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Computer Build Resource Thread - Page 487

Forum Index > Tech Support
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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly.
Rachnar
Profile Joined October 2010
France1526 Posts
Last Edited: 2011-08-15 13:47:01
August 15 2011 13:45 GMT
#9721
@Cam27

buy from Topachat.com, best price on the net for france/belgium

For 813euros without an OS and overcloking ability

i5-2500k (+football manager 2011 which comes at free, you can sell it i guess, or offer it to someone^^)
ASRock P67 Pro
Coller Master Hyper 212 Plus
8gb RAM G.SKILL
HD6950 2gb (cheaper then te 1gb versions, don't ask me why)
60gb SSD OCZ Agility 3
classique burner
Antec 300 case
Antec High Current Gamer 520w

you may want to downgrade cpu + mobo for no overcloking, you would gain around 70 euros
cheaper GPU would be stupid, it's as cheap as a gtx560ti, but you may want to downgrade to hd6870 and gain 65 euros

here is the link to the build, http://www.topachat.com/pages/configomatic.php?z0=in10052417&z1=in10052463&z2=in10035999&z3=in10047201&z4=in10049613&z5=in10050745 &z6=in10039891&z7=inn522&z10=in10047007&z11=in10046679
You can have fun making your own computer, everything will be 100% compatible, it makes sure of that, so don't worry
"What if it's a triple DK ?" "Then we cry" "Prepare your handkerchief then ..."
Womwomwom
Profile Blog Joined September 2009
5930 Posts
August 15 2011 14:05 GMT
#9722
Just a suggestion but I strongly recommend the Zalman CNPS10X Performa over the Hyper 212+. The price difference on Topachat is 2 Euros and what you get is a significantly easier to use mounting system and a solid copper base.

Even if you are experienced at mounting CPU coolers, both things are worth the 2 Euro difference.
Myrmidon
Profile Blog Joined December 2004
United States9452 Posts
Last Edited: 2011-08-15 16:14:32
August 15 2011 14:42 GMT
#9723
On August 15 2011 16:28 gruff wrote:
Would a SEASONIC Sonic S12II-430 - 430 W (link below) be enough for for an overclocked i5-2500K with a gtx 560 Ti? Only standard components otherwise.

http://www.jmedata.se/PartDetail.aspx?q=p:2604527

How accurate are the power supply calculators out there? Like this one:
http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp

For a 560 Ti setup I get a minimum wattage psu of 440 W and 490 recommended. If you add the capacitor aging number like they recommend you get +60 W added to that.

Seems like I should be getting a higher psu in such a configuration but based on the recommendations in this thread, those numbers seems high.


They're not that accurate, though that one is the best. Obviously it just has lookup tables and calculates based on that. The Sandy Bridge figures are off because they're basing CPU power consumption off of the listed 95W TDP even though actual power consumption (with the integrated graphics not used) is under 65W for the i5-2500k before overclocking. This is inflating the overclocked result by like 45W maybe.

edit: had a typo. I mean power consumption with integrated graphics off, not on.

If you get a Seasonic S12II-430, it should have all Japanese capacitors, secondary side rated at 105C (primary side at 85C is okay). Capacitor aging is kind of an overrated effect, particularly for high-quality capacitors, which really should last several years at least.

S12II-430 is a very appropriate unit for that build, unless you're volt modding the GTX 560 Ti and running a stack of hard drives. I don't think that would count as "standard" though.

CX500 V2 is another option, though honestly the +12V wattage isn't that much higher and it uses capacitors that would be more susceptible to "aging," whatever that means. Antec High Current Gamer 520W is pretty much the same as the Seasonic (built by Seasonic, same design), just the 520W version, but I don't think that's necessary.
Th3Komo12
Profile Joined August 2011
United States6 Posts
August 15 2011 15:04 GMT
#9724
This is a laptop that I would use to play sc2 and some steam games
+ Show Spoiler +
Processor: 2nd generation Intel(R) Dual Core(TM) i5-2410M (2.3 GHz, 3MB L3 Cache) with Turbo Boost up to 2.9GHz
Graphics card: 2GB Radeon(TM) HD 6770M GDDR5 Graphics [HDMI, VGA] - For Dual Core Processors
Memory: 6GB DDR3 System Memory (2 Dimm)
Hard drive: 640GB 5400RPM Hard Drive with HP ProtectSmart Hard Drive Protection
Primary battery: 6-Cell Lithium-Ion Battery (standard) - Up to 5.5 hours of battery life +++
Display: 15.6" diagonal High Definition HP BrightView LED Display (1366x768)
Primary optical drive: Blu-ray player & SuperMulti DVD burner

