|
When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. |
On December 20 2012 04:40 rogenos wrote:+ Show Spoiler +First of all, thanks for the quick answer guys, you're awesome. Including a new monitor would be great. Hate my old one. Everything up to 1k € is totally fine for me. edit: if it's less, then that's great - no need to add better stuff just to get up to 1k. Just a simple build that is sufficient for me, always glad when I can save money and still get what I want. 
I think ordering from one store in Germany may be the best, because they probably have better selection and prices. Shipping is usually some 20 euros or so to Austria, reasonably fast, and of course there is no language issue.
Core i5-3470 - 168€
AsRock B75 Pro3-M - 60€
Crucial 2 x 4GB 1600MHz - 32€
Powercolor PCS+ HD 7870 - 196€
Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB - 50€
LiteOn CD / DVD burner - 16€
Super Flower Golden Green 450W - 61€
BitFenix Shinobi (front USB3 vers.) - 50€
Dell Ultrasharp U2312HM - 180€
If you don't like matte screens with heavy antiglare coating, there are options other than the Ultrasharp. Check here for some. If you need more disk space, get something else, as long as it's still a 7200 rpm model. If you want low noise, you probably want a different graphics card model, maybe different case, possibly a couple other changes.
|
Hello, I'm building a new computer, would be nice if I could get some advice on this. it will be running on 1920*1080. Most probably wont be overclocked or something.
This was my thoughts so far.
i3-2100
ASUS p8h61 pro, i61 (1155)
2x corsair 4gb ddr3 1333 mhz
gtx 560
antec 520w PS
1 TB WD Caviar black, 64mb, 7200rpm
case-still deciding.
Any info is welcome, and maybe a recommendation for a smaller SSD.
Thanks
|
On December 20 2012 06:30 Aqualoung wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Hello, I'm building a new computer, would be nice if I could get some advice on this. it will be running on 1920*1080. Most probably wont be overclocked or something.
This was my thoughts so far.
i3-2100
ASUS p8h61 pro, i61 (1155)
2x corsair 4gb ddr3 1333 mhz
gtx 560
antec 520w PS
1 TB WD Caviar black, 64mb, 7200rpm
case-still deciding.
Any info is welcome, and maybe a recommendation for a smaller SSD.
Thanks
It's okay depending on pricing and availability to you.
P8H61 Pro is old and was pretty expensive for a H61 board. A B75 board may be a better choice.
GTX 560 is also old and depending on price, a GTX 650 Ti or 7850 may be better.
The performance difference between a Caviar Black and Blue are very minimal so you may want to save some money and get the Blue instead if the three extra years of warranty on the Black is not a big deal to you.
There might be something better than the Antec High Current 520 or Neo Eco 520. (There is definitely something better on newegg).
For SSDs, Samsung 840, Samsung 830, Crucial M4, Plextor M5S.
|
|
|
The VG23AH is actually IPS but it's really good; it's also semi-glossy/semi-matte (so not completely glossy) so glare shouldn't be an issue in mild to moderate lighting. It's on the TL monitor thread list.
I think you're confusing it with the VG236H, which is the glossy 120Hz TN. (this is on the TL monitor thread list also).
|
On December 20 2012 06:36 skyR wrote:+ Show Spoiler +On December 20 2012 06:30 Aqualoung wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Hello, I'm building a new computer, would be nice if I could get some advice on this. it will be running on 1920*1080. Most probably wont be overclocked or something.
This was my thoughts so far.
i3-2100
ASUS p8h61 pro, i61 (1155)
2x corsair 4gb ddr3 1333 mhz
gtx 560
antec 520w PS
1 TB WD Caviar black, 64mb, 7200rpm
case-still deciding.
Any info is welcome, and maybe a recommendation for a smaller SSD.
