|
On December 27 2012 15:56 Juliette wrote:dare me to try it? im not short and skinny, i could prolly pull parts off. drop crotch so hyyyype
Is that some slang from Cali, or something? I've never heard, or seen, anyone else use hype like that.
|
On December 27 2012 16:05 SweeTLemonS[TPR] wrote:Show nested quote +On December 27 2012 15:56 Juliette wrote:On December 27 2012 15:47 andyrau wrote:this isn't going to appeal to you, but + Show Spoiler + dare me to try it? im not short and skinny, i could prolly pull parts off. drop crotch so hyyyype Is that some slang from Cali, or something? I've never heard, or seen, anyone else use hype like that. its a joke at the expense of anyone that uses hype :p
although, i dunno ive heard it used in that sense in multiple places. internet and irl.
|
|
On December 27 2012 15:47 andyrau wrote:this isn't going to appeal to you, but for a general idea + Show Spoiler +menswear so basic
Yes, I really like some of these looks, particularly stuff like + Show Spoiler + which seem a bit more 'entry level' and a slightly less adventurous, but being on a student budget and not anywhere near being able to afford commes, junya, issey etc, how do I achieve this, where could I find these clothes on a shoestring?! Some of these outfits, I assume, would cost my tuition fees at uni for a term or two at least...! But nonetheless, I'd like to head in this general direction... Also, how could (should?) one inject some colour into it? Are there any examples? (for the sake of curiosity xD)
|
well the whole point of goth ninja is to have no color haha
well identify what pieces you need. deep U (slutty) T-shirts, black jeans, flowy outerwear
AA sells U shirts. Black jeans can be found in a bunch of places (Levis/Uniqlo, and many selvedge alternatives). the outerwear i wouldnt know
look 2 looks like wool sweater, chinos, oxfords. many places for those. (uniqlo, my chinos are Gap lol, oxfords from a million places).
dont skimp on shoes
|
Yeah, the good thing about basic outfits is exactly that: they're basic.
A grey t-shirt is a grey t-shirt. Honestly, if you buy like a Zegna t-shirt for $335, you're an idiot, in my book (or filthy fucking rich), since that same grey T looks just like the one I picked up on sale for like $15 at Banana Republic, and probably isn't significantly better quality (in all honesty, there is a difference in Hanes level shirts). And, being honest again, it's kind of stupid that I paid $15 for that shirt when I probably could have gotten it even cheaper at Gap or Old Navy or something... but I was in BR.
Last year, I picked up a Merino Wool sweater from Calvin Klein for under $40. You could probably pull off that look with a cotton sweater though, which would (in the same sort of sale) be cheaper than the one I found. The white button up shirt under that can be found anywhere from $20, just find one that fits. Black jeans are black jeans, as long as they fit well.
Chinos are even cheaper at Old Navy if you're on a tight budget ($15 last time I looked). No, they probably won't last you very long, in comparison, but they'll look fine, and get you through the next 6 mos-1 year at least. If you want to wait for a good sale, Express has pretty nice dress slacks, and you can usually get them as low as $30-$40, if you catch a good sale (I think I paid $40-$45 for the grey producer pants I bought from them about two years ago, and they run sales often).
You may consider spending slightly more on the coats and shoes. No need to go to AE's, or something $300+, but cheap shoes look cheap a lot of times, and your feet are done growing (mostly) anyway, so you may as well make a bit more of an investment in them, and get a pair that can be repaired, so they'll last a few years. Something like Bostonian, or Florsheim could be in your budget ($80-$120), or maybe even Aldo. Make the $12 investment in shoe trees, too.
The coat in pic 1 can be found for around $100 at the right time. I got a wool coat, with an attached, removable hood for $120 or so from Macy's about two years ago, and the grey one I posted earlier was $99 + tax this year. Both coats are from Guess. I'm willing to bet you could find a comparable light jacket to the third one for around $50.
