EPTWarhammer Armies! (Tabletop) - Page 10
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Requizen
United States33802 Posts
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Godwrath
Spain10154 Posts
On August 12 2013 04:21 Requizen wrote: So I did some reading online and the consensus seems to be that Tyranids are pretty weak, should I switch before I spend too much on them or so you guys think they're still viable? The new codex should be in less than one year. Just don't commit too much to them and wait up for the dex, or switch. By the way, about assemble/paint. It depends on you, i know many people who paint before, but they tend to magnetize and stuff. I am a grey plastic general, who only paints for tournaments, so assemble first for me, and just drybrush stuff haha. | ||
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Manit0u
Poland17792 Posts
On August 12 2013 04:23 Godwrath wrote: The new codex should be in less than one year. Just don't commit too much to them and wait up for the dex, or switch. By the way, about assemble/paint. It depends on you, i know many people who paint before, but they tend to magnetize and stuff. I am a grey plastic general, who only paints for tournaments, so assemble first for me, and just drybrush stuff haha. Nids have been nerfed to oblivion in 5th (with lasguns being able to easily wound your biggest creatures and IG can put out a metric ton of lasgun fire) and in 6th they've been curbstomped even more. At least they got access to biomancy and other useful casting but that's not really helping them much. On the matter of assemble -> paint or the other way around, it really depends on the model. If you have a big, finely detailed model with few pieces you can safely paint before assembling it to get to all the areas easier. With smaller models or ones with many pieces and odd poses (shields covering 3/4 of the body etc.) it's usually best to at least partially assemble them before painting (leaving out any obscuring stuff) and painting the rest separately before gluing it together. It also depends on the quality you want to achieve, if you need just the basic colouring you can easily just assemble and paint. If you want more detail and advanced techniques then look to the above statement of "depends on the model". | ||
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Requizen
United States33802 Posts
I just grabbed the Necron Battleforce and a Command/Annihilation Barge box. My plan is to make the Ark a Ghost Ark and not attach the center part of the barge so I can swap out the Overlord or Cannon depending on the game. I don't know if I want to muck about with magentizing yet (seems a bit difficult), but from the looks of it either one should set in place pretty well during a game. I'm thinking of a bright silver with lightning blue highlights for the army, give them kind of a blue laser look to the armor. I'm a bit apprehensive about painting the vehicles, though, so many little parts with different colors o.O Do I paint the little Warriors on the Ark and the vehicles seperately or do I put it together and try to get at them while they're sitting there? | ||
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Manit0u
Poland17792 Posts
On August 16 2013 00:22 Requizen wrote: I'm thinking of a bright silver with lightning blue highlights for the army, give them kind of a blue laser look to the armor. I'm a bit apprehensive about painting the vehicles, though, so many little parts with different colors o.O Do I paint the little Warriors on the Ark and the vehicles seperately or do I put it together and try to get at them while they're sitting there? How much experience do you have with painting? Bright colours are usually much harder to work with than dark ones (white and yellow being the pinnacle of difficulty, hence so few people opt for White Scars or Imperial Fists SM chapters). If you want I could give you some tips to get a nice effect relatively easily, especially that crons are probably the easiest to paint army of them all. | ||
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Requizen
United States33802 Posts
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Inquisitor
Canada253 Posts
My tip for metals (sorry if paint names are wrong, i still only know the older names  ) : do your base coat the lead bleachers metal (former Boltgun metal) and then apply a black and brown ink wash over them and then highlight with the brighter silver (i don't know its name, but it would either be the chainmail or mithril silver equivalent in the new range) As for the Ark, I'd likely paint it in parts just due to all the hard to reach areas with a brush for highlighting. | ||
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Stratos_speAr
United States6959 Posts
On August 16 2013 03:36 Requizen wrote: About as close to 0 as you can get, honestly. I'd have no problem opting for a different color scheme if you think it'd be more forgiving on a noob like me. Just flipping through the codex there was a Deathmark with a cool light blue and metallic paint job that I liked, there's plenty of other ones that are cool too. Yea, bright colors like white/yellow/orange can be quite difficult to paint. I normally undercoat everything with black, but if I have something that is going to have a significant amount of a light color on it, I undercoat it white. Not only that, but you'll need several layers to make the color look full as opposed to thin, dried-out, and see-through. In the end though, basic painting (as in good enough to get on all the colors cleanly and get some small stuff detailed) really isn't that hard; I was able to apply really nice paint jobs by the time I got all the way through the Battle of Macragge box set (back in 4th). Painting for competitions is much harder, of course, but as long as you are patient, you shouldn't have a real problem painting anything, so long as you actually dedicate the time and realize that you cannot rush it. As for assembly/paint order, I always spray-paint the plastic sprues first, then assemble, then paint. I've never had a problem with getting detail on there, and it actually helps me make the painting consistent and to see the whole picture. The only time that I would bother painting pre-assembly is if I was painting an extremely important model (like my HQ) and wanted to do a really nice job on it. | ||
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Manit0u
Poland17792 Posts