Thanks It's okay depending on pricing and availability to you. P8H61 Pro is old and was pretty expensive for a H61 board. A B75 board may be a better choice. GTX 560 is also old and depending on price, a GTX 650 Ti or 7850 may be better. The performance difference between a Caviar Black and Blue are very minimal so you may want to save some money and get the Blue instead if the three extra years of warranty on the Black is not a big deal to you. There might be something better than the Antec High Current 520 or Neo Eco 520. (There is definitely something better on newegg). For SSDs, Samsung 840, Samsung 830, Crucial M4, Plextor M5S.
Thx for help. I've replaced h61 with B75, gtx 560 with GTX 650 Ti (1GB if i get an SSD, 2GB if i dont). I'm still thinking about the Caviar Black/Blue.
What am I looking with the power supply, more power than 520w ?
Thx for help
|
On December 20 2012 06:50 Wabbit wrote:
The VG23AH is actually IPS but it's really good; it's also semi-glossy/semi-matte (so not completely glossy) so glare shouldn't be an issue in mild to moderate lighting. It's on the TL monitor thread list.
I think you're confusing it with the VG236H, which is the glossy 120Hz TN. (this is on the TL monitor thread list also).
You're right! I am confusing the two. I did a search for the VG236H and apparently did not check the results closely enough. Checking again the VG236H is only available used in germany, for 270euros on amazon. Which makes it less attractive.
|
I think Asus's naming scheme confuses everybody.
If quiet, temperatures, and quality for video cards are concerns, I think Asus DirectCU Nvidia cards this generation are the way to go. I was considering putting that in the build, but I just left it as a note at the bottom. SPCR has some interesting data / ideas / picture regarding that. Techpowerup's data here and here pretty much backs that up. HDT coolers strike again!
On December 20 2012 07:03 Aqualoung wrote:Show nested quote +On December 20 2012 06:36 skyR wrote:+ Show Spoiler +On December 20 2012 06:30 Aqualoung wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Hello, I'm building a new computer, would be nice if I could get some advice on this. it will be running on 1920*1080. Most probably wont be overclocked or something.
This was my thoughts so far.
i3-2100
ASUS p8h61 pro, i61 (1155)
2x corsair 4gb ddr3 1333 mhz
gtx 560
antec 520w PS
1 TB WD Caviar black, 64mb, 7200rpm
case-still deciding.
Any info is welcome, and maybe a recommendation for a smaller SSD.
Thanks It's okay depending on pricing and availability to you. P8H61 Pro is old and was pretty expensive for a H61 board. A B75 board may be a better choice. GTX 560 is also old and depending on price, a GTX 650 Ti or 7850 may be better. The performance difference between a Caviar Black and Blue are very minimal so you may want to save some money and get the Blue instead if the three extra years of warranty on the Black is not a big deal to you. There might be something better than the Antec High Current 520 or Neo Eco 520. (There is definitely something better on newegg). For SSDs, Samsung 840, Samsung 830, Crucial M4, Plextor M5S. Thx for help. I've replaced h61 with B75, gtx 560 with GTX 650 Ti (1GB if i get an SSD, 2GB if i dont). I'm still thinking about the Caviar Black/Blue. What am I looking with the power supply, more power than 520w ? Thx for help
Different power supply model maybe. Those Antec models are decent, but some others are superior in some ways (maybe a more advanced circuit design, even better components, quieter fan / fan control, possibly lower price, etc.). It's better for you to list what's available and at what prices, because it's hard to say otherwise.
Warning: DO NOT GET 2GB GTX 650 Ti. It's literally no better for pretty much anything you do than the 1GB version because 1GB VRAM is already plenty for most games at most resolutions, particularly without massive amounts of AA applied (which the GTX 650 Ti couldn't handle anyway).
|
On December 20 2012 07:03 Aqualoung wrote:+ Show Spoiler +On December 20 2012 06:36 skyR wrote:+ Show Spoiler +On December 20 2012 06:30 Aqualoung wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Hello, I'm building a new computer, would be nice if I could get some advice on this. it will be running on 1920*1080. Most probably wont be overclocked or something.
