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Finland33997 Posts
Sidenote, Kingwins are manufactured by Super Flower aren't they?
Btw with multiple rails you just kind of... concentrate on the combined amperage, they should always have that in the label.
(but basically theres one rail that has the amperage that's listed as total, and that's split into multiple ones that each have the max amperage listed, but obviously they can't get more combined amperage than the max amperage of the single rail that ends up being split)
On October 04 2011 17:50 nam nam wrote:
I read a review of a virtual rail psu where is said something about some overcurrent protection limiting the amperages for the virtual rails in some way. I don't know that much about psu's but maybe it's related to what you are wondering?
And OCP is what makes the rails... be split. As in there's the cheap units that are labeled as having multiple rails but they have no OCP so it ends up being just a single rail even though in the unit itself there's 2 clearly visible rails(but it doesn't matter without OCP)
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thats what i was trying to say yo
yeah they are, same with nzxt and i think sparkle? not sure
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On October 04 2011 18:35 Medrea wrote:
OK, im gonna digest that whole article another time when im not tired. I read the excerpt.
I understand it would just be easier to just shut up and read the label. But I'd rather be in a position where I can think for myself.
well i dont see how you could do it any other way than reading the label
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Finland33997 Posts
On October 04 2011 19:03 Legatus Lanius wrote:Show nested quote +On October 04 2011 18:35 Medrea wrote:
OK, im gonna digest that whole article another time when im not tired. I read the excerpt.
I understand it would just be easier to just shut up and read the label. But I'd rather be in a position where I can think for myself. well i dont see how you could do it any other way than reading the label
you could open it I guess and check the capacitors for the max amperage they can handle but that'd be pretty silly imo and if they're good capacitors that can handle like 150A... then what? It's not going to be a 2000W unit.
Though it might be worthwhile to check the cheaper PSUs for when it will explode before you use it.
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well you could open it up but chances are youve already bought it by then 
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Finland33997 Posts
Yep, exactly. I don't think the stores exactly let you open up PSUs in order to check the capacitors.
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You'd have to check a lot more than the capacitors (hint: try looking at all the heatsinked semiconductors for starters, not to mention coils), but even then you may not get a good idea.
In 99% of multi-+12V rail power supplies, either (1) they're lying about having multiple rails or (2) every rail is handled by the same transformer and most of the same circuit. It's just that certain +12V wires are wired into different points, and groups of these wires are divided up into rail 1, rail 2, and so on. Each rail gets its own overcurrent protection sensor to see if the current on that group of wires exceeds some (safe) amount, which should only happen if there's a short. If you overload the power supply evenly, total over power protection will kick in, or maybe something else, or I guess the OCP could as well depending how it's set and what you're doing.
Since they're all sharing the same transformer and output rectifiers, those components determine how much power can be handled. The rating on each rail is just some kind of nominal OCP trip point (though usually it's set higher than advertised, like 33A on what's advertised as 25A).
If you have a single +12V rail PSU, they just don't divide up the +12V wires into smaller groups and don't do OCP sensing for those smaller groups.
There are a few older designs (rare, especially today) that actually used two transformers and were essentially two power supplies in a box. In that case, the two +12V rails were actually generated by mostly different circuitry. e.g. Corsair HX1000
So really the difference is just in not having a safety feature. But it's not like having OCP means you're that likely to catch shorts anyway. The trip points are kind of high for that.
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is it normal to hear a crunching/grinding noise while installing my i5-2500k?
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On October 05 2011 00:29 JJGamer wrote:
is it normal to hear a crunching/grinding noise while installing my i5-2500k?
Yes. It freaks everyone out.
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is it worthwhile to plan out a computer build now, if I dont plan on purchasing until Dec or Jan? Or would prices fluctuate a lot in the meanwhile?
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I used this thread to build my PC a few months ago and was a complete success. Now my gf wants me to make her a PC, so I need your help again :D
What is your budget?
1000 USD
What is your resolution?
1920x1080
What are you using it for?
Photoshop mostly (editing pictures), and viewing pictures; probably transferring pictures from camera.
And later maybe some video editing.
She has many many many pictures and usually takes an album and plays with it in Photoshop. Some times she just browses through pictures and wants so load them fast (in a normal viewer) and view then. The pictures are quite big, usually a few MB.
What is your upgrade cycle?
4+ years
When do you plan on building it?
During October 2011.
Do you plan on overclocking?
No, but we would if it increases visibly the performance.
Do you need an Operating System?
