EPTOn August 11 2011 10:32 Gattaca.usa wrote:
Is it wise to purchase parts from EBAY? like a i5 2500k?
Is it wise to purchase parts from EBAY? like a i5 2500k?
eeeh, I think you are better off buying from newegg, microcenter, amazon or nix.
Computer Build Resource Thread - Page 473
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spybreak
United States684 Posts
eeeh, I think you are better off buying from newegg, microcenter, amazon or nix. | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On August 11 2011 10:32 Gattaca.usa wrote: Is it wise to purchase parts from EBAY? like a i5 2500k? If you're buying new in box from a highly rated seller, I don't see why not. Used computer parts, unless they're free, are the tech version of a used condom. | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
On August 11 2011 09:53 Gattaca.usa wrote: Edit: I have an old Antec PSU that is 550w and modular that I got 5 years ago(rofl so long).... how do i check to see if it works? would it be wise using it? Which model? Actually, if it's a 550W modular unit that old, it's probably not the not-yet-released High Current Gamer Plus or the couple-years-old TruePower New. It's probably the NeoHE (NeoPower). It's an old Seasonic-built unit: pretty good but not the best for the time. Depending on what you mean by "works" you may or may not be able to check it. You can plug it into say a fan (only) and jump-start it by shorting together the green wire (power on signal) with any black wire (ground) on the 24-pin motherboard connector. If the fan spins up, that means the power supply will turn on. To guarantee it works properly, you would need a decent oscilloscope and maybe load testing equipment like the good reviewers have. | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On August 11 2011 10:37 Myrmidon wrote: Which model? Actually, if it's a 550W modular unit that old, it's probably not the not-yet-released High Current Gamer Plus or the couple-years-old TruePower New. It's probably the NeoHE (NeoPower). It's an old Seasonic-built unit: pretty good but not the best for the time. Depending on what you mean by "works" you may or may not be able to check it. You can plug it into say a fan (only) and jump-start it by shorting together the green wire (power on signal) with any black wire (ground) on the 24-pin motherboard connector. If the fan spins up, that means the power supply will turn on. To guarantee it works properly, you would need a decent oscilloscope and maybe load testing equipment like the good reviewers have. And buying that stuff costs way more than buying a new PSU. | ||
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LazyMacro
976 Posts
On August 11 2011 09:50 skyR wrote: Case is personal preference. Any ATX case will work for such a configuration. The difference between micro ATX and ATX is the amount of connectivity and phases. The core i5 2500k is meant to be overclocked. If your plans are now to overclock than you would want an aftermarket heatsink and a P67 or Z68 motherboard. If you want a stronger graphics card than you're free to do so. An SSD is just a faster HDD. You just install the operating system on it and use it as you would with a regular HDD (except don't defrag it). Thanks again. So there's really no reason to get the 2500K over the 2400 since I don't plan on overclocking. So if I understand correctly, I should be putting my OS, SC2, BF3, etc. on the SSD and use the HDD more for storage of files. WIth that build, running games for a few years should be no problem, right? | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
Yes, you put the operating system and most used applications on the SSD while using the HDD for documents, media, and less used applications. Yes, it should be able to handle most games in the upcoming years on reasonably high settings at 1080p. | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
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Gattaca.usa
131 Posts
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LazyMacro
976 Posts
On August 11 2011 10:44 skyR wrote: Yes, there's no reason to get the core i5 2500k if you have no intention to overclock. You could get the regular core i5 2500 if you really wanted that extra 300MHz over the core i5 2400. Difference is negligible. Yes, you put the operating system and most used applications on the SSD while using the HDD for documents, media, and less used applications. Yes, it should be able to handle most games in the upcoming years on reasonably high settings at 1080p. Thanks yet again. I'm probably going to buy almost those exact items you listed probably tonight. Aside from the case, the only thing I might change is the memory because of brand loyalty. Both Cooler Master and Kingston HyperX sponsor the New England StarCraft 2 League, and so I think it'd be cool to support them back by buying a case and memory, respectively. Oh, one last question: The PSU is adequate for all of those parts? For some reason I thought I'd need more power. | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On August 11 2011 11:23 LazyMacro wrote: Thanks yet again. I'm probably going to buy almost those exact items you listed probably tonight. Aside from the case, the only thing I might change is the memory because of brand loyalty. Both Cooler Master and Kingston HyperX sponsor the New England StarCraft 2 League, and so I think it'd be cool to support them back by buying a case and memory, respectively. Oh, one last question: The PSU is adequate for all of those parts? For some reason I thought I'd need more power. To be cynical about it, they only support esports to engender that exact reaction, so paying more for it is a bit silly. That said, I pay more for EVGA stuff, but that's got to do with their excellent warranty and support. But then, Cooler Master at least has decent cases, if you don't mind the weight and look. I personally think most of them are either too cheap 60's scifi cover art looking, or I don't like the colors used. But then, I'm using a case with an incredibly unpopular aesthetic. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
