|
When using this resource, please read the opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. |
On August 30 2013 23:32 distant_voice wrote:+ Show Spoiler +First of all, thank you Skyr for making the thread. It must have been a lot of work and I appreciate that.
I have read it all and come up with this build for me (it's mostly what you suggested to merK):
Case: Fractal Define R4 Motherboard: Gigabyte Z87X-D3H PSU: Seasonic S12II-520 CPU: Intel Core i5 4670K RAM: Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB 1600Mhz (I know you recommend G.Skill 2133 RAM but I read negative customer feedback on Amazon which makes me unsure about them.) HDD: WD Caviar Blue 1TB Heatsink: still on the fence whether to order the Noctua NH-U12S right away or try the boxed cooler first.
The rest: SDD: I already have a Samsung 840 250 GB SDD sleeping in my current PC that doesn't even have SATA3. GPU: I intend to reuse my 9800GT (which is far too slow for a build like this) until there's a game that really needs a good graphics card. I know that I'll be able to play stuff like Starcraft II and Diablo III with this and that's all I need for now. When Star Citizen will come out I will invest in a great graphics card so that I'll then be able to enjoy that at high settings.
What I want is: I want to buy something that will last for along time. I'd rather invest 100$ more now and be able to upgrade in the future than save now and not be able to upgrade. That's why I'm thinking about overclocking and SLI. A very quiet PC. It should be very hard to hear it running when I'm only browsing the web. Something that's future-proof. I stuck with my old PC for about 8 years and only upgraded it with used parts after 6 years. By future proof I mean that I will be able to run Star Citizen when it comes out at reasonably high settings. Other than that I don't want to swap things out, but would rather add to what I already have if that makes sense.
My concerns: Overclocking: With the build above I could overclock my CPU. Should I completely avoid that since it won't be worth it? I'm not an enthusiast and don't want to overclock for the sake of overclocking. SLI/Crossfire: With the mobo above I can think about using two graphics cards should I ever get the money and need to to it. The reason why I'm even considering this is that in four years or so I might be able to just slam another graphics card in there (which will be a lot cheaper then) instead of buying a new one. Is that a valid thought? And will I need a new PSU then? Because if so I'd rather buy it right away. Would a Seasonic 700 be enough for let's say two GTX 770s? Occulus Rift: Does the Occulus Rift take advantage of multiple GPUs? Let's say I'll get one or something similar in the future. Is it a reason to think about going the SLI route or not?
Worth is subjective. But the typical consumer doesn't overclock for the sake of overclocking. A 4670 at 4.5GHz is going to have a longer useful life than one at 3.5GHz. And it certainly helps if you're trying to play the newest simulators, MMOs, and RTS, all of which tend to be CPU intensive. If you want SLI as an upgrade possibility then you'll need a Z87 board so you might as well get a 4670k and be able to overclock it if you so choose.
Yes, you would want a 650w or 750w power supply if you want to potentially do SLI. A modular unit would also be suggested since it makes cable management easier which in turn makes adding in / upgrading things easier. Seasonic X and Platinum units (and other similar units from other brands) also come with a seven year warranty as opposed to the five or three found on the rest of the power supplies.
SLI is as well subjective. If you think that the advantage of it being less expensive than an equivalent performing future video card outweighs the disadvantages, which include:- Generating more heat and consuming more power, which typically results in more noise. The video card is already the loudest component in a modern computer so adding another one... errr.
- Lack of (good) SLI support. Though I think this generally isn't a problem anymore.
- Potential failure. Two aging cards that are both out of warranty.
- Lack of memory. It was only three or so years ago where 1GB was considered more than enough. Now we have games using close to 3GB at 1080p on max settings.
- Micro-stuttering. I hope you're ignorant of this otherwise it's going to annoy the crap out of you.
|
On August 31 2013 06:39 a176 wrote: wtf happened to RAM prices $60-80 for 8GB ? smh
DDR4 and mobile market means cutting down on DDR3 production.
|
@Gihi:
What's with that case!? Never knew Gigabyte made a case. You should go for something normal like Fractal Design Arc Midi R2.
Choose a different air cooler. A tower style cooler is a much better choice (Phanteks PH-TC14PE if you want Phanteks). That top-down cooler you are looking at is good at cooling the motherboard which you don't need. An expensive motherboard stays pretty cool at all times even when overclocking the CPU heavily.