I thought it was pretty good but what do you think
Rachnar
Profile Joined October 2010
France1526 Posts
August 15 2011 15:14 GMT
#9725
Good enough, for what price would you get it ?
"What if it's a triple DK ?" "Then we cry" "Prepare your handkerchief then ..."
Tachkilius
Profile Joined August 2010
United States55 Posts
August 15 2011 15:43 GMT
#9726
On August 15 2011 18:15 echO [W] wrote:
Show nested quote +
On August 15 2011 17:55 Tachkilius wrote:
So I am completely new to building a desktop but I want to build one(or at least order the parts) before I have to go back to school (~ a week from now) and these are the parts I noticed on newegg.com. I just wanted to run by all ye tech nerds before making my final decision, looking for things like if there are better deals, and if I am making a serious judgment error on any particular item. I have a monitor of 1920x1080 resolution which I'll hook up to this. The total of what I listed come out to be ~$730.

+ Show Spoiler +

CPU: AMD Phenom II X6 1090T Black Edition Thuban 3.2GHz Socket AM3 125W Six-Core Desktop Processor HDT90ZFBGRBOX $170 free shipping

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) Desktop Memory Model F3-14900CL9D-8GBXL (Model:F3-14900CL9D-8GBXL) $70 free shipping
or G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-4GBNQ $34 free shipping

HD: HITACHI Deskstar 7K3000 HDS723015BLA642 (0F12114) 1.5TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive (Model:0F12114) $65 -10, free shipping

CASE: COOLER MASTER Elite 330 RC-330-KKN1-GP Black SECC ATX Mid Tower Computer Case $40 + 8 shipping

Cooling unit: COOLER MASTER Hyper N 520 RR-920-N520-GP 92mm Sleeve CPU Cooler Intel Core i7 compatible (Model:RR-920-N520-GP) $34

Optical Drive: LITE-ON DVD Burner - Bulk Black SATA Model iHAS124-04 - OEM $19

PSU: Antec EarthWatts EA-650 GREEN 650W ATX12V v2.3 SLI Ready CrossFire Certified 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply (Model:EA-650 Green) $70

Motherboard: ASUS M4A88T-M LE AM3 AMD 880G HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard $80

GPU: ZOTAC GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) ZT-40408-10P Video Card $160

wireless adapter: Rosewill RNX-N180PCe PCI Express Revision 1.1 Wireless Adapter $20



Don't buy an AMD processor. Intel Sandy Bridge CPUs are much better.

Depending on where you live, if there is a MicroCenter nearby, you can pick up the 2500k for $180+tax, and if you decide to buy a motherboard there as well, you can save an additional $40 on the motherboard if you buy them together.

If you don't need to/want to overclock, you can get the cheaper i5-2400.

As for a motherboard, I am a pretty big fan of the Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3H (if you plan on overclocking), if not I would recommend the Gigabyte GA-P61-USB3-B3 (very much a budget board/not too much knowledge on P61/H67/H61). Primary reason as to why I am recommending these Gigabyte boards is that Gigabyte has come out and said that their boards will be Ivy Bridge compatible (which most will be), as well as PCI Express 3.0 compatible with a bios update which is pretty sweet.

You also don't need to spend $35 on a CPU HSF. Consider looking at the 212+ ($29 on Amazon and Newegg), that thing is potentially the best bang for the buck in terms of CPU HSFs. If you're not overclocking at all, you can go with the stock HSF. It will be good enough, and save you $30

As for RAM, you don't need DDR3 1866 speed ram, the differences between DDR3 1600 and 1866 is SLIM, more often than not 1-2FPS. You can even go DDR3 1333 RAM and be completely fine.

If you're willing to pay a few extra bucks, I would recommend that you get a case with room behind the motherboard tray for wiring, it'll help keep the wiring clutter in the case to a minimum and as a result, have better airflow and temperatures. I would look into either the Antec 100 (not ISK) case, or the Coolermaster 690 II Advanced.


