cpu: i5-2500
motherboard: P8H67(B3) STCOM (intel h67/ATX)
ram:8gb generic korean brand
hardrive:1tb generic korean brand
gcard:GTS450 Mster D5 1GB Turbo Cool
psu: CX500 90PLUS STANDARD (ATX/500W)
case: genery korean case
Forum Index > Tech Support |
When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. | ||
locodoco
Korea (South)1615 Posts
September 09 2011 13:15 GMT
#10941
cpu: i5-2500 motherboard: P8H67(B3) STCOM (intel h67/ATX) ram:8gb generic korean brand hardrive:1tb generic korean brand gcard:GTS450 Mster D5 1GB Turbo Cool psu: CX500 90PLUS STANDARD (ATX/500W) case: genery korean case | ||
JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
September 09 2011 13:22 GMT
#10942
All components need to be in the performance range you need them to be. That's a low end gaming GPU, but since LoL isn't exactly graphics intense, that's fine. The CPU, on the other hand, is quite good, but since you're streaming, that's needed. Anyway "the same" performance is utterly variable by game. | ||
MIKster
Germany333 Posts
September 09 2011 13:35 GMT
#10943
On September 09 2011 10:44 Myrmidon wrote: Show nested quote + On September 09 2011 08:57 MIKster wrote: On September 09 2011 07:13 Rachnar wrote: http://www4.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=44315&agid=1192 8gb ram 30€ http://www4.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=42805&agid=1342 1tb hdd 43€ http://www4.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=48792&agid=1628 corsair 600w osu 55€ http://www4.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=41505&agid=1004 hd6870 141€ http://www4.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=47362&agid=699 dvd burner 16€ http://www4.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=46914&agid=1603 cheap h61 mobo 45€ http://www4.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=41226&agid=1617 i5-2400 151€ total of 481€without the case, that's up to your taste Sweet! Thanks for the quick response. I guess I'll head off and buy those parts then. Streaming at high quality graphics and 720p+ shouldn't be a problem right? And what about what Madoga said? Can I buy a cheaper power supply and therefore get a better mainboard or any other useful upgrade? I agree with Madoga regarding either the Amazon or Golden Green over the CX600 V2. That's just not a good price there, considering there's no need for a 600W unit. Given the price and the earlier suggestion, I was expecting that to be the GS600 (a little better) rather than the CX600 V2. Also not all those parts in stock I think. Look for items with green bars. There's not particularly anything worth upgrading for a small price bump though. You could get a motherboard with USB3 support if plan to use USB3 later, maybe. I picked the cheaper PSU in the Amazon 450W. Is this the right one? http://www1.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=30074&agid=1627 And as you pointed out the ASRock61 mainboard isn't in stock at the onlineshop atm. Could you suggest an alternative please? Once again big thanks to all helpers involved in this process :-) | ||
galtdunn
United States977 Posts
September 09 2011 14:29 GMT
#10944
On September 09 2011 14:10 skyR wrote: Show nested quote + On September 09 2011 13:24 galtdunn wrote:+ Show Spoiler + Okay makes sense. So a Radeon HD6850 will do what I want and for less money than the GTX 560. I'll probably shoot for that then and take $75 off the price. skyR do you think the build CuraOh posted is good? Or are there any changes you would make? Edit: What is the viability of a Dual core instead of a quad core? + Show Spoiler + It's an okay configuration. The ASUS DVD Burner is actually $21 since you should be rounding up $20.99. There's also no point in spending extra for an ASUS drive unless you can justify the specs of it which I doubt you can or you just favor ASUS over the other manufacturers. There's LG for $18: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827136238 and there's Sony for $19: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827118039 The memory is also not $40, it's actually $50 which is too high of a price for a 8gb 1333MHz cas9 kit. Mushkins are $43: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226249 There's also a core i5 2400 & 8gb PNY memory bundle for $221 which would mean that the memory comes at $31: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.723828 If you're buying before the 12th than the Corsair CX500 V2 for $50 is an okay deal. If you're not, there are better choices. If you're going with a Radeon HD6850 and you're not purchasing before the 12th or you just want to lower the checkout total further than you can just get the CX430 V2 instead or an Antec Earthwatts 380D or an Antec Neo Eco 400w. All of which are still more than powerful enough to run such a configuration since both the 6850 and core i5 combined won't exceed 200w under a gaming load. Dual cores are still okay if you're only concerned with Starcraft II, DotA 2, and the older games which all mostly use two cores. If you're looking at lowering the total further than