On August 11 2011 11:23 LazyMacro wrote: Thanks yet again. I'm probably going to buy almost those exact items you listed probably tonight. Aside from the case, the only thing I might change is the memory because of brand loyalty. Both Cooler Master and Kingston HyperX sponsor the New England StarCraft 2 League, and so I think it'd be cool to support them back by buying a case and memory, respectively. Oh, one last question: The PSU is adequate for all of those parts? For some reason I thought I'd need more power. Yes the XFX Core Edition Pro 450 provides enough power for such a configuration. The core i5 2400 uses less than 50w under a gaming load and the gtx 560 ti uses around 160w under a gaming load. Entire configuration will barely ever exceed 300w. | ||
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Hierarch
United States2197 Posts
Between 750-1000 usd obviously would like to spend a lower amount if possible, but don't want to sacrifice too much performance for cost. I have never built a computer before, I don't know how hard it is or if the hassle is worth the money you save and the custimizability over a premade. I like the idea of a project and the ability to custimize it to what I want and of course saving some money. What is my resolution? 1920 x 1080, this is my monitor: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236051 What am I using it for? Starcraft 2 The Witcher 2 Skyrim Diablo 3 Streaming HD netflix Watching Starcraft 2 streams in 1080 Watching Blue ray dvd's Typing papers Preparing presentations music What is my upgrade cycle? Looking for it to last 3-4 years before I upgrade (hopefully) When do I plan on building it? Hopefully in 30-40 days, depending on school expenses Do you plan on overclocking? I don't even know how to overclock or if it's worth it. Any and all insight on this subject is most appreciated Do you need an operating system No I do not Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire? I don't even know what SLI or crossfire is or if it's worth it. Any and all insight on this subject is most appreciated Where are you buying your parts from? I'm from the US, so mostly from newegg Any and all help means a great deal to me, thanks in advance to the people that help me, much ♥ | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
But what you're looking at is roughly: Core i5-2400 - $190 H61/H67 motherboard - $60-90 depending on desired features like USB3 support, more slots, etc. Graphics card - say $155 for a HD 6850 or $175 for a HD 6870 or up to about $220 for a GTX 560 Ti, depending on what you want DDR3 RAM - $50 or so for 2x4GB is probably a good idea since this is cheap now Hard drive - $40-60 SSD (optional) - $120 or so for 64GB; other sizes also reasonable Optical drive - $20 Case - $40+ depending on what you want (about $60 gets you good features and decent build quality) Power supply - $40-55 depending on wattage/reliability That should let you do everything you need to do and play on top graphics settings for those games. I think. I don't keep up with graphics requirements for most other games. | ||
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Hierarch
United States2197 Posts
On August 11 2011 14:52 Myrmidon wrote: Well, come back when you're going to build, since prices even on newegg tend to shift by a month. But what you're looking at is roughly: Core i5-2400 - $190 H61/H67 motherboard - $60-90 depending on desired features like USB3 support, more slots, etc. Graphics card - say $155 for a HD 6850 or $175 for a HD 6870 or up to about $220 for a GTX 560 Ti, depending on what you want DDR3 RAM - $50 or so for 2x4GB is probably a good idea since this is cheap now Hard drive - $40-60 SSD (optional) - $120 or so for 64GB; other sizes also reasonable Optical drive - $20 Case - $40+ depending on what you want (about $60 gets you good features and decent build quality) Power supply - $40-55 depending on wattage/reliability That should let you do everything you need to do and play on top graphics settings for those games. I think. I don't keep up with graphics requirements for most other games. What am I looking for in a power supply? Is SSD worth using or should I just stick with HDD? What features should I look for in a case? What's the difference between the H61/H67 motherboards? Also could you answer this question? I have never built a computer before, I don't know how hard it is or if the hassle is worth the money you save and the custimizability over a premade. I like the idea of a project and the ability to custimize it to what I want and of course saving some money. Those are the main questions I have. Thanks for the info though I'm planning my build out and budgeting it in with my school expenses, so that's why I'm beginning plans now. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
H67 provides SATA3, H61 does not. Some H61 motherboards will use another chipset to provide SATA3. Whether a SSD is worth it or not is subjective, most will say it is. Once you go SSD, you'll never go back. With a $1000 budget, there's not much to spend money on besides an SSD if you won't be overclocking. What features you want in the case is up to you. Sound dampening? LEDs? Front panel USB3? Aluminum? Tool-less installation? A lot of fans? Window? Building is easy, there are several videos detailing the entire process. There are many advantages to building your own instead of getting a prebuilt. Some of those advantages include but not limited to a much longer warranty on components, much better post-sale support, much better quality components, much better optimized build, and not but not least it's going to be less expensive. + Show Spoiler + | ||
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Hierarch
United States2197 Posts
