 DJFaqU wrote:Show nested quote +On August 26 2011 22:16 Purdy8 wrote:
If anyone has a DAS ultimate EU or US could they please test setting the keyboard language to UK and see if the DAS input changes, i.e. you can get a £ symbol from shift 3 opposed to @ or whatever it is. Works for my g19 but not sure if it is the same for all keyboards.
Yes, EU layout works for all EU layouts (duhh ).
It says 105 german keys on the site or something similar.
Sorry if I come across retardedand asking to many questions inthe thread but it is a lot of Money :p
Don't suppose you tested it?
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Hey guys, I'm trying to decided between xarmor and leopold, brown switches. Anyone have experience with either of them? This will be my first mechanical keyboard, and I'm leaning a bit more towards Leopold, but seems like a lot of korean progamers use xarmor as well..
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EPT
