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[5k][G]Sentenal's Guide to Gunpla

Blogs > Sentenal
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Sentenal
Profile Blog Joined December 2007
United States12398 Posts
Last Edited: 2012-08-04 04:49:31
August 04 2012 04:25 GMT
#1
I've finally hit 5k posts here, so I decided to do another blog like this in celebration of it. You guys might remember my "Guide to Mecha" blog a while back, or my "Guide to Gundam" blog more recently. I briefly touched on one of my hobbies in the Gundam blog, and decided to expand on that for this one.

[image loading]


So lets begin? What is "Gunpla"? Gunpla is short for "Gundam Plastic Model", which are model kits made by Bandai in Japan, depicting robots from the popular anime franchise Mobile Suit Gundam. These model kits are so popular, that it wouldn't at all be a stretch to say that Gundam exists just to sell these things.

"But Gunpla are Japanese. You have to spend money on them. If I wanted to get one, I wouldn't know what to do with it!" Such are common thoughts of people who might want to get one, but then have no clue about what kind they should get, and whats involved in making them. Hopefully, this blog will answer any questions you may have about them, and maybe push you to buying the robot of your dreams. Lets get started.

What Gunpla should I get?


This question is very subjective, but I will try and help you figure it out. The first, most obvious thing to ask yourself, is what robot(s) would you like to have? Were you a fan of Freedom from Gundam SEED? Do you like the Unicorn Gundam? Do you want a certain grunt mobile suit from the original? Just pick a mobile suit you like, as virtually all of the popular ones, and even a ton of obscure ones, have model kits.

Now, you just need to decide on what "Grade" of a kit you would like. There are, in general, about 5 different "Grades" of Gunpla. I'll discuss them here.

Gunpla Grades


The first, most common grade of Gunpla is "High Grade". These Gunpla are the most common, are normally 1/144 scale. They can be anywhere from 4.5 inches tall, to 6 inches in some cases. High Grades are also the most reasonably priced, in terms of quality per dollar. In my own personal collection, the vast majority of them are 1/144 HG kits. If you want to buy a gundam or mobile suit, there is a VERY good chance there is a HG version of it. In terms of quality, recent HG kits are EXTREMELY good, in quality, detail, possibility, and construction. However, older HG kits can lack in many of those areas. As a rule of thumb, most HG Kits made and released from the Gundam SEED era onward are decent kits. The most recent "HGUC" kits (stands of High Grade Universal Century, which are new kits based on the classic series) are very very good. HG Age and 00 suits are very good as well, as are most HG Seed kits. But the older you go, the worse they get. High Grade Gunpla are best for beginners, and are not complicated to make.

The next most common is "Master Grade". Master Grade Gunpla are almost always 1/100 scale, which means they are bigger than most 1/144 kits. They stand anywhere from 6 inches to some really kits being 12 inches tall. The details on these things are top notch, the articulation is very good, and the construction is generally very well done as well. If you really want a nice looking model kit of your favorite Gundam, and they have a MG of it, you might really want to consider getting one. They are more expensive than HGs, and take more effort, but if you want a really nice looking kit, they are worth it. Master Grade Gunpla normally are only made for the most popular suits, and few obscure ones ever get made into this.

Perhaps the most "legendary" types of Gunpla are the "Perfect Grade". PG Gunpla are generally 1/60 scale, which makes them fucking huge. They come in a really huge box, have a ridiculous amount of detail to them, and will take you like 3 years to build. The most famous PG Gunpla are probably the Wing Zero Custom pearl version, and the Strike Freedom Full Burst version. But outside of them, they are all something to look at, but they are only for the rich and/or the hardcore. Do not underestimate these kits, or the amount of money it takes to get them. The Wing Zero Custom and Strike Freedom I mentioned can go for like $300 or more online.

