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Medrea
10003 Posts
On October 31 2012 08:57 ROOTT1 wrote: why pay so much for an ssd then oO? wat benefits does it have Loads things faster. Like everything. Load levels in games, pictures in photoshop. And so forth. | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
On October 31 2012 08:57 ROOTT1 wrote: why pay so much for an ssd then oO? wat benefits does it have For example, if you have your OS installed on the SSD, then booting would take less than 8 seconds whereas normally it's 25+ seconds. If you have your major programs on it, like starcraft, the game will load up instantly. For in-game performance, there really isn't any, except loading times would be instant (changing menu screens, options menu, and loading up levels). Except for the issue of loading levels, in multiplayer you have to wait for the opponent to load up, so it wouldn't really practically make much difference unless maybe the opponent had sc2 on an SSD. Really it'd just be that sc2 loads quickly and doing customs and replays by yourself would load up immediately. It is definitely a luxury item, but it does have benefits. If you go to a local electronics store, you can try out the macbook air, which has an SSD (just turn it off and reboot it lol), or maybe any other laptop/pc at the store that has an ssd. People generally will put their OS and major games and programs on it, like windows and then world of warcraft, and then everything else on a hdd. | ||
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MysteryMeat1
United States3292 Posts
AMD Phenom II X6 1045T 6 Core CPU $106 or AMD Phenom II X4 945 Quad Core CPU $72 These are the first parts im looking at but my friend said it was a really good deal. Also im not really looking to overclock, as im trying to keep it simple since im such a noob | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
I need to connect 2 computers to a modem. I have 25down/5up. I will not use wireless (it hurts connection too much, and I don't have wireless on my pc anyways), and will not be doing any sort of home networking of any kind. I just need to connect my PC, and my girlfriend's laptop, to the internet at the same time, for the cheapest possible, without a cost in performance. I currently use a linksys befsx41, which from what I understand is like 10 years old, on bad advice I got saying any router would do. It halves my down speed, it makes my internet time out for split seconds every few minutes, it sucks. I do not want any future proofing. I promise you I will never use wireless. It is only for 2 computers. I have no concern for network security (at least, for a router - it's not like directly connecting to the router is dangerous, and i have the requisite security software on my computer). Please don't try to sell me the moon, I am not going to buy an apple i-router. Thanks. It's a very simple question, but I'm having an impossibly difficult time finding an answer. I thought I could just get the cheapest router off craigslist, which I did, for $10, and apparently that didn't work out. I don't know why. So I'd like to know what I need to look for, for a decent router for my purposes. Like why is this befsx41 not working for me, I disabled all of it's security features (which helped a lot, but still). Router: ![[image loading]](http://www.speedtest.net/result/2275855265.png) Direct to Modem: | ||
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Decado
United States42 Posts
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
Or just lower your resolution to really low and see if that 'fixes' the problem. If it does, you can conclude your cpu is too weak or your graphic settings are too high (playing on low really doesn't require a very strong gpu, although it does still require one, that or a high end discrete gpu). | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
Is it the PHYSICS setting that changes if like when a unit dies, shit flies around everywhere, as opposed to if you have it off, you get like a poof of blood/explosion/etc? I don't know what it is, but when that setting is off/low, it's very confusing for me when i play. like that low quality poof is. So I want to avoid turning that off. I just wanted to make sure without having to run unit preloader a milllion times or whatever. thanks. | ||
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Decado
United States42 Posts
On October 31 2012 14:51 Belial88 wrote: ^ You aren't giving nearly enough information about anything. Try lowering your graphics (playing on low really increases your fps), playing on fullscreen or windowed to see if that makes a difference, go into ati catalyst/nvidia control panel and lowering graphics options like forced AA, turn off AA and vsync, are you sure your internet isn't an issue, do you have enough RAM and VRAM that they aren't the culprits? Get hwinfo, make sure you aren't maxing out memory, run speedtest and make sure your internet connection is okay, run that other speedtest that checks your internet quality. Or just lower your resolution to really low and see if that 'fixes' the problem. If it does, you can conclude your cpu is too weak or your graphic settings are too high (playing on low really doesn't require a very strong gpu, although it does still require one, that or a high end discrete gpu). I play on absolute lowest settings with shadows off. My specs are intel (R) Pentium (R) CPU G630 @ 2.70 ghz and i have integrated intel(R) HD graphics. I don't care how shitty it looks, I just want to know if the lowest resolution possible to play on 16  is with 1280x720Internet is fantastic. Ram is fine. | ||