This was my thoughts so far.
i3-2100
ASUS p8h61 pro, i61 (1155)
2x corsair 4gb ddr3 1333 mhz
gtx 560
antec 520w PS
1 TB WD Caviar black, 64mb, 7200rpm
case-still deciding.
Any info is welcome, and maybe a recommendation for a smaller SSD.
Thanks It's okay depending on pricing and availability to you. P8H61 Pro is old and was pretty expensive for a H61 board. A B75 board may be a better choice. GTX 560 is also old and depending on price, a GTX 650 Ti or 7850 may be better. The performance difference between a Caviar Black and Blue are very minimal so you may want to save some money and get the Blue instead if the three extra years of warranty on the Black is not a big deal to you. There might be something better than the Antec High Current 520 or Neo Eco 520. (There is definitely something better on newegg). For SSDs, Samsung 840, Samsung 830, Crucial M4, Plextor M5S. Thx for help. I've replaced h61 with B75, gtx 560 with GTX 650 Ti (1GB if i get an SSD, 2GB if i dont). I'm still thinking about the Caviar Black/Blue. What am I looking with the power supply, more power than 520w ? Thx for help
No you don't need more than 500w. For such a build, I'd suggest getting a 400w unit. Depending on where you're from, there may be better or similar options that are less expensive than the High Current or Neo Eco.
|
On December 20 2012 07:03 Aqualoung wrote:Show nested quote +On December 20 2012 06:36 skyR wrote:+ Show Spoiler +On December 20 2012 06:30 Aqualoung wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Hello, I'm building a new computer, would be nice if I could get some advice on this. it will be running on 1920*1080. Most probably wont be overclocked or something.
This was my thoughts so far.
i3-2100
ASUS p8h61 pro, i61 (1155)
2x corsair 4gb ddr3 1333 mhz
gtx 560
antec 520w PS
1 TB WD Caviar black, 64mb, 7200rpm
case-still deciding.
Any info is welcome, and maybe a recommendation for a smaller SSD.
Thanks It's okay depending on pricing and availability to you. P8H61 Pro is old and was pretty expensive for a H61 board. A B75 board may be a better choice. GTX 560 is also old and depending on price, a GTX 650 Ti or 7850 may be better. The performance difference between a Caviar Black and Blue are very minimal so you may want to save some money and get the Blue instead if the three extra years of warranty on the Black is not a big deal to you. There might be something better than the Antec High Current 520 or Neo Eco 520. (There is definitely something better on newegg). For SSDs, Samsung 840, Samsung 830, Crucial M4, Plextor M5S. Thx for help. I've replaced h61 with B75, gtx 560 with GTX 650 Ti (1GB if i get an SSD, 2GB if i dont). I'm still thinking about the Caviar Black/Blue. What am I looking with the power supply, more power than 520w ? Thx for help
GTX 560 is a lot more powerful than the GTX 650 Ti. Also unless your getting a flagship GPU (GTX 680 / HD 7970) 1GB is enough. You do not need more than 500w for ANY Single GPU Computer.
http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/543?vs=680
|
get the 1gb you'll see no difference between the two
getting the black over the blue is pretty useless as Skyr already pointed out
For the PSU you can get a relativly cheap one (cheap, not bad), like the Antec earthwatts 380D, Corsair CX430, etc...
wattage is relative, you can't compare the wattage of a "good" PSU vs a "bad" PSU, you have to check the 12v rail
edit : triple ninja'd TT
|
@skyr oh, ok I will find something cheaper then, maybe one of the one Rachnar said.
@iTzSnypah yea i figured there was a reason GTX 560 is more expensive than 650 Ti
Can someone else confirm gtx 560 > 650 ti?
@Myrmidon thx, I will list the power supply models tomorow, its kinda late here and some of the store web sites are down anyway.
|
On December 20 2012 07:13 iTzSnypah wrote:Show nested quote +On December 20 2012 07:03 Aqualoung wrote:On December 20 2012 06:36 skyR wrote:+ Show Spoiler +On December 20 2012 06:30 Aqualoung wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Hello, I'm building a new computer, would be nice if I could get some advice on this. it will be running on 1920*1080. Most probably wont be overclocked or something.