The most recent grade introduced is the "Real Grade". The best way to describe RG kits is that they are Master Grades made into the size of a High Grade. That is to say, they are 1/144 scale kits, with the general level of detail as a Master Grade. They are very nice kits, and I personally prefer the 1/144 scale myself. The problem with these is that its a very new grade, and only a handful of different models exist right now. But if you want a smaller, highly detailed kit of one of the few to get RG treatment, they would be a good buy.

The last type you need to keep in mind is the "No Grade". With all of the different grades I've talked about so far, the actual box of the kit will be labeled with its grade (HG, MG, PG, RG). If there is nothing like that on the box, consider it a NG. No Grades are knock-offs, basically. The quality and articulation on them is really bad. The plastic used to make them is more brittle. They come in both 1/144 and 1/100 sizes. However, they are cheap. If you don't care about quality, and don't have a dynamic pose in mind, and they are a cheap option. But in general, I say avoid these like the plague.

Cost and Where to Buy?


High Grades can go anywhere from $15 to $30, in most cases. Master Grades can go from $30 to $100, with the more rare/popular kits costing more. Perfect Grades are fucking expensive, like $100 at the very cheapest. Real Grades go for around $30. No Grades can be as cheap as $5, to $25 depending on how hard they are trying to scam you.

Now, where to buy? Online is generally the best way. If you live in America, Gundam Store and More is the best place online to order. Other good online options are Robot4Less and HLJ. HLJ has the best selection, but be warned, HLJ is like importing them, so shipping will be extremely high with them, especially compared to GSAM. If you know of any local Anime store, or a Hobby store, its possible they sell Gunpla as well. And finally, Anime Conventions in their Dealer's Room generally have plenty of Gunpla for you to choose from.

Building Gunpla


Okay, so you know all about what kind Gunpla you can get, and where to buy them. But what about building them? What all is involved? Well, how bout I just show you? Well, recently I had a kit that I had bought but not built yet. I've now built it, and took pictures during the process, to show you whats involved, and how I build Gunpla. This is fairly image heavy, so click the spoilers if you want to view it:
+ Show Spoiler +
[image loading]
So here we are, the Gunpla I shall be building for you. This is the 1/144 HG Masurao from Gundam 00s2. Note the HG on the box, and how it also says the scale. No Japanese required.

[image loading]
So I open the box, and this is whats inside. We have a construction manual, and we have the parts, which are individually packaged in clear plastic. Each of those "sheets" are normally referred to as "runners". In order to build the Gunpla, you cut them off the runners, and snap them together, according to the construction manual. You will see.

[image loading]
Now, when I build Gunpla, after I remove them from their plastic packaging, I do something that is called "panel lining". Panel Lining is something that is completely optional. It helps your gunpla look better, but isn't required for it to look nice. First off, you need a Fine Point Black Gundam Paint Marker. PAINT Marker, do not try this with a sharpie pen or I will find you and murder you. Then, you just fill in the little "lines" on the kit, allowing you to see them much better.

[image loading]
See, here is the effect of panel lining. Panel lining is real easy too. Just take your paint marker, and draw over the line you want to ink in. Don't worry, this stuff doesn't dry quickly, it doesn't matter if you go out of the line or whatever, just mark up the bastard. Then just take your finger and wipe it. The paint in the cracks will stay, and the stuff on top that was outside the lines gets wiped away. Generally, the whiter a model kit is, the more panel lining helps. With this Masurao, its mostly black, so I barely need to panel line it at all. Other kits, especially Gundams themselves, have alot of white, so panel lining helps them look better.

[image loading]
This is what the inside of the construction booklet looks like. They give us step by step directions, that are labeled in letters and numbers! So you can read this shit! And look at the picture to see what they are talking about. So, step 1, lets get started. First, the tools of the trade:

[image loading]
I use these wire cutters and an Xacto Hobby Knife. But really, you could do this with a pair of good scissors too. Just something that can cut a little plastic.

[image loading]
Step 1 said I needed A8. Well, there is a runner titled "A", and a piece numbered "8". See how they are labeled on the runner? You locate the correct piece this way.

