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On August 29 2012 03:12 micronesia wrote:
One thing I don't get... I am responsible for paying for shipping. The item broke due to a mistake they ostensibly made. Why do I have to pay for shipping? Why can't they invoice me for the cost of fixing the item while they are at it? Why shouldn't I be paying for the coffee they drink while they fix the GPU?
I realize this is common practice... just not sure what the explanation is :p
Maybe you can ask for a UPS label for shipping.
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United States24568 Posts
The instructions specifically said shipping and shipping cost (as well as the well being of the product during shipping) are the customer's responsibility in the instructions/terms.
Unfortunately shipping the damn thing cost me 15 dollars! If they don't come through with a viable/working card, and soon, I am going to be quite annoyed!
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On August 29 2012 03:57 micronesia wrote:
The instructions specifically said shipping and shipping cost (as well as the well being of the product during shipping) are the customer's responsibility in the instructions/terms.
Unfortunately shipping the damn thing cost me 15 dollars! If they don't come through with a viable/working card, and soon, I am going to be quite annoyed!
I recently had to RMA my moterhboard, cost me 12€, for a not even 45€ product, it's pretty insane...
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On August 29 2012 03:57 micronesia wrote:
The instructions specifically said shipping and shipping cost (as well as the well being of the product during shipping) are the customer's responsibility in the instructions/terms.
Unfortunately shipping the damn thing cost me 15 dollars! If they don't come through with a viable/working card, and soon, I am going to be quite annoyed!
Hmm when did this thread get stickied?
Anyways in most cases its pretty good when all you have to pay for is shipping when you do RMA. I'm currently RMAing my mechanical keyboard which goes for about $65 at the moment. Shipping only costed me around $11 with delivery confirmation. I'm pretty damn happy with that. Although if your item is a lot cheaper, in most cases its better to just buy a new one. I'm just hoping my replacement comes by a bit quicker, gaming on a laptop keyboard sort of sucks.
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United States24568 Posts
On August 29 2012 07:52 Sovano wrote:Show nested quote +On August 29 2012 03:57 micronesia wrote:
The instructions specifically said shipping and shipping cost (as well as the well being of the product during shipping) are the customer's responsibility in the instructions/terms.
Unfortunately shipping the damn thing cost me 15 dollars! If they don't come through with a viable/working card, and soon, I am going to be quite annoyed! Hmm when did this thread get stickied? Anyways in most cases its pretty good when all you have to pay for is shipping when you do RMA. I'm currently RMAing my mechanical keyboard which goes for about $65 at the moment. Shipping only costed me around $11 with delivery confirmation. I'm pretty damn happy with that. Although if your item is a lot cheaper, in most cases its better to just buy a new one. I'm just hoping my replacement comes by a bit quicker, gaming on a laptop keyboard sort of sucks.
What else would you have to pay for if your item under warranty craps out?
I'm also assuming that the manufacturer will at least pay for the shipping back to my place...
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I have been using RAM rated at 1.6v with my 3570k for about 3 and a half months. Today, my system booted for a few seconds, and then immediately shut down. I then found out that the 3570k is supposed to use RAM rated at 1.5v. I read over on the tomshardware forums that even though 1.6v ram is incompatible with the IB, its still safe... is this true? The post in question also says that voltages up to 1.65v is safe for IB.
here is the post in question, http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/313257-30-best-3570k#t2098311
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On August 29 2012 08:26 micronesia wrote:Show nested quote +On August 29 2012 07:52 Sovano wrote:On August 29 2012 03:57 micronesia wrote:
The instructions specifically said shipping and shipping cost (as well as the well being of the product during shipping) are the customer's responsibility in the instructions/terms.
Unfortunately shipping the damn thing cost me 15 dollars! If they don't come through with a viable/working card, and soon, I am going to be quite annoyed! Hmm when did this thread get stickied? Anyways in most cases its pretty good when all you have to pay for is shipping when you do RMA. I'm currently RMAing my mechanical keyboard which goes for about $65 at the moment. Shipping only costed me around $11 with delivery confirmation. I'm pretty damn happy with that. Although if your item is a lot cheaper, in most cases its better to just buy a new one. I'm just hoping my replacement comes by a bit quicker, gaming on a laptop keyboard sort of sucks. What else would you have to pay for if your item under warranty craps out? I'm also assuming that the manufacturer will at least pay for the shipping back to my place...
If my warranty ran out I'd just buy a new one. But anyways I'm pretty sure most manufacturers would pay for the return shipping. Although you should check to be sure that you don't have to pay for both ways. However, I highly doubt they'd do that.