This was my thoughts so far.
i3-2100
ASUS p8h61 pro, i61 (1155)
2x corsair 4gb ddr3 1333 mhz
gtx 560
antec 520w PS
1 TB WD Caviar black, 64mb, 7200rpm
case-still deciding.
Any info is welcome, and maybe a recommendation for a smaller SSD.
Thanks It's okay depending on pricing and availability to you. P8H61 Pro is old and was pretty expensive for a H61 board. A B75 board may be a better choice. GTX 560 is also old and depending on price, a GTX 650 Ti or 7850 may be better. The performance difference between a Caviar Black and Blue are very minimal so you may want to save some money and get the Blue instead if the three extra years of warranty on the Black is not a big deal to you. There might be something better than the Antec High Current 520 or Neo Eco 520. (There is definitely something better on newegg). For SSDs, Samsung 840, Samsung 830, Crucial M4, Plextor M5S. Thx for help. I've replaced h61 with B75, gtx 560 with GTX 650 Ti (1GB if i get an SSD, 2GB if i dont). I'm still thinking about the Caviar Black/Blue. What am I looking with the power supply, more power than 520w ? Thx for help GTX 560 is a lot more powerful than the GTX 650 Ti. Also unless your getting a flagship GPU (GTX 680 / HD 7970) 1GB is enough. You do not need more than 500w for ANY Single GPU Computer. http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/543?vs=680
That's not true, you can see how closely the GTX 650 Ti is to the GTX 560 in the Anandtech bench linked. GTX 650 Ti also consumes less power, supports more than two monitors, while being less expensive than a GTX 560 in most cases.
|
On December 20 2012 04:11 Medrea wrote:
The CPU is built to downclock itself when its not doing anything. Try doing something, then looking at CPU-z.
I downloaded performance test (Passmark) and ran it. CPU-z stayed between 800-900MHz and the test result was extremely poor compared to baseline (it got around 1100 vs almost 3000 average for the same processor).
|
On December 20 2012 07:25 Sein wrote:Show nested quote +On December 20 2012 04:11 Medrea wrote:
The CPU is built to downclock itself when its not doing anything. Try doing something, then looking at CPU-z. I downloaded performance test (Passmark) and ran it. CPU-z stayed between 800-900MHz and the test result was extremely poor compared to baseline (it got around 1100 vs almost 3000 average for the same processor).
Check power options. Change to performance or max or even balanced should be okay. In advanced power options, make sure the maximum processor state is 100%.
If that's not it, check temperatures. Run something CPU-intensive again and see temperatures in HWMonitor or whatever utility you want to use. If they're running above 80C or so (at that low voltage and clock speed, it should be much much less), it's throttling itself down to lower power consumption and save itself from excessive temperatures. That would indicate something's wrong with the cooling system.
If that's not it, go into BIOS and turn off Intel SpeedStep / EIST / whatever it is labeled as and otherwise disable all the lower-power states. You can also try software like ThrottleStop I guess.
|
On December 20 2012 07:37 Myrmidon wrote:Show nested quote +On December 20 2012 07:25 Sein wrote:On December 20 2012 04:11 Medrea wrote:
The CPU is built to downclock itself when its not doing anything. Try doing something, then looking at CPU-z. I downloaded performance test (Passmark) and ran it. CPU-z stayed between 800-900MHz and the test result was extremely poor compared to baseline (it got around 1100 vs almost 3000 average for the same processor). Check power options. Change to performance or max or even balanced should be okay. In advanced power options, make sure the maximum processor state is 100%. If that's not it, check temperatures. Run something CPU-intensive again and see temperatures in HWMonitor or whatever utility you want to use. If they're running above 80C or so (at that low voltage and clock speed, it should be much much less), it's throttling itself down to lower power consumption and save itself from excessive temperatures. That would indicate something's wrong with the cooling system. If that's not it, go into BIOS and turn off Intel SpeedStep / EIST / whatever it is labeled as and otherwise disable all the lower-power states. You can also try software like ThrottleStop I guess.