So I ended up having some major change of heart and now favoring:
Core i5-2500K/P67 Gaming SuperCombo http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.644166&cm_sp=DIY_PC_Combos-_-644166-_-Combo

ZOTAC ZT-40408-10P GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

LITE-ON DVD Burner - Bulk 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM Black SATA Model iHAS124-04 - OEM

but I can't shake off the feelings I'm kinda paying a lot for the video card -- I know I am going for the higher resolution (1920x1080) and thus paying more as a result than some of other cards but... wanna know what you guys think.
Sizzln B1zzle
Profile Joined September 2010
United States34 Posts
August 15 2011 15:57 GMT
#9727
So I'm ready to prepare for next-gen games. Mainly looking at running SC2 on it's highest settings and I want to run Diablo 3 on High settings. If i want to spend around 1000$ would this be realistic? I was hoping someone could inform me on the parts I would need, I want to go with Intel i7 to start. Also if anyone knows a place I can have the computer built if i select the parts please let me know.


Regards
"What other people think of you is none of your business"
Rachnar
Profile Joined October 2010
France1526 Posts
August 15 2011 16:01 GMT
#9728
Well that video card is far from being enough for upcoming games for max settings, but will do for medium/high

paying less would only lower it's life duration for such a high resolution


@ sizzln yeah thats more then possible, but answer the questions in the OP entirely so we can help you better
"What if it's a triple DK ?" "Then we cry" "Prepare your handkerchief then ..."
Th3Komo12
Profile Joined August 2011
United States6 Posts
August 15 2011 16:28 GMT
#9729
@Rachnar 949.99 i think
Rachnar
Profile Joined October 2010
France1526 Posts
August 15 2011 16:48 GMT
#9730
yeah well thats like 250 too much for such a laptop

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834215119

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834246153

here are 2 far more reasonable ones, first one being theb est bng per buck you'll get
"What if it's a triple DK ?" "Then we cry" "Prepare your handkerchief then ..."
JingleHell
Profile Blog Joined March 2011
United States11308 Posts
August 15 2011 17:09 GMT
#9731
On August 15 2011 19:21 echO [W] wrote:
Show nested quote +
On August 15 2011 19:12 Womwomwom wrote:
Fuck Gigabyte out of principle. Can't believe they still use that Award BIOS.

Also PCIe 3.0 is pointless. Its the next SATA 6.0 on mechanical disks.

Just curious, what's wrong with the Award BIOS?

And as for PCIe 3.0. If you're going to spend money on a computer, and the price difference was minimal to none, why wouldn't you get a motherboard that could support PCIe 3.0? Maximize your bang for the buck. You wouldn't buy a motherboard today that only had SATA 3.0 if you could get SATA 6.0 for the same price, even if you were only planning on using mechanical drives.

Maybe you'll switch to SSDs in the future, maybe they'll come down in price.


Speaking as someone who has a crazy PC: Even running OCed SLI 460s, I literally gain nothing by OCing PCIE bus. (The joys of enthusiast boards, OC shit that doesn't make a difference.)

I could see theoretically if you were running quad GPU, faster PCIE could be useful, but right now, it's not. Generally, if something isn't at least vaguely useful when the motherboard it's on comes out, it's not going to be useful in the productive lifespan of the board.
echO [W]
Profile Joined July 2010
United States1495 Posts
August 15 2011 17:47 GMT
#9732
On August 16 2011 02:09 JingleHell wrote:
Show nested quote +
On August 15 2011 19:21 echO [W] wrote:
On August 15 2011 19:12 Womwomwom wrote:
Fuck Gigabyte out of principle. Can't believe they still use that Award BIOS.

Also PCIe 3.0 is pointless. Its the next SATA 6.0 on mechanical disks.

Just curious, what's wrong with the Award BIOS?

And as for PCIe 3.0. If you're going to spend money on a computer, and the price difference was minimal to none, why wouldn't you get a motherboard that could support PCIe 3.0? Maximize your bang for the buck. You wouldn't buy a motherboard today that only had SATA 3.0 if you could get SATA 6.0 for the same price, even if you were only planning on using mechanical drives.

Maybe you'll switch to SSDs in the future, maybe they'll come down in price.


Speaking as someone who has a crazy PC: Even running OCed SLI 460s, I literally gain nothing by OCing PCIE bus. (The joys of enthusiast boards, OC shit that doesn't make a difference.)

