EPTSimple Questions Simple Answers - Page 262
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Craton
United States17254 Posts
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
Thanks. I dont use cd drives, I'd be using a usb. I remember it all now, so no worries, question answered. thanks skyr/craton. | ||
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Craton
United States17254 Posts
Any recommendations on what to look at or where to go about looking for meaningful information? | ||
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Blisse
Canada3710 Posts
I have a small problem. I want to hook up my subwoofer in my system. Currently I have this. External DAC RCA and 6.5mm out - USB, RCA and Coaxial in Speakers RCA in, and speaker wire out Subwoofer Coaxial in, and speaker wire in/out Computer Coaxial, USB, 3.5mm out, and 5.1 surround out. Of course, the obvious path should be using the 5.1, but that defeats the purpose of the DAC then, haha. Currently I have the Coaxial out to my external DAC, then RCA out to my speakers. What I'm looking for is a way to duplicate the signal on a coaxial or RCA cables. I'm pretty sure this isn't possible, but I would like some feedback on how to make this work. I would run the speaker wires out of the main speaker, but it's supposed to be connected with the other speaker, and running two cables out of one connection doesn't seem right. Any thoughts? | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
On January 11 2013 12:59 Craton wrote: Sometime in the near future I'll be moving into a single-room apartment where I'll be needing a router/modem. I use large amounts of bandwidth both up and down. Wireless is of minimal importance. Any recommendations on what to look at or where to go about looking for meaningful information? i dealt with this issue. all modern routers will have wireless, there is no 'wired router' anymore (or they aren't any cheaper, or better). As long as the router was made in the last 5 years, you are fine, for the most part. What is your internet speed? The really old routers, you need to look at the specification called "throughput", 10 year old routers will have like 10 throughput, or something limiting, and that won't allow 20mb/down to go through it (but wont do anything to your 5mb/s up). Any router in the last few years will have more than enough throughput for most internet connections though. Wired features aren't even about wireless anymore, its about ridiculous stuff like reaching the guest house and fidelity at long range. I'd say just get the cheapest router you can within reason, like go on craigslist and then google the model to make sure it has enough throughput and no firmware issues, and go for that. You can also just get the cheapest possible router at any retailer (since a retailer won't be carrying anything older than 2 years old, i mean no 10 year old routers for sure). And VPN, and internal networking, like transferring files between one computer on the network to another. Modems basically are about really, really specialized features that if you don't know what they are, you don't need them. Now if wireless was important to you, or you have range or quality issues with the wireless, that'd be a little different.... i mean not really, but it could. It does feel like $40+ just for wired internet is too expensive though. | ||
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TheRabidDeer
United States3806 Posts
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Craton
United States17254 Posts
On January 11 2013 18:08 Belial88 wrote: i dealt with this issue. all modern routers will have wireless, there is no 'wired router' anymore (or they aren't any cheaper, or better). As long as the router was made in the last 5 years, you are fine, for the most part. What is your internet speed? The really old routers, you need to look at the specification called "throughput", 10 year old routers will have like 10 throughput, or something limiting, and that won't allow 20mb/down to go through it (but wont do anything to your 5mb/s up). Any router in the last few years will have more than enough throughput for most internet connections though. Wired features aren't even about wireless anymore, its about ridiculous stuff like reaching the guest house and fidelity at long range. I'd say just get the cheapest router you can within reason, like go on craigslist and then google the model to make sure it has enough throughput and no firmware issues, and go for that. You can also just get the cheapest possible router at any retailer (since a retailer won't be carrying anything older than 2 years old, i mean no 10 year old routers for sure). And VPN, and internal networking, like transferring files between one computer on the network to another. Modems basically are about really, really specialized features that if you don't know what they are, you don't need them. Now if wireless was important to you, or you have range or quality issues with the wireless, that'd be a little different.... i mean not really, but it could. It does feel like $40+ just for wired internet is too expensive though. I was toying around with the idea of getting a Cisco commercial router to have more control configuring things, but the price and need is a bit much for what I wanted (I have about 1000 hours of training on designing and implementing commercial networks, but I find much of it unhelpful when it comes to researching residential stuff and I'm pretty rusty on it to boot :p) In any event, I think my question is more geared toward modems. When I last bought a modem I recall being severely limited in choices because only 2 or 3 were capable of handling my Internet speeds (like only limits of 24Mbps down). Those that were capable of higher throughputs were obscenely expensive. Most likely I just errantly associated that with a router and never really thought about it. A cursory look seems to indicate this is still the case. I don't know what my bandwidth will be yet, but I fully anticipate having one of the high packages. On January 12 2013 06:14 TheRabidDeer wrote: So my cell contract expired, and I am looking to upgrade to a new phone. What are the best phones on the market atm? Galaxy S3? Iphone 5? I dont want to spend more than ~100 (with a contract renewal). I think that's a bit too open-ended of a question, since most of it is just user preference. A few of my coworkers that have owned more smartphones than they should (Galaxy S3, iPhone 5, etc.) all seem to think they're each more or less the same. The S3 screen is pretty huge, though. | ||
