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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. |
5930 Posts
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How do any of you other experts feel about Disregard's suggestion for the build? I'm def thinking to swap that GPU and get the GTX 460 1GB instead. Any other suggestions for the motherboard? That's one computer part I'm most clueless about right now.
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Time to service the queue FIFO lol...will update. edit: done, unless I missed someone x_x
@xMiragex: + Show Spoiler +
@pirouni: + Show Spoiler +I say don't upgrade yet, to be honest. A E8400 is still pretty strong, especially considering that the applications you run don't seem to be well-threaded. Core-per-core and clock-per-clock, the E8400 is still pretty comparable to anything out there. The HD 5850 is of course still pretty high-end too.
In a couple of months, Intel's new generation of CPUs, AMD's (ATI) HD 69xx should be out. I'd suggest getting a i5-2500 and P67 mobo when those arrive. Try either one of the HD 69xx or maybe a GTX 580.
@distant_voice: + Show Spoiler +At the moment I can't think of where German buyers usually get their stuff...Sorry, but it's difficult for me to suggest parts since I'm not sure how the prices would differ between brands overseas.
I don't advise using integrated graphics to play SC2 unless you want to play on lowest settings.
You might have to make some tradeoff decisions about performance vs. quietness. The Antec P18x line is supposed to be very quiet, but there are other cheaper quiet options. Just avoid cases with lots of fans and a lot of mesh. For your uses, I think a Core i3-530 would be nice--but that's only a dual core, and you'd want a quad core if you wanted to stream games while playing.
A generic build would be something like this:
Core i3-530 (or -540 or -550; they're pretty much the same)
H55, H57, or P55 mobo (LGA 1156)
2x2 GB DDR3 RAM
GTS 450 (or HD 5750 or HD 5770, etc. -- you could spend less here for lowered graphics performance)
HDD
optical drive
SSD -- the 60 GB drives based on the SandForce SF-1200 controller are pretty good and reasonable in price
PSU -- you could run the above on a good 380W with lots of room to spare; one with a larger bottom fan is usually quieter but it depends heavily on the model
Look for an aftermarket CPU cooler that is tuned for quietness over performance, preferably with PWM fan speed control. The Core i3-530 doesn't produce much heat, so the cooler would run pretty quietly.
@maxchgr: + Show Spoiler +Yeah, Disregard's suggestion is okay. My build for xMiragex is very similar. (You can take out the SSD and Hyper 212+.) The PSU I suggested is better and $5 cheaper, but the cables are not modular. The mobos are pretty comparable.
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This is just a question out of curiosity. With regular hard drives, we're generally advised to keep it like 70% empty because otherwise it begins to slow down, or something. With SSDs does that advice still hold true? Or could we fill up the whole thing without any loss of performance?
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5930 Posts
To anyone interested in the P183 (distant_voice especially), it has a pretty fatal flaw when it comes to noise: the top exhaust vibrates and rattles.
To solve that problem, cut the metal fan grill cover out with tin snips or simply block it with something dense like a plastic sheet or thick foam.
In my workstation, I've personally blocked the top exhaust with a plastic slate that came with my Antec Aria since it means there'll be one less place for sound to escape from. I don't overclock and with a beefy tower CPU heatsink (basically any ~150mm tall heatsink these days), your temperatures should be very good anyway with only the rear exhaust.
You could even run the CPU heatsink passive if you wanted to since it'll still be better than the Intel stock cooler and the rear exhaust will do enough to draw the heat out and blow it outside of the case.
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Wait till next year when SSD prices will drop further, even a standard 60GB is too expensive for me. And I didnt look up the combo deals when I just made up that standard build, good tip if you want to save a extra $15-30+ on top of the Black Friday/Cyber Monday deals.
Still kinda skeptical of not waiting for Sandy Bridge... Oh well $175 for that i5 should do me justice for awhile after I overclock it.
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On November 26 2010 13:00 Womwomwom wrote:
To anyone interested in the P183 (distant_voice especially), it has a pretty fatal flaw when it comes to noise: the top exhaust vibrates and rattles.
To solve that problem, cut the metal fan grill cover out with tin snips or simply block it with something dense like a plastic sheet or thick foam.
