EPTComputer Build, Upgrade & Buying Resource Thread - Page 533
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When using this resource, please read the opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. | ||
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Dingodile
4139 Posts
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Dingodile
4139 Posts
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Incognoto
France10239 Posts
my room is really far from the router at my home, so some computers have limited connectivity issues. if you can believe this at all, my MSI B85M motherboard had no such problem connecting to the router. however my new Z170M-D3H does since i'm currently using the internet for some other stuff i'm working on, i'm just not using my new system. so i'm forced to use this set up: http://i.imgur.com/NcBVCQv.jpg I'm thinking of accusing some sort of low power setting on the Z170 board, which has the network controller not running at full speed. just go figure, really | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20335 Posts
who need air from intake case-fan mostly? If not SSD&HDD, I doubt it makes sense in my case then because SSD & HDD and cables are blocking alot area. Everything needs airflow, if you put a 300w GPU in a sealed metal box and run it at full load then bad things will happen. The air will heat up from 20c to 30c to 50c which would make all system temperatures rise by at least ~30c. Usually airflow is nowhere near that bad, but you can improve it a lot on many systems. When you're increasing airflow, it's just usually better to use positive pressure rather than negative. That way you can ensure that all of the air going into the case comes through a dust filter on your intake fans. Air exists from exhaust fans and any holes in your case. - The alternative is negative pressure, which means that air comes in from everywhere that it can as well as from your intakes because the case pressure is low so it will naturally pull more air in to equalize. There are some other implications like certain GPU coolers (particularly reference style blower coolers and especially in multi-GPU configs) having issues depending on the air pressure in your case. The fan that is very powerful at high RPM (huge static pressure) sucks in a lot of air and exhausts it out of the back of the case, creating a localized area of very low pressure which can starve other components of usable air - if you have low/negative pressure overall then you are particularly vulnerable to that. The GPU cooler basically acts like an exhaust fan pulling air out of the middle of the case. | ||
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Incognoto
France10239 Posts
no success yet but perchance i'll eventually nail the one setting which will allow me to nail that problem i'm also looking at possible BIOS settings | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20335 Posts
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Dingodile
4139 Posts
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Cyro
United Kingdom20335 Posts
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Dingodile
4139 Posts
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Blazinghand
United States25560 Posts
The important things tend to be: Making sure you have more intake then exhaust, so that air goes out through seams and cracks rather than coming in. Making sure intake fans are at filters so that you have less dust coming in Making sure that you aren't creating weird circular flow of exhaust going into input (avoid this by not having an intake fan right next to exhaust). Typically cases take in air from the side, bottom, and front, and expel air out the back and top. As long as you have decent fans for intake and at least one good fan for output (lined up with your cpu cooler fan) you should be good | ||
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Incognoto
France10239 Posts
On August 24 2015 20:57 Cyro wrote: Are you using onboard wireless on the motherboards? I'd guess that their capabilities can vary a lot board to board if so. If not, what are you plugging in to connect? all wired well i spent all day on this and it's been amazingly frustrating basically i am back to my B85M motherboard which works in my room (furthest away from router, with ethernet cable going through the wall) i touched a lot of settings, both in BIOS and in device manager properties. it's a no-go really i think our router is just trash and that for some really weird reason my B85M board with its onboard network controller can work why? no idea. | ||
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mantequilla
Turkey781 Posts
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Firkraag8
Sweden1006 Posts
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Daye9111
11 Posts
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Incognoto
France10239 Posts