If you want a case with flipped motherboard position like that case you have on your list, you might want to look at the Silverstone Temjin TJ08-E. It's a bit ridiculous but looks fun to me. As far as I know, its air cooling performance is excellent. You would need an mATX motherboard for that case. If you want to stay with Gigabyte, there's the "G1.Sniper M5" mATX board which should be similarly priced as the GA-Z87X-OC you have on your list. A large air cooler should still fit as mATX boards that are intended for overclocking make sure to leave a good amount of space between CPU socket and first graphics card slot. The PSU might not fit well with the Temjin TJ08-E as it is a strange case which you'll see if you look at pictures. It could be fine if your PSU is modular and you don't need an optical drive.
EDIT: Are you sure you need 16gb RAM? Even if you need 16gb, you should see what you can get as a 2x8gb kit.
|
On August 31 2013 06:39 a176 wrote: wtf happened to RAM prices $60-80 for 8GB ? smh
More like whoohoo - time to sell your older DDR3 kits hahah. Though if you can afford to wait, I'd wait until DDR4 adoption is in full swing to get even better pricing on old kits.
But really $20 is not going to make or break a build.
|
On August 31 2013 06:22 Gihi wrote:+ Show Spoiler +First of all, I'd like to thank you guys for your work here, I'm just an amateur but I try to contribute from time to time. I have, however, never ordered a whole computer. I've put together a couple with the parts provided but I figured some criticism can't hurt! ^^ What is your budget?Say 1500 euros, trying to spend less though. I'm currently around 1200. What is your monitor's native resolution?I use one 1200p and one 144hz 1080p simultaneously. What games do you intend to play on this computer? What settings?Pretty much whatever I want, on the highest settings. I play Starcraft, WoW, LoL, the latest CoD. I plan to play ESO, probably some GTA V. I realise I will probably have to turn down some settings if I want to utilize 144hz ^^ What do you intend to use the computer for besides gaming?Streaming, recording, editing. I don't edit on a day to day basis, but I like to do it as fast as possible when I do it. Do you intend to overclock?I have little experience overclocking, but I would like to overclock my CPU to at least 4.5 without liquid cooling, I don't know about the GPU, why not I guess. Do you intend to do SLI / Crossfire?No. Do you need an operating system?No. Do you need a monitor or any other peripherals and is this part of your budget?No. If you have any requirements or brand preferences, please specify.I prefer Nvidia and Intel, I don't really know why anymore, I guess most rumors/problems are from years ago, but still I tend to lean towards Nvidia and Intel. I also prefer brands who actively sponsor e-sports, but I guess most do. What country will you be buying your parts in?I'll be buying tax free in Belgium. If you have any retailer preferences, please specify.The site I will order most parts from is www.2by2.beIt's my dad's company their main supplier, and I'm ordering via the company, so it seems only right plus it looks better in the books. What I've "put" together so far: - PHANTEKS PH-TC14CS CPU-Cooler - Counting on 50 euros for this one, I'll have to order it via another site than 2by2. - INTEL HASWELL CORE i7 4770K 3.5G LGA1150 BOX -263.22 Euro excluding VAT, I realise the 4670k is probably better price/performance for gaming, but don't wish to save on my CPU. - G167 Gigabyte GTX 780 OC GPU WF3X 2 Slot 450W 3GB GDDR5 Dual -482.37 Euro excluding VAT - CASE GIGABYTE LUXO M 10 Black MIDI TOWER w/o PSU -47.48 Euro excluding VAT, I just picked a semi random one, if u guys have other suggestions, suggest away! I would like a white pc with blue parts and LEDs, but that's by no means a priority. - 2.5" SAMSUNG SSD 840 EVO 6Gb/sec Solid State 250Gb -122.99 Euro excluding VAT, it was suggested in this thread, I just wanted a 200ish one that has decent write/read. I don't worry about any other storage yet, have an old 7200 RPM 320gb Seagate lying around and I store my media on a NAS. - G.Skill RipjawsZ 4x4GB DDR3-2400 MHz -??? Euro excluding VAT, I have to be honest I picked some random Kingston 1600MHz set here, thanks for the sample build thread! I'm willing to buy 2400 MHz if it's not too much of a price difference. I haven't found a dealer for 4x4GB at 2400 in Europe that wasn't overpriced. The cheapest I have found are these for 175,6 including VAT. I don't know if this is a reasonable price, but I suspect so. - G318 GIGABYTE GA-Z87X-OC ATX LGA 1150 DDR3 SATA3 -157.38 Euro excluding VAT. I am quite sure this is not the right motherboard for me, I kind of blindly picked one and I am hoping someone here can suggest the right one for me. +1 if your suggestion comes in blue! ^^ - I still have a 650W Adata modular PSU lying around. - Figure I will be ok with 650W, if not, do tell! It has an 8 pin and 6 pin. I came to a total of about 1142 euro with the above, which I find a good amount to spend on it. If u have suggestions that are worth the price/performance, please enlighten me. I don't mind spending more if it's worth it.