[image loading]
And I use the wire cutters to cut the piece off. Now, if you look closely, there are little plastic nubs on the piece, from where it was cut off. You normally want to get rid of these little pieces. You can either just try cutting it as close as you can with your wire cutters, sand it (which is a bad idea unless you plan on painting them), or you can use a Hobby Knife to slice it off.

[image loading]
Now, if you look close, I've sliced the nubs off. Now it will look much smoother once I put it together. If you do decide to get a hobby knife for these, be careful. They are really sharp. More on that later.

So, we cut out the pieces we need. We put these "polycaps" in them, which are smaller, more rubbery parts. All thats left is to snap them together. And then just move onto the next step? Easy, right? Lets jump ahead a little bit.

[image loading]
Decal time. Decals are the only thing with Gunpla labeled in japanese, but don't worry! You can just eyeball it. So, we are on piece A1. There is a line pointing at it, showing you apply a decal here. The moonrune labeled decal looks like if you took a 7, and then broke it in half, and then just sat the top part on the bottom part. And on our decal sheet, we have one with a label just like that! So we peel it off, and carefully apply it like how the picture says.....

[image loading]
That was easy. Okay, since it would take like 50 million pictures to go step by step, and I've already shown you the basics, lets turn this on fast forward.

[image loading]
We got us a torso!

[image loading]
Next we build the head. The Masurao apparently has Kamina glasses (from Gurren Lagann).

[image loading]
Okay this part fucking hurt. Look at my middle finger. DO NOT UNDERESTIMATE YOUR HOBBY KNIFE. I DREW BLOOD. Right arm complete.

[image loading]
Left arm made in a similar fashion. Now the upper body has been completed.

[image loading]
Now we move onto the leg. I think I like the construction of this things foot, but in the end, how stable and well built the foot is doesn't matter, since this thing comes with a stand.

[image loading]
Both lets complete. They can stand up.

[image loading]
So now the hip and groin is complete, and the legs are attached. Joints like this, and how good they are overall, vary alot between models. With the Masurao, its legs fall off fairly easy. This would be a pretty big minus, if it wasn't for a stand. However, I have plenty of kits that have great legs, so.......

[image loading]
So the Masuaro is almost complete. Its main body is done, its accessory time.

[image loading]
The Masurao comes with two cool beam katanas. Also, when its legs want to stay on, it stands up well. Also holds its swords pretty good, for nor a kit that doesn't have articulated fingers.

[image loading]
Finally, make the stand, and put it on! Masurao, complete! And it looks pretty good, IMO!


However, victory here was not without costs:
+ Show Spoiler [Warning, picture contains wounds I…] +
[image loading]
I BLEED AND SLICED UP MY FINGERS FOR YOU, TEAMLQUID, GIVE MY BLOG A 5!!!


So basically, at their core, Gunpla are pretty easy to assemble. Do you need a hobby knife? No. Do you need a gundam marker for panel lining? No. Do you need paint? No. Do you need to be able to read Japanese? No.

The main thing is to just enjoy it. I really like building these kits. Sure, its nice to have them, to pose them, and then just admire them after they are done. But the real fun with these kits is building them. Just be sure to not accidentally stab yourself in the face while making them.

Other stuff


So, thats mostly it to Gunpla, in terms of what they are, what kinds there are, and how to build them. Here, I'll share my own personal gunpla collection, that I've amassed over the past few years:
+ Show Spoiler +
[image loading]
[image loading]
[image loading]

