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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. |
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On August 14 2011 15:29 Chahta wrote:+ Show Spoiler +For a basic i3 2100 system, I'm uncertain of what motherboard to go with other than an H67 config. Its for my mom, so it will just be running the IGP HD 2000 (or should I step up to the 2105 for HD 3000?), and likely just a 500 GB - 1 TB HDD and 4gigs RAM. So basically no need to overclock (obviously...its a 2100), no SSD, no discreet gfx card. I could detail the parts but I'm assuming that's not necessary...I just know nothing of mobos, even as far as what brands to go with or features to look for. Would something akin to the MSI H67MA-E35 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel H67 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard work? Is there something better? Another brand? Thanks
Any H61 or H67 board will work. If you want SATA3 (for a future SSD maybe) than get H67, if not than a H61. If you want USB3 than get a board with USB3.
Premium brands would include Intel, ASUS, and Gigabyte. Value brands would include Asrock (sister company of ASUS), MSI, Biostar, Foxconn, and ECS. One of the most basic boards which is recommended often for budget builds would be the Asrock H61M-VS: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157241
No sense in paying premium for a HD3000 on a desktop. If it's for low-end gaming, you're much better off getting a low-end discrete card.
Yes you're going to need an additional SATA cable as C43 is a low-end board that provides only two SATA cables.
I believe the Corsair Nova 2 uses the same Sandforce controller as the Vertex 2 so reliability should be similar?
Kingston V100 uses some Toshiba controller and I think they're still using 32nm and not 25nm like the other SSDs. They had some firmware issue early on iirc but it should be all fixed by now.
My recommendation would be for the Samsung 470 or Crucial M4. Keep in mind if you buy the retail Samsung 470 variant than you'll get a SATA cable with it (you shouldn't since the premium is more than what you would pay for a SATA cable).
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Is there any NA site that delivers to Sweden without crazy shipping costs? Many components are just annoyingly cheaper right now than in Sweden...
Ah well, I guess I'll have to save up for a vacation in the US or something. 
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United States114 Posts
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Ive recently bought another monitor for a dual setup, now I've noticed that the gpu temp runs around the 50-60 fahrenheit when I use dual monitors for just browsing the web etc, right now I'm just using a single monitor and the temps running steadily at 36. Is this normal for running dual monitors?
my gpu is evga gtx560 ti with a 21.5 and 20 inch monitors 1920x1080 and 1600x900.
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5930 Posts
When monitor resolutions are different, nVidia's drivers shit their pants and run in permanent 3D mode - other words the video card doesn't downclock properly. Apparently nVidia thinks power efficiency is for chumps.
Here is a solution however its a workaround at best - read it carefully or your games will perform like shit. Its funny how people still keep suggesting how nVidia has significantly better drivers compared to AMD yet they're unable to solve such an elementary problem.
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5930 Posts
This is a more suitable power supply. You don't need 750W.
Unless you want the free USB drive, this 2x4GB memory kit is better. Memory doesn't need huge heatspreaders and memory skits aren't significantly different.
Is there a reason for choosing a Z68 board instead of a P67 board like this?
With such an expensive HD6850, you might as well get a HD6870 like this.
You seem to be forgetting a CPU cooler to go with your processor, you should probably get one if you wish to overclock heavily - if you only want to hit around 4Ghz, you might be able to get away with just the stock cooler. Anyway, there is a Corsair A50 for $20 after rebates.
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5930 Posts
Theoretically you could just use double sided sticky tape and stick your SSD anywhere where you might get airflow. There are no moving parts in SSDs remember so your don't necessarily need mounting brackets unless you want to install it how it should. If you want to install it properly, you will need that mounting bracket because I don't believe the M4 packaging comes with a bracket and the Antec 300 doesn't support 2.5" drives.
Any SATA cable should be fine. The one you picked is good enough.
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5930 Posts
A better buy would be a Pentium G620 ($80) + H61 motherboard ($60) unless they specifically need a lot of USB ports, SATA3, or anything better than stereo audio. Mum and dad aren't the types to do anything intensive and these processors will have significantly less power draw compared to the Phenom II.
If they do a lot of family video work, stick with the Phenom II and find yourself a cheaper AM3 motherboard. An AM3 board should not be that expensive.