All together you're looking at a pretty low budget. For all three outfits, under $500, and you could get it cheaper than that, if you look hard enough. I figure: Shoes: $120 (+$12 shoe trees) + t-shirt + $15 (definitely can go cheaper) + OCBD: $25+ Pants: $80 (chinos + jeans)+ sweater: $50 + Coats: $180 = $482, or the cost of one a shirt from one of the designers you mentioned. That's three outfits for under $500, and if like wearing t-shirts, you could easily turn that into several more outfits for another $50 (a white T, a blue T, a maroon T, maybe a polo, and so on). Easy.
|
fabrixquare sells a bunch of knockoffs for cheap with supposedly (anecdotal) great build and quality. of course people on sufu and szg will shit all over you for wearing knockoffs, but the point of fashion was never to impress other people - it's to satisfy your own view of aesthetics.
and monochromatic colors are the palette of choice because it embodies what goth ninja represents - simplistic minimalism. of course you could toss it up with busier colors but you sacrifice the theme of the style. speaking of which, elitists don't consider gothninja to be an actual style, but I've never been able to wrap my head around this.
personally I consider menswear to be a bore because there's not much left room for individual creativity. Every silhouette's been explored, and there are almost rules for dressing in that style - it's both restrictive and comforting at the same time, I suppose. Restrictive because anything you do out of the norm is considered wrong and everyone seems to wear the same thing, given that you understand the rather simple concepts of fit/proportions and you're wearing the 'right' things. Comforting, I suppose, because there are guidelines and rules you can follow. For people uninterested in spending the time to plan each outfit out, I think traditional menswear is a great, albeit mundane way to dress. essentially, it's a really basic way to dress.
One thing I want to highlight is that technically most of the inspo pics I posted weren't outright goofninja, it was more streetwear than anything. goofninja is far more radical and I simply don't think it looks good in real life. As a concept, these silhouettes are fantastic but what's metaphorically good on paper doesn't translate well into reality. In extension, I'd like to go off on a tangential rant and say that Korean street fashion is trash. it's not like I'm just hating, either; I'd consider myself a pretty big fan of Korean culture as well. Most if not all of it is one dimensional and extremely gimmicky. I think some dude on effay put it best - Korean street fashion is Tokyo's diffusion line.
also while I'm at it, I dislike the dropcrotch trend in general. not everything rick owens makes is holy, and this dropcrotch fascination of his being parroted by everyone from chavs to the biebs is kinda silly. AA is shit, you could find something at h&m for cheaper. Look 2 is Jil Sanders sweater and trousers, I'm not sure about the shirt.
On December 27 2012 19:22 SweeTLemonS[TPR] wrote:+ Show Spoiler + Yeah, the good thing about basic outfits is exactly that: they're basic.
A grey t-shirt is a grey t-shirt. Honestly, if you buy like a Zegna t-shirt for $335, you're an idiot, in my book (or filthy fucking rich), since that same grey T looks just like the one I picked up on sale for like $15 at Banana Republic, and probably isn't significantly better quality (in all honesty, there is a difference in Hanes level shirts). And, being honest again, it's kind of stupid that I paid $15 for that shirt when I probably could have gotten it even cheaper at Gap or Old Navy or something... but I was in BR.
Last year, I picked up a Merino Wool sweater from Calvin Klein for under $40. You could probably pull off that look with a cotton sweater though, which would (in the same sort of sale) be cheaper than the one I found. The white button up shirt under that can be found anywhere from $20, just find one that fits. Black jeans are black jeans, as long as they fit well.
Chinos are even cheaper at Old Navy if you're on a tight budget ($15 last time I looked). No, they probably won't last you very long, in comparison, but they'll look fine, and get you through the next 6 mos-1 year at least. If you want to wait for a good sale, Express has pretty nice dress slacks, and you can usually get them as low as $30-$40, if you catch a good sale (I think I paid $40-$45 for the grey producer pants I bought from them about two years ago, and they run sales often).
You may consider spending slightly more on the coats and shoes. No need to go to AE's, or something $300+, but cheap shoes look cheap a lot of times, and your feet are done growing (mostly) anyway, so you may as well make a bit more of an investment in them, and get a pair that can be repaired, so they'll last a few years. Something like Bostonian, or Florsheim could be in your budget ($80-$120), or maybe even Aldo. Make the $12 investment in shoe trees, too.
The coat in pic 1 can be found for around $100 at the right time. I got a wool coat, with an attached, removable hood for $120 or so from Macy's about two years ago, and the grey one I posted earlier was $99 + tax this year. Both coats are from Guess. I'm willing to bet you could find a comparable light jacket to the third one for around $50.