What Gunpla do I have? Here is the list:
Gundam stuff:
MG 1/100 Freedom Gundam
MG 1/100 God Gundam
MG 1/100 Strike Gundam
MG 1/100 Turn A Gundam
HG 1/100 Double X Gundam
NG 1/100 Strike Freedom Gundam (not pictured cuz shit)
HG 1/144 Zaku II Ground Type (The Ground War set)
HG 1/144 RX-78-2 Gundam: 30th Anniversary Edition (original Gundam, 30th anniversary kit)
HG 1/144 Kshatriya (yes, 1/144, this sexy beast is fucking huge for a HG)
HG 1/144 Gouf Custom
HG 1/144 Masurao
NG 1/144 BuCue
HG 1/144 Graham's Custom Flag
HG 1/144 Zaku II F2
HG 1/144 RGM-79[G] GM Ground Type
HG 1/144 Exia Avalanche
HG 1/144 X Divider Gundam
HG 1/144 Akatsuki Gundam
HG 1/144 Gundam Ground Type
HG 1/144 Gundam Ground Type: The Ground War
HG 1/144 Nobel Gundam
HG 1/144 Dom Tropen
HG 1/144 AGE-1 Titus
HG 1/144 Tieren Ground Type
2 1/144 Type-61 Main Battle Tanks
2 1/144 Hovercraft thingers from 08th MS Team
SD Zeta Gundam
SD Nu Gundam
SD Kshatriya
SD little tank mobile suit thing from Unicorn
SD Unicorn NT-D mode

Non-Gundam stuff:
Fairion S (SRW OG)
Alteisen (SRW OG)
Daizengar (SRW OG)
Super VF-25J (Macross Frontier)
Gurren Mk 2 (Code Geass)
XFJ-01b Shiranui Second (Muv-Luv Alternative)
F-18 Super Hornet (Muv-Luv Alternative)

Unlisted are things that aren't model kits, like Black Getter and various other anime figures.

Are there model kits for stuff that aren't Gundam?
As you can see from my preceeding list, yes. Although, there isn't nearly as much. Macross and Super Robot Wars stuff tend to get the most love. Recently there has been a steady stream of Muv-Luv kits as well. From Code Geass, both the Gurren and Lancelot got kits, and maybe another type did, but not alot.

One thing to keep in mind about non-Gundam kits, is they are not Bandai kits. A company called Kotobukiya makes them. And while the kits are good, they aren't nearly as good as Bandai kits. Alteisen, for example, is really fucking frustrating to move around, and parts like to fall off. But then the Fairlion S is a great kit. Basically, they are inconsistent, although newer kits are almost always better than older kits. Normally their model kits are around the size of a 1/100 scale Gunpla. The Muv-Luv kits come with stands, and stands ARE GREAT. And each new TSF is better than the last, in terms of construction.

But the main thing about Kotobukiya is the plastic they use isn't nearly as good as the plastic Bandai uses. Now, this isn't a real big deal, except when it comes to nubs. Remember those nubs I sliced off? Bandai plastic does a good job not being too noticable, and likes to hide nubs, but the same can't be said here. Plastic distorts and shows markings easier and nub-marks more easily.




So there you have it, my 5000th post. Thanks for reading. Shout-outs to the guys in #tladt, and Team Courage in the D-Rank Team League.

*****
"Apparently, Sentenal is a paragon of friendship and tolerance. " - Ech0ne
Yaqoob
Profile Blog Joined March 2005
Canada3319 Posts
August 04 2012 06:52 GMT
#2
5/5

<3 Sentenal from SC2GG

I like building stuff but my hobby is those Puzzle3D that were popular about 10 years ago but died out. I was so happy to hear that they are being remade with a different company. Also, I had some train sets that I had hoped to build but they got lost in a move.
김택용 Fighting!
Heh_
Profile Blog Joined April 2012
Singapore2712 Posts
August 04 2012 14:16 GMT
#3
Awesome read, especially because I'm about to build my first gunpla (MG, I'm in deep shit lol). One thing I noticed is that you don't use sandpaper to file off the remnants of the nubs?
=Þ
docvoc
Profile Blog Joined July 2011
United States5491 Posts
August 04 2012 15:24 GMT
#4
Great post dude, gratz on the 5k :D. I think that building things as a hobby might not be for me, but its really cool that you guys can get into it ^^. I think one of the coolest things about TL and the SC1/SC2 community here is that we have a common bond and yet we are so diverse that everyone here can experience just completely opposite things than they are used to.
User was warned for too many mimes.
Sentenal
Profile Blog Joined December 2007
United States12398 Posts
August 04 2012 16:40 GMT
#5
On August 04 2012 23:16 Heh_ wrote:
Awesome read, especially because I'm about to build my first gunpla (MG, I'm in deep shit lol). One thing I noticed is that you don't use sandpaper to file off the remnants of the nubs?

