EPT![[image loading]](https://ssl.weed.cd/images/a7d6130a412984a1bf9d04a299a2a9219205e613full.jpg)
read more: http://www.cannabisculture.com/v2/node/429
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High Thread - Page 362
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Amnesia
United States3818 Posts
read more: http://www.cannabisculture.com/v2/node/429 LOL | ||
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trigun0x2
Canada39 Posts
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zizou21
United States3683 Posts
On September 27 2010 05:22 Terrakin wrote: exhaust, but seriously check out those other links that were posted, those forums are filled with long-time growers and tons of people learning such as yourself. with faqs guides pictures diagnosis' etc I have 3 exams this Thursday but i've spent the last 10 waking hours reading GC forums. I think i'm pretty close to ready....... I want to grow with 75% Coco and 25% perlite in a 1 gallon pot. Supplies i'm going to buy. pH meter w/ ph+ and ph- coco specific nutrients (canna A+B) ec/ppm meter (from what i understand this is the same thing? ec is euro and ppm is usa) maybe a moister meter since this is my first time watering a plant I'm going to check the ppm of the runoff of the coco to make sure it is good (should be less than 200ppm), and then start feeding the Coco nutes after 2 weeks of planting with around 150-200ppm of nutrient solution (i assume how much this is will be indicated on the bottle). the nutrient solution is tap water+coco nutrients+ ph'd to 5.8. after a few weeks raise to 400-600ppm, another few weeks for 800ppm-900ppm based on what the plant looks like When it comes to water, I really gotta figure this shit out by myself if I understand correctly. I want to try to keep it moist and about "half full" . I need to look for about 20% runoff. I hear oversaturation with Coco is pretty hard. Concerning the space, I'm going to hide it in a 2 door wooden cabinet ![[image loading]](http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41OJtyaEDxL._AA300_.jpg) I'm going to drill two 4-6inch holes for intake and exhaust (and with a carbon filter on the exhaust thanks to terrakin) To trap the light coming out of the intake and exhaust holes im going to build S shaped pvc pipes and spray paint the inside black. What do you guys think? You think I need more than a carbon filter to hide all that smell from 1 or 2 plants? | ||
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Zealotdriver
United States1557 Posts
On September 27 2010 06:34 zizou21 wrote: re-posting this for new page.. I have 3 exams this Thursday but i've spent the last 10 waking hours reading GC forums. I think i'm pretty close to ready....... I want to grow with 75% Coco and 25% perlite in a 1 gallon pot. Supplies i'm going to buy. pH meter w/ ph+ and ph- coco specific nutrients (canna A+B) ec/ppm meter (from what i understand this is the same thing? ec is euro and ppm is usa) maybe a moister meter since this is my first time watering a plant I'm going to check the ppm of the runoff of the coco to make sure it is good (should be less than 200ppm), and then start feeding the Coco nutes after 2 weeks of planting with around 150-200ppm of nutrient solution (i assume how much this is will be indicated on the bottle). the nutrient solution is tap water+coco nutrients+ ph'd to 5.8. after a few weeks raise to 400-600ppm, another few weeks for 800ppm-900ppm based on what the plant looks like When it comes to water, I really gotta figure this shit out by myself if I understand correctly. I want to try to keep it moist and about "half full" . I need to look for about 20% runoff. I hear oversaturation with Coco is pretty hard. Concerning the space, I'm going to hide it in a 2 door wooden cabinet I'm going to drill two 4-6inch holes for intake and exhaust (and with a carbon filter on the exhaust thanks to terrakin) To trap the light coming out of the intake and exhaust holes im going to build S shaped pvc pipes and spray paint the inside black. What do you guys think? You think I need more than a carbon filter to hide all that smell from 1 or 2 plants? Make sure you use flat matte black on those intakes, not gloss or semi-gloss. Also add an intake filter to keep out dust, hair, and carpet fibers. The intake does not have to contain activated carbon, it can be a cheapass hardware store air filter. The exhaust filter should be a pellet type filter with 1-2.5" thick carbon section, not a lousy "sock" or mesh style which does not provide enough carbon surface area to capture cannabis odor. Don't use hydroponics for your first grow. Use organic potting soil. Here is why: - Simpler design. You will have plenty of other challenges like temperature control, disease, pests, humidity, odor, and noise. - Lower initial cost - Less sensitive to environmental shock - Quieter Edit: Also, don't drill holes that large. Just buy or borrow a cheap jigsaw and use that to cut the holes. Use a circular template to draw a circle on the wood. Drill a hole that is the size of the jigsaw blade, like 3/8" or whatever, insert the jigsaw blade, then cut it out. Once you install your fan or ducting to the hole, seal up the perimeter of the hole (indeed all seams in the cabinet) with a non-toxic glue. | ||
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Phiggot03
