|
2) Saving important data is always a good idea. Not saving important data is always dangerous. Especially on older machines.
That being said, if the problem is the CPU getting too hot, that shouldn't really influence the data saved on your hard drive. The most likely thing that could happen is your CPU breaking.
1) There are ways of dealing with this. If your CPU gets that hot, there is probably something wrong with the cooling.
Step one: Open the PC case, and clean all of the vents from dust. There is probably shitloads on there. (Don't use water for this unless you hate your PC, just some dry cloth). Screw off all the vents, and remove any additional dust you find. Vacuum the inside of the PC to remove even more dust. If you are lucky, this has solved your problem. If not
Step two: Remove CPU cooler (There should be some sort of metal box on top of the CPU (Heatsink), remove that too), add a bit of heat paste on the side of the heat sink that is directed at the CPU. Don't overdo it.
Step three: My knowledge ends here, start replacing things until the problem goes away, or buy a new PC. You could also try to screw around in the BIOS, lowering the maximal load your CPU may take. No idea if that helps.
|
On March 24 2016 04:12 Simberto wrote:
2) Saving important data is always a good idea. Not saving important data is always dangerous. Especially on older machines.
That being said, if the problem is the CPU getting too hot, that shouldn't really influence the data saved on your hard drive. The most likely thing that could happen is your CPU breaking.
1) There are ways of dealing with this. If your CPU gets that hot, there is probably something wrong with the cooling.
Step one: Open the PC case, and clean all of the vents from dust. There is probably shitloads on there. (Don't use water for this unless you hate your PC, just some dry cloth). Screw off all the vents, and remove any additional dust you find. Vacuum the inside of the PC to remove even more dust. If you are lucky, this has solved your problem. If not
Step two: Remove CPU cooler (There should be some sort of metal box on top of the CPU (Heatsink), remove that too), add a bit of heat paste on the side of the heat sink that is directed at the CPU. Don't overdo it.
Step three: My knowledge ends here, start replacing things until the problem goes away, or buy a new PC. You could also try to screw around in the BIOS, lowering the maximal load your CPU may take. No idea if that helps.
Thanks for the quick response. I´ll be honest here. I´m scared to do all the things you mentioned. I´m a complete noob when it comes to the inside of a PC. Especially the part with the Heat paste. I know what is what but last time I did something like that it didn´t worked out so well. The IT guy that ususally takes care of my PC and build it even got a little bit angry and something like :" Why do people with no knowledge actually do this?" Also my Rig is just too old to upgrade/exchange parts and I can´t buy a new one now.
|
Cleaning fans is not really dangerous, as long as you use a clean dry cloth. You usually don't even have to remove them. just look where the spinny parts are, and if it is an old PC that you have never cleaned, there will be a lot of thick grey woolish stuff in there. That is dust. It tends to block most of the air flow, and thus your PC doesn't cool anymore. This is definitively the first thing i would do (practically always whenever i have any computer problems, as it is an incredibly easy solution). There isn't really anything you can't break on the outside fans as long as you don't start ripping out cables, and for the CPU fan, you will probably have to remove it, but those are just 4 screws to remove.
Just google "Dusty PC fan", and you are going to find a lot of pictures of how it is not supposed to look, and "PC fan" to find pictures of how it is supposed to look. There is not supposed to be any grey woolish stuff in there. You can just remove it with your finger for most outside fans, and could even try with the CPU fan. As long as you are gentle and dont rip stuff of, it is very hard to do anything wrong here.
An easy solution, of course, is to find a friend/sibling who know how that stuff works (Its really not that hard) to do it for you (AND SHOW YOU HOW ITS DONE, because you are gonna have to do it from time to time), and pay them in beer.
|
Did Intel disable overclocking on the G3258 and on those non-Z97 boards that had overclocking enabled?
|
So I've got an LG G4 that I want to restore some files on.
I had a bug where my screen was split vertically and the right half would scroll up and look like static/pixels when the phone was under any load. Using google I searched that a factory reset might help, bar that just getting a new phone under warranty.
I did the factory reset, but unfortunately I didn't back up everything I should have and now I need to recover some files.