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Grettin
42411 Posts
So i have had this problem for few months now, where my computer(s) doesn't recognize/detect my main monitor at all. Last PC i had had the same problem and new i got a new, upgraded setup, and the problem still exists. So basically, most of the time i boot my PC, my main monitor won't be detected and it simply doesn't show any picture. LED's are blinking and such, but only my 2nd monitor works. I've tried plugging it on/off while on windows, installing drivers, changing power plans, tried different cables and what not, but nothing seem to work any better. Only way i can get it working is by crossing my fingers and keep re-booting the whole system. Main monitor (with the problem): LG Flatron w2453TQ 2nd monitor: (working fine) EIZO FlexScan S2201W GPU: 660TI GTX (old one was HD4850 ATI) Using Win7 64bit. Any one having similar problems with the LG screen? Any suggestions? E1: Oh, i forgot to mention that sometimes the screen shows picture when booting (bios/motherboard/windows logos) but then goes blank. E2: I've also tried with completely different monitor and everything works fine. | ||
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Rannasha
Netherlands2398 Posts
On October 31 2012 12:07 Belial88 wrote: Hi. I need to connect 2 computers to a modem. I have 25down/5up. I will not use wireless (it hurts connection too much, and I don't have wireless on my pc anyways), and will not be doing any sort of home networking of any kind. I just need to connect my PC, and my girlfriend's laptop, to the internet at the same time, for the cheapest possible, without a cost in performance. I currently use a linksys befsx41, which from what I understand is like 10 years old, on bad advice I got saying any router would do. It halves my down speed, it makes my internet time out for split seconds every few minutes, it sucks. I do not want any future proofing. I promise you I will never use wireless. It is only for 2 computers. I have no concern for network security (at least, for a router - it's not like directly connecting to the router is dangerous, and i have the requisite security software on my computer). Please don't try to sell me the moon, I am not going to buy an apple i-router. Thanks. It's a very simple question, but I'm having an impossibly difficult time finding an answer. I thought I could just get the cheapest router off craigslist, which I did, for $10, and apparently that didn't work out. I don't know why. So I'd like to know what I need to look for, for a decent router for my purposes. Like why is this befsx41 not working for me, I disabled all of it's security features (which helped a lot, but still). Router: Direct to Modem: Did you update the firmware to the latest version? That could resolve some issues. Of course, if you got this thing from Craigslist, there may have been a problem with it. But for your situation, any modern router will do. I would just buy a new one from a reputable brand, Linksys, Netgear, D-Link, etc... Shouldn't cost more than $40-$45, but at least it'll come with warranty if it doesn't work properly. Almost all models these days come with wireless, so don't search too long for something that explicitly doesn't have wireless. On October 31 2012 11:34 MysteryMeat1 wrote: So I want to build a desktop for 600$ and i found two different cpus. If my goal is to primarily play video games which of the two should i get? Pl AMD Phenom II X6 1045T 6 Core CPU $106 or AMD Phenom II X4 945 Quad Core CPU $72 These are the first parts im looking at but my friend said it was a really good deal. Also im not really looking to overclock, as im trying to keep it simple since im such a noob For games, the X6 offers practically nothing over the X4, so the choice between the two is easy. Keep in mind though that both processors are rather old models and while they're fine chips by themselves, they have been surpassed on many fronts by more recent Intel processors. So you may want to consider those as well. Best to just compile a complete list of the parts you want for your desktop and see what fits in terms of budget / performance-requirements. | ||
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Medrea
10003 Posts
What gives? | ||
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Ettick
United States2434 Posts
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
On November 01 2012 04:11 Medrea wrote: It almost seems like something is wrong when my tiny iPod Shuffle can make my headphones louder than my computer (with everything maxed out). What gives? Because the motherboard manufacturer doesn't care? The usual Realtek ALC audio chips claim max full-scale output of something like 1-1.5V rms. If the motherboard is using its line output rather than the headphone output, there would be 100 ohms output impedance between the source output and any headphones you connect, so the voltage the headphones sees would be V_L = V_s * Z_L / (Z_s + Z_L), so potentially a lot less than the source voltage. + Show Spoiler [notation] +
