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On November 23 2017 16:37 FFW_Rude wrote:Show nested quote +On November 23 2017 14:13 FiWiFaKi wrote:On November 22 2017 22:49 FFW_Rude wrote:On November 22 2017 22:44 Deleuze wrote:On November 22 2017 22:35 FFW_Rude wrote:Hello, I wanted to add some RAM in one of my computer but the RAM i have inside isn't sold anymore. It was some DDR3 HyperX Predator 2666Mhz. Now i want to add another 8Gb but... What to choose ? What i have : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B008YAI6IQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1(it's in French) Also i want to change an HD6970 but i don't know what to get... Radeon seems far behind so... 1050ti 4gb ? Do you know what motherboard you have? Yes of course, it's an Asus Z-97K. Why ? RAM is a very black and white thing. A 64 bit sending a signal at a specific clock, with a few tens of timings that specify the time between sending the information and being able to access it again. The bad thing is your RAM has rather obscure speeds, voltages (yours is 1.65V), and timings... Not some generic 1333-1866Mhz RAM. If you found a RAM with the same voltage, frequency, CAS timings, then it'll most likely work (heck, pretty much all DDR3 RAM was created by two different companies and rebranded - Samsung and SK Hynix), so I'd buy it from a local place, 95% chance it works. And upon further inspection, according to here: https://www.hyperxgaming.com/us/memory/predator-ddr3?Speed=2666MHz&Total (Kit) Capacity=8GB&Voltage=1.65V&Channel Config=DualIt says that the 2666MHz RAM is supported in only 8GB capacity, so even if you found it, it probably wont work. The issue you run into is as you increase RAM capacity your speeds decrease, because the additional transistors are further away from the CPU, and therefore the latency increases (quantum mechanic limitations to real signal propagation), and since your didn't change the CAS timings, the RAM just becomes unstable. With this RAM, I think best case scenario you'll have to down clock it to 1866Mhz and lower the voltage to 1.5V, and manually adjust every primary and secondary timing until it matches your new stick. But first you should check if all of these setting are available to you in your BIOS. If they are, try changing your RAM to those settings and see if you achieve stability. If you're stable, then proceed with buying a new stick. Hopefully the above paragraph also explained why we need to know the motherboard, because that tells us about your BIOS, and allows us to look what settings can be modified. A lot of basic mobos don't let you play with timings or voltages. edit: As for what Graphics card to get... My recommendation would be to spend a little bit more and get a GTX1060 (I'd recommend going for the 6GB, but the 3GB model is alright if you plan to stick with 1080p gaming for the foreseeable future, depends in the price difference due to regional pricing if you're purchasing in France). It's a big step up in a generation that made great progress, it'll last you a while. AMD prices are still inflated due to cryptocurrency mining, if they were both being sold at MSRP, their performance/dollar is about the same, but the AMD cards use significantly more power (so also more heat and more noise to cool it). Hello. Thank you for your answer. Never buying OC RAM again then... it's for a gift so... i can't even fiddle the computer or she'll just find out... As for the GTX 1060.. Well "a little more" as you say is 130€ turning into 350€ (which is more than double). If i buy this this will be her only gift for Christmas so i don't know... She mainly plays WoW and 7DTD. (well she plays witcher 3 too from time to time which is where the 6970 starts caughing). Oh and. Proc is 4690K (stock. I know i know but for some reason it was cheaper than the normal). Would 1060ti Bottleneck hard ? Or is that proc enough ?
When I look on newegg.com (US website), a GTX 1060 is $200, versus $150 for a GTX 1050ti, if it's that significant of a price difference in France, then of course that is a lot. Looking at quick benchmark statistics, the 1050ti is 65% faster than a 6970, and a GTX 1060 is 150% faster.
It's dependent on the game, but for 90% of games will be more GPU limited with a GTX 1060 and 4690k. I don't know about those games specifically (except Witcher III, that's a pretty CPU demanding game relative to GPU, but it is heavy on both). You can check how any game runs by searching "x game benchmarks" into google. My gut says WoW and 7DTD shouldn't be a problem like you mentioned (going to work can't check now).