That case you has a lackluster interior, is also ugly imo, and doesn't have a windowed side panel which should be important to you if you care about the aesthetics of your internal components. A Fractal Design Define R4 White Windowed case is the obvious choice for a white case. Corsair and NZXT cases also come in white.
Z87X-OC is a board for overclocking on an open bench. Not a board you want to pay premium for when you're buying a case. The Z87X-D3H will be significantly less expensive and still be overkill for a novice overclocker.
You want a tower heatsink like the Noctua NH-U14S or PH-TC14PE because these perform better. Top-flow heatsinks should only be considered for small cases where there isn't enough clearance for a tower heatsink.
You want 2x8gb rather than 4x4gb.
|
On August 30 2013 15:28 skyR wrote:Show nested quote +On August 30 2013 13:21 Leeoku wrote:+ Show Spoiler +This post is exactly what I'm looking for. Planning to buy / build a desktop this holiday. I will post into the format later. 10/5 stars given.
Just a side question, I plan to buy stuff for deals on boxing day/black friday. Have you had experiences or suggestions for that (since the planning is kinda last minute) You have two entire months to plan your purchases for the months of November and December. Holiday shopping is only last minute planning if you let it be. You're probably thinking "how do I plan if I don't know what's going to go on sale". Well if you put in some effort, you can get a very good idea of what's going to be on sale. And you still have the budget to plan anyways, eg. what is the most I am willing to spend on each part? Leaving this until last minute is just stupid because you end up overspending or worse yet, not having enough money and ending up with a shitty configuration. I mentioned this in the OP. HDDs and SSDs are going to go on sale, this is a given. Samsung 840 and Intel 330 are both almost guaranteed to go on sale because the Samsung 840 is approaching end of life (being replaced by the 840 EVO) and Intel 300 series has had mail in rebate sales for the last three years. There are several other items that are guaranteed to go on sale as well such as the Seasonic X (or maybe it'll be Platinum this year), Ultrasharps, ~$100+ cases such as the Define R4, etc. Many retailers have moved towards Black November and Boxing Month so you want to start start shopping early. Late October is a good idea. Check your retailers several times throughout the day and keep your eyes on Slick Deals (or Redflagdeals for Canadians) for deals. Many of the best deals don't happen on Black Friday or Boxing Day. Those two days typically just end up being a rehash of the previous deals with a few extra's thrown in. What's boxing day?
|
On August 31 2013 07:38 nosliw wrote:Show nested quote +On August 30 2013 15:28 skyR wrote:On August 30 2013 13:21 Leeoku wrote:+ Show Spoiler +This post is exactly what I'm looking for. Planning to buy / build a desktop this holiday. I will post into the format later. 10/5 stars given.