On the iPod Shuffle side, it's probably using a 3.7V battery and some kind of IC to handle all storage/audio duties. With 0V and 3.7V, a certain "rail-to-rail" type of output may be able to manage something like 2.82 V peak-to-peak, or 1V rms. Or not. In theory, they could easily use something more complicated; the integrated Texas Instruments TPA6130 headphone driver / volume control chip can output like 1.9V rms even on just 3.7V power, because it uses an internal charge pump to generate a virtual negative rail from the positive one. I know the normal iPods are supposed to have a max output around 1V rms, so the Shuffle might be the same, or maybe just more like 0.5V rms like some other portables. Most of the iPods have something like 2-8 ohms of output impedance, depending on the model. Unfortunately there's not much real specs or information anywhere on what's really going on, though if you had a multimeter, you could easily check yourself. | ||
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Medrea
10003 Posts
I did figure it was voltage related. You answered the fuck out of my question. Thanks. As I wear these sennheisers I think they are starting to max out higher. Could be just me though. | ||
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Whatson
United States5357 Posts
I tried looking on Battle.net for a fix, but none of the suggestions worked  | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
Did you update the firmware to the latest version? That could resolve some issues. Of course, if you got this thing from Craigslist, there may have been a problem with it. I would not post the problem without quadruple checking and reinstalling the firmware first. So... why get a recent $40 router? Why can't I get a router off craigslist again? What I'm asking is... what exactly is the problem? Why am I having this problem? I mean... i could tell you why a 10 year old CPU wouldn't work, it wouldn't work because it's architecture, core count, and speed is too low. So why is a 10 year old router not work? What specifically makes my router not work? It seems like it's 'up to par' right? I mean, 10/100 is all you need right? Do I need to buy a new router? Can i buy it used? Is a 5 year old router okay? Or is that too old? Maybe 3 year old? What exactly would make a router work or not work for me? Do all routers slow down the internet? For games, the X6 offers practically nothing over the X4, so the choice between the two is easy. Keep in mind though that both processors are rather old models and while they're fine chips by themselves, they have been surpassed on many fronts by more recent Intel processors. So you may want to consider those as well. Best to just compile a complete list of the parts you want for your desktop and see what fits in terms of budget / performance-requirements. What intel processor for $72 is better than a MD Phenom II X4 945 Quad Core CPU because that's shocking. I didn't know intel made processors that were better than AMD for the price, at below .... $200. My athlon ii x4 is more than enough power to stream 720p starcraft 2 on ultra graphics. Why sell the guy the stars, he's only playing starcraft. obviously an intel is awesome. but its like telling someone looking for a civic how much better a ferrari is. i mean, duh, but he's not looking at that price range obviously and he's just commuting 5 miles to work, not the indy 500. sorry if this sounds hostile but just curious what exactly you mean. its no secret intel is 'better' but for the price. And seriously where do you find an x4 phenom ii for $72. | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
http://www.biostar.com.tw/app/en/mb/introduction.php?S_ID=450#dl Lo and behold, apparently biostar decided to release a bunch of updates this year to like a 5 year old mobo. The chipset driver - i dont know if there's more to it, but it gave me a checkbox asking for which do i want to install, folding@home and ati catalyst. I can uncheck folding@home, but I can't uncheck ati catalyst. bear in mind, I have an nvidia GPU and nvidia control panel, I dont need radeon stuff. So if I go with this... will it update my chipset and whatever, and the ati catalyst is just junk added on that i just remove off? or should i just not download this chipset driver. | ||
Womwomwom
5930 Posts
On October 31 2012 12:07 Belial88 wrote: I currently use a linksys befsx41, which from what I understand is like 10 years old, on bad advice I got saying any router would do. It halves my down speed, it makes my internet time out for split seconds every few minutes, it sucks. That isn't really true because I specifically said this: On May 04 2012 21:47 Womwomwom wrote: ADSL2+ is the first entry in Google. According to Wikipedia, its at least 24.0 Mbit/s down and 1.3 Mbit/s up. Of course, you're probably never going to reach those speeds for lots of reasons but literally every branded (i.e. Netgear, Buffalo, Linksys) modem from a non-shady Asian store will do those speeds. The reason I tell you to buy from Best Buy is because it may be difficult to return goods on Craigslist. Unless you are absolutely destitute (how can you afford this internet then?) and cannot afford a $50 router/router+modem (if you read the specs, they exceed your internet connection's speeds by a magnitude of like 10 times), then why would you risk DOA products or products that may not serve your purpose? You seem to worried about bottlenecking so why add additional risk of a defective/unsuitable product just to save lunch money? Best Buy offers a 30 refund period for all nonperishable goods. I'm not American but I know people who buy monitors from Best Buy just to review them and then return it after they are done. There is basically no risk in getting some random router/router+modem in this situation. People are getting angsty because there