No.
Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire?
No.
Where are you buying your parts from?
www.newegg.com
(Actually from a Romanian site but I already adjusted the budget to take care of the price difference, so please use newegg.com for reference)
Important Notes
She wants an i7 and maybe later a Video Card, when she begins video editing.
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She won't need an i7 if asking for you to build it for her, a cheaper i5 will do the job.
You should prob get a 7200rpm hdd 1 tb and a 5400rpm 2tb one if she plans on having lots of data saved up
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Finland33997 Posts
On October 05 2011 01:37 Rachnar wrote:
She won't need an i7 if asking for you to build it for her, a cheaper i5 will do the job.
You should prob get a 7200rpm hdd 1 tb and a 5400rpm 2tb one if she plans on having lots of data saved up
No actually that's a situation where an i7 would very likely be useful.
For that budget I'd say something like 2600k, RAID0 SSDs with decent capacity and about 16GB of RAM should give her maximum performance. GPU wouldn't need to be super high-end, and something like a 6870 would probably do just fine.
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Yeah a i7 could be better, but i think i5 is plenty enough, personally iwouldn't pay the premium
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Finland33997 Posts
On October 05 2011 01:50 Rachnar wrote:
Yeah a i7 could be better, but i think i5 is plenty enough, personally iwouldn't pay the premium
Yeah I'm not sure if it's just casual or for work, if it's casual I agree. Though I think RAID0 SSDs would still be really nice and should fit the budget if she doesn't require a high-end graphics card.
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Raid0 SSDs seem like a lot of work for that budget when larger SSDs are already faster than small ones.
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yeah I don't agree with the Raid0 SSDs. One 128GB SSD should do her just fine, plus she still needs to have regular HDDs since she's going to be storing lots of photos which take lots of space.
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giving an Update on my Situation not the best I am afraid.
I wondered if my 4 Year old PSU Enermax Liberty DDX 500W would be able to run my new Setup I7-2600k,16GB G.Skill RAM,Gainward Gefore GTX580 3GB, ASUS P8Z68-V PRO everything not OVC.
I am still not exactly sure because now the following happens
On one Restart everything works fine with the Card (Driver are found and active no problems in Applications, tested with Furmark run or other testprograms so the Card should have a high Energy demand to the PSU and she worked stable, till I install anything that requires an Reset.
then it can happen that my installed Drivers are suddenly not recognized and I get Error Code 43 in Device Manager witch means either Driver not right or Card is trashed.
usually I fix this by the installing the Drivers again and remove the last thing I installed as weird as that sounds. I installed Avira for example next restart I did have Code 43 again deinstalled Avira -> restart everything works as intended, this happens with allot of Programs Microsoft related for example the Framework installations or everything Steam tries to install which is a big Problem.
does this sound like a PSU Problem or more like the Card is trashed and since its brand new I have to get it replaced.
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Well here I am again, budget got cut a bit so gotta make some changes. My biggest problem is the motherboard. A friend who is quite good with hardware said I should get the Asus P8Z68 V, but it's quite expensive considering I pretty much only need a mobo that supports OC'ing, not SLI or any other fancy stuff.
Current build:
MOBO - Asus P8Z68 V - 136,95 €
CPU - Intel Core i5 2500K - 184,99 €
HSF - Cooler Master Hyper 212+ (Gotta get it at some Finnish store) ~ 30€
GPU - GeForce GTX 560 Ti (Asus) - 198,95 €
RAM - Kingston ValueRAM 8GB CL9 - 40,74 €
PSU - Super-Flower Amazon 550W 80+ Bronze - 79,12 €
HDD - Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB - 46,00 €
DVD - Some cheap Samsung thing - 12,33 €
CASE - Antec Three Hundred - 47.90 €
Should total in about 880€ with shipping, but I also need a monitor, which will have to depend on how much the actual PC is going to cost (aiming for 1080p though). Im trying to cut the price as much as possible without losing too much performance here, so I went for Super-Flower with the PSU. Read some nice things about Super-Flower here and there, even on TL, so I assume its a decent PSU for that price even though Ive never heard of them before?
Sockets and stuff will probably change during the next 2-3 years anyway right? So kind of pointless putting money into a motherboard that supports more stuff than my current build needs, so if you could recommend some cheaper alternative than the Asus Id appreciate it.
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Asrock P67 Pro3 would be a less expensive alternative or if you want to remain with ASUS than the P8P67 (standard) would be another alternative.
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EPT
