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Mechanical Keyboard Guide - Page 321

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Treetop
Profile Blog Joined June 2010
United States140 Posts
September 10 2013 04:11 GMT
#6401
All right. I suppose I better just go ahead and post here as reading through about 20 pages of the thread is making my eyes cross.

I'm looking for a brown switch board with back lighting and built solid enough to beat a guy to death with it and then put it back on my desk and start laddering again.

I nearly had my mind made up on a Ducky Shine 3 or one of their similar 40 options. I had heard a lot of good things but then I made the stupid mistake of reading people's opinions online and now I'm getting conflicting reports on them. Then I am reading glowing reports about Filco boards. However, I don't think that seems likely as my girlfriend would look down on me having to take a mortgage out on the house to buy a keyboard. So, someone please just tell me what a good brown board with the things I need. I'm tired of thinking and my head hurts.

Thanks ahead of time.
DERPDERP
Profile Joined October 2010
Kyrgyzstan189 Posts
Last Edited: 2013-09-10 07:32:28
September 10 2013 07:20 GMT
#6402
I don't think there's any filcos with backlighting, a cheaper quality option would be QFR. Ducky is a good choice if you need backlighting, also you should take a look at WASDkeyboards' code. Then there's Decks, too however their availability is a questionmark, haven't seen them much around and they're costly.

https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/search.php?switch_id=2&size=ALL&keyword=&backlit=on&in_stock=on there's a good list of mx browns with backlighting
8)
ShaPeLesS
Profile Joined September 2010
Bulgaria87 Posts
September 12 2013 11:56 GMT
#6403
Hello everyone,

I have decided to get a mechanical keyboard with Cherry MX Brown switches. The problem I'm facing is deciding exactly which one to get. I have narrowed it down to a couple of choices and would be grateful if you can give feedback on the keyboards.

1. The Quick Fire Pro - I like it because it is full-sized. Would have preferred full black-light but it is not a problem. I have read that the build quality isn't so good. Is that true?

2. The Quick Fire TK - full black-light and compact. I've read good things about the build quality. However, I have one concern - while on the Pro you can change the polling rate (8ms, 4ms, 2ms, 1ms) I do not see such an option on the TK. I think 1000Hz response time is overkill and just takes up CPU cycles and would prefer to be able to lower it to 250Hz.

3. Zowie Celeritas - full-sized and build quality looks good. Polling rate is 0.2 seconds (from their website) which is 200hz. Nothing more to add about this keyboard.

What do you think about these keyboards and which one would you recommend?
"Nothing is true, everything is permitted"
Gamegene
Profile Blog Joined June 2011
United States8308 Posts
September 12 2013 12:17 GMT
#6404
On September 12 2013 20:56 ShaPeLesS wrote:
Hello everyone,

I have decided to get a mechanical keyboard with Cherry MX Brown switches. The problem I'm facing is deciding exactly which one to get. I have narrowed it down to a couple of choices and would be grateful if you can give feedback on the keyboards.

1. The Quick Fire Pro - I like it because it is full-sized. Would have preferred full black-light but it is not a problem. I have read that the build quality isn't so good. Is that true?

2. The Quick Fire TK - full black-light and compact. I've read good things about the build quality. However, I have one concern - while on the Pro you can change the polling rate (8ms, 4ms, 2ms, 1ms) I do not see such an option on the TK. I think 1000Hz response time is overkill and just takes up CPU cycles and would prefer to be able to lower it to 250Hz.

3. Zowie Celeritas - full-sized and build quality looks good. Polling rate is 0.2 seconds (from their website) which is 200hz. Nothing more to add about this keyboard.

What do you think about these keyboards and which one would you recommend?


i've owned a Quickfire Pro for two years playing starcraft hardcore on it and it's still performing admirably. i would have recommended it maybe 6 months ago, but with the Quickfire XT and the Quickfire Ultimate, these are definitely superior full sized boards than the QFP although it's definitely a lot cheaper.

http://www.cmstorm.com/en/products/keyboards/QuickFireXT/
http://www.cmstorm.com/en/products/keyboards/QuickFireUltimate/

(Quickfire Ultimate is identical to the Quickfire Pro, but it's fully backlit)

Zowie Celeritas is known to have some issues with the spacebar, and the giant L shaped enter key can make it slightly difficult to find custom keycaps for it.