On August 11 2011 15:13 skyR wrote: For power supply, you're looking at the manufacturer (build quality) and the amperage on the 12v rail. The two sort of go hand in hand. A good build quality will result in sufficient amperage on the 12v rail. Good brands include but not limited to XFX, Antec, Corsair, Seasonic, etc. If you don't want to do research on specific models, you can just pick one from the mentioned brands and they're either be mediocre or very good. H67 provides SATA3, H61 does not. Some H61 motherboards will use another chipset to provide SATA3. Whether a SSD is worth it or not is subjective, most will say it is. Once you go SSD, you'll never go back. With a $1000 budget, there's not much to spend money on besides an SSD if you won't be overclocking. What features you want in the case is up to you. Sound dampening? LEDs? Front panel USB3? Aluminum? Tool-less installation? A lot of fans? Window? Building is easy, there are several videos detailing the entire process. There are many advantages to building your own instead of getting a prebuilt. Some of those advantages include but not limited to a much longer warranty on components, much better post-sale support, much better quality components, much better optimized build, and not but not least it's going to be less expensive. + Show Spoiler + http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zcR8Fl8cwZk Can you explain what SATA3 is and whether you prefer H61 or H67? Also could I get a recommendation on a very good power supply? I've heard about usb 3.0 but don't know the advantages over usb 2.0? What would I use my SSD for, and why would it be so much better at that? Would I mix an SDD with an HDD, if so how would that work when storing data? What is tool-less installation? Also, does RAM "brand" matter? Thanks again in advance for whomever answers. | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
A very good power supply can go up to $150 or so, unless you need something with huge wattage (which you don't). Something reasonable, with quality components and design, that's overkill for most builds here, is the XFX Core 450W for $55. USB3 is about 10 times faster than USB2, so that's the main difference. They're all compatible but if you use a USB3 device on a USB2 port, it will be limited to USB2 speeds. Right now even mechanical hard drives have data rates far exceeding USB2. If you ever want to connect a new external hard drive, external video capture device, or something else that needs a high data rate (read: like not keyboard or mouse or anything like that), then USB3 would be useful. SSD functionally just is another drive you access and store data on. It's just a lot more expensive and a lot faster for certain things, so you would put things like the operating system and commonly-used programs and data on the SSD, and then media files and less-accessed stuff on any supplemental mechanical storage. Certain (most?) cases have hard drive, optical drive, and/or expansion slot mounting mechanisms that can be adjusted by hand without a screwdriver. Hence toolless. Personally I think it's kind of superfluous unless you're changing stuff all the time. RAM brand doesn't really matter mostly. All the different brands just source chips from the same few manufacturers. They just may have different quality control, control over purchases, and so on. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
Very good power supplies include but not limited to Seasonic X, Corsair AX, Kingwin Lazer Gold, XFX Black Edition, Lepa G, and Enermax 87+. But this is probably not what you're asking since why would a novice even purchase one of these? A good one for someone like you would be the XFX Core Edition 450: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207012 Before you ask, yes this provides enough power for the majority of configurations. Power supply recommendations made by manufacturers listed on the box is for safety precautions (accounting for those who have low quality power supplies found in prebuilts or those who purchase $20 500w power supplies (lol)). USB3 is faster than USB2, if you need to ask than you don't need it. A SSD is used to store your operating system and primary software that they can be accessed faster. It's better because it's using flash instead of spinning platters. Unless you plan on buying a 1TB SSD which probably doesn't even exist and cost upwards of $10,000. Yes you are suppose to use a SSD and HDD in combination with each other, using the SSD to store the operating system and primary software and using a HDD to store media, documents, secondary software, etc. Tool-less installation is self-explanatory. There are no tools required for installation. Instead of needing to use a screwdriver to screw in a component, the case would provide you with thumbscrews or a locking / clamping system instead. RAM brand doesn't really matter. The only difference between the various brands are quality control and post-sale support. Most of the memory is manufactured by Samsung, Hynix, Micron, etc. | ||
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Hierarch
United States2197 Posts
What size SSD would you recommend, and which brand? What is water cooling? How many fans/size fans should I use for optimal cooling for a machine I would build? Would you guys recommend the H67 then over the H61 for the SATA 3 if I get a SDD? Thanks again, you guys don't know how much this means to me, saved me a ton of trouble, time and probably money. Much love and appreciation. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
Water cooling is using water to cool your components. It's not necessary for a novice such as yourself and even for most of the experienced builders. You don't need to worry about cooling if you aren't overclocking. Modern cases and components provide more than enough airflow / cooling. It's not a straight forward answer as yes get a H67 over a H61 if you're getting a SSD. There are other factors to consider whether you want a full size ATX board, USB3, certain connectivity, certain brand preference, and what not. There are some H61 boards that use an external chipset for SATA3 such as this one (good value btw): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157236 | ||
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