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When using this resource, please read the opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20323 Posts
For the prize i think its pretty good, for 20$ more i have i7 i7 costs like $90 more than i5, they're just overcharging you less on the i7 build. Why did you ask if it was good if you was only going to accept one answer? You can have a better build assembled for you for cheaper. | ||
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zerK
Canada176 Posts
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zerK
Canada176 Posts
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zerK
Canada176 Posts
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Cyro
United Kingdom20323 Posts
Cooler Master HAF 912 Combat RC-912-KWN2 ATX Mid-Tower Case Cooler Master GXII 650W RS650-ACAAB1-US 80PLUS Bronze ASUS Z87-K LGA1150 ATX Intel Z87 Chipset MOBO Intel Core i7 4770 3.4GHz 8MB Cache LGA1150 84W Quad-Core BX80646I74770 Processor Kingston HyperX blu black KHX16C9B1BK2/8X 8GB Kit (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Intel XMP CL9 Samsung 840 EVO 120GB MZ-7TE120BW SATA 6Gb/s 2.5" SSD Given canada prices and the fact that you have case, z87 and i7, it's not terrifyingly bad, just saying you could do better with combination that makes more sense I do work in computer You're not the only onei see no valide argument one your thought, pretty bad helping... Think i said this before, but why post if you only want one answer and insist on being right? I'm pretty sure more than a few others in thread would say most of the stuff that i did I was under impression that you were buying (like basically everyone else), not already made purchase | ||
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zerK
Canada176 Posts
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Cyro
United Kingdom20323 Posts
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($239.99 @ Memory Express) Motherboard: MSI H81M-P33 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($50.99 @ Canada Computers) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($83.97 @ DirectCanada) Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($94.79 @ DirectCanada) Power Supply: SeaSonic 300W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($48.98 @ Newegg Canada) Total: $518.72 (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.) (Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-07 16:07 EST-0500) ^add $90 for i7 and then case price your main added expenses are just extra i7 cost, z87 extra cost probably OS cost. I don't know much of that PSU but it's seasonic and labeled 80+ bronze, though it's probably better to spend a bit more for a higher capacity/better unit. That's just a cheapo build and the PSU would be suitable for a locked haswell quad and a 750ti, for example, which would be a good system w/ 8gb RAM and SSD. I also see where you're coming from there, but if you got z87 for the same price as h81 and i7 for the same price as i5, your price wouldn't be @$875 without a GPU  | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
4770k @ $360 http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=16950BD4219 Samsung 840 EVO 120GB @ $95 http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=33990DR0764 Z87-K @ $120 http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=8139498 2x4GB 2133MHz @ $94 http://products.ncix.com/detail/g-skill-ripjawsx-f3-17000cl11d-8gbxl-8gb-2x4gb-c8-61213.htm Capstone 650-M @ $110 http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182263 Arc Midi R2 @ $105 http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352031 $889, $20 more than $875 and has a way better case, way better power supply, better RAM, and a 4770k. | ||
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Craton
United States17275 Posts
I estimate the center of the held monitor would need to be at least 24 inches above the table (ideally with room to go higher just in case). The arm would need to extend outward about 9 inches horizontally from the rear center (where I plan to clamp it). Needs to hold no bigger than 24" each at roughy 10 lbs each (though ~15 each would be a bonus). I've had a great deal of trouble finding "extra tall" arms that aren't absurdly expensive (like $400+, many over $500 or $600). My price limit for this is about $250, though I would obviously be amenable to anything lower  . I looked through about 800 offerings on Amazon so far. Failing that, I guess two single mounts would be agreeable. This was one of the possibilities I came across, but it doesn't seem like it'd be tall enough with the relatively short extension amount I have available: http://www.thehumansolution.com/innovative-7flex-lcd-monitor-arm.html Bolded some parts to help the dimensions stand out. I can take a picture of the area if it would help. Thanks! | ||
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coL.hendralisk
Zimbabwe1756 Posts
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Craton
United States17275 Posts
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Incognoto
France10239 Posts
Unless I'm mistaken the 2 2x2 pin header is for the CPU, right? My own motherboard uses a single 2x2 pin header for the CPU. In which case the 2 2x2 pin header is the right spot.. What else do you have connected? Maybe it's your old PSU going bad? Or perhaps something shorted out on your motherboard? Anything remotely conductive could short out a motherboard, even just a static discharge from taking off a sweater. So perhaps it's that? | ||
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coL.hendralisk
Zimbabwe1756 Posts