All together you're looking at a pretty low budget. For all three outfits, under $500, and you could get it cheaper than that, if you look hard enough. I figure: Shoes: $120 (+$12 shoe trees) + t-shirt + $15 (definitely can go cheaper) + OCBD: $25+ Pants: $80 (chinos + jeans)+ sweater: $50 + Coats: $180 = $482, or the cost of one a shirt from one of the designers you mentioned. That's three outfits for under $500, and if like wearing t-shirts, you could easily turn that into several more outfits for another $50 (a white T, a blue T, a maroon T, maybe a polo, and so on). Easy. disagree that cheap is better. I used to think this way before I started following fashion. that 335 dollar tshirt is going to have proper stitching, and better seams, and a far better cut, and better sources for both the weave and the raw material. somebody told me this when I first started becoming I interested - "if you don't know why you're paying more, you probably don't understand textiles or fashion" at the time it sounded both elitist and ignorant, but the guy was right. there's a big difference between the products produced by a trained seamstress working in France and her untrained counterpart working in a factory in Asia. Of course this isn't to say that Asia can't produce quality products but that's another topic for another time. point is, there's always a reason why you're paying extra for something, given that it isn't some diluted line from a designer marked up for the brand name.
|
On December 27 2012 19:25 andyrau wrote:Show nested quote +On December 27 2012 19:22 SweeTLemonS[TPR] wrote:+ Show Spoiler + Yeah, the good thing about basic outfits is exactly that: they're basic.
A grey t-shirt is a grey t-shirt. Honestly, if you buy like a Zegna t-shirt for $335, you're an idiot, in my book (or filthy fucking rich), since that same grey T looks just like the one I picked up on sale for like $15 at Banana Republic, and probably isn't significantly better quality (in all honesty, there is a difference in Hanes level shirts). And, being honest again, it's kind of stupid that I paid $15 for that shirt when I probably could have gotten it even cheaper at Gap or Old Navy or something... but I was in BR.
Last year, I picked up a Merino Wool sweater from Calvin Klein for under $40. You could probably pull off that look with a cotton sweater though, which would (in the same sort of sale) be cheaper than the one I found. The white button up shirt under that can be found anywhere from $20, just find one that fits. Black jeans are black jeans, as long as they fit well.
Chinos are even cheaper at Old Navy if you're on a tight budget ($15 last time I looked). No, they probably won't last you very long, in comparison, but they'll look fine, and get you through the next 6 mos-1 year at least. If you want to wait for a good sale, Express has pretty nice dress slacks, and you can usually get them as low as $30-$40, if you catch a good sale (I think I paid $40-$45 for the grey producer pants I bought from them about two years ago, and they run sales often).
You may consider spending slightly more on the coats and shoes. No need to go to AE's, or something $300+, but cheap shoes look cheap a lot of times, and your feet are done growing (mostly) anyway, so you may as well make a bit more of an investment in them, and get a pair that can be repaired, so they'll last a few years. Something like Bostonian, or Florsheim could be in your budget ($80-$120), or maybe even Aldo. Make the $12 investment in shoe trees, too.
The coat in pic 1 can be found for around $100 at the right time. I got a wool coat, with an attached, removable hood for $120 or so from Macy's about two years ago, and the grey one I posted earlier was $99 + tax this year. Both coats are from Guess. I'm willing to bet you could find a comparable light jacket to the third one for around $50.
All together you're looking at a pretty low budget. For all three outfits, under $500, and you could get it cheaper than that, if you look hard enough. I figure: Shoes: $120 (+$12 shoe trees) + t-shirt + $15 (definitely can go cheaper) + OCBD: $25+ Pants: $80 (chinos + jeans)+ sweater: $50 + Coats: $180 = $482, or the cost of one a shirt from one of the designers you mentioned. That's three outfits for under $500, and if like wearing t-shirts, you could easily turn that into several more outfits for another $50 (a white T, a blue T, a maroon T, maybe a polo, and so on). Easy. disagree that cheap is better. I used to think this way before I started following fashion. that 335 dollar tshirt is going to have proper stitching, and better seams, and a far better cut, and better sources for both the weave and the raw material. somebody told me this when I first started becoming I interested - "if you don't know why you're paying more, you probably don't understand textiles or fashion" at the time it sounded both elitist and ignorant, but the guy was right. there's a big difference between the products produced by a trained seamstress working in France and her untrained counterpart working in a factory in Asia. Of course this isn't to say that Asia can't produce quality products but that's another topic for another time. point is, there's always a reason why you're paying extra for something, given that it isn't some diluted line from a designer marked up for the brand name.