Just a side question, I plan to buy stuff for deals on boxing day/black friday. Have you had experiences or suggestions for that (since the planning is kinda last minute) You have two entire months to plan your purchases for the months of November and December. Holiday shopping is only last minute planning if you let it be. You're probably thinking "how do I plan if I don't know what's going to go on sale". Well if you put in some effort, you can get a very good idea of what's going to be on sale. And you still have the budget to plan anyways, eg. what is the most I am willing to spend on each part? Leaving this until last minute is just stupid because you end up overspending or worse yet, not having enough money and ending up with a shitty configuration. I mentioned this in the OP. HDDs and SSDs are going to go on sale, this is a given. Samsung 840 and Intel 330 are both almost guaranteed to go on sale because the Samsung 840 is approaching end of life (being replaced by the 840 EVO) and Intel 300 series has had mail in rebate sales for the last three years. There are several other items that are guaranteed to go on sale as well such as the Seasonic X (or maybe it'll be Platinum this year), Ultrasharps, ~$100+ cases such as the Define R4, etc. Many retailers have moved towards Black November and Boxing Month so you want to start start shopping early. Late October is a good idea. Check your retailers several times throughout the day and keep your eyes on Slick Deals (or Redflagdeals for Canadians) for deals. Many of the best deals don't happen on Black Friday or Boxing Day. Those two days typically just end up being a rehash of the previous deals with a few extra's thrown in. What's boxing day? What 'muricans call 25th 26th of December iirc.
|
On August 31 2013 07:41 r.Evo wrote:Show nested quote +On August 31 2013 07:38 nosliw wrote:On August 30 2013 15:28 skyR wrote:On August 30 2013 13:21 Leeoku wrote:+ Show Spoiler +This post is exactly what I'm looking for. Planning to buy / build a desktop this holiday. I will post into the format later. 10/5 stars given.
Just a side question, I plan to buy stuff for deals on boxing day/black friday. Have you had experiences or suggestions for that (since the planning is kinda last minute) You have two entire months to plan your purchases for the months of November and December. Holiday shopping is only last minute planning if you let it be. You're probably thinking "how do I plan if I don't know what's going to go on sale". Well if you put in some effort, you can get a very good idea of what's going to be on sale. And you still have the budget to plan anyways, eg. what is the most I am willing to spend on each part? Leaving this until last minute is just stupid because you end up overspending or worse yet, not having enough money and ending up with a shitty configuration. I mentioned this in the OP. HDDs and SSDs are going to go on sale, this is a given. Samsung 840 and Intel 330 are both almost guaranteed to go on sale because the Samsung 840 is approaching end of life (being replaced by the 840 EVO) and Intel 300 series has had mail in rebate sales for the last three years. There are several other items that are guaranteed to go on sale as well such as the Seasonic X (or maybe it'll be Platinum this year), Ultrasharps, ~$100+ cases such as the Define R4, etc. Many retailers have moved towards Black November and Boxing Month so you want to start start shopping early. Late October is a good idea. Check your retailers several times throughout the day and keep your eyes on Slick Deals (or Redflagdeals for Canadians) for deals. Many of the best deals don't happen on Black Friday or Boxing Day. Those two days typically just end up being a rehash of the previous deals with a few extra's thrown in. What's boxing day? What 'muricans call 25th 26th of December iirc. It seems it's the Brits with that "boxing day" for day after Christmas.
|
Boxing day is a public holiday that follows Christmas. It's our "Black Friday".
|
On August 31 2013 06:35 Gihi wrote:Show nested quote +On August 31 2013 01:02 hacklebeast wrote:On August 31 2013 00:44 mav451 wrote:On August 31 2013 00:02 hacklebeast wrote: few quick questions.
I have 2 monitors set up right now, and everything works fine most of the time. But when I play dota (or other major games) the primary screen looks great, but the second monitor slows to 1 fps. Not sure what equipment is relevant to include here, but I have a 6850 card, i3-3225 processor, and 7 GB of low level ram.
What component of my comp would i need to upgrade to fix this? If it is the GPU (what I would guess is the problem), how high would I have to go to fix it (7850, 7950, 7970)? If I did get one of those cards, would I be able to crossfire it with the 6850 I have now? Would that let me get 3 monitors running?
Thanks
edit: i found a chart on amd's website that seems to say that i can only cross fire a 6850 with a 6850 or a 6870 I don't understand - are you running Eyefinity (gaming resolution spans across two monitors)? no. The functional screen is playing the game, the other screen has a twitch stream or something. You could check the load on your CPU/GPU while the problem occurs. U can use GPU-Z and Coretemp for example. Also if you're using Chrome to watch the stream, try another one. Chrome uses quite some processor power when watching streams afaik. cpu load is on average the same. Changing the internet browser didn't change it.
|
On August 31 2013 07:07 Ropid wrote: @Gihi:
What's with that case!? Never knew Gigabyte made a case. You should go for something normal like Fractal Design Arc Midi R2.