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Thanks! I'll check it out today, the idea makes sense. Ugh, I hope the issue is resolved soon because I like to keep things simple, I'd probably rather just watch 720p30fps in the meantime.
Also, what makes you think it's traffic from my ISP to the twitch servers?
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On November 23 2017 22:16 FiWiFaKi wrote:Show nested quote +On November 23 2017 16:37 FFW_Rude wrote:On November 23 2017 14:13 FiWiFaKi wrote:On November 22 2017 22:49 FFW_Rude wrote:On November 22 2017 22:44 Deleuze wrote:On November 22 2017 22:35 FFW_Rude wrote:Hello, I wanted to add some RAM in one of my computer but the RAM i have inside isn't sold anymore. It was some DDR3 HyperX Predator 2666Mhz. Now i want to add another 8Gb but... What to choose ? What i have : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B008YAI6IQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1(it's in French) Also i want to change an HD6970 but i don't know what to get... Radeon seems far behind so... 1050ti 4gb ? Do you know what motherboard you have? Yes of course, it's an Asus Z-97K. Why ? RAM is a very black and white thing. A 64 bit sending a signal at a specific clock, with a few tens of timings that specify the time between sending the information and being able to access it again. The bad thing is your RAM has rather obscure speeds, voltages (yours is 1.65V), and timings... Not some generic 1333-1866Mhz RAM. If you found a RAM with the same voltage, frequency, CAS timings, then it'll most likely work (heck, pretty much all DDR3 RAM was created by two different companies and rebranded - Samsung and SK Hynix), so I'd buy it from a local place, 95% chance it works. And upon further inspection, according to here: https://www.hyperxgaming.com/us/memory/predator-ddr3?Speed=2666MHz&Total (Kit) Capacity=8GB&Voltage=1.65V&Channel Config=DualIt says that the 2666MHz RAM is supported in only 8GB capacity, so even if you found it, it probably wont work. The issue you run into is as you increase RAM capacity your speeds decrease, because the additional transistors are further away from the CPU, and therefore the latency increases (quantum mechanic limitations to real signal propagation), and since your didn't change the CAS timings, the RAM just becomes unstable. With this RAM, I think best case scenario you'll have to down clock it to 1866Mhz and lower the voltage to 1.5V, and manually adjust every primary and secondary timing until it matches your new stick. But first you should check if all of these setting are available to you in your BIOS. If they are, try changing your RAM to those settings and see if you achieve stability. If you're stable, then proceed with buying a new stick. Hopefully the above paragraph also explained why we need to know the motherboard, because that tells us about your BIOS, and allows us to look what settings can be modified. A lot of basic mobos don't let you play with timings or voltages. edit: As for what Graphics card to get... My recommendation would be to spend a little bit more and get a GTX1060 (I'd recommend going for the 6GB, but the 3GB model is alright if you plan to stick with 1080p gaming for the foreseeable future, depends in the price difference due to regional pricing if you're purchasing in France). It's a big step up in a generation that made great progress, it'll last you a while. AMD prices are still inflated due to cryptocurrency mining, if they were both being sold at MSRP, their performance/dollar is about the same, but the AMD cards use significantly more power (so also more heat and more noise to cool it). Hello. Thank you for your answer. Never buying OC RAM again then... it's for a gift so... i can't even fiddle the computer or she'll just find out... As for the GTX 1060.. Well "a little more" as you say is 130€ turning into 350€ (which is more than double). If i buy this this will be her only gift for Christmas so i don't know... She mainly plays WoW and 7DTD. (well she plays witcher 3 too from time to time which is where the 6970 starts caughing). Oh and. Proc is 4690K (stock. I know i know but for some reason it was cheaper than the normal). Would 1060ti Bottleneck hard ? Or is that proc enough ? When I look on newegg.com (US website), a GTX 1060 is $200, versus $150 for a GTX 1050ti, if it's that significant of a price difference in France, then of course that is a lot. Looking at quick benchmark statistics, the 1050ti is 65% faster than a 6970, and a GTX 1060 is 150% faster. It's dependent on the game, but for 90% of games will be more GPU limited with a GTX 1060 and 4690k. I don't know about those games specifically (except Witcher III, that's a pretty CPU demanding game relative to GPU, but it is heavy on both). You can check how any game runs by searching "x game benchmarks" into google. My gut says WoW and 7DTD shouldn't be a problem like you mentioned (going to work can't check now).