you can get a Pentium G850 which is a dual core: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116397 The core i3 2100 isn't really worth the extra over a Pentium G850 since they're both basically identical with the only major difference being that the core i3 2100 having hyperthreading. Hyperthreading would only be beneficial for games that utilize more than two cores. Okay... the Source engine is multi-core to some extent and so is Starcraft II but having a Pentium G850 instead of a Core i5 2400 won't suddenly make the games unplayable. You could get a less expensive case and motherboard as mentioned. You could also get a 500GB HDD instead. I'm pretty sure you also never mentioned what resolution you're going to be playing the games at. If it's not 1080p than you could get away with a weaker card such as a Radeon HD5770. Okay, well I think I'll get a cheaper case. Edit2: Actually, I think I'll get the case suggested by CuraOh. Looks good and I like the low-mounted pSU as opposed to the top mounted. A couple new questions: 1. What is the difference between an i5 2500 and an i5 2400? 2. What is a DDR3/what does it do? Edit: I know what DDR3 is now, Thanks to those who posted below! What is the difference between say, DDR3 for PC3 10666 or a PC3 12800? 3. What makes a motherboard more expensive or less expensive? ie, What am I giving up by purchasing a cheaper motherboard? Edit: 4. Which PSU is better? I'm looking in the $25-50 area and don't need even 200 Watts according to skyR. Should I be looking for a 250W-300W PSU? I found these two but they are 380 and 400: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139026 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371033 I do want a 1TB hard drive, and I think I want 4 cores so I never have to upgrade it if I need to do something else (new game, etc). I'm not overly concerned about the $1-5 on the DVD burner, if the price difference isn't much I want the best quality one. And lastly, I do want to play at 1080p so I do want the HD6850. | ||
Bambipwnsu
Canada698 Posts
September 09 2011 14:42 GMT
#10945
1) Same thing just at different frequencies. The 2500 non-k is slightly faster than the 2400. Most people think its not worth the price hike for the boost in performance. If theres a good deal on the 2500 though, go right ahead. 3) Guess you can think of it just like cars. Different features (or lack of) and build quality. A Corolla will get the job done but it is not a Ferrari. | ||
MisterFred
United States2033 Posts
September 09 2011 14:51 GMT
#10946
On September 09 2011 23:29 galtdunn wrote: Show nested quote + On September 09 2011 14:10 skyR wrote: On September 09 2011 13:24 galtdunn wrote:+ Show Spoiler + Okay makes sense. So a Radeon HD6850 will do what I want and for less money than the GTX 560. I'll probably shoot for that then and take $75 off the price. skyR do you think the build CuraOh posted is good? Or are there any changes you would make? Edit: What is the viability of a Dual core instead of a quad core? It's an okay configuration. The ASUS DVD Burner is actually $21 since you should be rounding up $20.99. There's also no point in spending extra for an ASUS drive unless you can justify the specs of it which I doubt you can or you just favor ASUS over the other manufacturers. There's LG for $18: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827136238 and there's Sony for $19: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827118039 The memory is also not $40, it's actually $50 which is too high of a price for a 8gb 1333MHz cas9 kit. Mushkins are $43: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226249 There's also a core i5 2400 & 8gb PNY memory bundle for $221 which would mean that the memory comes at $31: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.723828 If you're buying before the 12th than the Corsair CX500 V2 for $50 is an okay deal. If you're not, there are better choices. If you're going with a Radeon HD6850 and you're not purchasing before the 12th or you just want to lower the checkout total further than you can just get the CX430 V2 instead or an Antec Earthwatts 380D or an Antec Neo Eco 400w. All of which are still more than powerful enough to run such a configuration since both the 6850 and core i5 combined won't exceed 200w under a gaming load. Dual cores are still okay if you're only concerned with Starcraft II, DotA 2, and the older games which all mostly use two cores. If you're looking at lowering the total further than you can get a Pentium G850 which is a dual core: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116397 The core i3 2100 isn't really worth the extra over a Pentium G850 since they're both basically identical with the only major difference being that the core i3 2100 having hyperthreading. Hyperthreading would only be beneficial for games that utilize more than two cores. Okay... the Source engine is multi-core to some extent and so is Starcraft II but having a Pentium G850 instead of a Core i5 2400 won't suddenly make the games unplayable. You could get a less expensive case and motherboard as mentioned. You could also get a 500GB HDD instead. I'm pretty sure you also never mentioned what resolution you're going to be playing the games at. If it's not 1080p than you could get away with a weaker card such as a Radeon HD5770. Okay, well I think I'll get a cheaper case. A couple new questions: 1. What is the difference between an i5 2500 and an i5 2400? 