If you think you'd really like having full backlit, definitely buy the Ultimate over the TK (I dislike the irregular keyformat) and the Pro. Quickfire XT's build quality far superior to all 3 though.
Throw on your favorite jacket and you're good to roll. Stroll through the trees and let your miseries go.
ShaPeLesS
Profile Joined September 2010
Bulgaria87 Posts
September 12 2013 12:23 GMT
#6405
+ Show Spoiler +
On September 12 2013 21:17 Gamegene wrote:
Show nested quote +
On September 12 2013 20:56 ShaPeLesS wrote:
Hello everyone,

I have decided to get a mechanical keyboard with Cherry MX Brown switches. The problem I'm facing is deciding exactly which one to get. I have narrowed it down to a couple of choices and would be grateful if you can give feedback on the keyboards.

1. The Quick Fire Pro - I like it because it is full-sized. Would have preferred full black-light but it is not a problem. I have read that the build quality isn't so good. Is that true?

2. The Quick Fire TK - full black-light and compact. I've read good things about the build quality. However, I have one concern - while on the Pro you can change the polling rate (8ms, 4ms, 2ms, 1ms) I do not see such an option on the TK. I think 1000Hz response time is overkill and just takes up CPU cycles and would prefer to be able to lower it to 250Hz.

3. Zowie Celeritas - full-sized and build quality looks good. Polling rate is 0.2 seconds (from their website) which is 200hz. Nothing more to add about this keyboard.

What do you think about these keyboards and which one would you recommend?


i've owned a Quickfire Pro for two years playing starcraft hardcore on it and it's still performing admirably. i would have recommended it maybe 6 months ago, but with the Quickfire XT and the Quickfire Ultimate, these are definitely superior full sized boards than the QFP although it's definitely a lot cheaper.

http://www.cmstorm.com/en/products/keyboards/QuickFireXT/
http://www.cmstorm.com/en/products/keyboards/QuickFireUltimate/

(Quickfire Ultimate is identical to the Quickfire Pro, but it's fully backlit)

Zowie Celeritas is known to have some issues with the spacebar, and the giant L shaped enter key can make it slightly difficult to find custom keycaps for it.

If you think you'd really like having full backlit, definitely buy the Ultimate over the TK (I dislike the irregular keyformat) and the Pro. Quickfire XT's build quality far superior to all 3 though.


Thank you for the reply! Ideally, I would get a QuickFire XT or Ultimate, however they are not yet available in my country and I would prefer buying the keyboard locally.

For the Celeritas - I didn't know about the spacebar issue. As for the L shaped enter key - I'm currently using such a keyboard and it is not a problem
"Nothing is true, everything is permitted"
Dacendoran
Profile Blog Joined June 2009
United States825 Posts
September 13 2013 17:13 GMT
#6406
I like to use my keyboard on my lap (ala sheth style) and my quickfire rapid has been eating up the removable cords for it, does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do to remedy it?
[image loading]

If it helps this is what the bottom looks like (I was thinking about maybe filling it with ugoo?)

Any suggestions would be great.
Zealos
Profile Blog Joined November 2011
United Kingdom3576 Posts
September 13 2013 17:56 GMT
#6407
On September 08 2013 00:08 DERPDERP wrote:
Show nested quote +
On September 07 2013 22:49 Zealos wrote:
How do you remove a space bar without fucking up those plasticky thingys?


You can't fuck up them, worst case scenario they come off from the spacebar, they're not glued, at least they shouldn't be.

I usually pull it so the switch (middle) has come off then move it sideways while pulling on the wire to the other way.

Every time I do it one of the plastic things snaps so that the metal can't slot underneath it anymore?
On the internet if you disagree with or dislike something you're angry and taking it too seriously. == Join TLMafia !
Ichabod
Profile Joined May 2010
United States1659 Posts
Last Edited: 2013-09-13 19:15:34
September 13 2013 19:15 GMT
#6408
On September 14 2013 02:13 Dacendoran wrote:
I like to use my keyboard on my lap (ala sheth style) and my quickfire rapid has been eating up the removable cords for it, does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do to remedy it?

If it helps this is what the bottom looks like (I was thinking about maybe filling it with ugoo?)

Any suggestions would be great.