 Anyway, with 0 experience I'd suggest getting the minimum required paints:2 washes - black and blue (don't really know how new GW washes hold on to the old ones but I'd opt for Nuln Oil and Asurmen Blue) 2 metallic paints - dark/middletone and a bright one 2 regular paints - black and white 1 primer in a spray can (black) 3 brushes - drybrush (looks pretty much like regular waterpaint brush but is a bit stiffer), regular brush (size 2 or 3), detail brush (size 1). Don't get the GW brushes they're expensive and not that great, better to go to an art store and get your brushes for pennies. 1 plastic palette - as above, buy cheapest one from the art store. This will have you set. How to paint cool looking crons with above mentioned paints and accessories: Part 1: Preparation 1. Assemble 2. Dip your models in soap + water, then wash with water and let them dry (this will remove any oily residue from the mould and your fingers you've left there while assembling, paint doesn't stick to that very well) 3. Spray with the primer and let them dry, preferably until the next day 4. Go over the models with regular brush and thinned (slightly watered down) black paint in the spots you missed with the spray (deep recesses usually) Part 2: Main 1. Paint the entirety of the models with darker metallic colour (also slightly watered down). 2. Go over the entire models with black wash. 3. Drybrush the models with lighter metallic colour (here's how to do it: link). Part 3: Details 1. Paint the parts you want blue with white paint (thin it down very slightly) using the detail brush. 2. When white paint is dry you can apply the blue wash to the areas you painted with it. 3. If you want you can then add some thinned down white over the edges of blue areas for additional depth/highlight. This way of making blue will give it the nice energy-like look, and if your blue wash goes over a bit to the silver parts it will give the impression of glow coming out from the blue parts. Here's how it works: ![[image loading]](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_CbSWEUnVCVU/S_DOtFQREHI/AAAAAAAABag/F-V-WMJMkzo/s400/Darksol%27s+Gallery+1210.jpg) ![[image loading]](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_CbSWEUnVCVU/S_DOcb1UiBI/AAAAAAAABaY/RvB7dLPzXpk/s400/Darksol%27s+Gallery+1211.jpg) ![[image loading]](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_CbSWEUnVCVU/S_DOcJVV3_I/AAAAAAAABaQ/akPgRdEQ37Y/s400/Darksol%27s+Gallery+1212.jpg) Pictures courtesy of masterdarksol @ blogspot.com Edit: Pro tip - if your hand is shaky, touch your small finger to the base of the miniature you're painting or other stable surface, this discovery was the most awesome thing I've learned in my entire miniature painting career (18 years or more). | ||
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Requizen
United States33802 Posts
Does priming the sprues pre-assembly mess with the glue at all? Otherwise I might just start taking them out back and spray them altogether. Was planning on going to a hobby store after work for a new knife anyway. | ||
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Stratos_speAr
United States6959 Posts
On August 16 2013 04:15 Requizen wrote: Thanks to everyone, lots of good help here Does priming the sprues pre-assembly mess with the glue at all? Otherwise I might just start taking them out back and spray them altogether. Was planning on going to a hobby store after work for a new knife anyway. That's exactly what I do - take all of your sprues and just mass spray-paint them to get the undercoat done in one swoop. I've put together the 4th and 5th edition box sets as well as CSM, Eldar, Necron, Grey Knight, and Tyranid armies, and it's never caused any problems for me when assembling. | ||
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Requizen
United States33802 Posts
On August 16 2013 04:27 Stratos_speAr wrote: That's exactly what I do - take all of your sprues and just mass spray-paint them to get the undercoat done in one swoop. I've put together the 4th and 5th edition box sets as well as CSM, Eldar, Necron, Grey Knight, and Tyranid armies, and it's never caused any problems for me when assembling. Now the only issue is finding a place to spraypaint... Stupid apartments  | ||
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deth2munkies
United States4051 Posts
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Snotling
Germany885 Posts
On August 16 2013 06:03 deth2munkies wrote: I had a 2000 point Wood Elf army in ~2000-2001. Completely outdated and horrible now and only a few of the archers were painted. Now it's in a tackle box in my attic collecting dust. i guess that describes 90% off all sold miniatures ^^ | ||
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Requizen
United States33802 Posts
On August 16 2013 06:09 Snotling wrote: i guess that describes 90% off all sold miniatures ^^ I actually have a collection of Eldar Guardians, Swooping Hawks, and Striking Scorpians alongside Baharroth and Feugan somewhere in my parent's basement, just didn't want to go Eldar this time. Next time I visit I might pick them up and finish painting them. | ||
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IMABUNNEH
United Kingdom1062 Posts
Looks amazing if people don't look TOO close, and easy as to paint :D (I suck at painting though, I'm required to do a small amount for tournaments ) | ||
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Arnstein
Norway3381 Posts
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Inquisitor
Canada253 Posts
On August 16 2013 06:09 Snotling wrote: i guess that describes 90% off all sold miniatures ^^ It's so sad how true this is. The number of models i have laying around in partial stages of being built and painted is kinda depressing ahah. | ||
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Manit0u
Poland17792 Posts
On August 16 2013 06:53 Inquisitor wrote: It's so sad how true this is. The number of models i have laying around in partial stages of being built and painted is kinda depressing ahah. I have an entire bookcase worth of models like that (7 shelves, roughly 40x150cm), and quite a few unopened boxes lying in various places. I guess that's one of the reasons I switched over to Infinity and Warmachine - you don't need to have hundreds of models in your army so it's less daunting to assemble and paint them all. | ||
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Godwrath
Spain10154 Posts
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