2. What is a DDR3/what does it do? 3. What makes a motherboard more expensive or less expensive? ie, What am I giving up by purchasing a cheaper motherboard? I do want a 1TB hard drive, and I think I want 4 cores so I never have to upgrade it if I need to do something else (new game, etc). The PSU suggested was 500W, and as skyR said, I think I'll get a 300W or 400W, as I don't think I'll ever be running anything requiring 500W. I'm not overly concerned about the $1-5 on the DVD burner, if the price difference isn't much I want the best quality one. And lastly, I do want to play at 1080p so I do want the HD6850. 1)A tiny difference in clock speed. The two chips are pretty close to identical, although the 2500 will have the smallest edge in performance. Add a 'K' suffix and the difference is being overclockable. 2)DDR3 is a type of memory. It's faster than DDR2 I suppose. But it doesn't really matter to you. You'll be buying DDR3. Nothing else will work for you. Clock speed and timings are insignificant (much like the difference between the 2400 and 2500. You should probably go with the cheapest 1333mhz ram in the amount you want. Although if you're on a very high budget, many pay the few $ for the very small performance increase to 1600mhz ram. 3)Phases (I think how flexible it is in providing power or modifying the use of various attached components), Connectivity (how much stuff, i.e. hard drives, graphics cards, USB 3.0, can be attached to it), brand name, and the ever amorphous 'build quality' (how much abuse it can take). For not-overclocking, single graphics card, a few hard drive solutions, basically the boards will be near identical. But as far as motherboards go, I'm not an expert. I do, however, highly recommend going with what the regular posters on this fine board recommend for you. It's easy to buy stuff you will never, ever, use when shopping for motherboards, but if these guys recommend one, you can be pretty confident it's going to do everything you need it to. Lastly, on power supplies, manufacturers lie. If it says it can do something, it often can't. And there's issues with 'ripple' (small variations in actual provided vs requested power which can overtime bother other components. Another reason to go with the power supply recommended by this board. They've done the research to know which brand is full of shit and which isn't. And which is on sale. A near miracle of friendly community help, if you ask me. | ||
JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
September 09 2011 14:54 GMT
#10947
On September 09 2011 23:51 MisterFred wrote:+ Show Spoiler + + Show Spoiler + On September 09 2011 23:29 galtdunn wrote: Show nested quote + On September 09 2011 14:10 skyR wrote: On September 09 2011 13:24 galtdunn wrote:+ Show Spoiler + Okay makes sense. So a Radeon HD6850 will do what I want and for less money than the GTX 560. I'll probably shoot for that then and take $75 off the price. skyR do you think the build CuraOh posted is good? Or are there any changes you would make? Edit: What is the viability of a Dual core instead of a quad core? It's an okay configuration. The ASUS DVD Burner is actually $21 since you should be rounding up $20.99. There's also no point in spending extra for an ASUS drive unless you can justify the specs of it which I doubt you can or you just favor ASUS over the other manufacturers. There's LG for $18: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827136238 and there's Sony for $19: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827118039 The memory is also not $40, it's actually $50 which is too high of a price for a 8gb 1333MHz cas9 kit. Mushkins are $43: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226249 There's also a core i5 2400 & 8gb PNY memory bundle for $221 which would mean that the memory comes at $31: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.723828 If you're buying before the 12th than the Corsair CX500 V2 for $50 is an okay deal. If you're not, there are better choices. If you're going with a Radeon HD6850 and you're not purchasing before the 12th or you just want to lower the checkout total further than you can just get the CX430 V2 instead or an Antec Earthwatts 380D or an Antec Neo Eco 400w. All of which are still more than powerful enough to run such a configuration since both the 6850 and core i5 combined won't exceed 200w under a gaming load. Dual cores are still okay if you're only concerned with Starcraft II, DotA 2, and the older games which all mostly use two cores. If you're looking at lowering the total further than you can get a Pentium G850 which is a dual core: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116397 The core i3 2100 