If you could find a way to hold the cord tightly in channel, so the point of stress is on the portion of the cord in the channel, rather than the plug/end of cord itself, the cord might last longer.

I'm not familiar with ugoo, but any sort of liquid adhesive may be a bit risky, should the goo-covered cord fail. The added goo may complicate cord removal/replacement.

I've been reinforcing some of my cords with heat-shrink tubing to prevent stress, it seems to work fairly well.
DERPDERP
Profile Joined October 2010
Kyrgyzstan189 Posts
September 13 2013 19:26 GMT
#6409
On September 14 2013 02:56 Zealos wrote:
Show nested quote +
On September 08 2013 00:08 DERPDERP wrote:
On September 07 2013 22:49 Zealos wrote:
How do you remove a space bar without fucking up those plasticky thingys?


You can't fuck up them, worst case scenario they come off from the spacebar, they're not glued, at least they shouldn't be.

I usually pull it so the switch (middle) has come off then move it sideways while pulling on the wire to the other way.

Every time I do it one of the plastic things snaps so that the metal can't slot underneath it anymore?


I dunno what you mean by snapping, you can put a piece of thin plastic bag over the stem and push it in the slot so it doesn't fall off the spacebar.
8)
Zealos
Profile Blog Joined November 2011
United Kingdom3576 Posts
September 13 2013 21:06 GMT
#6410
Here: http://www.daskeyboard.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/stabilizerbar.png
The plastic "Loops" that loop round the metal stabilizers. I can't see how you can pull of the spacebar without one of the 2 of them snapping?
On the internet if you disagree with or dislike something you're angry and taking it too seriously. == Join TLMafia !
Zealos
Profile Blog Joined November 2011
United Kingdom3576 Posts
September 13 2013 21:06 GMT
#6411
To clarify, I tried to move it to the side to unhook it, but I couldn't get it off :/
On the internet if you disagree with or dislike something you're angry and taking it too seriously. == Join TLMafia !
DERPDERP
Profile Joined October 2010
Kyrgyzstan189 Posts
Last Edited: 2013-09-13 22:56:14
September 13 2013 22:54 GMT
#6412
On September 14 2013 06:06 Zealos wrote:
To clarify, I tried to move it to the side to unhook it, but I couldn't get it off :/


It should come off pretty easy. Just hold the hookpart of the wire between your left index finger and thumb and pull the spacebar to left with your right hand, it may require a fair bit of force.
8)
Dacendoran
Profile Blog Joined June 2009
United States825 Posts
September 14 2013 02:14 GMT
#6413
On September 14 2013 04:15 Ichabod wrote:
Show nested quote +
On September 14 2013 02:13 Dacendoran wrote:
I like to use my keyboard on my lap (ala sheth style) and my quickfire rapid has been eating up the removable cords for it, does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do to remedy it?

If it helps this is what the bottom looks like (I was thinking about maybe filling it with ugoo?)

Any suggestions would be great.

If you could find a way to hold the cord tightly in channel, so the point of stress is on the portion of the cord in the channel, rather than the plug/end of cord itself, the cord might last longer.

I'm not familiar with ugoo, but any sort of liquid adhesive may be a bit risky, should the goo-covered cord fail. The added goo may complicate cord removal/replacement.

I've been reinforcing some of my cords with heat-shrink tubing to prevent stress, it seems to work fairly well.


all of the stress is on the terminal and not the cord and that's the problem oogoo is this (http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-Your-Own-Sugru-Substitute/)

I figured maybe it would keep the cord inside of the hole and make the stress point where the cord comes out of the silicone rather than directly on the terminal
Ropid
Profile Joined March 2009
Germany3557 Posts
September 14 2013 06:43 GMT
#6414
On September 14 2013 11:14 Dacendoran wrote:
Show nested quote +
On September 14 2013 04:15 Ichabod wrote:
On September 14 2013 02:13 Dacendoran wrote:
I like to use my keyboard on my lap (ala sheth style) and my quickfire rapid has been eating up the removable cords for it, does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do to remedy it?

If it helps this is what the bottom looks like (I was thinking about maybe filling it with ugoo?)

Any suggestions would be great.

If you could find a way to hold the cord tightly in channel, so the point of stress is on the portion of the cord in the channel, rather than the plug/end of cord itself, the cord might last longer.