Thank you for your information. Yes what i found where 130-150€ and 350-370€. I always have trouble with bench because everytime i look at it, i don't see why i should change my R9 290X since i can't find a middle card as good as this so i thought bench where not really viable.
Thanks for the information. That means my R9 is still defending herself 
As for the Ti ... If i can find a ti 1060 at 200€ i'll definitly take it. Will be my first non AMD GPU in years thanks again.
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On November 23 2017 13:50 FiWiFaKi wrote:
At first I thought maybe my wifi drivers aren't working properly, or my network adapter needs to be switched, but when I looked into it, no it's not. The transfer rate vs time graph is very characteristic for live streams, with peaks and troughs every 3 seconds or, as it's a constant feed of say 6Mbps, where it'll send me the chunks in like 3 seconds increments, and then it takes my computer say 0.5 seconds to download the packets, and then the download speed slows down again.
This sounds like normal behavior. Twitch sends chunks of video on intervals; it's not a continuous steady stream. As long as your downloaded chunks stay ahead of the rate you're watching you'll be fine, but if it doesn't then you get the telltale buffering. For the VODs I checked the chunks are about 4.5MB each, but live may be different.
Using something like Livestreamer/Streamlink and then increasing the amount of buffer might help you. You'll end up with a longer delay between the stream and chat than the typical user (probably a few seconds), but it may help smooth out playback.
Twitch video is CDN'd so that if one server is struggling then you'll be served from another (load balancing). There used to be an option that most streamers used that greatly reduced chat delay at the expense of some users experienced increased buffering. I couldn't find it when I looked so I'm not sure if it still exists.
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On November 24 2017 22:12 Craton wrote:Show nested quote +On November 23 2017 13:50 FiWiFaKi wrote:
At first I thought maybe my wifi drivers aren't working properly, or my network adapter needs to be switched, but when I looked into it, no it's not. The transfer rate vs time graph is very characteristic for live streams, with peaks and troughs every 3 seconds or, as it's a constant feed of say 6Mbps, where it'll send me the chunks in like 3 seconds increments, and then it takes my computer say 0.5 seconds to download the packets, and then the download speed slows down again. This sounds like normal behavior. Twitch sends chunks of video on intervals; it's not a continuous steady stream. As long as your downloaded chunks stay ahead of the rate you're watching you'll be fine, but if it doesn't then you get the telltale buffering. For the VODs I checked the chunks are about 4.5MB each, but live may be different. Using something like Livestreamer/Streamlink and then increasing the amount of buffer might help you. You'll end up with a longer delay between the stream and chat than the typical user (probably a few seconds), but it may help smooth out playback. Twitch video is CDN'd so that if one server is struggling then you'll be served from another (load balancing). There used to be an option that most streamers used that greatly reduced chat delay at the expense of some users experienced increased buffering. I couldn't find it when I looked so I'm not sure if it still exists.
That's why I said it's characteristic behavior.
I know in OBS there is a feature that you mention, reduces the delay of the the video feed, so if you ask a question on your stream for example, you can see people answer right away. Yeah, I'll take a look at streamlink, I've been watching streams at 720p for now (first world problems).
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Can anyone recommend a guide on moving Windows 10 from an HD to an ssd?
Is it recommended to use free mitgration software?
My data is on the old HD. How should I remove the old W10 from thst drive?
Thanks!😀
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On November 25 2017 06:23 Deleuze wrote:
Can anyone recommend a guide on moving Windows 10 from an HD to an ssd?