isn't really worth the extra over a Pentium G850 since they're both basically identical with the only major difference being that the core i3 2100 having hyperthreading. Hyperthreading would only be beneficial for games that utilize more than two cores. Okay... the Source engine is multi-core to some extent and so is Starcraft II but having a Pentium G850 instead of a Core i5 2400 won't suddenly make the games unplayable. You could get a less expensive case and motherboard as mentioned. You could also get a 500GB HDD instead. I'm pretty sure you also never mentioned what resolution you're going to be playing the games at. If it's not 1080p than you could get away with a weaker card such as a Radeon HD5770. Okay, well I think I'll get a cheaper case. A couple new questions: 1. What is the difference between an i5 2500 and an i5 2400? 2. What is a DDR3/what does it do? 3. What makes a motherboard more expensive or less expensive? ie, What am I giving up by purchasing a cheaper motherboard? I do want a 1TB hard drive, and I think I want 4 cores so I never have to upgrade it if I need to do something else (new game, etc). The PSU suggested was 500W, and as skyR said, I think I'll get a 300W or 400W, as I don't think I'll ever be running anything requiring 500W. I'm not overly concerned about the $1-5 on the DVD burner, if the price difference isn't much I want the best quality one. And lastly, I do want to play at 1080p so I do want the HD6850. 1)A tiny difference in clock speed. The two chips are pretty close to identical, although the 2500 will have the smallest edge in performance. Add a 'K' suffix and the difference is being overclockable. 2)DDR3 is a type of memory. It's faster than DDR2 I suppose. But it doesn't really matter to you. You'll be buying DDR3. Nothing else will work for you. Clock speed and timings are insignificant (much like the difference between the 2400 and 2500. You should probably go with the cheapest 1333mhz ram in the amount you want. Although if you're on a very high budget, many pay the few $ for the very small performance increase to 1600mhz ram. 3)Phases (I think how flexible it is in providing power or modifying the use of various attached components), Connectivity (how much stuff, i.e. hard drives, graphics cards, USB 3.0, can be attached to it), brand name, and the ever amorphous 'build quality' (how much abuse it can take). For not-overclocking, single graphics card, a few hard drive solutions, basically the boards will be near identical. But as far as motherboards go, I'm not an expert. I do, however, highly recommend going with what the regular posters on this fine board recommend for you. It's easy to buy stuff you will never, ever, use when shopping for motherboards, but if these guys recommend one, you can be pretty confident it's going to do everything you need it to. Lastly, on power supplies, manufacturers lie. If it says it can do something, it often can't. And there's issues with 'ripple' (small variations in actual provided vs requested power which can overtime bother other components. Another reason to go with the power supply recommended by this board. They've done the research to know which brand is full of shit and which isn't. And which is on sale. A near miracle of friendly community help, if you ask me. Actually, the difference between the 2400 and 2500, which is definitely tiny, is still better than the equivalent in extra money spent on faster RAM in a lot of cases. Spending more on RAM doesn't make sense unless everything else is high end components, since the extra $10-20 can generally benefit you more in CPU or GPU. | ||
skyR
Canada13817 Posts
September 09 2011 15:23 GMT
#10948
The only people who should care about optical drives are those that read and write constantly... for anyone else, just get the cheapest one and replace it when SATA is replaced or when it dies. If you're wanting the best quality optical drive than you have your priorities mixed up. | ||
galtdunn
United States977 Posts
September 09 2011 15:24 GMT
#10949
On September 09 2011 23:42 Bambipwnsu wrote: + Show Spoiler + Do keep in mind that the case is something that will carry through multiple builds. If it means spending 30$ more to purchase something you like, it might be totally worth it. 1) Same thing just at different frequencies. The 2500 non-k is slightly faster than the 2400. Most people think its not worth the price hike for the boost in performance. If theres a good deal on the 2500 though, go right ahead. 3) Guess you can think of it just like cars. Different features (or lack of) and build quality. A Corolla will get the job done but it is not a Ferrari. On September 09 2011 23:51 MisterFred wrote: + Show Spoiler + 1)A tiny difference in clock speed. The two chips are pretty close to identical, although the 2500 will have the smallest edge in performance. Add a 'K' suffix and the difference is being overclockable. 