Choose a different air cooler. A tower style cooler is a much better choice (Phanteks PH-TC14PE if you want Phanteks). That top-down cooler you are looking at is good at cooling the motherboard which you don't need. An expensive motherboard stays pretty cool at all times even when overclocking the CPU heavily.
If you want a case with flipped motherboard position like that case you have on your list, you might want to look at the Silverstone Temjin TJ08-E. It's a bit ridiculous but looks fun to me. As far as I know, its air cooling performance is excellent. You would need an mATX motherboard for that case. If you want to stay with Gigabyte, there's the "G1.Sniper M5" mATX board which should be similarly priced as the GA-Z87X-OC you have on your list. A large air cooler should still fit as mATX boards that are intended for overclocking make sure to leave a good amount of space between CPU socket and first graphics card slot. The PSU might not fit well with the Temjin TJ08-E as it is a strange case which you'll see if you look at pictures. It could be fine if your PSU is modular and you don't need an optical drive.
EDIT: Are you sure you need 16gb RAM? Even if you need 16gb, you should see what you can get as a 2x8gb kit. Idk, didn't put a lot of thought in the case. Clueless on what to pick kind of. I'm not really interested in a flipped case ^^ I will take your advice on the Phanteks, seeing as SkyR suggests it as well, it can't be a bad choice! I like to be able to have a lot of stuff open, I wouldn't say 16gb is a must, but it is a comfort for me.
On August 31 2013 07:24 skyR wrote: That case you has a lackluster interior, is also ugly imo, and doesn't have a windowed side panel which should be important to you if you care about the aesthetics of your internal components. A Fractal Design Define R4 White Windowed case is the obvious choice for a white case. Corsair and NZXT cases also come in white.
Z87X-OC is a board for overclocking on an open bench. Not a board you want to pay premium for when you're buying a case. The Z87X-D3H will be significantly less expensive and still be overkill for a novice overclocker.
You want a tower heatsink like the Noctua NH-U14S or PH-TC14PE because these perform better. Top-flow heatsinks should only be considered for small cases where there isn't enough clearance for a tower heatsink.
You want 2x8gb rather than 4x4gb. I agree. I like the how the Phantom series look, but is 9-13kg normal for a case? My previous desktop had an AOPEN A600A case, which weighs around 7 kg. I thank you for referring me, I am considering the Phantom 410 since it is only 9 kg, which is lightweight compared to the others I guess.
Will my build fit in the Phantom 410 if I choose the PH-TSC14PE as heatsink & the GA-Z87X-D3H as motherboard?
What's the reasoning behind me wanting 2x8? I was always under the idea that 4x4 was better for gaming. Could u briefly tell me how applications come to utilize memory? (For example do they use GPU memory first, or for a specific task? How does 4x4 or 2x8 benefit certain applications?) I'm just curious ^^
|
On August 31 2013 08:40 hacklebeast wrote:Show nested quote +On August 31 2013 06:35 Gihi wrote:On August 31 2013 01:02 hacklebeast wrote:On August 31 2013 00:44 mav451 wrote:On August 31 2013 00:02 hacklebeast wrote: few quick questions.
I have 2 monitors set up right now, and everything works fine most of the time. But when I play dota (or other major games) the primary screen looks great, but the second monitor slows to 1 fps. Not sure what equipment is relevant to include here, but I have a 6850 card, i3-3225 processor, and 7 GB of low level ram.
What component of my comp would i need to upgrade to fix this? If it is the GPU (what I would guess is the problem), how high would I have to go to fix it (7850, 7950, 7970)? If I did get one of those cards, would I be able to crossfire it with the 6850 I have now? Would that let me get 3 monitors running?