Don't worry about that. i've already tried all of that. I have tried 3 different latops here, 5 different motherboards. my old rig which was an HP with a Q6600 used to work here, but now it doesn't anymore. updated drivers do nothing. laptops do nothing. the only thing that does do anything is my good old B85M-P33 board. and yes, i did try the corresponding, nearly identical, MSI H81M-P33 board in my room and that doesn't work either. x) | ||
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Shield
Bulgaria4824 Posts
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Blazinghand
United States25560 Posts
On August 25 2015 09:17 darkness wrote: Is NVIDIA finally defeated? Is R9 390x better than other GPUs? Typically nvidia and amd stagger their releases a bit-- don't expect them both to release gpus in the same price range at the same time. The R9 390x is basically a slightly refreshed R9 290x with more VRAM. Like the R9 290x, it's a good card. I think in its specific price range ($430 USD), if you don't mind big power consumption, the R9 390x is a great choice. It has good performance numbers. On the other hand, if you're spending like $650 on a gpu, go for the 980 Ti, or if you're spending around $150, the new GTX 950 is probably an excellent choice. I think in general you can expect newly released GPUs like this to do well. I am not sure I'd recommend the R9 Fury or the F9 Fury X in their respective price tiers, so I wouldn't say that either Nvidia or AMD are "defeated" in any meaningful way. They both offer a variety of GPUs at varying price levels and newness levels and you should make your decision based on your individual circumstances. | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20335 Posts
On August 25 2015 06:54 Daye9111 wrote: I just bought windows 7 n a ssd. what is the easiest way to switch my os to it from my hdd? I do not care about losing anything but my updates. I am doing this because i could not get into my bios to overclock or upgrade to windows 10 and am hoping it is my O.S. not my motherboard... If you have a new OS that you have not used yet, you should just install it fresh onto the new SSD. The OS doesn't even start to load until after the bios stuff, so it shouldn't be related to that ----------- 390/390x is just rebranded 290/290x with faster RAM and a few tweaks (they have some notable driver improvements which were not given to the 290/290x until AFTER launch reviews for the 390/390x, so the reviews are biased a bit) perf at OC is roughly between 970 and 980. 970 to 980 is still about a 20% gap, while 390 to 390x at the same clock should be only like 4% gap. | ||
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yiran
3 Posts
What is your budget? Around ~$1200, but there’s no hard limit. I am happy to pay more if it is worth it, but I don't want to spend unnecessary money. What is your monitor's native resolution? 1920x1080, but I can change the monitor if needed. What games do you intend to play on this computer? What settings? Mid-end games such as Dota 2 on a relatively good setting. No need for playing AAA games on super-high quality. What do you intend to use the computer for besides gaming? Nothing intensive. Do you intend to overclock? No, unless I should. Do you intend to do SLI / Crossfire? No, unless I should. Do you need an operating system? Yes, but I can get one cheap from school. Do you need a monitor or any other peripherals and is this part of your budget? I’ve included monitor (among other components not listed in the OP) when compiling the list of components I need to buy, but they can be changed on demand. What country will you be buying your parts in? I live in downtown Manhattan, New York City. I browsed for the components mainly on newegg, but the keyboard and mouse were cheaper on amazon. I have an old SSD I will recycle and therefore will not purchase a new one. The following are the individual parts I plan to purchase: CPU+Motherboard+RAM Bundle Intel Core i5-4690 Haswell Quad-Core 3.5GHz LGA 1150 84W BX80646I54690 Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics GIGABYTE GA-Z97X-SLI LGA 1150 Intel Z97 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL10S-8GBXL http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.1670091 In case the bundle link doesn't work for whatever reason. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116989 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128714 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231488 CPU is a good I5 without overclock capabilities. Relatively high end motherboard, perhaps a bit over my requirements but it's in a good bundle. I was wondering if it is betterit opt for a cheaper motherboard to save money, as I don’t require extremely high end graphics. What about H-series or B-series? The RAM is just RAM. GPU ZOTAC ZT-70401-10P G-SYNC Support GeForce GTX 760 2GB 256-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 SLI Support Video Card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814500306 I think 2GB and GTX 750 is sufficient for normal gaming, and this is relatively high end for 2GB. This has SLI support, but I don't think I need it. So maybe I should choose a lower end one? PSU CORSAIR CX series CX500M 500W ATX12V v2.3 