Vietnam132 Posts
Quite possibly the funniest shit I've seen in awhile.... hahahaha. | ||
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zizou21
United States3683 Posts
i'll definitely get an a pellet type exhaust filter with 1-2.5" thick carbon section ! I'm still unsure if 4-6" fans for pulling air in and pulling air out is enough | ||
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Lefnui
United States753 Posts
On September 27 2010 02:08 Sexualinguistic wrote: what's trolling? o_o I do smoke more than 100 a day. I buy those pure hemp packets by the dozen, roll up doobies from the morning till night, chillin with all my friends who are pot smokers because they get to smoke till they can't where I'm at. lol That's exactly what I mean by trolling, saying that you smoke hemp packets. and before you guys say "lol u probably was smokin some BAD shit to be smokin 100 joints a day", imagine that I had pounds on me of purple kush, orange kush, etc, ALWAYS. I'm like SPM, "if that shit ain't hydro, please get it out ma face" Whether it's hydro or not doesn't determine the quality of the herb. I went from smoking 100+ to smoking maybe half the joint and putting it away for later use. Do I have cancer or something? Definitely. They're going to use that image in an anti-drug commercial. On September 27 2010 06:34 zizou21 wrote:Supplies i'm going to buy You might want to use larger buckets, 3 and 5 gallon are more standard. Get an EC Meter instead of a PPM Meter so you don't have to do any conversion. Make sure you get an air-cooled hood because high temperatures could be a problem in that little space. And its important to purchase good seeds, probably feminized since you'll only have two. | ||
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Zealotdriver
United States1557 Posts
On September 27 2010 08:09 zizou21 wrote: Zealotdriver do you think i still need an intake filter if the room it is in is very clean?; no dust, hardwood floor, no animal hair etc. i'll definitely get an a pellet type exhaust filter with 1-2.5" thick carbon section ! I'm still unsure if 4-6" fans for pulling air in and pulling air out is enough Yeah, you should use an intake filter. Living cannabis buds are extremely sticky and any particulates in the air will accumulate on them. Get a 6" CAN fan or Vortex fan. Only get one of those two brands, do not buy a cheap one. If you do, you will be very sorry you didn't drop the extra $50 on it when the econoblower sounds like a jet engine. Even with a good fan, you may need to construct or buy an exhaust silencer. The 6" will have greater airflow and lower noise levels than a 4" fan and will be directly compatible with most hoods. Edit: Also get a dehumidifier if you exhaust inside the house. | ||
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Zealotdriver
United States1557 Posts
On September 27 2010 08:16 Lefnui wrote: + Show Spoiler + On September 27 2010 02:08 Sexualinguistic wrote: what's trolling? o_o I do smoke more than 100 a day. I buy those pure hemp packets by the dozen, roll up doobies from the morning till night, chillin with all my friends who are pot smokers because they get to smoke till they can't where I'm at. lol That's exactly what I mean by trolling, saying that you smoke hemp packets. and before you guys say "lol u probably was smokin some BAD shit to be smokin 100 joints a day", imagine that I had pounds on me of purple kush, orange kush, etc, ALWAYS. I'm like SPM, "if that shit ain't hydro, please get it out ma face" Whether it's hydro or not doesn't determine the quality of the herb. I went from smoking 100+ to smoking maybe half the joint and putting it away for later use. Do I have cancer or something? Definitely. They're going to use that image in an anti-drug commercial. On September 27 2010 06:34 zizou21 wrote:Supplies i'm going to buy You might want to use larger buckets, 3 and 5 gallon are more standard. Get an EC Meter instead of a PPM Meter so you don't have to do any conversion. Make sure you get an air-cooled hood because high temperatures could be a problem in that little space. And its important to purchase good seeds, probably feminized since you'll only have two. Don't bother with seeds. Since you have a tiny grow, just get clones from another local medical grower. It is a lot easier and faster. Make sure the clones are nice and healthy and have roots beginning to poke out of the rockwool starter cube. The roots should be white and not brown. | ||
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zizou21
United States3683 Posts
On September 27 2010 08:16 Lefnui wrote: You might want to use larger buckets, 3 and 5 gallon are more standard. Get an EC Meter instead of a PPM Meter so you don't have to do any conversion. Make sure you get an air-cooled hood because high temperatures could be a problem in that little space. And its important to purchase good seeds, probably feminized since you'll only have two. if i get one of these http://www.htgsupply.com/viewproduct.asp?productID=52557 would i still need an air-cooled hood? and by using larger buckets (3-5gl), you mean for mixing the nurient solution or to grow my shit in? I'm still very confused  I need: An intake filter in one hole, and in the other hole an inline fan plugged into a carbon filter and im good? | ||
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Zealotdriver