2)DDR3 is a type of memory. It's faster than DDR2 I suppose. But it doesn't really matter to you. You'll be buying DDR3. Nothing else will work for you. Clock speed and timings are insignificant (much like the difference between the 2400 and 2500. You should probably go with the cheapest 1333mhz ram in the amount you want. Although if you're on a very high budget, many pay the few $ for the very small performance increase to 1600mhz ram. 3)Phases (I think how flexible it is in providing power or modifying the use of various attached components), Connectivity (how much stuff, i.e. hard drives, graphics cards, USB 3.0, can be attached to it), brand name, and the ever amorphous 'build quality' (how much abuse it can take). For not-overclocking, single graphics card, a few hard drive solutions, basically the boards will be near identical. But as far as motherboards go, I'm not an expert. I do, however, highly recommend going with what the regular posters on this fine board recommend for you. It's easy to buy stuff you will never, ever, use when shopping for motherboards, but if these guys recommend one, you can be pretty confident it's going to do everything you need it to. Lastly, on power supplies, manufacturers lie. If it says it can do something, it often can't. And there's issues with 'ripple' (small variations in actual provided vs requested power which can overtime bother other components. Another reason to go with the power supply recommended by this board. They've done the research to know which brand is full of shit and which isn't. And which is on sale. A near miracle of friendly community help, if you ask me. On September 09 2011 23:54 JingleHell wrote:+ Show Spoiler + Actually, the difference between the 2400 and 2500, which is definitely tiny, is still better than the equivalent in extra money spent on faster RAM in a lot of cases. Spending more on RAM doesn't make sense unless everything else is high end components, since the extra $10-20 can generally benefit you more in CPU or GPU. Updated From Before: I think I'll get the case originally suggested by CuraOh. Looks good and I like the low-mounted pSU as opposed to the top mounted. A couple new questions: 1. What is the difference between say, DDR3 for PC3 10666 or a PC3 12800? 2. Which PSU is better? I'm looking in the $25-50 area and don't need even 200 Watts according to skyR. Should I be looking for a 250W-300W PSU? I found these two but they are 380 and 400: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139026 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371033 I do want a 1TB hard drive, and I think I want 4 cores so I never have to upgrade it if I need to do something else (new game, etc). I'm not overly concerned about the $1-5 on the DVD burner, if the price difference isn't much I want the best quality one. And lastly, I do want to play at 1080p so I do want the HD6850. So I think I'll go for the 2500 over the 2400. I think i understand the DDR3 now, it's the RAM right? What is the difference tho, for the DDR3 for a PC3 10666 vs a OC3 12800? And as I understand it, for what I want it to do it won't matter much which motherboard I get (as long as it's a good maufacturer), And I'll be making sure whatever PSU I get is okayed by people here. Edit: @skyR: what is a PCle connector? and what is an optical drive? sorry O.o Edit2: Questions answered, thanks. | ||
skyR
Canada13817 Posts
September 09 2011 15:31 GMT
#10950
DDR3 is double data rate gen3 memory / RAM. It's short term memory for the computer and you won't be running a desktop without RAM. 10666 is 1333MHz, 12800 is 1600MHz. It's already been explained that the difference is negligible and articles have already been provided to you explaining this difference as well. The PCIe connector is used to power your graphics card. An optical drive is your DVD drive or Blu-ray drive, or any other storage medium that uses light to read and write. | ||
nam nam
Sweden4672 Posts
September 09 2011 15:51 GMT
#10951
On September 09 2011 23:42 Bambipwnsu wrote: Do keep in mind that the case is something that will carry through multiple builds. If it means spending 30$ more to purchase something you like, it might be totally worth it. I used to tell myself that to rationalize me paying extra for a case, but in retrospective looking back at how it have gone, it turns out I usually get bored of a case and get a new one anyway the next time I'm building. Or I want something like a front panel "insert something fancy." Just something to be aware of. ![]() | ||
JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
September 09 2011 15:55 GMT
#10952
On September 10 2011 00:51 nam nam wrote: Show nested quote + On September 09 2011 23:42 Bambipwnsu wrote: Do keep in mind that the case is something that will carry through multiple builds. If it means spending 30$ more to purchase something you like, it might be totally worth it. I used to tell myself that to rationalize me paying extra for a case, but in retrospective looking back at how it have gone, it turns out I usually get bored of a case and get a new one anyway the next time I'm building. Or I want something like a front panel "insert something fancy." Just something to be aware of. ![]() Meh, I actually have an alarming tendency to go through more than one case per build sometimes. If you enjoy it, nothing wrong with it. It is kinda a luxury item. Spending extra for silly or useless features is the entire point of a luxury item. | ||