I could see theoretically if you were running quad GPU, faster PCIE could be useful, but right now, it's not. Generally, if something isn't at least vaguely useful when the motherboard it's on comes out, it's not going to be useful in the productive lifespan of the board.

Would PCIe 3.0, coupled with Ivy extend the productive lifespan of the board?
"Or a school bus over a bunch of kids" - Tasteless --- “A man's errors are his portals of discovery.” - James Joyce
Myrmidon
Profile Blog Joined December 2004
United States9452 Posts
August 15 2011 17:55 GMT
#9733
Current top graphics cards are just barely limited on PCIe 1.x (equivalently 8x lanes PCIe 2.x). If you plan on running single midrange performance graphics cards, it will be a while before it will be noticeably slower on PCIe 2.x as opposed to 3.x.

btw it really doesn't take that long to start loading the OS on a modern Gigabyte board, at least what I've seen with a P67A-UD3. I think it was maybe several seconds max? I forget. This isn't exactly a ringing endorsement of Award BIOS though lol.
gruff
Profile Joined September 2010
Sweden2276 Posts
Last Edited: 2011-08-15 18:56:17
August 15 2011 18:55 GMT
#9734
On August 15 2011 23:42 Myrmidon wrote:
Show nested quote +
On August 15 2011 16:28 gruff wrote:
Would a SEASONIC Sonic S12II-430 - 430 W (link below) be enough for for an overclocked i5-2500K with a gtx 560 Ti? Only standard components otherwise.

http://www.jmedata.se/PartDetail.aspx?q=p:2604527

How accurate are the power supply calculators out there? Like this one:
http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp

For a 560 Ti setup I get a minimum wattage psu of 440 W and 490 recommended. If you add the capacitor aging number like they recommend you get +60 W added to that.

Seems like I should be getting a higher psu in such a configuration but based on the recommendations in this thread, those numbers seems high.


They're not that accurate, though that one is the best. Obviously it just has lookup tables and calculates based on that. The Sandy Bridge figures are off because they're basing CPU power consumption off of the listed 95W TDP even though actual power consumption (with the integrated graphics not used) is under 65W for the i5-2500k before overclocking. This is inflating the overclocked result by like 45W maybe.

edit: had a typo. I mean power consumption with integrated graphics off, not on.

If you get a Seasonic S12II-430, it should have all Japanese capacitors, secondary side rated at 105C (primary side at 85C is okay). Capacitor aging is kind of an overrated effect, particularly for high-quality capacitors, which really should last several years at least.

S12II-430 is a very appropriate unit for that build, unless you're volt modding the GTX 560 Ti and running a stack of hard drives. I don't think that would count as "standard" though.

CX500 V2 is another option, though honestly the +12V wattage isn't that much higher and it uses capacitors that would be more susceptible to "aging," whatever that means. Antec High Current Gamer 520W is pretty much the same as the Seasonic (built by Seasonic, same design), just the 520W version, but I don't think that's necessary.


Thanks for the answer and the advice.

You are right in your assumptions btw, by standard I meant I have the normal amount of units (2 hdd, 1 optical etc) and no messing with the gpu and such.
JingleHell
Profile Blog Joined March 2011
United States11308 Posts
Last Edited: 2011-08-15 20:17:48
August 15 2011 20:08 GMT
#9735
On August 16 2011 02:47 echO [W] wrote:
Show nested quote +
On August 16 2011 02:09 JingleHell wrote:
On August 15 2011 19:21 echO [W] wrote:
On August 15 2011 19:12 Womwomwom wrote:
Fuck Gigabyte out of principle. Can't believe they still use that Award BIOS.

Also PCIe 3.0 is pointless. Its the next SATA 6.0 on mechanical disks.

Just curious, what's wrong with the Award BIOS?

And as for PCIe 3.0. If you're going to spend money on a computer, and the price difference was minimal to none, why wouldn't you get a motherboard that could support PCIe 3.0? Maximize your bang for the buck. You wouldn't buy a motherboard today that only had SATA 3.0 if you could get SATA 6.0 for the same price, even if you were only planning on using mechanical drives.

Maybe you'll switch to SSDs in the future, maybe they'll come down in price.


Speaking as someone who has a crazy PC: Even running OCed SLI 460s, I literally gain nothing by OCing PCIE bus. (The joys of enthusiast boards, OC shit that doesn't make a difference.)