Sandpaper can leave marks, which is why I use a hobby knife instead. And pretty much the only solution to sandpaper scratching your model is to paint over the scratches.

And if you are making a MG first, good luck! The main difference between a MG and the one I built for this topic is how many smaller parts you have to work with, and how much pieces in general you gotta work with!
"Apparently, Sentenal is a paragon of friendship and tolerance. " - Ech0ne
Heh_
Profile Blog Joined April 2012
Singapore2712 Posts
August 04 2012 16:43 GMT
#6
On August 05 2012 01:40 Sentenal wrote:
Show nested quote +
On August 04 2012 23:16 Heh_ wrote:
Awesome read, especially because I'm about to build my first gunpla (MG, I'm in deep shit lol). One thing I noticed is that you don't use sandpaper to file off the remnants of the nubs?

Sandpaper can leave marks, which is why I use a hobby knife instead. And pretty much the only solution to sandpaper scratching your model is to paint over the scratches.

And if you are making a MG first, good luck! The main difference between a MG and the one I built for this topic is how many smaller parts you have to work with, and how much pieces in general you gotta work with!

I'm using a special fine-grain sandpaper specially for model kits. Even if you rub it over your skin, you don't feel anything. My MG set has over 10 runners... glhf to me.
=Þ
Chiharu Harukaze
Profile Joined September 2011
12112 Posts
August 04 2012 16:53 GMT
#7
Very nice. Will use this when I finally earn enough money to buy gunpla haha.

Since you mentioned using the Xacto to trim mould lines, how big of a deal is this generally? To the pieces come off the frames well enough that it's only minor details that needs to be cleaned, or is it more than that? Also, how flexible and strong are the joints in general?
It's like, "Is the Federation's Mobile Suit some kind of monster?"
Sentenal
Profile Blog Joined December 2007
United States12398 Posts
August 04 2012 17:17 GMT
#8
On August 05 2012 01:53 Chiharu Harukaze wrote:
Very nice. Will use this when I finally earn enough money to buy gunpla haha.

Since you mentioned using the Xacto to trim mould lines, how big of a deal is this generally? To the pieces come off the frames well enough that it's only minor details that needs to be cleaned, or is it more than that? Also, how flexible and strong are the joints in general?

I did a quick search, and found a common example of a Gunpla that doesn't trim nubs:

[image loading]

So, I guess it isn't really a big deal, but you can still see little bits of plastic sticking out here and there. On this one, notice the inside of its thighs. Thats what it will look like if you don't trim the nubs. I try to make my kits look as nice as possible, so I just go the extra mile for them.

How strong and flexible joints are depends strongly on what kit you are getting. But a rule of thumb is the more "unconventional" a design is, the less good the joints are. The Masurao's joints where the leg meets the hip is really weak, for instance, but something with a more conventional design like the AGE-1 Titus or X Divider has great joints pretty much all around. Another rule of thumb is the newer the kit, the better the joints are. And finally, MG and RG joints are all generally a ton better than HG joints.
"Apparently, Sentenal is a paragon of friendship and tolerance. " - Ech0ne
Kupon3ss
Profile Joined May 2008
時の回廊10066 Posts
Last Edited: 2012-08-04 17:21:07
August 04 2012 17:18 GMT
#9
On August 05 2012 01:53 Chiharu Harukaze wrote:
Very nice. Will use this when I finally earn enough money to buy gunpla haha.