I've tried Jihosoft and Tenorshare to recover files, but neither program is detecting my phone. I have USB debugging enabled under developer settings, and my PC under My Computer shows my phone and allows me to navigate the files in it.
http://i.imgur.com/XhNt9xC.png
http://i.imgur.com/WmcKUfe.png
Anyone have an idea as to why these programs won't detect my phone? I must be missing a step somewhere.
|
I'm looking to buy the MSI GS40 very soon.
My original plan was to upgrade the SSD to 256gb at least, and the ram to 16g
After some more research, I realized that the SSD GS40 uses is M.2 NVMe, which is apparently ridiculously fast, and expensive as hell since its a new tech.
Couple things I realized
Upgrading it to a 256 m.2 NVMe will put me over budget, and realistically 256 isn't that much better, although acceptable.
Does it have to be NVMe? I'm currently still using the standard type of hard drives, and have never touched SSDs before, so any SSD will be a massive upgrade in terms of speed for me. However, I'm not sure if the slot will accept just ANY SSD.
I believe my current options are
1. Stick with the stock 128 NVMe SSD and wait for the price to lower in a year or two and upgrade to 256 or 512
2. Get a cheaper, non-NVMe but still pretty damn good SSD with higher capacity. 256 or 512. IF the slot accepts it.
3. Suck it up and get a 256 NVMe...however, I would have to really search for this, as Taiwan doesn't seem to have physical stores selling this.
Help.
|
two quick storage/SSD questions from me:
I currently have in my PC: 1x SSD ~250GB, 1x HDD ~500GB, 1x HDD ~4TB. I wanted to swap out the 500GB HDD with an SSD with them getting super cheap lately. The 250GB SSD is almost full but I basicly have my PC divided into those 3 parts which includes C:\programs (SSD) as well as D:\programs (HDD for stuff that I don't care that it's slow).
So with the swap I basicly want to make both into just one big partition rather than having seperated C:\ and D:\ right?
First of all, my quick googling tells me there should be no problem with doing that (I've never done that with SSDs before so who knows~) and I'm not quite sure what's best to get stuff working.
For data for university etc I can just copy&paste but is there a good way to keep my installed programs without having to reinstall the things that were previously located on D:\ ?
Probably best to make a back-up for both (old) SSD and the (500GB) HDD just in case on the 4TB one just to be sure I don't ruin stuff either way 
|
How do you plan to fuse the two drives into C:\? I though that's not possible really. Do you plan to do RAID with the two SSDs?
|
some random, free partition manager should work?
I mean it's obviously not one phyisical drive but just pretending to be one.
Or is there some reason this really doesn't work with SSDs and only possible with HDDs? I figured it's stupid to mix up SSD/HDD into just one so I never tried that to begin with.
|
You can't create a partition that goes over two disks. Windows has a feature where you can create a "dynamic disk" and you can have a volume that goes over several of those dynamic disks, but that feature can't be used for C:.
There's that "RAID" thingy where your hardware fuses two disks into one fake disk. You then create a partition on that fake disk, that you can use as C:. Is this what you are thinking about?
Here on Intel's website, they make it seem like their stuff can only do RAID with drives that are the same size:
http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/boards-and-kits/000005867.html
|
mmmh, again I haven't done this in years so could be I'm remembering something incorrectly and it's really not possible but I don't think that should be an issue? Worst case scenario I'm having C:\ with pretty much just the OS and everything else linked to D, like D:\programs, D:\Downloads instead of C I think? Or really worst case all on a third one called E...
Google gives me stuff like this:
![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/ap4Sgob.png)
so while I haven't tried it yet and won't be able to until next week (on my laptop atm helping out family~) it seems like it's doable?
But really the more important issue here (I'll figure something out about the rest) is wether I can fix stuff installed on D:\. In particular my GTA, because 60+ GB or something like that is on there. I have NOT bought it from steam so can't just re-DL that, only way to re-install would be with DVDs (I think?) and my Blu-ray player seems to have given up when it comes to normal DVDs / CDs 
|
That guide is not talking about two real drives. It is talking about one single real drive that is split into C: and D: on the same drive.
|
mmh, yeah seems so. From what I see you can do that for stuff that hasn't got an OS on it though, which is probably why you can't do it with C: ?