I'm not familiar with ugoo, but any sort of liquid adhesive may be a bit risky, should the goo-covered cord fail. The added goo may complicate cord removal/replacement.

I've been reinforcing some of my cords with heat-shrink tubing to prevent stress, it seems to work fairly well.


all of the stress is on the terminal and not the cord and that's the problem oogoo is this (http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-Your-Own-Sugru-Substitute/)

I figured maybe it would keep the cord inside of the hole and make the stress point where the cord comes out of the silicone rather than directly on the terminal

I would glue the cable inside one of the three channels so that any pulling on the cable does not reach the connector at all.

I don't know what glue would be strong enough to hold up over time while still being possible to remove without making the keyboard ugly. I guess I'd try a hot glue gun. If that doesn't hold, I don't know... epoxy would hold but you might need a dremel to remove it.
"My goal is to replace my soul with coffee and become immortal."
Amui
Profile Blog Joined August 2010
Canada10567 Posts
September 14 2013 07:19 GMT
#6415
On September 14 2013 06:06 Zealos wrote:
To clarify, I tried to move it to the side to unhook it, but I couldn't get it off :/


You should be able to pull them off easily if you just angle the spacebar and pull.
Porouscloud - NA LoL
thousand
Profile Joined August 2011
Poland41 Posts
September 14 2013 12:33 GMT
#6416
So I was stupid enough to spill some coffee on my Razer Black Widow tournament edition couple of months ago. The keyboard stopped working for a day and after drying out it came back to life. Unfortunately, some keys are still working weirdly, in particular I and U. Sometimes they are unpressable (the button doesn't go down or goes up very slowly) and just do not respond, sometimes they work just fine. Is there any way of fixing it or should I start looking for a new keyboard? Thanks in advance.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
ThomasjServo
Profile Blog Joined May 2012
15244 Posts
September 14 2013 13:15 GMT
#6417
On September 14 2013 21:33 thousand wrote:
So I was stupid enough to spill some coffee on my Razer Black Widow tournament edition couple of months ago. The keyboard stopped working for a day and after drying out it came back to life. Unfortunately, some keys are still working weirdly, in particular I and U. Sometimes they are unpressable (the button doesn't go down or goes up very slowly) and just do not respond, sometimes they work just fine. Is there any way of fixing it or should I start looking for a new keyboard? Thanks in advance.

The real mistake wasn't unplugging it straight away, you could try replacing those switches individually, but most people (myself included) arent keen to do that. You may want to start shopping as your Black Widow doesn't seem to be keysus.
Sovano
Profile Joined November 2011
United States1503 Posts
Last Edited: 2013-09-14 14:27:09
September 14 2013 14:24 GMT
#6418
I would strongly suggest to either RMA the keyboard (if warranty is still available) or purchase a new keyboard. I agree with Thomas that it is viable to individually replace those broken switches, but you need to research and even practice the process of soldering and desoldering. The costs of buying those switches individually might not be worth the time and price either (depending on who you buy it from) as opposed to getting a higher quality keyboard than the BWU TE.
Ropid
Profile Joined March 2009
Germany3557 Posts
September 14 2013 14:32 GMT
#6419
Maybe the switch can be washed out with some sort of alcohol. If the switch fires correctly again but feels weird, you can then lubricate it with whatever is recommended for that in the mech keyboard sub-reddit.
"My goal is to replace my soul with coffee and become immortal."
Intact
Profile Joined September 2010
Sweden634 Posts
September 15 2013 04:21 GMT
#6420
Very vague stuff, but I'll give it a shot. I moved from europe to the US recently. Couldn't bring my desktop with me so I only have my laptop but I still brought my Blackwidow (original model).

Everything worked perfectly like expected for a couple of days but then all of the sudden from one day to another my mouse (steelseries kana) and blackwidow started randomly disconnecting. I would hear the usb disconnected sound and then all lights go off and nothing works. They would start working again if i switched them to different usb ports. This happened for a day or so and then suddenly my blackwidow just stopped working.

When I plugged it in it would say usb device not recognized. Then another day later and now nothing happens at all when I plug it in, It's like it's completely dead. My mouse no longer disconnects. My first thought was that the different voltage might have something to do with it but the laptop works perfectly so I dont know. Any ideas what might have caused it ?
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