I could see theoretically if you were running quad GPU, faster PCIE could be useful, but right now, it's not. Generally, if something isn't at least vaguely useful when the motherboard it's on comes out, it's not going to be useful in the productive lifespan of the board.

Would PCIe 3.0, coupled with Ivy extend the productive lifespan of the board?


Even accounting for Ivy Bridge, I doubt that you'll need PCIE3.0 before Ivy is past useful lifespan unless you're competing for highscores at futuremark.com or EVGA Mods Rigs.

Automata
Profile Joined March 2011
393 Posts
August 15 2011 20:45 GMT
#9736
So I'm looking to replace my zotac gtx460 right now. I need something that runs quiet and cool and narrowed my search to gtx560 ti. Can anyone suggest a good make for it? If you guys have other suggestions to another graphic card, that will be cool too. Thanks.
JingleHell
Profile Blog Joined March 2011
United States11308 Posts
Last Edited: 2011-08-15 20:49:52
August 15 2011 20:47 GMT
#9737
On August 16 2011 05:45 Automata wrote:
So I'm looking to replace my zotac gtx460 right now. I need something that runs quiet and cool and narrowed my search to gtx560 ti. Can anyone suggest a good make for it? If you guys have other suggestions to another graphic card, that will be cool too. Thanks.


Knowing what you want to do with it would help. Why would you go from a 460 to a 560Ti though?

It's a very moderate sort of upgrade, really, and at the price, barely seems worth it, unless you can't OC your 460 any higher and need better performance. But if you need significantly more power, it doesn't seem like enough of an upgrade to cut the mustard.
Automata
Profile Joined March 2011
393 Posts
August 15 2011 21:01 GMT
#9738
On August 16 2011 05:47 JingleHell wrote:
Show nested quote +
On August 16 2011 05:45 Automata wrote:
So I'm looking to replace my zotac gtx460 right now. I need something that runs quiet and cool and narrowed my search to gtx560 ti. Can anyone suggest a good make for it? If you guys have other suggestions to another graphic card, that will be cool too. Thanks.


Knowing what you want to do with it would help. Why would you go from a 460 to a 560Ti though?

It's a very moderate sort of upgrade, really, and at the price, barely seems worth it, unless you can't OC your 460 any higher and need better performance. But if you need significantly more power, it doesn't seem like enough of an upgrade to cut the mustard.


I need a graphic card to play SC2, hopefully be able to run BF3 and Skyrim in the future. There is no way to OC my 460 any higher. Right now, my 460 idles at 60c, under load temps at 99c. So my thinking is more like a single GPU replacement.

ATM, my graphic card poops out and just shuts down if I use it to play an extended period of time.
JingleHell
Profile Blog Joined March 2011
United States11308 Posts
Last Edited: 2011-08-15 21:10:58
August 15 2011 21:09 GMT
#9739
Hmmm, fair enough, although it could be either dust or bad airflow, a decently binned 460 should be able to OC to at least 800-820Mhz, which is more than enough to be bottlenecked in CPU intense games.

A 560 Ti is still an upgrade, yes, but it's not as huge as it could be unless you got shit luck on your 460 and ended up with one that can't OC worth a damn. For cool and quiet, either an MSI Twin Frozr model or this non-reference EVGA card would be good choices.

Any similar non-reference cooler should be decent as well. MSI Twin Frozr just happens to have a good reputation, and I happen to personally love EVGA, so those are the first two that jump to mind.
Automata
Profile Joined March 2011
393 Posts
August 15 2011 21:20 GMT
#9740
On August 16 2011 06:09 JingleHell wrote:
Hmmm, fair enough, although it could be either dust or bad airflow, a decently binned 460 should be able to OC to at least 800-820Mhz, which is more than enough to be bottlenecked in CPU intense games.

A 560 Ti is still an upgrade, yes, but it's not as huge as it could be unless you got shit luck on your 460 and ended up with one that can't OC worth a damn. For cool and quiet, either an MSI Twin Frozr model or this non-reference EVGA card would be good choices.

Any similar non-reference cooler should be decent as well. MSI Twin Frozr just happens to have a good reputation, and I happen to personally love EVGA, so those are the first two that jump to mind.


What I'm going to do for now is get a new case, since I upgraded all my parts last november except my case. My main problem is still high temps and I'm guessing this is the cheapest way to fix it is to try to make it cooler. Thanks for your suggestions btw. They're great help.
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