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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
On September 05 2011 06:40 sungmny wrote: Just one more thing, you didn't give a link to the Seagate Barracuda 500GB so I'm not sure which one I should buy This one? Or this one? http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.696147 | ||
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kunstderfugue
Mexico375 Posts
 Does anyone know a good hardware provider that can ship here? | ||
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LazyMacro
976 Posts
On September 05 2011 05:43 skyR wrote: Asrock is a sister company of ASUS that targets the budget enthausist market. Feature rich boards, shorter warranty, and less expensive. They're still two seperate companies so don't expect the same level of post-sale support from Asrock (since they are targeted at the budget segment) as you do with ASUS. If you aren't interested in SLI anymore than either the Asrock P67 Pro3 for $120: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157230 If you are still interested in leaving SLI as an option down the road than the Asrock P67 Exterme4 for $155: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157265 or ASUS P8P67 Pro for $160: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131771 Newegg's stupid pricing never ceases to amaze me... if you're going with ASUS, just get the P8P67 Pro for SLI, Intel NIC, and Advance RMA. Only $5 more than the regular P8P67. Unless of course you want to deal with the mail in rebate of the standard P8P67. Power supply calculators don't give you a load figure, they give you a wattage value that your power supply should be. Yes, it has to account for a huge headroom as not all 500w power supplies are equal. Lower quality / budget ones will have a weaker 12v rail than an extremely high quality one. Let's be reasonable here... if you have the budget for a 2600k and a GTX 560 Ti. You wouldn't want a piece of shit motherboard with four phases and you wouldn't want a CX430v2... No one enjoys using adapters or daisy chaining because it becomes a nightmare for cable management. Just because more expensive models don't provide any performance gains doesn't mean you should buy the most basic ones with LazyMacro's non-existant budget in mind. I never understood the people that do this... Well, it's simple. I have enough money saved to where I can buy whatever computer I like. The problem is, I'm not willing to senselessly waste money to have a flashy case that doubles as a light show for a rave, tons of hardware I pay a premium before because there's nothing better, and so on. My goal isn't based on price; it's based on the ratio of price to performance. I want a computer that will do what I want it to do in an efficient manner without paying a lot of money just because. My last computer (that a friend basically built for me) was pretty midrange, and with a single GPU upgrade I was able to extend that build's life to almost five years. Right now, I'm about $1400 for the build I have. I've decided (until someone changes my mind, that is) to go with the ASRock Z68 Extreme4. I won't use all of its features right away, but they're there if I want to use it later. I don't really do anything with multimedia, but my understanding is that the Z68 chipset helps a lot. I've also decided to go back up to the Corsair TX750 V2 mostly so that I can leave SLI open as an option down the road. So, my biggest worry now is this: Am I spending money senselessly in the name of having options open later on? I think maybe I'm getting too hung up on what I may or may not do in a year or two. Maybe I should just buy what will work for me now and in the near future, and worry about the rest later, since I don't know what I'll be doing in two years. Edit: Along that line of thinking, I'm still thinking I should go down to the P67 Extreme4 and find a 550W PSU. More likely than not, what will end up happening is that I'll get my parts, build the computer, and then in a few years replace the GPU when the 560 Ti is struggling. I'm thinking it's a waste to get all of this extra stuff in the name of flexibility when I likely won't take advantage of those options. :\ | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
http://www.teamliquid.net/blogs/viewblog.php?id=246342 There's a blog post I did about enthusiast parts. It's only my opinion, but it may at least help you decide whether it's worth spending extra now to keep options open. (Rarely is, if you don't have specific plans.) | ||
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jacosajh
2919 Posts