So I'm going for C: for OS only and D: merged? That just changes the problem from getting stuff from D->C to C->D
Or is it that I can neither use C as target nor as what gives the extra space for D making both impossible?
I'm certainly not going to use RAID though, since again for the SSDs one is ~250GB or something like that and the other is 500GB. Might as well just use the 500GB as C in that case and use the 250GB one for whatever else, that'd still leave me with a good 150-200GB free even if I put everything on the 500GB one. I just don't want to toss the 250GB one away, and if I don't find a way to merge it I feel I'm just not going to use it
|
Assuming you keep your OS drive the same:
For the existing D drive, you should be able to just copy and paste from your old drive onto the new one, then map the new drive to the old one's letter. (Basically your current "D" becomes something like "E" and then the new drive becomes "D"). Changing drive letters is a trivial operation that takes about 30 seconds. The registry entries and relevant shortcuts should still work, just pointing to the new drive (as will also any game data/settings saved in your my documents, local, or app data folders).
I'm pretty sure spanning requires you to create a partition from the unallocated space, which means you'd have to delete your existing partition. I really don't think you gain anything from trying to create a spanned drive. Keep in mind that in a spanned drive if any drive fails, the entire spanned drive fails. Data for a given file will be potentially spread across all of the drives in the dynamic volume.
If nothing else, I'd recommend using your extra drive for automated backups. Grab something like SyncToy and set up some mirroring operations, then schedule a nightly task. You keep your data on the other drives (saved games, school work, taxes, whatever) and then via the tool it'll mirror the selected folders to your other drive (including changes).
Can never have too many backups.
|
really not sure what to make, I'll sleep a bit on it. The thing is that with the 4TB HDD one I have the space to do back-ups there if I really want to. And if I'm not able to merge the SSDs somehow I'd rather use the 500GB one as OS, so basically:
500GB SSD becomes new C (that should be doable fairly easily, right?)
250GB SSD becomes new D (copy from the old D drive would be easiest I guess)
4TB HDD for as usual + backups if I really need to
Completly toss the 500GB HDD or keep it in there unplugged if I ever need it for some back-up as a quasi external HDD lol. That one HDD was supposed to be tossed anyways, just thought I could manage the C/D stuff better
|
Depends on your definition of hard.
I think you can image your smaller drive and then deploy it to the bigger one (and still have the partition be the whole 500GB). You'll need to go into your BIOS and give the new SSD the higher boot priority, since your PC won't handle it automatically (you'll have two drives saying "boot from me" so it should just take the first one in the sequence). You can probably do something to the master boot records so that you can either dual boot or get rid of the old one. You may have to physically unplug the old one at first to get it to work, though.
Alternatively, you'll need to install Windows on the new drive and then reinstall all your programs.
You can't dynamic volume your OS drive and I think on hardware RAID it'll only let you use the smallest common denominator of the two drives (so only 250GB on the 500GB one for a total of 500GB). Besides, doubling your failure rate on your OS drive is just not a good idea (again, if one drive fails it all fails).
I think your easiest course of action is to keep your OS where it is and just move data or programs from that drive to another to free up space (since you stated it's nearly full and that's especially bad for SSDs).
---
Personally, my OS is on my smaller SSD (240GB) and I have a spanned set of 512GB that contain my games. I use regular HDDs for mass storage (I have a few TB of videos) and for additional programs or games I want to keep installed but not use my "game" SSDs for. In this case, I have minimal risk of data loss from a failing SSD taking out the volume because they're almost all Steam games which I can easily redownload and the game data is stored on the C drive or in the Steam cloud.
I actually did take out that spanned volume briefly once when I banged into my case and dislodged the SATA cable on one of the SSDs that are velcro-taped to the underside my motherboard tray. Windows was able to resume the volume once I got the cable seated correctly again without data loss, though.
|
If you're going to do what Craton^ said, theres an easier way to make sure your new drive has boot options.