I'm only saying that cheap is better in a certain context. Personally, regardless of how well made a t-shirt is, I think it's just a fucking t-shirt, and it'd be crazy to save money to buy a t-shirt. I guess the way I worded was very poor, though.
This may be better than this, but for literally over 10 times the price... Idk, I just can't imagine any plain white T being worth $200. I can imagine paying a lot of money for a lot of things... not a plain T.
All that said, you seem like someone who knows a lot about clothing. Putting looks together isn't all that difficult, but are there any sites, etc, that you'd recommend reading to learn more about men's fashion/clothing?
|
oh, of course. it would be silly to begrudge someone for not buying something more expensive for something so superficial. I'm simply saying that there is enough of a difference to justify the cost differential.
|
Yea a beginner website to how to wear stuff properly would be interesting. I've bought and received multiple shirts this Christmas and want to know some good mix (tie + shirts, shirts+ vest/pants) etc
|
On December 27 2012 20:10 SweeTLemonS[TPR] wrote: All that said, you seem like someone who knows a lot about clothing. Putting looks together isn't all that difficult, but are there any sites, etc, that you'd recommend reading to learn more about men's fashion/clothing? I'm pretty ignorant about it actually, I just know more than the average person. the sites you're asking for depends on which look you want to go for. - to understand fit and basic know-how, putthison is a good blog for traditional styles. - lurk styleforum/superfuture/thefashionspot/5th-dimension/londonlounge a lot. - lurk styleforum/superfuture/thefashionspot/5th-dimension/londonlounge a lot. - lurk styleforum/superfuture/thefashionspot/5th-dimension/londonlounge a lot. - lurk styleforum/superfuture/thefashionspot/5th-dimension/londonlounge a lot. - rawrdenim is great for both beginners and the initiated in denim. - selectism gives you news for designer releases but IMO it's pretty shitty in general. - i-donline and vman are two magazines that have interesting articles that are actually about designers. the rest of magazines are like simple tips anybody could google and random photoshoots that I couldn't give 2 shits about. on that thought I somewhat follow gq-style for their coverage during runway season & fashion week but everything else on gq is pretty much garbage. - the guy who runs thesartorialist gets a lot of shit because he's a retarded tryhard but some of his photos are pretty good for inspo. - lawrence who used to run sartoriallyinclined blog writes for fuckyeahmenswear now, but I was more a fan of the former. still the archives are pretty good. did I forget to mention to lurk styleforum/superfuture/thefashionspot/5th-dimension/londonlounge a lot?
|
Does anyone have any tips on how to match stripped sweaters to collared shirts underneath. I have been wearing stripped ones underneath solid sweaters so is the opposite true with stripped sweaters?
|
Guys I'm trying the most daring fashion of all.
Growing out my hair!
Fuck yeah!! We'll see how it goes
|
I actually want to get into runway fashion. Not for myself to wear, but as an interest.
But yeah lurk so hard... Same with everything i suppose. Though those other forums are nice. Sf's stuff doesn't always match mine
|
|
everytime i see jackets like this i instantly think of that dude from Grandma's Boy.
|
Lol, BluePanther... I like that jacket, personally. Depends on what else you wear with it and body type, of course: not everyone can wear that.
|
I will be posting this on Styleforum in bit, but I used TL as a template to type up my post, so I might as well share my horrendous experience with you guys here.
So I received my package from Hiras Fashion (Official Site)(SF Thread) this Friday on the 28th. I ordered a Grey Suit and a White Herringbone Shirt with a traveling fitter in late November. The total cost is $799 including shipping (Breakdown: Shipping $60, Shirt $120, Suit $619).