Well, to be fair, while something still sounds very wrong, Passmark is, in fact, utter shit as a rule.
|
Hey, I've had my computer for 2 years now and I just finally used up 40GB on it. I'm considering a new build, etc, and I'm thinking about getting an SSD since I use so little HDD (and that's without deleting all the crap off). Like an older gen, used, SSD. I don't want to buy something that's so terrible it's the same as a 7200rpm/10krpm hdd though, so here's what I'm looking at.
It's got to be under $50, and it's got to have at least 50GB (that way I have a good 5-10GB of extra space, so it's not choked up at 95%+ and running slower because it's full... although im not exactly how that works, or if it's even like that, i mean if 99% is perfectly okay then 45gb would be fine). I'm sure I won't have much choice in the matter given the price range, but I'm pretty much forced into looking at sub-100gb, used, ebay, older models, I'm sure.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290829675868?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Kingston SSDNow V+100 64 GB,Internal,2.5" (SVP100S2/64G) (SSD) Solid State Drive
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400368879491?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Crucial 64 GB m4 Internal 2.5-Inch Solid State Hard Drive SATA CT064M4SSD2
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380539506353?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
OCZ Agility 3 120 GB,Internal,2.5" (AGT3-25SAT3-120G) (SSD) Solid State Drive
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170960989417?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Crucial m4 65 GB 2.5" SATA Internal Solid State Drive SSD CT064M4SSD2CCA
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230899076425?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
ntel SSDSA2CW120G3K5 320 Series 120GB SATA II 2.5" Internal Solid State Drive
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330846160431?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Kingston SNVP325-S2 SSDNow V Series 64GB SATA 2.5" Internal Solid State Dri
I'm not really sure which are better deals, and I'm sure prices fluctuate with bidding and all, but this was a quick search I did on SDDs on ebay, that were well under $50 currently (so will be up to $50 selling price, generally), and seemed to be notable brands and not laptop models. I really don't know anything about SSDs, except that no moving parts, expensive, and way faster than HDDs and tend to hold less space (given that I use only 40gb after 2 years, that shouldn't be an issue though, and may be a benefit since I could just go with like a 64gb ssd and that'd be all the memory I'd need).
If you can find any SSD for under $50, anywhere, that'd be perfectly okay too, but 40gb+ and under $50, I think, forces me to buy used ebay. I don't mind used, I prefer cheaper. If you find a listing or whatever, I can check it out to make sure it's a legit sale and all (contact seller, check out his history, etc), so don't worry about that
. I'm pretty well versed with ebay, I've been using it for a while and find it as secure, if not more secure, than most sites (newegg, etc), with features like pay after receiving the item, etc. That's just me, if you dont agree, you dont have to give a speel about how oh my god this guy on the internet 10 years ago said he had a bad experience on ebay when he bought from some shady guy with zero feedback, I've had only good experiences from ebay over many years and if you can find me a sub-$50 SSD anywhere else I'd be glad to check it out.
Thanks.
|
Not the SSDNow V. V+100 is a little more modern and better, should be okay maybe. Agility 3 is also more of a risk. Depending on how old the Intel 320 is, it may need a firmware update (then should be okay). Other than those, consider the rest pretty much the same and just go by price and capacity.
What's a laptop model? These are 2.5" form factor, the typical size for most laptops. (1.8" being rare and card-form-factor mSATA being more common now but still pretty uncommon; 3.5" being the standard for desktops). edit: I think NZXT Gamma is too cheap and oldschool to mount any 2.5" drives natively. That said, SSDs don't vibrate, so you can just tape them down or secure them in any way you want...