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC CP-9020059-NA Power Supply http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139050 Good discount and I think 500W is enough. I'm quite unsure on this one as OP said PSUs are hard to choose. Monitor Acer S241HLbmid Black 24" 5ms HDMI Widescreen LED Backlight LCD Monitor 250 cd/m2 ACM 100,000,000:1 (1,000:1) Built-in Speakers http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009513 It's big and has built in speakers which makes it easier/cleaner. Case Rosewill BLACKHAWK Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Five (5) Preinstalled Fans, Side Window Panel, Top HDD Dock http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147107 It's relatively cheap, looks fine, and has five pre-installed fans for cooling (does this even matter? I heard multi fan case is good). Let me know if there's going to be any issues with fitting or with anything else. HDD TOSHIBA PH3300U-1I72 3TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive Retail Kit (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822149396) SATA 6.0 with good size and relatively cheap. Cable Nippon Labs Premium 18" (1.5 ft.) SATA II Cable with locking latch for SATA I and SATA II Hard Drive 1.5ft Model SATA-L0.5-R 1.5 feet http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812816027 I'm planning to purchase 3 (SSD, HDD, CD), is that enough? CD Drive LITE-ON DVD Burner 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 8X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 24X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM SATA Model iHAS124-14 - OEM http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106393 Standard CD Drive. Keyboard Razer BlackWidow Expert Mechanical Gaming Keyboard http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IG3GP84?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER Generic mechanical keyboard. Mouse Razer DeathAdder Chroma - Multi-Color Ergonomic Gaming Mouse http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYTSDU4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER Has extra mouse buttons for use. Please let me know what you guys think and any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for any help I get! | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20335 Posts
CPU is a good I5 without overclock capabilities. Relatively high end motherboard, perhaps a bit over my requirements but it's in a good bundle. I was wondering if it is betterit opt for a cheaper motherboard to save money, as I don’t require extremely high end graphics. What about H-series or B-series? If you're getting overclocking chipset motherboard (z) you should get a current gen i5 (6600k) with z107(z170? whatever, it has 3 digits) and if you're saving money, you should get a h or b series board if you're getting Haswell (4000 series CPU) GPU ZOTAC ZT-70401-10P G-SYNC Support GeForce GTX 760 2GB 256-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 SLI Support Video Card I think 2GB and GTX 750 is sufficient for normal gaming, and this is relatively high end for 2GB. This has SLI support, but I don't think I need it. So maybe I should choose a lower end one? You can get a 950 for that price. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127905&cm_re=950-_-14-127-905-_-Product (i just searched 950 on newegg since pcpartpicker isn't updated yet). If going lower budget, a 750 could be alright. The names are kinda messed up - 760 is older tech, 750/750ti is an early revision of the current architecture used, 950+ is latest revision of newest architecture and the cards are a bit newer (more likely to support features like fans turning off entirely when not needed, etc) ------- For the storage drives etc, you need sata III (6gb/s) cables, not sata II (3gb/s). They sometimes but not always come with the drives themselves. ----- The case looks alright, just don't neccesarily expect the stock fans to be particularly good when it comes to performance, noise and/or longevity. ---- For PSU, a setup like a stock i5 and a 950 would use very little power - well under 200w, probably under 150w with a gaming workload. You usually need to go to about 350-450 watts to get a good PSU, though. That one is alright but not amazing and $35 AR is a good price (if you actually plan on getting the rebate money) ---- Keyboard is not so good, razer is now using cheaper off-brand mechanical keyboard switches. There is a lot of marketing and "gaming" brand BS but they're objectively lower quality than other mech boards. The mouse is alright (especially great compared to a random office mouse) but you can also get better - that one has no onboard memory so you have to either use default settings or you have to have the mouse driver open 24/7 on any computer that you use, and having the driver open messes up the tracking of the mouse in some minor ways. We have a thread for mice - http://www.teamliquid.net/forum/tech-support/174311-the-ultimate-mouse-thread - though the OP is out of date. | ||
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