+ Show Spoiler +
+ Show Spoiler +
Here are my personal stats just for reference. Height: 5'8" Weight: 165lbs Chest: 41" Waist @ Navel: 34" Waist @ 2" below Navel (where pants rest): 33"
The fitting result is just short of a complete disaster. A lot of the measurements are way off, and some of the details that were requested are missing. Let's break it down.
Shirt: My initial impression when I put the shirt on was that it was WAY too big and roomy. Then I remembered that Hiras does take account of shrinkage, so I proceeded to wash the shirt with my "regular" cycle, which is cold wash and low tumble dry. Hence why it's wrinkly in the pictures above. Still, the shirt remains very wide in the chest. You can see the extreme taper in the picture.
Here are a couple pictures of my Brooks Brother made to measure shirt. The fit is close to my ideal fit; you might not be able to see it in the picture due to my phone blocking and the picture quality, but the chest is too tight as I've gained a bit of muscle in that area, but it's still a good reference to demonstrate a good overall fit as all the other measurements are still good. + Show Spoiler +
This is a picture of me in the Hiras shirt. + Show Spoiler + If I have both my arms up, I'd look like this. + Show Spoiler +
List of fit issues: - Collar is too tight. Buttoning up the collar feels like a someone has their hands around my neck. Being able to fit two fingers inside my collar is out of the picture. - Chest is too wide and roomy like mentioned. Comparing it to my Brooks Brother shirt, it is 1.5" wider on each side, 3" total. Taking account of the entire circumference, that's 6"! If my BB shirt fits perfectly with a 39" chest, this shirt would fit well on a person with a 45" chest, which is 4" too much for me. It would be perfect if the Hiras shirt was just 0.5" wider on each side than my BB shirt. + Show Spoiler + - Shirt length is too short. I requested to have this match my BB shirt when I did my fitting, but obviously it was missed. It is 3.5" shorter at the longest point of the shirt, and 2" shorter at the shortest point of the shirt. If I lift my arms, the shirt will not remained tucked in the pants. + Show Spoiler + - Shoulders are slightly too big, about 0.5" more than I like. Although it shouldn't be too big of a deal if the chest was good in the first place, as this wouldn't be as apparent. + Show Spoiler + - Collar stays are sewn in. I specifically requested to have removable stays, so this was also missed. Right now I have soft non removable collar stays sewn in, and it feels very cheap. + Show Spoiler + - Sleeve length is 0.5" too short. In the suit pictures below, you will see that there is no visible cuff at all. - Cuff width is too wide. I have small wrists and I could slide my hand through the cuff without unbuttoning. My BB shirt cuff width from center of button to the edge of opening is 7.75". The Hiras shirt is 8.25", so it's 0.5" too wide. Also, the button at the cuff slit opening is missing. This seems like a design feature from Hiras, but I don't like it. + Show Spoiler +
Suit Jacket: What the !@#$ is this? I'm not even sure how this is supposed to fit me.
List of fit issues: - Notched lapel is 4". This was supposed to be a thinner 3" lapel. Another detail missed. None of my Blazers or Sport Coats have a 4" notched lapel, nor they ever will. + Show Spoiler + - Suit jacket collar is too high. I basically have no shirt collar showing. I barely have 0.25" of collar where I yanked it up as much as possible just for a still picture. + Show Spoiler + Using this picture as a guide, mine is A or worse. B is pretty much your rule of thumb length, and anywhere between B & C is still good in my books.
- Length of the suit jacket is too effing long. I'm annoyed by this mistake the most among all the issues I'm having. It's a whooping 30.5" long, and I actually emailed Hiras beforehand to have it shortened by half an inch, which means it could have ended up as 31"! Like mentioned above, I'm 5'8" tall. How it ended up with a 30.5"/31" length is beyond me. Most people at this height have suit jackets length range from 27-29" depending on their body proportions and the style they are going for. + Show Spoiler +Notice that no cuff is showing on my left arm (mirrored). Even though my right arm is bent, you can tell there is barely anything as well if you look from the side. The discussion I had with my fitter was to have the suit jacket length match the navy blazer I have shown below, which is 28" in length. This is the longest I would ever go for. Later I decided to go for a more contemporary look and requested to shorten the jacket length by half an inch, bringing it down to 27.5". The end product is 3" too much. + Show Spoiler + - The midsection and waist area is too roomy. I'm pretty sure most can tell already just by looking at the pictures and comparing it to the fit of my navy blazer. It needs to be taken in by at least 2" on each side. + Show Spoiler + - Once again, shoulders are about 0.25"-0.5" too big. It's more apparent than the shirt due to the shoulder pads, and it's magnified by the fact that everything else is so big. Overall a minor concern compared to the rest. - Sleeve length is a tad bit long. This it how it looks even with my arms lifted up, just a little short of cuff. + Show Spoiler +The shirt I'm wearing in the picture is my BB shirt, as the Hiras shirt shows no cuff at all with this pose. I'm more bothered by the arm and sleeve width. The cut is just so boxy.