United States1557 Posts
On September 27 2010 09:02 zizou21 wrote: if i get one of these http://www.htgsupply.com/viewproduct.asp?productID=52557 would i still need an air-cooled hood? and by using larger buckets (3-5gl), you mean for mixing the nurient solution or to grow my shit in? I'm still very confused I need: An intake filter in one hole, and in the other hole an inline fan plugged into a carbon filter and im good? Do not buy a 4" fan and do not buy that cheapass brand. If you plan to use bulbs that are not rated for open fixtures (it will say O or E at the end of the ballast spec such as M59/E for enclosed), then you MUST use an air cooled hood because it will be enclosed and will protect your crop from exploding bulbs. If the bulb doesn't specify open or enclosed, then don't buy that bulb because it will be a piece of shit. Lefnui is referring to the buckets/pots that hold the growing medium. Root volume is directly proportional to plant size. Bigger plants need bigger pots. If you are putting 1 plants per square foot, use 5 gal. With cabinets like yours, many growers simply attach the carbon filter to the intake of the hood and use 1 blower. Ambient air->intake dust filter->grow chamber->carbon filter->light hood aka reflector->Inline centrifugal blower (fan)->outside Also, put an oscillating tower fan inside the grow chamber. This provides air circulation, helps the plants' morphology develop properly, and helps reduce mold and fungal growth. | ||
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Lefnui
United States753 Posts
By 3 or 5 gallon buckets I mean the container for the plant. You just need to drill small holes on the bottom for drainage. | ||
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Zealotdriver
United States1557 Posts
On September 27 2010 09:33 Lefnui wrote: The air cooled hood is attached to venting which goes to the exhaust fan. It's the exhaust that needs to be attached to the carbon filter. By 3 or 5 gallon buckets I mean the container for the plant. You just need to drill small holes on the bottom for drainage. Do not just hook up the exhaust port to a carbon filter. This is very foolish for the following reasons: - The air will not go through the carbon filter's pre-filter so more dust will accumulate on the carbon, blocking the surface and clogging it up. - The warm air will cause water condensation on the cold filter if it is outside the main growing area. This will shorten the lifetime and efficacy tremendously. Put the carbon filter in the growing area so that it is the same temperature as the inside air and have the blower suck from the filter instead of blowing into the filter. | ||
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zizou21
United States3683 Posts
I plan to use CFLs for the vegetative state and HPS for flowering. Do I need an air hood for these? I still don't understand what the relationship between the intake dust filter and the carbon filter should be. here's a quick sketch of what I have in mind in right now. ![[image loading]](http://i51.tinypic.com/2wfl5z5.jpg) With cabinets like yours, many growers simply attach the carbon filter to the intake of the hood and use 1 blower. What do you mean by 1 Blower? edit: btw what do you guys think of a negative pressure system? This is what some guy from GC said to me: + Show Spoiler + An intake fan is not really needed. What most people use is a "passive intake" which is just a hole in the box that lets air in. This is called a "negative pressure" system. With this setup, the air pressure inside your box is lower than the air pressure of the room surrounding it. This way, if it isn't completely sealed, air will suck in to the box through any holes rather than out. If you ran a positive pressure system, you would have your fan on your intake, and your exhaust would be passive, resulting in a higher air pressure inside the box than outside. With this setup, any tiny holes or leaks in your box would allow unfiltered air to escape and you'd soon have a skunky house. For this reason growers almost exclusively use negate pressure systems. An intake fan would take some of the burden off of the exhaust fan, and allow you to go with a smaller intake, but you have to be careful because if you go to powerful with your intake fan you'll start to lose your negative pressure, and risk odor leaks. This is why most people go with a passive intake: it takes the guesswork out of it. | ||
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Zealotdriver
United States1557 Posts
On September 27 2010 10:04 zizou21 wrote: + Show Spoiler + Ok that helps a lot. I still don't understand what the relationship between the intake dust filter and the carbon filter should be. here's a quick sketch of what I have in mind in right now. ![[image loading]](http://i52.tinypic.com/rrkt5l.jpg) With cabinets like yours, many growers simply attach the carbon filter to the intake of the hood and use 1 blower. What do you mean by 1 Blower? Yeah you have pretty much the right idea. Just hang the carbon filter up high. A typical design has the carbon filter, blower, and ballasts all hanging from the ceiling of your chamber. Edit: The design I described and the design you drew both have "negative pressure" inside the chamber. In reality, there is no such thing as "negative pressure," it is a colloquial term used to describe an internal pressure lower than ambient pressure. The main benefit of this is that tiny leaks in the chamber don't matter as much since air only flows in through any cracks. If you have your blower on the chamber's intake, then it creates a positive pressure inside and stinky air may escape an imperfectly sealed chamber. | ||