Thanks
edit: i found a chart on amd's website that seems to say that i can only cross fire a 6850 with a 6850 or a 6870 I don't understand - are you running Eyefinity (gaming resolution spans across two monitors)? no. The functional screen is playing the game, the other screen has a twitch stream or something. You could check the load on your CPU/GPU while the problem occurs. U can use GPU-Z and Coretemp for example. Also if you're using Chrome to watch the stream, try another one. Chrome uses quite some processor power when watching streams afaik. cpu load is on average the same. Changing the internet browser didn't change it. Windows 8? If so, can you try running the game in Windows 7 compatible mode?
|
On August 31 2013 07:13 mav451 wrote:Show nested quote +On August 31 2013 06:39 a176 wrote: wtf happened to RAM prices $60-80 for 8GB ? smh More like whoohoo - time to sell your older DDR3 kits hahah. Though if you can afford to wait, I'd wait until DDR4 adoption is in full swing to get even better pricing on old kits. But really $20 is not going to make or break a build.
I got my 8GB 13333 G.SKILL Kit for 23€ ~2years ago. Strange to see prices go up like that for no reason. Maybe PS4/XBoner used up all the production to make the RAM for their consoles. :x
|
On August 31 2013 08:56 Gihi wrote:+ Show Spoiler +On August 31 2013 07:07 Ropid wrote: @Gihi:
What's with that case!? Never knew Gigabyte made a case. You should go for something normal like Fractal Design Arc Midi R2.
Choose a different air cooler. A tower style cooler is a much better choice (Phanteks PH-TC14PE if you want Phanteks). That top-down cooler you are looking at is good at cooling the motherboard which you don't need. An expensive motherboard stays pretty cool at all times even when overclocking the CPU heavily.
If you want a case with flipped motherboard position like that case you have on your list, you might want to look at the Silverstone Temjin TJ08-E. It's a bit ridiculous but looks fun to me. As far as I know, its air cooling performance is excellent. You would need an mATX motherboard for that case. If you want to stay with Gigabyte, there's the "G1.Sniper M5" mATX board which should be similarly priced as the GA-Z87X-OC you have on your list. A large air cooler should still fit as mATX boards that are intended for overclocking make sure to leave a good amount of space between CPU socket and first graphics card slot. The PSU might not fit well with the Temjin TJ08-E as it is a strange case which you'll see if you look at pictures. It could be fine if your PSU is modular and you don't need an optical drive.
EDIT: Are you sure you need 16gb RAM? Even if you need 16gb, you should see what you can get as a 2x8gb kit. Idk, didn't put a lot of thought in the case. Clueless on what to pick kind of. I'm not really interested in a flipped case ^^ I will take your advice on the Phanteks, seeing as SkyR suggests it as well, it can't be a bad choice! I like to be able to have a lot of stuff open, I wouldn't say 16gb is a must, but it is a comfort for me. On August 31 2013 07:24 skyR wrote: That case you has a lackluster interior, is also ugly imo, and doesn't have a windowed side panel which should be important to you if you care about the aesthetics of your internal components. A Fractal Design Define R4 White Windowed case is the obvious choice for a white case. Corsair and NZXT cases also come in white.
Z87X-OC is a board for overclocking on an open bench. Not a board you want to pay premium for when you're buying a case. The Z87X-D3H will be significantly less expensive and still be overkill for a novice overclocker.
You want a tower heatsink like the Noctua NH-U14S or PH-TC14PE because these perform better. Top-flow heatsinks should only be considered for small cases where there isn't enough clearance for a tower heatsink.
You want 2x8gb rather than 4x4gb. I agree. I like the how the Phantom series look, but is 9-13kg normal for a case? My previous desktop had an AOPEN A600A case, which weighs around 7 kg. I thank you for referring me, I am considering the Phantom 410 since it is only 9 kg, which is lightweight compared to the others I guess. Will my build fit in the Phantom 410 if I choose the PH-TSC14PE as heatsink & the GA-Z87X-D3H as motherboard? What's the reasoning behind me wanting 2x8? I was always under the idea that 4x4 was better for gaming. Could u briefly tell me how applications come to utilize memory? (For example do they use GPU memory first, or for a specific task? How does 4x4 or 2x8 benefit certain applications?) I'm just curious ^^
Yes, that's the typical weight for a steel case. Yes, the heatsink and motherboard will fit in the 410.
The reasoning behind 2x8GB is that it puts less stress on the memory controller and gives room to expand to 32GB. Though there's no reason to have 16GB for gaming since the majority of games can't make use of more than 2GB.
|
On August 31 2013 10:39 skyR wrote: Yes, that's the typical weight for a steel case. Yes, the heatsink and motherboard will fit in the 410.