The metal was easily bendable and one even came deformed. I just reshaped it using my bare-hands but I was horrified with the thought that something inside was broken. I've worked with many PSUs in the past, but I feel like this was the worst possible material ever. Anyone ever noticed this too? | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On September 05 2011 09:52 jacosajh wrote: I finally got my hands on a couple of CX430 V2's the other day for some friends/family builds and they were pretty crap quality. The metal was easily bendable and one even came deformed. I just reshaped it using my bare-hands but I was horrified with the thought that something inside was broken. I've worked with many PSUs in the past, but I feel like this was the worst possible material ever. Anyone ever noticed this too? Haven't played with that one, but I've been happy with what I got for the price with every Corsair PSU I've bought. They don't always have the best, but they're usually pretty competitively priced for what you get. The real question is whether the v2 feels as flimsy as an Apevia product... | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
I blame shipping and lack of packaging materials more than the PSU housing, if it came deformed. How did it look like? Seeing how everything is soldered into place, I don't really see any cause for concern unless the box looked more like a triangle than a rectangle. I guess with some really rough handling there could be stress fractures on PCB traces or solder joints? Possibly components ripped from their leads? Seems unlikely. edit: on second thought, I'd be worried about the fan more than anything else. | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
If it isn't made out of cardboard or some moronic shit like that, and it fits and has properly spaced and threaded screw holes, no biggy. | ||
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LazyMacro
976 Posts
On September 05 2011 09:06 JingleHell wrote: @Lazy http://www.teamliquid.net/blogs/viewblog.php?id=246342 There's a blog post I did about enthusiast parts. It's only my opinion, but it may at least help you decide whether it's worth spending extra now to keep options open. (Rarely is, if you don't have specific plans.) Really, really good blog post. When I was writing my last post I realized I was spending a lot of extra on things that I don't need, don't want, and probably won't use. Realistically, I probably won't ever use SSD caching, QuickSync, or half of the connectivity on a Z68 mobo. I probably won't ever add a second GPU later on; I'm a lot more likely to replace my GPU with another down the road. This is overwhelming. I'm going to take a break and then come back and try to be less "omg but for another $20 I can do this!" and more conscious of price vs. performance. -_- | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
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deceased
Australia6 Posts
I need advice on a build I am doing. The parts I have down are: Motherboard = Asus P8P67 Pro CPU = Intel Core i7 2600 GPU = Sapphire ATI HD6950 HDD = Samsung 1TB Spinpoint F3 Case = Coolermaster RC-692 PSU = Antec ATX EarthWatts 650W Monitor = Benq E2420HD RAM = G Skill 8GB DDR3 1600Mhz (CL9D-8GBRL) I think that list covers the main parts. I would really appreciate it if anyone could just look over it and confirm that those parts are all compatible etc. I do not plan to overclock which is why I haven't gone for a K series CPU. I am also unsure if I should buy a CPU cooler or use the stock since I am not OC. Any help would be greatly appreciated. edit: I also plan to use the computer for gaming, and multimedia. | ||
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LazyMacro
976 Posts
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On September 05 2011 12:26 LazyMacro wrote: Does the Cooler Master Hyper 212+ even work for socket 1155? The retail packaging doesn't say so. Yes. If a cooler fits 1156 it also fits 1155. Cooler mounting is the same, the pin layout of the socket is just different. | ||
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LazyMacro
976 Posts
I want to build a gaming computer that will be able to run Bad Company 2, StarCraft 2, and Battlefield 3 well (meaning, I don't want to turn anything down for the sake of framerate). This is what I'm thinking: ASRock P67 Extreme4 - P67 for overclocking - NewEgg Customer Choice Award - Tom's Hardware recommendation Intel i7 2600K - K for overclocking - 2600K rather than 2500K for streaming (?) MSI GTX 560 Ti OC - Newegg Customer Choice Award - Did well in Tom's Hardware reviews/comparisons - Good performance to price ratio G.Skill Ripjaws 8GB DDR3 1333 - NewEgg Customer Choice Award - Cheap  - On sale Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB HDD DVD Burner Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit Cooler Master Storm Scout Thoughts/concerns: - I'll need about a 550W PSU for this, if I understand everything correctly. Right? - I'm debating if I want to spend extra for an SSD to use for the OS, games I'm currently playing, etc. What about this SSD? It's a Crucial M4 64GB. - Is it worth the extra cost to go up to a 570 (or higher) to make sure I can run everything really well? | ||
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Gattaca.usa