In my workstation, I've personally blocked the top exhaust with a plastic slate that came with my Antec Aria since it means there'll be one less place for sound to escape from. I don't overclock and with a beefy tower CPU heatsink (basically any ~150mm tall heatsink these days), your temperatures should be very good anyway with only the rear exhaust.
You could even run the CPU heatsink passive if you wanted to since it'll still be better than the Intel stock cooler and the rear exhaust will do enough to draw the heat out and blow it outside of the case.
sounds like your fan is not set properly? have you tried rubber grommets?
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5930 Posts
No, there is definitely a rattling from the P183's top exhaust. Not surprisingly, the only review site that picked up on it was Silent PC Review (the only website that does proper case reviews these days), which was where I confirmed the problem with the top exhaust.
If you run fast RPM fans on the rear exhaust, you can still "feel" the metal outline of the fan hub vibrate and rattle if you hold it down with a pen.
How the fan is mounted in the P183 (screws and friction fit), there is no way to properly decouple it from the case without ripping the whole case apart so the only easy solution is to block it or cut the thin metal outline of the fan hub out.
This is what I am talking about:
http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/4375/antecp183top1sm.jpg
No idea why Antec didn't just cut it out since it serves no purpose whatsoever.
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thanks Myrmidon.
Here's my current setup, based on your recommendations and what I originally wanted. I think I won't buy an SSD just yet.
http://www.amazon.de/wishlist/6ZPCVYK6RNPN
a couple of questions:
1. Will I be able to upgrade this with an i5 or i7 processor if I ever need it? Can I simply switch it out and the board will know how to handle it? Would I need a different PSU for that? Why would anybody need a PSU that has more than 500W?
2. Is there any reason why I shouldn't buy an AMD cpu? it's cheaper isn't it?
3. Is it important what kind of RAM I buy? I know I need DDR3, but is the brand etc important? The same question goes for the graphics card and the motherboard.
4. will it be complicated to put it all together? I have some experience with that, but I've never built a PC from scratch.
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Just something I think anyone with the ability to do should do, the info on page 1 is a tad outdated, and the recommendations have become less relevant (better model for same price, etc.)
Does FragKrag still check this thread very often?
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@Melancholia: If the computer you're replacing is that old, I doubt it has DDR3 RAM? You need DDR3 RAM for that mobo. That CPU is an OEM version with no bundled heatsink I think, so you'd need a heatsink/fan for that. Or just get a normal Athlon II X2 instead. The PSU is way overkill. If you're counting on getting the rebate, this Antec Basiq 430W is cheaper.
@distant_voice: All Core i3, Core i5, and Core i7-8xx (not i7-9xx) are compatible with the same motherboards--the ones supporting the LGA 1156 socket, so they are replaceable. The CPU suggestion was just so you could have something reasonably powerful that doesn't make much heat (noise). AMD option is fine. I'm not even sure if that Zalman cooler supports socket LGA 1156 mobos.
People who need PSUs above 500W are those with a i7-950 and GTX 480, or running multiple GPUs, or lots of high-end stuff with lots of hard drives, etc. You don't need anything like 500W. Exact RAM and mobo brand doesn't matter too much when not overclocking.
Just FYI, the P183 is a pretty big case with a bottom-mounted PSU. Cables might not even be long enough on cheaper PSUs. There are definitely cheaper (and still high-quality and quiet) options than most Enermaxes, which are usually good but overpriced. Think this, except again I'm not that familiar with the case and layout, and if cables are long enough. Maybe think about a P180 mini and a microATX motherboard (unless you need the extra PCI/PCI-E slots)?
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On November 26 2010 11:24 Myrmidon wrote:Time to service the queue FIFO lol...will update. edit: done, unless I missed someone x_x @xMiragex: + Show Spoiler +
edit: nevermind this is good, thanks
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Quick, best deal on a good GPU for today? I need to upgrade to play SC2 on high/ultra, so anything that can do that for a good price. Thanks!
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Without knowing your resolution, gtx 460 keeps getting cheaper, but ATI keeps releasing new cards which I haven't read much about recently so..meh
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On November 27 2010 07:38 BobbyPG wrote:
Quick, best deal on a good GPU for today? I need to upgrade to play SC2 on high/ultra, so anything that can do that for a good price. Thanks!
GTX 470 for $199 @ newegg is the best deal I've seen online. If you live in Vancouver than the GTX 460 1GB for $129.
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EPT