If you want to get a sweet mATX case + PSU package for a few dollar less, Antec sells the NSK3480 which a cute solid 0.8mm steel chassis that comes with a preinstalled Earthwatts 380W PSU. The most important thing about this package is that it saves you carrying another box around...I guess.
Besides that, I don't see anything wrong with that build. There isn't much that can really go wrong with family computers like this.
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Right, I quoted the price before MIR. Thanks for your other suggestions.
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@deathrow
I won't comment on your actual computer build, but in my opinion you chose a tiny monitor for such a modern setup. When it comes to monitors, I'm of the opinion bigger is usually better (possible exception actually SC2 if you don't watch minimap well). Even if you don't go gigantic or 1080p, a 24" screen might add a lot. Maybe consider a reputable used dealer from Amazon if you really need to save on price.
Edit: if a 4:3 monitor is important to you, throw that out the window.
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On August 14 2011 19:58 buhhy wrote:
Speaking of which, why are these new SSD's more than twice as fast as before, with write rates that are equal to read rates?
I'll second Womwomwom's comments about the build, but as for the text I quoted...
Those are best-case sequential transfer speeds. The reason why they're twice as fast is that SandForce's 2nd generation controller was designed to be...about twice as fast as the previous generation. Real-world speeds aren't as high in general and depend on what flash is being used. The higher-end SandForce 2xxx drives are the fastest consumer SATA SSDs under realistic usage, but it's not by a large margin.
The SandForce controller does real-time data compression for all data coming through, so if what you're writing is like straight 0's (or something relatively simple with low entropy, like not compressed media files) and can be compressed really well, you can get those kinds of high transfer speeds. The quoted speeds only apply for that kind of data that compresses very well. If you've got a budget 60GB SandForce 2xxx drive like an OCZ Agility 3, write speeds are going to be nowhere resembling 500 MB/s on any kind of typical data. Maybe 1/5 of that, or slightly less depending? (Still pretty good though)
edit: Corsair Force 3 should be same as OCZ Agility 3, and not the Force GT (GT is like Vertex 3). See here:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/4604/the-sandforce-roundup-corsair-patriot-ocz-owc-memoright-ssds-compared/6
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On August 15 2011 00:57 skyR wrote:You quoted $250 which is price before promo and mail in rebate. $215 is price before mail in rebate. You should NOT be paying $250 for this bundle.
any suggestions?
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On August 15 2011 05:31 ballasdontcry wrote:Show nested quote +On August 15 2011 00:57 skyR wrote:On August 15 2011 00:46 ballasdontcry wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Right, I quoted the price before MIR. Thanks for your other suggestions. You quoted $250 which is price before promo and mail in rebate. $215 is price before mail in rebate. You should NOT be paying $250 for this bundle. any suggestions?
It's not really an amazing deal but not a bad one either, so it doesn't matter much either way. You save a few dollars over just buying parts separately. If you would have gotten the same things regardless, then congrats on saving a few bucks. An i3-2120, motherboard, and 4GB of RAM, is good for $215 if you're sure you won't regret not getting a different motherboard (say with SATA3 or USB3; though those things can be added with expansion cards) or 8GB of RAM.
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On August 15 2011 02:50 Myrmidon wrote:Those are best-case sequential transfer speeds. The reason why they're twice as fast is that SandForce's 2nd generation controller was designed to be...about twice as fast as the previous generation. Real-world speeds aren't as high in general and depend on what flash is being used. The higher-end SandForce 2xxx drives are the fastest consumer SATA SSDs under realistic usage, but it's not by a large margin. The SandForce controller does real-time data compression for all data coming through, so if what you're writing is like straight 0's (or something relatively simple with low entropy, like not compressed media files) and can be compressed really well, you can get those kinds of high transfer speeds. The quoted speeds only apply for that kind of data that compresses very well. If you've got a budget 60GB SandForce 2xxx drive like an OCZ Agility 3, write speeds are going to be nowhere resembling 500 MB/s on any kind of typical data. Maybe 1/5 of that, or slightly less depending? (Still pretty good though) edit: Corsair Force 3 should be same as OCZ Agility 3, and not the Force GT (GT is like Vertex 3). See here: http://www.anandtech.com/show/4604/the-sandforce-roundup-corsair-patriot-ocz-owc-memoright-ssds-compared/6
Interesting, after reading some more, it seems the Sandforce 2 drives have issues with stability. What would you suggest for a new 120GB SSD?
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EPT