Yes they do run slower close to capacity, because how writes and erases work. They all tend to have some spare area over what is user-addressable, but a little buffer over that is better for more consistent performance. Don't need to go overboard though, particularly if you have a typical read-heavy desktop user pattern.
|
On December 20 2012 07:37 Myrmidon wrote:Show nested quote +On December 20 2012 07:25 Sein wrote:On December 20 2012 04:11 Medrea wrote:
The CPU is built to downclock itself when its not doing anything. Try doing something, then looking at CPU-z. I downloaded performance test (Passmark) and ran it. CPU-z stayed between 800-900MHz and the test result was extremely poor compared to baseline (it got around 1100 vs almost 3000 average for the same processor). Check power options. Change to performance or max or even balanced should be okay. In advanced power options, make sure the maximum processor state is 100%. If that's not it, check temperatures. Run something CPU-intensive again and see temperatures in HWMonitor or whatever utility you want to use. If they're running above 80C or so (at that low voltage and clock speed, it should be much much less), it's throttling itself down to lower power consumption and save itself from excessive temperatures. That would indicate something's wrong with the cooling system. If that's not it, go into BIOS and turn off Intel SpeedStep / EIST / whatever it is labeled as and otherwise disable all the lower-power states. You can also try software like ThrottleStop I guess.
Tweaked the power settings. It was on power savings mode, so I've tried changing it to balanced and high performance.
So far, neither did anything. I've been trying to get into BIOS, but none of F1-F12 or Del key will do anything. Ugh, this laptop is becoming a pain in the ass.
EDIT: I think I fixed it. Some Samsung or W8 program seems to have been resetting my power settings to "power saver" every time I rebooted for some reason. I got rid of that and put the option to high performance again. Now, i'm getting proper results from both Passmark (~3000) and WEI (6.9).
Still no clue how to access the BIOS on that laptop though -_-. Never had that issue before.
Thank you very much for your help.
|
On December 20 2012 04:37 Myrmidon wrote:Show nested quote +On December 19 2012 18:04 Evs wrote:+ Show Spoiler +What is your budget?
US $750, but that is the converted amount of my budget. Most of the parts will we bought locally using pesos here in my country.
What is your resolution?
1366 x 768 for now with my old monitor, I plan to buy a new monitor by June of next year (1920 x 1200)
What are you using it for?
General use, web surfing, and watching multimedia.
I don't intend to use this for playing any new games since I don't think I'll have much free time next year.
However, I like to play games I already own, mostly SC2 and older games that already ran with my old pc.
.
What is your upgrade cycle?
2 yrs
When do you plan on building it?
This week.
Do you plan on overclocking?
No
Do you need an Operating System?
Yes
Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire?
No
Where are you buying your parts from?
Locally, here in the Philippines (South East Asia)
My current build so far:
CPU: Corel i3 3220 3.3 Ghz
MOBO: Asus P8H77M-LE Intel H77
Memory: Kingston 4GB 1333
GPU: Powercolor HD 5670 1GB DDR3 128bit
HDD: Seagate 1 TB
OS: Win 7 Home Premium 64bit
My last CPU was an i3 530 2.93Ghz, and the GPU was GT 220, will there be a noticeable difference here or
will the performance for my PC stay the same?
Most shops here don't list their full catalog online so I have to physically visit them to look for parts. I'd appreciate suggestions about the following: (willing to spend up to $250 for this 4 parts)
Casing
PSU
UPS
Speakers - not an audiophile, any decent, less than $100 system would do. Do you still own the computer with i3-530 and GT 220? i3-3220 is better than i3-530, but not by a huge amount, not really anything different for what you're using the computer for, except SC2 a bit. It's probably better to just keep the old computer and just replace the GT 220, which is bad. HD 5670 is a lot faster but still maybe not what you want unless you want to keep playing the older games on lower settings with the new monitor. Can you afford something like HD 7770, maybe last-gen HD 6850?
Thanks for the reply, I'll try to salvage the old i3 then and look for the HD 7770/6850 that you mentioned.
|
|
|
|
|
|
EPT