Suit Pants: Fortunately, this is the piece that I'm somewhat satisfied, preventing the entire ordeal from becoming a "complete disaster". The length is good. The waist is perfect. I asked the fitter to match my BB navy suit pants, and they almost did it right. Almost...
List of fit issues: - The thigh opening is too wide. Overall the pants isn't as tapered as I want it to be. The bottom of the opening is the same as my reference pants, but there is a 0.75" difference at the top. + Show Spoiler +The bottom of the Hiras suit pants are not hemmed in a straight line (longer at the heel), hence why they're sticking out.
Putting all the fit issues aside, the overall build quality seems decent on the suit. I didn't ask nor want a monogram on my suit but they added it (my name) anyways.
The shirt however, is a different story. The fabric feels cheap and is much thinner with a bit of see through, compared to another BB shirt I have which is also white herringbone (the one in the pictures is oxford). It's also quite wrinkly. The fitter said that these were "easy care" fabrics; I knew I shouldn't have bit the bullet as I never iron my shirts, and all the shirts I have are non-iron. Since the fitter was somewhat pushing for it, I allowed my curiosity get the best of me, as I wanted to try Hiras out and see how well they preform. The shirt itself is $120. At this price point, I could have gotten something off-the-rack with better quality fabrics and fit me semi decently from Brooks Brothers, Banana Republic, J.Crew, The Bay and the like, get it altered, and still be cheaper. Good thing I did not go for the $180 range of fabrics that the fitter was upselling me. Bad thing I did not take the cheapest $75 ones instead.
Although Hiras uses the word "bespoke" in their label, obviously this is not the case and is just made to measure. Their slogan "fitted to perfection" also falls short in my case. Considering all the issues with my suit jacket, it would be close to impossible to alter it without ruining the proportions. There is just too much work to be done, and even if it could be done, you need a very skilled tailor to recut everything and the cost is going to be very high. It would be quicker, easier, and cheaper just to have it remade. Same thing for my shirt; no tailor can make something that is too short, longer. You cannot let loose a tight collar as well.
One more thing I almost forgot to note about my shirt. There are numbers written in pen underneath my collar. Even after the first wash it's still there. I do realize you normally won't see it since it's underneath the collar, but this bugs the crap out of me. I've never seen a tailor or clothing manufacturer do this. The potential of having ink rubbed onto my ties isn't great either. + Show Spoiler +
If the products I got fits as well as what Hiras male model is wearing (a more traditional fit), I would have been content, even though I prefer a more modern, contemporary look. What I have right now is just simply unacceptable.
I'm not sure if all this is just a manufacturing error, communication error, or measurement error or a combination of everything, it really doesn't matter from a customer point of view. I'm angry and frustrated. I will be contacting Hiras directly with all these issues and see what they have to say about it. We'll see what their true customer service is like, and if they are willing to right the wrongs. If it is possible I would ask for a full refund, but I know there is a no refund policy. I refuse to spend a penny more at this point, including shipping. Having a broken product for the New Years, spending hours taking pictures and typing up this post is already too much.
|
If you paid by credit card you can probably get a refund, despite whatever Hiras' policy is. If not they should basically remake you an entirely new suit. That jacket looks ridiculous O_O. Sorry to hear about that! Did you get measured in person for this? If so that's a tragedy.
|
@Fishball, I do not know where in Canada you are (if you are even in Canada at all) but if you live anywhere near Toronto my family always gets its dress clothes from Sussman's of Arthur. Very good selection, fantastic service and top notch tailoring. The only problem is its somewhat middle of nowhere location, in Arthur.
|
|
|
|