galtdunn
United States977 Posts
September 09 2011 16:00 GMT
#10953
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231311 has a lot more good reviews than the one that comes with the bundle you pointed me to earlier, which is the PNY Optima http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=20-178-333&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&Pagesize=10&PurchaseMark=&SelectedRating=2&VideoOnlyMark=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Keywords=(keywords). Is the Gskill just more popular? Because if the PNY is good, I'm leaning towards the i5 2400/PNY bundle. Edit@ JingleHell: I realize they don't always mean anything, but it has 5 stars with 650+ review while the PNY has 4stars and <100 reviews. So that's why I'm asking which is better, because I know the reviews aren't always right, it's just making me suspicious. Can you answer the question? Oh and this is an arbitrary question: when typing TL posts, how do you cross thru your words but leave them there? | ||
JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
September 09 2011 16:05 GMT
#10954
On September 10 2011 01:00 galtdunn wrote: @skyR as far as DDR3 goes, the Gskill one recommended earlier http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231311 has a lot more good reviews than the one that comes with the bundle you pointed me to earlier, which is the PNY Optima http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=20-178-333&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&Pagesize=10&PurchaseMark=&SelectedRating=2&VideoOnlyMark=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Keywords=(keywords). Is the Gskill just more popular? Because if the PNY is good, I'm leaning towards the i5 2400/PNY bundle. Customer reviews on a retailers site. I bet you $10 that the vast majority of the people posting those reviews mean "it works and I paid more for heatsinks, so it must be better". | ||
skyR
Canada13817 Posts
September 09 2011 16:15 GMT
#10955
[s]enter your text here[/s] Memory is memory. They all come from the same manufacturers, GSkill may get second picks while PNY may get third? No one knows this stuff unless you're an insider and even than it's still hard to know this stuff. Regardless, $50 is still overpriced and there are less expensive GSkill kits available. It has more stars because it's been available longer? -_- | ||
buddylee
United States128 Posts
September 09 2011 16:21 GMT
#10956
What is your budget? $700-800 including a monitor What is your resolution? I don't really know what is recommended. I am looking to get a 21" monitor. What are you using it for? SC2 and maybe streaming. What is your upgrade cycle? 3 years When do you plan on building it? hopefully in the next couple months Do you plan on overclocking? no Do you need an Operating System? Yes Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire? No Where are you buying your parts from? Microcenter, Frys, or newegg.com Any help/recommendations is greatly appreciated. | ||
galtdunn
United States977 Posts
September 09 2011 16:58 GMT
#10957
i5 2400 Processor bundled w/ PNY Optima 8GB DDR3 10666 $220 CoolerMaster Case $60 Antec EarthWatts Green EA-380D Green 380W PSU or a CORSAIR Builder Series CX430 V2 430W. both $45 Gigabyte Radeon HD 6850 Graphics card $160 ASUS VH226 Monitor $150 SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB $60 Total: $695 before shipping/tax/MIR What's left if I'm not missing anything: Motherboard (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157241 @$55 was reccomended). Bluray Burner (I think? I'm still slighly confused as to the difference between a BR burner and a BR driver. Will both let me watch blu rays?) ~$205 left to spend. Hopefully this is right, if you've been paying attention to me and notice I'm missing something please let me know. | ||
skyR
Canada13817 Posts
September 09 2011 17:07 GMT
#10958
| ||
galtdunn
United States977 Posts
September 09 2011 17:12 GMT
#10959
I just don't want to find out that one of them does both after I buy one. | ||
JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
September 09 2011 17:13 GMT
#10960
On September 10 2011 02:12 galtdunn wrote: Could you please just answer the question? To me a burner would only let you burn/copy things whilst a driver lets you watch movies/read disks. Is that correct? I just don't want to find out that one of them does both after I buy one. A burner can access the media, as well as record to blank media. A drive can only access the media. In this case, access means read/watch/listen/explore, media means "the little shiney thing you put inside" and record means put stuff on the shiney thing from your computer. http://www.ehow.com/about_5468255_difference-dvd-writer-dvd-drives.html Anyone else getting the idea he shouldn't be building his own PC? | ||
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