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TheRabidDeer
United States3806 Posts
On January 12 2013 10:48 Craton wrote: I think that's a bit too open-ended of a question, since most of it is just user preference. A few of my coworkers that have owned more smartphones than they should (Galaxy S3, iPhone 5, etc.) all seem to think they're each more or less the same. The S3 screen is pretty huge, though. Ah, I see. I wasnt sure as the only smartphone I have owned is my droid x. | ||
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alQahira
United States511 Posts
Thanks! | ||
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Craton
United States17254 Posts
On January 12 2013 15:36 TheRabidDeer wrote: Ah, I see. I wasnt sure as the only smartphone I have owned is my droid x. Your best bet is perusing phone stores (IRL) to test out the interfaces and get a feel for them. You also want to consider the selection of apps for each OS (if you're leaving Android for iOS or WP then you'll need to find new apps that do what yours do now). On January 12 2013 17:33 alQahira wrote: My PWM CPU fan (on a hyper 212+) recently started making a clacking noise when it speeds up. Basically the only thing that triggers it is running prime95. During normal operation, even when playing sc2 and streaming with obs, it doesn't make the sound, and temps are all fine. Even with the sound and overclocked my temps are only in the high 60s while running prime 95. Is this a sign that the fan may fail soon? Should I do something to fix the sound? Thanks! Reminds me of: Patient: "Doctor, it hurts when I do this" Doctor: "Then stop doing that" | ||
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Blisse
Canada3710 Posts
On January 12 2013 17:33 alQahira wrote: My PWM CPU fan (on a hyper 212+) recently started making a clacking noise when it speeds up. Basically the only thing that triggers it is running prime95. During normal operation, even when playing sc2 and streaming with obs, it doesn't make the sound, and temps are all fine. Even with the sound and overclocked my temps are only in the high 60s while running prime 95. Is this a sign that the fan may fail soon? Should I do something to fix the sound? Thanks! The CPU fans on the Hyper 212 series have horrid noise issues once they hit 80%~ speed. Since you really don't need to ever use Prime95... just don't run it and you won't have any noise issues. This kind of fan profile is normal for a lot of okay and worse fans, but lots of good fans sound horrible with huge CPU loads. For ~$30, you shouldn't really expect more from a CPU cooler. | ||
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alQahira
United States511 Posts
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NemesysTV
United States1088 Posts
so will this card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130663 Fit in this case? http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01616194&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en&product=3867529 Trying to find a replacement for today with a max with 100 by tonight. Also if anyone could tell me how well it could run SC2, it would be great. | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
A better graphics card like the two-generations-old and mid-end GTS 450 would let you crank up to high/ultra type graphics settings without the graphics card being the limitation. Anyway, it's not going to improve meaningful framerates (particularly late game, in battles, when it really counts) unless you've been trying to push the 9500 GS on settings it can't handle. | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
i'm building a computer for my father, who bought Norton 360 (dont ask). Would it be better to use a paid version of Norton 360, or MSE? I've tried Avast, I didn't like it, but if you wanna say Avast is better or worse, for reference, I would understand. | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
On January 12 2013 10:48 Craton wrote: I was toying around with the idea of getting a Cisco commercial router to have more control configuring things, but the price and need is a bit much for what I wanted (I have about 1000 hours of training on designing and implementing commercial networks, but I find much of it unhelpful when it comes to researching residential stuff and I'm pretty rusty on it to boot :p) In any event, I think my question is more geared toward modems. When I last bought a modem I recall being severely limited in choices because only 2 or 3 were capable of handling my Internet speeds (like only limits of 24Mbps down). Those that were capable of higher throughputs were obscenely expensive. Most likely I just errantly associated that with a router and never really thought about it. A cursory look seems to indicate this is still the case. I don't know what my bandwidth will be yet, but I fully anticipate having one of the high packages. I think that's a bit too open-ended of a question, since most of it is just user preference. A few of my coworkers that have owned more smartphones than they should (Galaxy S3, iPhone 5, etc.) all seem to think they're each more or less the same. The S3 screen is pretty huge, though. Well every time I've gotten internet somewhere - and I've moved many times the last few years so I've tried many different services - I got a modem along with the internet, that was actually high quality. Is the modem from the service you are looking at (i hope fios is in your area) so terrible? There may be a rental fee.... is that why you are looking to buy? I pay a rental fee but it's so small that it outweighs the cost of buying a modem until like 3-4 years, something like that in my case, and by then, I hope Fios will be here. | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