adding info Got this motherboard http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131964 Using i5 2320 and a 500W coolermaster psu for almost 2 years now, no issues at all. Tonight I swapped the mobos, installed new ram, switched hd to an ssd and aftermarket cpu cooler. My older one only needed a 4pin for the power supply (along with the big thing) but this one needed an 8pin. My psu didn't have an 8pin but has 4 4pins, so I plugged 2 of em in side by side into the 8 pin (and the big thingy with the big pin like my old mobo). Yeah I think for cpu. What do I do now to test which parts are still working? Is it safe to try to open the power supply | ||
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Incognoto
France10239 Posts
http://www.coolermaster.com/powersupply/extreme/extreme-power-plus-500w/ If it's a blown capacitator then you might as well do a quick visual inspection, since it shouldn't be too hard to spot. You could easily start by looking at the motherboard. If nothing seems damaged there, then it's already a good sign? Do you have a spare PSU around? You could use that to test the motherboard (this is just speculation on my part but I don't think the CPU/RAM/SSD were affected). I want to blame the PSU but I can't be sure. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
If you're saying you have four of these things than something is fishy... And for future reference, you often only need a 4pin connector plugged in to boot even if it's a 8pin connector. Power supplies are dangerous, you should never open one up. | ||
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Craton
United States17275 Posts
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coL.hendralisk
Zimbabwe1756 Posts
Is this a good test? http://www.corsair.com/en-us/blog/2011/may/testing-your-corsair-power-supply The capacitors look fine on my motherboard (none of them look melted), same with gpu. It was just a pop when I pressed the power button and a whiff of smoke. | ||
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Incognoto
France10239 Posts
On March 08 2014 15:14 Craton wrote: Capable of serious shock even after not being plugged in for an extended period of time kinds of dangerous. didn't know that, how scary q_q sorry for dangerous advice how long should you wait? the way I understood things is that the 2 2x2 pin thing is the 4+4 EPS thing: http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/eps4plus4.jpg ^That's plugged in the CPU socket (or whatever it's called). Maybe it's being confused with the molex connectors? https://www.google.fr/search?q=molex connector&espv=210&es_sm=122&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=RLkaU5mMJKXb7AaY8oHIDw&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1600&bih=775 But molex connectors can't be plugged into the motherboard. At this point though I just think that the PSU fried or something. From the little I've seen in the PSU world, it seems it's not hard to find bad ones. Maybe putting in all 8 pins in the motherboard put too much of a strain on the PSU and fried something. | ||
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coL.hendralisk
Zimbabwe1756 Posts
On March 08 2014 15:32 Incognoto wrote: didn't know that, how scary q_q sorry for dangerous advice how long should you wait? the way I understood things is that the 2 2x2 pin thing is the 4+4 EPS thing: http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/eps4plus4.jpg ^That's plugged in the CPU socket (or whatever it's called). Maybe it's being confused with the molex connectors? https://www.google.fr/search?q=molex connector&espv=210&es_sm=122&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=RLkaU5mMJKXb7AaY8oHIDw&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1600&bih=775 The first pic is what I plugged in I think, will upload pic. The molex thing is what my case fan is attached to. Hm but I was using it fine until a few hours ago for 2 years! Just swapped the mobo and the problem started  Pics of pretty much all that I hooked up to my psu (took out my 2 sticks of ram and gpu): http://imgur.com/BsrzqE0 http://imgur.com/tK3p3j7 http://imgur.com/NXzop3F http://imgur.com/puYnX9C http://imgur.com/Ez56y8J http://imgur.com/IMCjLXd Oh and I wore a hoodie and sweatpants, assembled it on a wooden floor if that makes any diff. I think I'm just gonna pick this up tomorrow in stores and hook it up to my system http://m.ncix.com/products/sku/78576 | ||
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Craton
United States17275 Posts
On March 08 2014 15:19 coL.hendralisk wrote: Oh ok won't be opening it up. I'm guessing the 4 4pin things i have aren't the same thing then? Uhmmm, any chance you guys could chat to me on fb so I can show you pics through my phone? :S I wanna test the parts if I can to see what's working but I dunno if it's too risky or not to attempt booting Well they're usually keyed such that you can't plug the wrong thing into the wrong slot. About the only things you can still screw up are the 3/4 pin fan headers by having them off-center (so a pin is not plugged in, the plug is hanging off to the side) or not having something securely connected/plugged in. Even if your PSU was underpowered I wouldn't expect the result you got, since I doubt it had significant load at that early into boot (and I'm pretty sure would normally just shut off anyway). You didn't by chance flip the 110/220V switch on the back of the PSU? A burst capacitor looks kind of like this: http://www.pcstats.com/articleimages/200302/capblown_6.jpg Basically ruptured somewhere and potentially fluid having leaked out. It's rather subtle much of the time. But I really don't know what else makes a "pop" that isn't a capacitor. Nothing really jumps out at me from your pictures as being an issue, though I don't think your front panel pins are plugged in correctly (power). Yeah, your pins are almost definitely plugged in wrong. Power should be the top middle two (the row w/ the empty pin in the corner). You've got it spanned vertically across power and reset. ![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/P0yrUup.jpg) ![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/A0NAAvp.jpg) | ||
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