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On August 29 2012 09:34 Halure wrote:I have been using RAM rated at 1.6v with my 3570k for about 3 and a half months. Today, my system booted for a few seconds, and then immediately shut down. I then found out that the 3570k is supposed to use RAM rated at 1.5v. I read over on the tomshardware forums that even though 1.6v ram is incompatible with the IB, its still safe... is this true? The post in question also says that voltages up to 1.65v is safe for IB. here is the post in question, http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/313257-30-best-3570k#t2098311
It's very unlikely that caused the current problem. In fact, ignore it completely in troubleshooting this problem.
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XFX has given me permission to put an aftermarket cooler on my graphics card instead of sending it in to them for warranty repairs. The fan on the card (6870 ZHFC is very loud and I've heard of several other people whose fan breaks on this card) is the only problem, so if there were some way to get an aftermarket cooler for less that would be really nice. So is there anything I should know about aftermarket cooling before I commit to either decision? I don't really know what things would fit or how much I would need to replace or even how high of quality I would need to get to properly cool the thing. Thanks!
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In my task manager i found 2 running programs that looked suspicious called samSs description - security account manager and the other was called KeyIso key isolation, both with the same pid number. What is and how rid?
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5930 Posts
On August 30 2012 02:42 Mordanis wrote:
XFX has given me permission to put an aftermarket cooler on my graphics card instead of sending it in to them for warranty repairs. The fan on the card (6870 ZHFC is very loud and I've heard of several other people whose fan breaks on this card) is the only problem, so if there were some way to get an aftermarket cooler for less that would be really nice. So is there anything I should know about aftermarket cooling before I commit to either decision? I don't really know what things would fit or how much I would need to replace or even how high of quality I would need to get to properly cool the thing. Thanks!
Its a pain in the ass to do. That's about it. Make sure you don't strip the tiny screws holding the bracket because that's when you're truly screwed.
Also check if the cooler you buy will fit on your specific aftermarket model. If I remember correctly, most will only 100% fit on reference design GPUs and not aftermarket designs.
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Can someone recommend some program to limit the bandwith of certain programs. Like if I want to set a max download speed for steam (right now I have to pause downloads because steam throttles everything I'm doing when it's downloading something).
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Recently, in the past few days, my computer has been crashing and just goes to a blank grey screen with horizontal lines. And at least two times the computer just froze for 10-20 seconds then my monitor said no input was detected and went into sleep mode. The grey screen has come up when playing games.
i7 2600 CPU @ 3.4Ghz (50C at load)
8GB ram
sapphire 6950 2GB @ 900Mhz/1350Mhz (overclock has been stable the last two months, temps at load never get above 80C)
Corsair CX 500 v2 PSU
I'm not sure if it's the overclock on my graphics card that might be doing this, but it has been running stable in all of my games for the past two months. Drivers and everything are up to date.
Any of the tech guys know what might be the problem/how to fix it?
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I've tried to google it but I can't find a straight answer
I have a new macbook air (which only has 128gb space), and had to partition windows 7 onto it for a lockdown spreadsheet program for school. I was using bootcamp but I was having difficulties doing it, so I brought it to my school to have them to do it (like I did last year). I had forgotten to tell him how big/small I wanted the partition to be, so he put 60gb on it. Sweet mother of Christ, I only wanted like 20-25, however small it could possibly be.
Is it possible to shrink the windows partition without having to completely erase it and start over?
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I had to switch my router recently and since than some internet releated stuff doesnt work anymore, the rest is still fine.
I cant watch streams, gom vods dont work and i cant log in to SC 2.
Someone can offer any help? Thany you very much.
Edit: Solved, had to reset the router.
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Nothing significant. LE/CSM has more USB ports and a legacy PCI port (where as the LX Plus has no PCI port and has a parallel port instead.
These boards are for Sandybridge non-K processors.
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Does anyone know which headsets these are being used at the Redbull Lan?
![[image loading]](http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/8657/41277162.png)
These were also used at IEM Cologne.
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On August 31 2012 12:39 skyR wrote:
Nothing significant. LE/CSM has more USB ports and a legacy PCI port (where as the LX Plus has no PCI port and has a parallel port instead.
These boards are for Sandybridge non-K processors.
So if I'm getting a 2500K then I need to go for a more expensive option? Any suggestions?
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If you're getting a 2500k than a P67, Z68, or Z77 is required for overclocking. Something like an Asrock Z77 Extreme4 for around $110 would be fine.
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EPT