On January 12 2013 06:14 TheRabidDeer wrote: So my cell contract expired, and I am looking to upgrade to a new phone. What are the best phones on the market atm? Galaxy S3? Iphone 5? I dont want to spend more than ~100 (with a contract renewal). You realize you can buy phones second-hand, right? Ebay, craigslist, and there are many, many other sites to do so, that will allow you to get a phone for cheaper than new. Despite the reputation craigslist and ebay have, I've had great luck both buying and selling phones on craigslist, as long as you know what you are doing (ask for the ESN before you meet and verify it online for free so that you know it isn't stolen, make sure it works when you see it, stick a sim card into it and make a few calls on it first, download a benchmarking program and run it, or ask them to download it before meeting, its free) and ebay (make sure seller lists the ESN, or message them for it, make sure they got good pics, check seller history, no one with anything less than 99.5% after 100+ feedback). Galaxy S3 is the 'best', but I need a keyboard. I'm sure you understand, you can't exactly type emails, on forums, check for the hottest deals on newegg and microcenter, and browse the internet easily, with something without a keyboard so I went with a droid 4, but if you don't care about that then options are pretty open. The iphone5 is a fast and high quality phone but a bit on the pricy side (while the s3 isn't and is much better of a phone). Droid has high quality phones, they are mostly the same (screen size, weight, keyboard or not), but certain ones actually are better than others, despite the same cpu and etc. Droid 4 has a keyboard and is one of the fastest droids (fastest? i think it was 2nd, i forget exactly, i just knew i needed a damn keyboard). They just came out with a new droid (might be too expensive for you) but that should drive prices down. Are you paying for a totally new phone or a new contract? Because it's a lot different to pay $500+ for a droid4, and pay nothing for it because you got $100 in new every 2 credit and are on contract. Who's your carrier? | ||
Womwomwom
5930 Posts
On January 13 2013 13:24 Belial88 wrote: Hi. i'm building a computer for my father, who bought Norton 360 (dont ask). Would it be better to use a paid version of Norton 360, or MSE? I've tried Avast, I didn't like it, but if you wanna say Avast is better or worse, for reference, I would understand. As far as antiviruses go, they're all varying degrees of "weak" because viruses basically pop up faster than companies can track them. As far as anti-viruses go, Norton is a disease. Sucks up a lot of resources, does little, had a history of flagging a lot of false positives. MSE/Defender, your Firewall, and UAC (assuming you actually read the prompts and don't just click yes) are probably the best things you can have. For paid antivirus software, Malwarebytes is solid despite having a pretty suss name. Not using Java helps too since the piece of shit has an huge exploit right now. | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
On January 12 2013 17:33 alQahira wrote: My PWM CPU fan (on a hyper 212+) recently started making a clacking noise when it speeds up. Basically the only thing that triggers it is running prime95. During normal operation, even when playing sc2 and streaming with obs, it doesn't make the sound, and temps are all fine. Even with the sound and overclocked my temps are only in the high 60s while running prime 95. Is this a sign that the fan may fail soon? Should I do something to fix the sound? Thanks! Lube it up! I guarantee that will fix your problem (you weren't running that sleeve bearing upside down were you? Who cares, they are so cheap anyways and lube fixes the issue). http://www.overclock.net/t/1336160/how-to-repair-msi-twin-frozr-heatsink-fans-or-how-to-fix-fans-where-there-is-no-hole-behind-the-sticker Unfortunately, you cannot open the Hyper 212+ coolermaster blademaster very easily, unlike most fans, their is no rubber stopper on the back under the sticker to pop off, and even worse, while it is glue mounted PCB like the twin frozr fans, it's very difficult to reach in there, although you can try to do what I show in the link, if you'd like. So you will need a drill! You have to be extremely careful, but drill into the back of the fan (after peeling the sticker, which, by the way, is a pain in the ass to take off, make sure you use a knife blade to slowly peel it up... if that makes sense. Angle the blade like you are cutting something, and have the tension of the sticker on the blade or else it'll rip and be a pain in the ass). There's a good chance you'll drill too far and break the fan, but that would not be a loss considering the fan is already broken. If you have this machine, it will be easy: ![[image loading]](http://www.tool-net.co.uk/data/tools/cdp301b.jpg) 1 drop of mineral oil in there is all you need. 2 drops is too much, and with 3 you will need to clean it out. Just dip a knife in some mineral oil. There are also millions of possible lubes, silicon based, whatever, but mineral oil is cheap, simple, and additive free. You can drink it afterwards too! Once you got it oiled in there, you will need to cover it up. This is where being careful with pulling off the sticker is important. If you screwed that up, just put some scotch tape or any tape or any type of sticker over the back hole. | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
On January 13 2013 13:36 Womwomwom wrote: As far as antiviruses go, they're all varying degrees of "weak" because viruses basically pop up faster than companies can track them. As far as anti-viruses go, Norton is a disease. Sucks up a lot of resources, does little, had a history of flagging a lot of false positives. MSE/Defender, your Firewall, and UAC (assuming you actually read the prompts and don't just click yes) are probably the best things you can have. For paid antivirus software, Malwarebytes is solid despite having a pretty suss name. Not using Java helps too since the piece of shit has an huge exploit right now. A quick google search brought up a lot of results from people saying it had much improved and was pretty good, but it was just a quick search and for all I know they were talking about a different version or 2 years old posts or something. Thanks. | ||
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