Since you mentioned using the Xacto to trim mould lines, how big of a deal is this generally? To the pieces come off the frames well enough that it's only minor details that needs to be cleaned, or is it more than that? Also, how flexible and strong are the joints in general?


It depends on what kind of kit and how much detail u want, if u cut the pieces out carefully with wirecutters/sizzors/nail clippers/whatever there's generally very little minor details left, and often times u can just cut it a bit more with your tools.

Going over it with an Xacto knife is optional but does it make look quite a bit nicer, it usually doesn't actually have much effect on putting it together. I've personally put together an MG kit using only my hands to remove and assemble all the pieces (god that hurt) in 4 hours on a challenge from a friend

Joints wise, it depends, each kit has their quirks, for example, the MG Hi-Nu kit's right arm joint is actually slightly too weak, which results in you not being able to make certain poses with the gigantic and heavy shield attached, but generally the joints are quite solid, especially on the newer kits
When in doubt, just believe in yourself and press buttons
Frankon
Profile Joined May 2010
3054 Posts
August 22 2012 09:08 GMT
#10
Well the newer MG kits (that arent a rehash of older ones) are mostly using undergates so no need to worry about nubs.

Here are my HGUC
[image loading]
Yeah i know my cell phone camera sux
From left: Gaplant, Hy-Goog, S-Gundam, Bawoo Prototype, Gabthley

Hy-Goog and S-Gundam were my first gunplas and i did some major mistakes on them (man you Do learn on your mistakes). They are still hand painted, although im considering repainting Hy-Goog with airbrush later.

Bawoo is airbrushed, panelined, and topcoated.

Gaplant and Gabthley are awaiting their turn - right now they are only test assembled to see what i shouldn't do to screw them up ^^.
I have a few ideas at the changes to the Gaplant i would like to do - small cosmetic changes that would improve some parts of the kit without much altering the overall design.

Something along the line of changes done to this kit
http://gundamguy.blogspot.com/2010/04/hg-1144-stark-jegan-completed.html
The author put side a side a modified and unmodified pieces.

I have a MG that had a unfortunate encounter with my younger cousin - waiting for replacement parts from Japan so i can finish painting and detailing the kit. So no pictures of it for now

Overall Gunplas are a fun hobby.

Can't wait for the Gunplas i ordered for my B-day (heck you still need a excuse to order some ^^) that are still a bit held back due to the fact that Hambrabi realease date is in 2 days so it will be a while when i get my hands on them all.

PS: Sentenal you forgot to include the SD in the Gunpla Grades.
The old SD's are dirt cheap and are around 1/3 - 1/2 of 1/144 kit.
The new SD's are a bit more expensive but they are pretty well detail.

Cant wait for the SD Bound Doc to arrive which i have plans to convert into Maid Doc.
GMarshal
Profile Blog Joined March 2010
United States22154 Posts
August 22 2012 12:35 GMT
#11
Very cool blog. I've always liked building things, and its neat to see how nice these turn out.
Moderator
Frankon
Profile Joined May 2010
3054 Posts
September 12 2012 08:48 GMT
#12
Got my package on monday.

SD Bound Doc is cute. Right now im preparing it for customizing (project Maid Doc maybe ill do a blog on it)

RG Justice is simply stunning. Spend around 3-4h on it yesterday and only managed to build it up to torso part. The amount of detail is stunning and the RG inner frame beats the MG inner frame hands down. When it comes to its working its almost as good and detailed as a PG kit. Gonna post pictures of it with my louse cell camera when ill get back home from work.

So advice to all. Get RG its insane detailed and fun to build. Especially after seeing the inner frame for the first time and wondering how the hell will it work ^^
Ushio
Profile Blog Joined June 2010
Canada868 Posts
Last Edited: 2013-02-04 02:44:01
February 04 2013 02:41 GMT
#13
This thread deserves more love. Great guide Sent could definitely tell you put alot of work into this. Planning on getting 3 kits myself. Building it looks fun, like putting together legos
http://myanimelist.net/profile/billng
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