Is it recommended to use free mitgration software?
My data is on the old HD. How should I remove the old W10 from thst drive?
Thanks!😀
You should be able to create a Windows 10 installation media on a flash drive (you'll need a 4-8GB one). Make sure your SSD is plugged in, when you're on the BIOS screen when turning on your computer, go to boot manager or something like that, select the USB drive (if it isn't selected automatically). Then just proceed and install windows.
Windows is tied to microsoft accounts now, so you'll just need to log in with the same information, might have to enter your W10 key, and that's it. Windows does a hardware check, not exactly sure at all the components it checks, but it does the motherboard for sure, and 50% sure it checks the CPU too. If it checks out that it's the same computer (ie not CPU or mobo change), and just a new hard drive, there is no issue.
I did this myself when reinstalling windows 10 when I needed to get my SSD replaced.
Then you'll have Windows on your primary drive, and have all the files you had before on your secondary HDD. You'll need to reinstall your programs however.
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On November 25 2017 06:23 Deleuze wrote:
Can anyone recommend a guide on moving Windows 10 from an HD to an ssd?
Is it recommended to use free mitgration software?
My data is on the old HD. How should I remove the old W10 from thst drive?
Thanks!😀
Can probably make an image of it and then deploy it to the new drive. Haven't tried it personally, but in theory it'd move all files over to the new one and everything would keep working. Might also need to set the boot drive in the BIOS and/or update the MBRs, though.
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United Kingdom20326 Posts
On November 23 2017 22:16 FiWiFaKi wrote:Show nested quote +On November 23 2017 16:37 FFW_Rude wrote:On November 23 2017 14:13 FiWiFaKi wrote:On November 22 2017 22:49 FFW_Rude wrote:On November 22 2017 22:44 Deleuze wrote:On November 22 2017 22:35 FFW_Rude wrote:Hello, I wanted to add some RAM in one of my computer but the RAM i have inside isn't sold anymore. It was some DDR3 HyperX Predator 2666Mhz. Now i want to add another 8Gb but... What to choose ? What i have : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B008YAI6IQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1(it's in French) Also i want to change an HD6970 but i don't know what to get... Radeon seems far behind so... 1050ti 4gb ? Do you know what motherboard you have? Yes of course, it's an Asus Z-97K. Why ? RAM is a very black and white thing. A 64 bit sending a signal at a specific clock, with a few tens of timings that specify the time between sending the information and being able to access it again. The bad thing is your RAM has rather obscure speeds, voltages (yours is 1.65V), and timings... Not some generic 1333-1866Mhz RAM. If you found a RAM with the same voltage, frequency, CAS timings, then it'll most likely work (heck, pretty much all DDR3 RAM was created by two different companies and rebranded - Samsung and SK Hynix), so I'd buy it from a local place, 95% chance it works. And upon further inspection, according to here: https://www.hyperxgaming.com/us/memory/predator-ddr3?Speed=2666MHz&Total (Kit) Capacity=8GB&Voltage=1.65V&Channel Config=DualIt says that the 2666MHz RAM is supported in only 8GB capacity, so even if you found it, it probably wont work. The issue you run into is as you increase RAM capacity your speeds decrease, because the additional transistors are further away from the CPU, and therefore the latency increases (quantum mechanic limitations to real signal propagation), and since your didn't change the CAS timings, the RAM just becomes unstable. With this RAM, I think best case scenario you'll have to down clock it to 1866Mhz and lower the voltage to 1.5V, and manually adjust every primary and secondary timing until it matches your new stick. But first you should check if all of these setting are available to you in your BIOS. If they are, try changing your RAM to those settings and see if you achieve stability. If you're stable, then proceed with buying a new stick. Hopefully the above paragraph also explained why we need to know the motherboard, because that tells us about your BIOS, and allows us to look what settings can