You'll need to go into your BIOS and give the new SSD the higher boot priority, since your PC won't handle it automatically (you'll have two drives saying "boot from me" so it should just take the first one in the sequence). You can probably do something to the master boot records so that you can either dual boot or get rid of the old one. You may have to physically unplug the old one at first to get it to work, though.
Before installing windows on a new drive, after setting the boot priority in the BIOS, boot to your windows CD / USB.
Do the following steps: (Be carefull in these steps, you could wipe ALL your data on the wrong disks if done incorrectly)
In the windows setup (booted from CD/USB) press : "Shift+F10".
1]Type : "diskpart" and hit enter. It will load a tool called diskpart.
2]Type : "list disk". An overview of all your HDD's and SSD's should show now. Note the number of the drive you want to make your C drive. If you already have a C drive at this moment, which you want to reletter, also note the number of that drive.
If you have no C drive anymore skip the following steps(to step 6) :
3]go to your C drive disk typing : "select disk X" and press enter , where X is the number of your C drive disk.
4]Type : "list volume". You should find your current "C" here. Then type : "Select volume X" (the C drive).
5] Type: assign letter="F" (or any other letter not in use currently). You do this to make the "C" letter available again.
6] type: "select disk X"(your new disk) -> enter
7] type: "clean" -> enter
8] type: "create partition primary" -> enter
9] type: "select partition 1" -> enter.
10] type: "format quick fs=ntfs label=OS" -> enter (where OS stands, you can name your drive how you want, this is optional).
11] type: 'assign letter="C" ' (use the " signs here) -> enter, to make the new drive the C drive.
12] type: "active" - to make the drive a drive you can boot from.
13] type: "exit"
14] install windows as you normally would on the new drive.
Your other question about fusing a HDD and SSD is not really practical. The way SSD storages data is on a whole different level from how a HDD works. You may have heard of fragmentation or defragmentation. HDD used to place files in an specific order and once in a while that data needs to be rearranged to have a fast working HDD. With SSD such fragmentation doesn't exist anymore, thus 'defrag' isn't nearly as effective at all (it may even be futile).
It may be possible with some weird 3rd party tool to make all your drives into 1 drive, but I wouldn't recommend it, nor can I see much upside in trying such a thing.
|
Yeah I'd probably just image my old OS drive onto the 500GB one (never done it before!), physically unplug the old OS-drive to make sure that isn't booting under any circumstances, change booting order if I have to for some reason, see if that works with the new one in and if it does, trash all the stuff on old OS-drive, plug it back in and copy the stuff from old D onto my old OS drive (that should now be empty).
And yeah I never intended to fuse a HDD and SSD, hence me saying I didn't try it to begin with since I figured that's a bad idea. It's just that now with the 500GB HDD tossed out I'm SSD only, except for the 4TB one that hopefully isn't even spinning unless I actually use it, and thought I might give it a go.
Thing is I feel like I can get that all done quite quickly, but just literally c&p old D-drive to new SSD and use that as D-drive instead seems pretty enticing from a pure "just be done with it"-pov.
Is there a way to get my GTA V from my OS drive to my D-drive (SSD) without having to reinstall it? Like I said, that's probably a good 60GB all by itself and if I just swap that around that by itself would make things look better already on the OS-drive if I keep the 250GB one that way. I don't really have a lot of raw data on the OS-drive since I used the HDD one for that from the beginning and I don't really feel like de-installing 10 programs and re-installing them on the new one just to make some space
|
It might just work when you go into its folders and start its .exe file that it has somewhere in there. A lot of games are like that and don't really need to be reinstalled.
Also, about simple copy'n'paste of a drive's contents, when you do that in the normal File Explorer, it changes the date/time on all the files. That might be annoying (I use the date sometimes when trying to find files). There's a way to do a perfect copy from the command line with the "robocopy" command, I think this:
robocopy D:\ H:\ /e /copyall /dcopy:t
If I understood that command right, it would copy everything from a drive D: to another H: with dates and other data that's recorded about files and folders.
|
I'll look into that and give it a try when I get back to my place. Thanks for all the help o/
|
|
|
|
|
|
EPT