The reasoning behind 2x8GB is that it puts less stress on the memory controller and gives room to expand to 32GB. Though there's no reason to have 16GB for gaming since the majority of games can't make use of more than 2GB. Cool, thanks for the advice and for making this thread!
So 2x8GB will be more durable for my CPU. Probably a good thing since I think I'll void the warranty eventually.
|
On August 31 2013 07:13 mav451 wrote:Show nested quote +On August 31 2013 06:39 a176 wrote: wtf happened to RAM prices $60-80 for 8GB ? smh More like whoohoo - time to sell your older DDR3 kits hahah. Though if you can afford to wait, I'd wait until DDR4 adoption is in full swing to get even better pricing on old kits. But really $20 is not going to make or break a build.
i was thinking about adding some ram to an existing system to help with some virtualization. like others said i got my 8gb for next to nothing, now to shell out 80 bucks ... ah, ill just stick to low ram usage for the vms
|
So I underclocked my CPU from 3.46Ghz (266x13) to 3.33Ghz (333x10) and I went from an average of 53FPS to 59.5FPS max settings in Dirt 3. It did however overclock my RAM and FSB from 1067 to 1333.
|
On August 31 2013 13:06 iTzSnypah wrote: So I underclocked my CPU from 3.46Ghz (266x13) to 3.33Ghz (333x10) and I went from an average of 53FPS to 59.5FPS max settings in Dirt 3. It did however overclock my RAM and FSB from 1067 to 1333.
Well you're on a pre-IMC Intel chip (Core2), so it makes sense you saw real gains OCing the FSB :p Not sure on your chip FSB limits though, but I imagine it won't clock nearly as high as the Wolfdales. But you got an unlocked multi anyway. May take a fair amount of Vcore/VTT/NBv to hit higher FSBs (e.g. 400+)...any reason you're only just trying this now haha.
Pretty much blast from the P35 past. Is the info in your profile up-to-date?
|
On August 31 2013 14:59 mav451 wrote:Show nested quote +On August 31 2013 13:06 iTzSnypah wrote: So I underclocked my CPU from 3.46Ghz (266x13) to 3.33Ghz (333x10) and I went from an average of 53FPS to 59.5FPS max settings in Dirt 3. It did however overclock my RAM and FSB from 1067 to 1333. Well you're on a pre-IMC Intel chip (Core2), so it makes sense you saw real gains OCing the FSB :p Not sure on your chip FSB limits though, but I imagine it won't clock nearly as high as the Wolfdales. But you got an unlocked multi anyway. May take a fair amount of Vcore/VTT/NBv to hit higher FSBs (e.g. 400+)...any reason you're only just trying this now haha. Pretty much blast from the P35 past. Is the info in your profile up-to-date? It's slightly outdated. I haven't updated the Pic to include the new Case and I recently got a 7850 1GB (Stable at 1200/1400/1.225v) as my 9800 GTX died.
The reason I'm trying this now is because my motherboard is wore out and I have an insane amount of Vdroop (I have it set currently at 1.4625v in BIOS and during P95 or IBT CPU-Z reports an average of 1.336v with dips under 1.3v), so I got a half decent OC a long time ago and I just haven't changed it.
|
Is there anywhere I can check if the computer I plan to put together from scratch has any incompatibilities?
This is my current plan. Will it all fit together properly? + Show Spoiler +Motherboard - MSI Z87-G45 Gaming CPU - I5 4560K GPU - MSI GTX 760 4GB Twin Frozr RAM - Corsair Vengeance 1600MHz (4GB x 2pcs) CL9 Low Profile Storage - Sandisk Ultra Plus 256GB SSD Internal DVD-RW - Asus 24x DVD-RW Sata PSU - Seasonic X Series 750W Casing - Corsair 540 Airflow case OS - Windows 8 64 Bit
Keyboard - CM Storm Quickfire Pro Mouse - CM Spawn Monitor - 2 x Dell 23" 2312HM Headset - Cooler Master Ceres 400 Mousepad - Steelseries qck
Reason for the higher powered PSU = Plan to SLI and overclock in the future Reason for 4GB GPU = Plan to SLI and probably going to try for triple monitor displays, so the extra vram could be useful
|
|
|
|