be modified. A lot of basic mobos don't let you play with timings or voltages. edit: As for what Graphics card to get... My recommendation would be to spend a little bit more and get a GTX1060 (I'd recommend going for the 6GB, but the 3GB model is alright if you plan to stick with 1080p gaming for the foreseeable future, depends in the price difference due to regional pricing if you're purchasing in France). It's a big step up in a generation that made great progress, it'll last you a while. AMD prices are still inflated due to cryptocurrency mining, if they were both being sold at MSRP, their performance/dollar is about the same, but the AMD cards use significantly more power (so also more heat and more noise to cool it). Hello. Thank you for your answer. Never buying OC RAM again then... it's for a gift so... i can't even fiddle the computer or she'll just find out... As for the GTX 1060.. Well "a little more" as you say is 130€ turning into 350€ (which is more than double). If i buy this this will be her only gift for Christmas so i don't know... She mainly plays WoW and 7DTD. (well she plays witcher 3 too from time to time which is where the 6970 starts caughing). Oh and. Proc is 4690K (stock. I know i know but for some reason it was cheaper than the normal). Would 1060ti Bottleneck hard ? Or is that proc enough ? When I look on newegg.com (US website), a GTX 1060 is $200, versus $150 for a GTX 1050ti, if it's that significant of a price difference in France, then of course that is a lot. Looking at quick benchmark statistics, the 1050ti is 65% faster than a 6970, and a GTX 1060 is 150% faster. It's dependent on the game, but for 90% of games will be more GPU limited with a GTX 1060 and 4690k. I don't know about those games specifically (except Witcher III, that's a pretty CPU demanding game relative to GPU, but it is heavy on both). You can check how any game runs by searching "x game benchmarks" into google. My gut says WoW and 7DTD shouldn't be a problem like you mentioned (going to work can't check now).
WoW is heavily CPU limited in general but especially at the times of worst performance
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On November 26 2017 02:24 Cyro wrote:Show nested quote +On November 23 2017 22:16 FiWiFaKi wrote:On November 23 2017 16:37 FFW_Rude wrote:On November 23 2017 14:13 FiWiFaKi wrote:On November 22 2017 22:49 FFW_Rude wrote:On November 22 2017 22:44 Deleuze wrote:On November 22 2017 22:35 FFW_Rude wrote:Hello, I wanted to add some RAM in one of my computer but the RAM i have inside isn't sold anymore. It was some DDR3 HyperX Predator 2666Mhz. Now i want to add another 8Gb but... What to choose ? What i have : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B008YAI6IQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1(it's in French) Also i want to change an HD6970 but i don't know what to get... Radeon seems far behind so... 1050ti 4gb ? Do you know what motherboard you have? Yes of course, it's an Asus Z-97K. Why ? RAM is a very black and white thing. A 64 bit sending a signal at a specific clock, with a few tens of timings that specify the time between sending the information and being able to access it again. The bad thing is your RAM has rather obscure speeds, voltages (yours is 1.65V), and timings... Not some generic 1333-1866Mhz RAM. If you found a RAM with the same voltage, frequency, CAS timings, then it'll most likely work (heck, pretty much all DDR3 RAM was created by two different companies and rebranded - Samsung and SK Hynix), so I'd buy it from a local place, 95% chance it works. And upon further inspection, according to here: https://www.hyperxgaming.com/us/memory/predator-ddr3?Speed=2666MHz&Total (Kit) Capacity=8GB&Voltage=1.65V&Channel Config=DualIt says that the 2666MHz RAM is supported in only 8GB capacity, so even if you found it, it probably wont work. The issue you run into is as you increase RAM capacity your speeds decrease, because the additional transistors are further away from the CPU, and therefore the latency increases (quantum mechanic limitations to real signal propagation), and since your didn't change the CAS timings, the RAM just becomes unstable. With this RAM, I think best case scenario you'll have to down clock it to 1866Mhz and lower the voltage to 1.5V, and manually adjust every primary and secondary