131 Posts
windows boots up before the windows logo can even appear! this is a pretty good PSU if u want to do the rebate: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371031 its a rebranded seasonic. u will need a power cable tho. | ||
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MrEko
Canada37 Posts
How much would i need to spend to get a a computer that can run games that are new, years from now, on my 1024x768 monitor, I have including tax (12% in British Columbia I believe)? Is overclocking worth the cost and/or risk performance wise? If you answer yes to the above could you link me some guides for beginners of overclocking and building. | ||
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LazyMacro
976 Posts
Edit: This made me LOL. | ||
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galtdunn
United States977 Posts
Basically, I want a new desktop capable of running SC2 and DotA 2 (when it comes out) at medium-high settings without lagging. It also needs to be able to play blu-rays/movies, do all the normal school related stuff (Microsoft Office), and burn discs, etc. Before this post I had been consulting with my father and a friend, my friend is good with computers, while my dad has a lot of experience also. My dad has maintained that building a computer is not worth the effort because if something goes wrong I won't know how to fix it, etc; whilst my friend has been urging me the entire time to get a built one because I can get more for my money and he can help me with it. So my Dad and I had picked out this Acer Predator, but my computer savy friend told me this is not a good computer for the money it costs and that the Graphics Card is terrible (and I've done a bit of searching, it's nvidia's entry-level graphics card). So I come to you, TL Tech Forum, with a request for advice and tech knowledge. 1) Is maintaining a self-build computer easy (will I need to worry about repairs/upkeep)? I don't want to buy all the parts and then something goes wrong and I have no idea what to do. 2) Is the Acer Predator not a good computer for what I want? and 3) Assuming for some reason that buying the Acer is the worst decision of my life I haven't made yet, I'm going to provide the TL guidelines for building my own computer so I have the option to do that. So anyways, please help me out! I'm going to post in accordance to what I want in hopes that I get good suggestions, and hopefully some of you can help me out with the other part of my post too. Thanks in advance! + Show Spoiler + If you request a build, please answer these questions. We will spend as much effort on your build as you spend on your answers to these questions! I urge people to abstain from providing builds unless all the questions are answered. What is your budget? $1000 max, less is better What is your resolution? I'll be buying a monitor seperate, so whatever my new monitor is. What are you using it for? Starcraft 2, DotA 2, watching movies, school stuff. What is your upgrade cycle? I don't know. When do you plan on building it? Sooner is better, prefferably within 1-2 months. Do you plan on overclocking? I don't know. Do you need an Operating System? Yes, it will need to run Windows 7. Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire? I don't think so (I want a non-integrated graphics card, but I don't need 2, which is what I think this is asking). Where are you buying your parts from? Wherever is cheaper, I live in Southern CA so I have access to Fry's and any American based online seller (Newegg, etc). Oh and last question, I also will be needing a new monitor, I want between 19-23" and less than $200. I had picked out this Asus, is it okay? Thanks so much! :D | ||
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LazyMacro
976 Posts
Now I just need to figure out if it's worth it to spend extra for the i7 2600K over the i5 2500K for streaming, and then I need to decide if I want to get an SSD or not. If I get an SSD, any recommendations? Edit: I'm looking at these two SSDs: Intel 320 Series SATA II 120GB Crucial M4 SATA III 64GB Any thoughts? Edit: Oops, a couple of my posts have been pretty redundant. My mistake. -_- | ||
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Legatus Lanius
2135 Posts
is there any actual, practical difference between a power supply like the ax750 and the tpn-750? i know the corsair has better internals, better regulation and all that jazz, but does that even matter? will it affect anything? arent both of them so far in spec that the corsair's advantages over the tp are a waste of money? i guess all im asking is, what do the better components and abilities achieve? is it redundant buying the corsair over the antec? is it something stupid like the ripple from the antec will fustigate the capacitors in 20 years and the corsair in 20 years and a month? i hope im being clear with what im saying | ||
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