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zizou21
United States3683 Posts
![[image loading]](http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/4738/00nufcgdiagramedited.jpg) Is this a good setup? What do you guys think about passive intake? Do I need to be able to adjust the air hood with respect to the size of the plant or can I Just keep it at the top of the grow space the entire time? Or do I need to keep it up at 40" from the soil the entire time or something like that? Will an HPS air hood also support CFLs? I'm confused as to how air hoods work; if I can switch out CFLs and HPS lightbulbs in the same hood. | ||
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Zealotdriver
United States1557 Posts
On September 27 2010 11:35 zizou21 wrote: What is a ballast? Is this a good setup? What do you guys think about passive intake? Do I need to be able to adjust the air hood with respect to the size of the plant or can I Just keep it at the top of the grow space the entire time? Or do I need to keep it up at 40" from the soil the entire time or something like that? Will an HPS air hood also support CFLs? I'm confused as to how air hoods work; if I can switch out CFLs and HPS lightbulbs in the same hood. Ballast regulates current through your lamp. All HID and fluorescent bulbs require a ballast. CFL bulbs almost always integrate the ballast into the lamp if it is a ED27 base bulb, such as household incandescent replacements. https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Electrical_ballast The setup you drew looks pretty good, of course details will change depending on the cabinet and dimensions of the various components. It is best to fix the reflector as high as possible and simply sit the pots on little stools or blocks. Remove blocks as the plants grow. Don't forget to top them, topping causes them to split and grow multiple colas. Topping keeps the plants short and stocky, which minimizes the distance water has to travel from the roots to the top and maximizes light efficiency. Use rigid ducting if possible to minimize pressure loss and noise. If you must use flexible duct, make sure it is stretched and is as short as possible to make it smooth inside. Do not have loose floppy duct hanging around, its annoying as fuck and highly inefficient. For bulb compatibility consider these things: - Ballast ANSI code matches - Socket: mogul for high power bulbs, or medium base aka ED27 for little guys - Interior reflector dimensions | ||
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yoshinori
United States34 Posts
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zizou21
United States3683 Posts
On September 27 2010 11:50 Zealotdriver wrote: Ballast regulates current through your lamp. All HID and fluorescent bulbs require a ballast. CFL bulbs almost always integrate the ballast into the lamp if it is a ED27 base bulb, such as household incandescent replacements. https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Electrical_ballast The setup you drew looks pretty good, of course details will change depending on the cabinet and dimensions of the various components. It is best to fix the reflector as high as possible and simply sit the pots on little stools or blocks. Remove blocks as the plants grow. Don't forget to top them, this causes Use rigid ducting if possible to minimize pressure loss and noise. If you must use flexible duct, make sure it is stretched and is as short as possible to make it smooth inside. Do not have loose floppy duct hanging around, its annoying as fuck and highly inefficient. For bulb compatibility consider these things: - Ballast ANSI code matches - Socket: mogul for high power bulbs, or medium base aka ED27 for little guys - Interior reflector dimensions Thanks. The bulb info is very useful. Is there a bulb that will work in the same socket as the HPS, except that is good lighting for the vegetative phase? That way I can easily swap it out when I need to. I didn't draw that pic btw, I found it on google. The Red lines connecting the exhaust exit to air hood and the fan to the air hood represent ducting right? btw i think this sentence is cut off lol Don't forget to top them, this causes | ||
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zizou21
United States3683 Posts
On September 27 2010 10:30 Zealotdriver wrote: Edit: The design I described and the design you drew both have "negative pressure" inside the chamber. In reality, there is no such thing as "negative pressure," it is a colloquial term used to describe an internal pressure lower than ambient pressure. The main benefit of this is that tiny leaks in the chamber don't matter as much since air only flows in through any cracks. If you have your blower on the chamber's intake, then it creates a positive pressure inside and stinky air may escape an imperfectly sealed chamber. Oh, so there's no fan on the intake filter? i r dumb :| | ||
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