timing until it matches your new stick. But first you should check if all of these setting are available to you in your BIOS. If they are, try changing your RAM to those settings and see if you achieve stability. If you're stable, then proceed with buying a new stick. Hopefully the above paragraph also explained why we need to know the motherboard, because that tells us about your BIOS, and allows us to look what settings can be modified. A lot of basic mobos don't let you play with timings or voltages. edit: As for what Graphics card to get... My recommendation would be to spend a little bit more and get a GTX1060 (I'd recommend going for the 6GB, but the 3GB model is alright if you plan to stick with 1080p gaming for the foreseeable future, depends in the price difference due to regional pricing if you're purchasing in France). It's a big step up in a generation that made great progress, it'll last you a while. AMD prices are still inflated due to cryptocurrency mining, if they were both being sold at MSRP, their performance/dollar is about the same, but the AMD cards use significantly more power (so also more heat and more noise to cool it). Hello. Thank you for your answer. Never buying OC RAM again then... it's for a gift so... i can't even fiddle the computer or she'll just find out... As for the GTX 1060.. Well "a little more" as you say is 130€ turning into 350€ (which is more than double). If i buy this this will be her only gift for Christmas so i don't know... She mainly plays WoW and 7DTD. (well she plays witcher 3 too from time to time which is where the 6970 starts caughing). Oh and. Proc is 4690K (stock. I know i know but for some reason it was cheaper than the normal). Would 1060ti Bottleneck hard ? Or is that proc enough ? When I look on newegg.com (US website), a GTX 1060 is $200, versus $150 for a GTX 1050ti, if it's that significant of a price difference in France, then of course that is a lot. Looking at quick benchmark statistics, the 1050ti is 65% faster than a 6970, and a GTX 1060 is 150% faster. It's dependent on the game, but for 90% of games will be more GPU limited with a GTX 1060 and 4690k. I don't know about those games specifically (except Witcher III, that's a pretty CPU demanding game relative to GPU, but it is heavy on both). You can check how any game runs by searching "x game benchmarks" into google. My gut says WoW and 7DTD shouldn't be a problem like you mentioned (going to work can't check now). WoW is heavily CPU limited in general but especially at the times of worst performance
But limited by single or multicore performance? Since stuff like SC2 is single core limited, so there's not much you can do besides get a good cooler and faster RAM, OC, and get an extra 15% max.
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United Kingdom20326 Posts
On November 26 2017 07:55 FiWiFaKi wrote:Show nested quote +On November 26 2017 02:24 Cyro wrote:On November 23 2017 22:16 FiWiFaKi wrote:On November 23 2017 16:37 FFW_Rude wrote:On November 23 2017 14:13 FiWiFaKi wrote:On November 22 2017 22:49 FFW_Rude wrote:On November 22 2017 22:44 Deleuze wrote:On November 22 2017 22:35 FFW_Rude wrote:Hello, I wanted to add some RAM in one of my computer but the RAM i have inside isn't sold anymore. It was some DDR3 HyperX Predator 2666Mhz. Now i want to add another 8Gb but... What to choose ? What i have : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B008YAI6IQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1(it's in French) Also i want to change an HD6970 but i don't know what to get... Radeon seems far behind so... 1050ti 4gb ? Do you know what motherboard you have? Yes of course, it's an Asus Z-97K. Why ? RAM is a very black and white thing. A 64 bit sending a signal at a specific clock, with a few tens of timings that specify the time between sending the information and being able to access it again. The bad thing is your RAM has rather obscure speeds, voltages (yours is 1.65V), and timings... Not some generic 1333-1866Mhz RAM. If you found a RAM with the same voltage, frequency, CAS timings, then it'll most likely work (heck, pretty much all DDR3 RAM was created by two different companies and rebranded - Samsung and SK Hynix), so I'd buy it from a local place, 95% chance it works. And upon further inspection, according to here: https://www.hyperxgaming.com/us/memory/predator-ddr3?Speed=2666MHz&Total (Kit) Capacity=8GB&Voltage=1.65V&Channel Config=DualIt says that the 2666MHz RAM is supported in only 8GB capacity, so even if you found it, it probably wont work. The issue you run into is as you increase RAM capacity your speeds decrease, because the additional transistors are further away from the CPU, and therefore the latency increases (quantum mechanic limitations to real signal propagation), and since your didn't change the CAS timings, the RAM just becomes unstable. With this RAM, I think best case scenario you'll have to down clock it to 1866Mhz and lower the voltage to 1.5V, and manually adjust every primary and secondary timing until it matches your new stick. But first you should check if all of these setting are available to you in your BIOS. If they are, try changing your RAM to those settings and see if you achieve stability. If you're stable, then proceed with buying a new stick. Hopefully the above paragraph also explained why we need to know the motherboard, because that tells us about your BIOS, and allows us to look what settings can be modified. A lot of basic mobos don't let you play with timings or voltages. edit: As for what Graphics card to get... My recommendation would be to spend a little bit more and get a GTX1060 (I'd recommend going for the 6GB, but the 3GB model is alright if you plan to stick with 1080p gaming for the foreseeable future, depends in the price difference due to regional pricing if you're purchasing in France). It's a big step up in a generation that made great progress, it'll last you a while. AMD prices are still inflated due to cryptocurrency mining, if they were both being sold at MSRP, their performance/dollar is about the same, but the AMD cards use significantly more power (so also more heat and more noise to cool it). Hello. Thank you for your answer. Never buying OC RAM again then... it's for a gift so... i can't even fiddle the computer or she'll just find out... As for the GTX 1060.. Well "a little more" as you say is 130€ turning into 350€ (which is more than double). If i buy this this will be her only gift for Christmas so i don't know... She mainly plays WoW and 7DTD. (well she plays witcher 3 too from time to time which is where the 6970 starts caughing). Oh and. Proc is 4690K (stock. I know i know but for some reason it was cheaper than the normal). Would 1060ti Bottleneck hard ? Or is that proc enough ? When I look on newegg.com (US website), a GTX 1060 is $200, versus $150 for a GTX 1050ti, if it's that significant of a price difference in France, then of course that is a lot. Looking at quick benchmark statistics, the 1050ti is 65% faster than a 6970, and a GTX 1060 is 150% faster. It's dependent on the game, but for 90% of games will be more GPU limited with a GTX 1060 and 4690k. I don't know about those games specifically (except Witcher III, that's a pretty CPU demanding game relative to GPU, but it is heavy on both). You can check how any game runs by searching "x game benchmarks" into google. My gut says WoW and 7DTD shouldn't be a problem like you mentioned (going to work can't check now). WoW is heavily CPU limited in general but especially at the times of worst performance But limited by single or multicore performance? Since stuff like SC2 is single core limited, so there's not much you can do besides get a good cooler and faster RAM, OC, and get an extra 15% max.
Good benefits going to 3-4 cores but limited or none beyond 4 last i checked
the architecture, clock speed & ram performance make a big difference (+19% fps going from 2400c16 to 3200c16 with no other changes)
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With my computer being the following:
i5 6600 @ 3.30 GHz
Geforce GTX 960
8 GB RAM (can check exact specifics if needed)
approximately what graphics setting in SC2 could I play and have 60+ fps in 2v2 big fights? Right now I drop to ~30 FPS in a huge end game 2v2 fight. Is that completely unavoidable unless I play on all lowest?
I tried lowering everythign in graphics options related to CPU, with some improvement (in games for the first while I am around 100-200 FPS).
I figured since SC2 is very CPU dependant and not as much GPU anything related to GPU can stay pretty high but now I'm not so sure.
Any thoughts? Can give more info if needed.