is no reason to be so indecisive. I assume that when you said someone gave you bad advice, you mean me since you PMed me. Just to clarify, I suggested this specifically so you can return the damned thing if it fucks your shit up. If your settings are correct and your internet is fine, then you can rule out the router because its definitely good enough to handle loads from two people. I said get any router from Best Buy because they offer the most generous return policy in the world. And I mean this, I have no heard of any big box retailer that is willing to accept change of mind returns like they do. Someone has literally taken a dump inside a broken Antec 300 and returned it to Best Buy no questions asked. Rannasha suggests doing the same thing (buy a brand name from an actual reputable source instead of a source that people sell broken goods on) because its the sensible thing to do. But you've picked Craigslist because...? Just now, I took a really quick look at Best Buy and the routers are basically $20 new or $20 for a mid range refurbished model. | ||
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Womwomwom
5930 Posts
On November 01 2012 17:19 Belial88 wrote: Figured out my router problem. The wan to lan throughput is too low. It was fast for it's day but it's a bottleneck for my 25 down. That's why i can stream 720p sc2 just fine on my router but can't watch hd video cleanly. I also think i may have some internet issues. anyways. http://www.biostar.com.tw/app/en/mb/introduction.php?S_ID=450#dl Lo and behold, apparently biostar decided to release a bunch of updates this year to like a 5 year old mobo. The chipset driver - i dont know if there's more to it, but it gave me a checkbox asking for which do i want to install, folding@home and ati catalyst. I can uncheck folding@home, but I can't uncheck ati catalyst. bear in mind, I have an nvidia GPU and nvidia control panel, I dont need radeon stuff. So if I go with this... will it update my chipset and whatever, and the ati catalyst is just junk added on that i just remove off? or should i just not download this chipset driver. You don't want ATI Catalyst. If you can't unselect drivers, update manually. The chipset drivers appear to be nothing but Realtek and USB2.0 host drivers. That is to say Biostart doesn't really care about post-sale support. I'm not sure why a low end motherboard even be asking whether or not you want to ask you to install folding@home and ATI Catalyst. The chipset drivers are 69.44 MB large, which is much smaller than any modern ~200mb AMD Catalyst file so maybe you downloaded the wrong file? Edit: I just downloaded the chipset driver from the link you provided. Haha holy shit: ![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/a80EK.png) Yeah I can see why you're confused. Biostar hasn't uploaded chipset drivers: they're old ATI discrete GPU driver files. Seems like Biostar has "accidentally" uploaded a really, really old version of ATI Catalyst (revision number nine) instead of their motherboard's chipset drivers.. Checking the links for the files, I know what Biostar has done. They have driver support for Windows XP and that will give you the right chipset driver setup file for Windows XP. But they haven't bothered updating chipset drivers for Windows Vista and 7. But they can't leave those Windows 7 links empty, because it would look bad, so they've uploaded some really old ATI Catalyst file instead. So the original recommendation still stands: You don't want ATI Catalyst. If you can't unselect drivers, update manually. The chipset drivers appear to be nothing but Realtek and USB2.0 host drivers. That is to say Biostart doesn't really care about post-sale support. | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
I assume that when you said someone gave you bad advice, you mean me since you PMed me. Just to clarify, I suggested this specifically so you can return the damned thing if it fucks your shit up. If your settings are correct and your internet is fine, then you can rule out the router because its definitely good enough to handle loads from two people. Not at all, I'm terribly sorry you feel that way. I PM'd you because I felt like you had given the best advice. I have a lot of respect for you. I intend to buy a router from best buy, and while there, look up competitive prices online on my phone and get the router for the cheapest possible price, with the 30 day return policy. I went ahead and updated the Bios screen/utility, and Onboard Lan and Audio. I think the updates are actually because Biostar released a bunch of updates to it's coveteddd T-series motherboards, which are really similar to the a770e3, but not exactly the same. I always wondered why didn't they both just use the same firmware/updates/bios/drivers. Guess they finally decided, in part, to make them the same. yea i just avoided downloading chipset and updated what needed to be updated. the audio, lan, and bios screen and utility. I've had great experience so far with biostar. They've replied to quite a few emails from me in regards to my cpu reading below ambient temperatures and 4, unlabeled temperature monitors on the motherboard that aren't clear what they are attached too. And, the motherboard vram still hasn't blown out. if you recall how i sawed an old am2 heatink to be 1cm wide, and then used thermal tape to stick it onto my mosfets, since they have no heatsinks on them, and are 4+1 and i was overclocking/unlocking. | ||
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