These are my current settings:
![[image loading]](https://i.imgur.com/545zIYw.jpg)
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United Kingdom20326 Posts
On December 11 2017 00:32 SoleSteeler wrote:With my computer being the following: i5 6600 @ 3.30 GHz Geforce GTX 960 8 GB RAM (can check exact specifics if needed) approximately what graphics setting in SC2 could I play and have 60+ fps in 2v2 big fights? Right now I drop to ~30 FPS in a huge end game 2v2 fight. Is that completely unavoidable unless I play on all lowest? I tried lowering everythign in graphics options related to CPU, with some improvement (in games for the first while I am around 100-200 FPS). I figured since SC2 is very CPU dependant and not as much GPU anything related to GPU can stay pretty high but now I'm not so sure. Any thoughts? Can give more info if needed. These are my current settings:
Most of them add graphics load which is easy to run, the slowdown comes from the CPU stuff which is affected mainly by Physics (i keep off), effects (medium, as low makes some stuff hard to see and isn't that much better for performance) and a little by some stuff like reflections.
Faster CPU (mostly overclocked stuff) and RAM speeds improve performance; somebody w/ a 5ghz overclock and fast RAM could plausibly feel that the game is running ~30-40% faster than yours (assuming you have stock cpu and 2133 RAM) but there is a ceiling on game performance that dips pretty low at times even on the best hardware.
Also worth a note that sc2 performance is weird - the frametime distribution is very uneven and changes depending on the amount of performance you have. That means that framerate is not a good measure of performance - increasing your CPU performance by 25% can increase the displayed FPS by 50% but in reality it only feels 25% better because the core game code (and all of the slowest frames that comes with it running 22 times per second) is only sped up by 1.25x. There are also major game performance issues once you drop down to about 30fps because the game simulation can't be done in time so it must slow down to below real time, sometimes in a very stuttery/awkward way.
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So it's been 11 and a half years since I built my main rig. I've ordered and received almost all the parts already, except one part I was planning to use that doesn't seem to exist, or at least not a "modern" version. I've been trying to find a 5.25" bay (1, 2 or 3 bay) fan controller that supports actual 4-pin PWM and not the older 3-pin which modulates the voltage, while not costing over $100.
I've only seen the Aquaero 6 which is way overboard, and this Zalman but it only has one 4-pin channel.
I know motherboards have plenty of headers and the extinction of optical drives, and thus 5.25" bays means there is a far smaller market for these items. It's just strange that I'm seeing the same products, or slightly newer revisions, that I did back in 2006.
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RAM prices are still really high, right? Is there any credible speculation on when prices are expected to eventually die back down?
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Anyone have any experience using monitor Calibration tools? My mom is looking to get a spyder5 and is trying to decide between the different versions. Is there a different product that is just as good and/or easier to use? She’s likely going to get the pro version due to it supposedly having more software options without adding the extra features of the elite version
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Since the last windows update, an app "#205" prevents my PC from shutting down. This is not a major problem, but it is pretty annoying to always have to click "force shutdown".
A quick google told me that this might have something to do with stuff that didn't install correctly, or that is not compatible with the new version of windows, but no way to actually fix that.
Does anyone have an idea how to get rid of "#205"?
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On December 16 2017 00:40 KOFgokuon wrote:
Anyone have any experience using monitor Calibration tools? My mom is looking to get a spyder5 and is trying to decide between the different versions. Is there a different product that is just as good and/or easier to use? She’s likely going to get the pro version due to it supposedly having more software options without adding the extra features of the elite version
I bought my colorimeter a long time ago. At that time, the same device was sold in different packages with very different pricing. Literally the only difference was the software. The device itself was the exact same hardware. If the situation is still the same, perhaps think about if you actually need the software because you might be able to save a good bit of money.
I actually ended up not using any of the software after switching to a newer Windows version. There's an open source package named "DisplayCAL" that's pretty great and has good documentation.
The last time I looked at colorimeters, I remember there was also one device that was sold by different brands, not just in different packages by one brand, so that was another thing where you could have saved money at that time.
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France12912 Posts
Does anyone know an approximate time for intel 9th gen laptop CPUs? (I mean laptopts with the CPUs in it)
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While my USB Headphone is doing fine my speakers on my notebook feels like they have a bee inside when gets louder.
Anyone know how to fix this buzzing?
It's a W7 Ultimate 64bit Vaio model sve151d11x.
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EPT
